had been absent the natives had never approached his camp. Such singular good fortune was more than I could reasonably have expected, and my satisfaction was complete when I again met Stapylton and saw the party once more united. The little native Ballandella’s leg was fast uniting, the mother having been unremitting in her care of the child. Good grass had also been found so that the cattle had become quite fresh and indeed looked well.
SURROUNDED BY INUNDATIONS. CROSS TO IT IN A BARK CANOE MADE BY TOMMY CAME-LAST.
I was ferried over Stapylton’s creek in a bark canoe by Tommy Came-last who also, by the same simple means, soon conveyed every article of equipment and the rest of the party across to the depot camp.
We had now got through the most unpromising part of our task. We had penetrated the Australian Hesperides, although the golden fruit was still to be sought. We had accomplished so much however, with only half the party, that nothing seemed impossible with the whole; and to trace the Murray upwards and explore the unknown regions beyond it was a charming undertaking when we had at length bid adieu forever to the dreary banks of the Darling.
SEARCH FOR THE JUNCTION OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY.
The first object of research was the actual junction of the Murrumbidgee with the Murray. I knew that the creek on which I had fixed the depot camp came from the former and entered the latter; and that our depot thus stood on a tract surrounded by water, being between the creek and the main stream. We were already in fact on a branch-island, immediately adjacent to the junction we were in search of and, as I intended to across the Murray either at or below that point, I determined to make an excursion in search of it next morning.
June 11.
Riding southward I reached a bend of the river about two miles from our camp. While tracing the stream upwards from that point we saw some natives running away from their fires. One of them however held up a green branch in each hand and, though as he ran he answered Piper, and a gin had left a heavy bag near us, yet he could not be prevailed on to stop. When Piper took the bag to the tribe he was obliged to follow them nearly a mile, when a number at length stood still together, but at a considerable distance from us, and kept incessantly calling for tomahawks. From the number of huts along the riverbank it was obvious that the inhabitants were numerous, and I was therefore the more surprised that our depot could have continued so long near them without their discovering it. After following the river upwards of eight miles without meeting with the Murrumbidgee I came to a place where it seemed to have formerly had a different channel, and to have left a basin where the banks of the stream were of easy access, the breadth being only 110 yards. This spot was so favourable for effecting a passage that I determined on moving the party to it at once; and to entrust to Mr. Stapylton the further search for the junction of the Murrumbidgee, which could not be far from it.
MR. STAPYLTON REACHES THE JUNCTION OF THE RIVERS.
June 12.
While I conducted the party to the point at which I intended to cross Mr. Stapylton returned along our old route to where we first traversed the now flooded creek and, by tracing it downward to the Murrumbidgee, and that river to the Murray, he ascertained the junction to be little more than a mile from the encampment which I had taken up with the intention of crossing the Murray. Meanwhile no time had been lost there in pitching the boats and sinking them in the adjacent basin of still water that the planks might swell and unite.
June 13.
I crossed early in the morning and found the opposite bank very favourable for the cattle to get out; this being a object of much importance.
RECEPTION BY THE NATIVES OF THE LEFT BANK.
I was met as favourably by the natives on this first passage of the Murray as I had been on our first approach to the Murrumbidgee. A small tribe came forward and laid a number of newly-made nets at my feet. I declined accepting anything however save a beautifully wrought bag, telling the owner through Piper that when the party should have passed to that side I would give him a tomahawk in return for it.
PASSAGE OF THE MURRAY.
As soon as the day had become rather warm we endeavoured to swim the bullocks across by driving them into the water at the mouth of the basin where the river seemed most accessible. But the bank was soft and muddy, and the animals, when driven into the water, got upon an island in a shallow part, whence they could not be dislodged, much less compelled to swim from it to the opposite shore. Not a little time was thus lost, while only a few could be drawn over by ropes attached to the boats; and by which process one was accidentally drowned. This was owing to the injudicious conduct of one of the men (Webb) who gave the animal rope instead of holding its head close aboard, so as to keep the mouth at least above water. The drivers then represented that the rest of the bullocks had been too long in the water to be able to cross before the next day but, having first tried their plan, I now determined to try my own; and I directed them to take the cattle to the steepest portion of the bank, overhanging the narrow part of the river, and just opposite to the few bullocks which had already gained the opposite shore. Notwithstanding the weakness of the animals this measure succeeded for, on driving them down the steep bank so that they fell into the water, the whole at once turned their heads to the opposite shore and reached it in safety. We next swam the horses over by dragging each separately at the stern of a boat, taking care to hold the head above water. Thus by sunset everything except one or two carts and the boat-carriage had been safely got across.
The natives beyond the Murray were differently-behaved people from those of the Darling for, although one group sat beside that portion of our party which was still on the right bank, another, at a point of the opposite shore to the eastward of our new camp, and a third near my tent in the neck of a peninsula on which I found we had landed, not one of them caused us any anxiety or trouble. It was to the last party that I owed the tomahawk, and I went up with it as they sat at their fires. They were in number about twenty and unaccompanied by any gins. The man who had given me the bag seemed to express gratitude for the tomahawk by offering me another net, also one which he wore on his head; and he presented to me his son. He saw the two native boys who then accompanied me as interpreters dressed well and apparently happy, and I had no doubt the poor man was willing to place his own son under my care. I endeavoured to explain that we had no more tomahawks, that we had given none to any other tribe upon the Murray, and that our men were apt to be very saucy with their guns if too much troubled. Experience had taught me the necessity for thus perpetually impressing on the minds, even of the most civil of these savages that, although inoffensive, we were strong; an idea not easily conceived by them. They however came forward and sat down near us until very heavy rain, which fell in the night, obliged them to seek their huts.
HEAVY RAINS SET IN.
June 14.
The morning dawned under the most steady fall of rain that I had seen during the journey; and this happened just after new moon, a time when I had hoped for a favourable change in the weather. Everything was got across the river this day, and we were prepared for the survey of a new region. I was occupied with the maps of the country which we had just left sufficiently to be regardless of the rain, even if it had continued to fall many days; and very thankful was I that we had got thus far without having been impeded by the weather.
June 15.
The rain ceased in the morning and the barometer had risen so much that no more was to be apprehended then; yet the blacksmith had still some work to do to the boat-carriage, and we were therefore obliged to halt another day.
ROW UP THE MURRAY TO THE JUNCTION OF THE MURRUMBIDGEE.
In the afternoon I proceeded in one of the boats up the river to the junction of the Murrumbidgee; and I ascertained that there was a fresh in that river also. It was certainly narrower at the mouth than at Weyeba; and here indeed some fallen trees almost crossed the stream. There was a hollow or break in the bank of the Murray, about 100 yards lower down, which seemed to have been once an outlet of the Murrumbidgee. The opening formed a deep section through a stratum of ferruginous sandstone, and was fully equal to the present breadth of the tributary river. On pulling higher up, the Murray seemed rather smaller above this junction, although still a splendid stream. The natives on this side told Piper that the Darling tribe from the other had danced a corrobory with them about six weeks before, and promised to return in one moon. They also inquired whether Piper had seen any of that tribe as they were waiting for us whitefellows, to which Piper answered that he had NOT. I blamed him for this reply, and asked why he did not say that we had been obliged to fire upon and kill some of them: but he said he could not tell them that, because they would hate him so.
COMMENCE THE JOURNEY UPWARDS, ALONG THE LEFT BANK.
June 16.
We left our encampment and commenced our travels up the left bank of the Murray over ground which seemed much better than any we had seen on the right bank. We crossed grassy plains bounded by sandhills on which grew pines (callitris); and open forests of goborro (or box-tree) prevailed very generally nearer the river. Where this tree grew we found the ground still good for travelling upon, notwithstanding the heavy rain, in consequence apparently of the argillaceous character of the soil; for in the plains of red earth, which before the last fall of rain we had found the best, the horses now sank above their fetlocks and the carts could scarcely be dragged along. In the course of the day we passed several broad lagoons in channels which probably were ana-branches of the river in high floods. On the largest plain crossed by the party four emus appeared, and one of them was killed after a fine chase by the dogs. The river appeared to come from the east-south-east but the course was very tortuous, and we encamped at a reach where it seemed to come from the south.
STRANGE ANIMAL.
The most remarkable incident of this days’ journey was the discovery of an animal of which I had seen only the head among the remains found in the caves at Wellington Valley. This animal was of the size of a young wild rabbit and of nearly the same colour, but had a broad head terminating in a long very slender snout, like the narrow neck of a wide bottle; and it had no tail. The forefeet were singularly formed, resembling those of a hog; and the marsupial opening was downwards, and not upwards as in the kangaroo and others of that class of animals. This quadruped was discovered on the ground by our native guides, but when pursued it took refuge in a hollow tree from which they extracted it alive, all of them declaring that they had never before seen an animal of that kind.*
(*Footnote. The original has been deposited in the Sydney Museum but, having shown my friend Mr. Ogilby a drawing of it, he has noticed the discovery in the Proceedings of the Zoological Society for 1838 describing the animal as “belonging to a new genus closely allied to Perameles, but differing in the form of the forefeet, which have only two middle toes resembling those of a hog, and in the total absence of tail. This genus has been named by Mr. Ogilby Chaeropus ecaudatus.)
June 17.
The cattle were not brought up until ten o’clock, an unusual circumstance, and one which curtailed the day’s journey. The course of the river compelled us to travel southward, and even to the westward of south; but we found better ground by keeping on the open forest-land of box or goborro, which in general occupied a very extensive space between the river and the bergs of soft red sandhills on which grew the callitris.
SALSOLAE ON THE PLAINS.
The plains covered with salsolae which, as I have just remarked, before the rain, were considered to afford the best surface for travelling on, had now become so soft as to be almost impassable, at least by our wheels, and I this day avoided them as much as I could. The margin where the box or goborro grew was in many parts hollowed into lagoons or ana-branches of the river, so that it was desirable to shape our line of route as closely by the base of these bergs or sandhills as possible.
PICTURESQUE SCENERY ON THE RIVER.
On crossing the point of one of them we came upon a most romantic-looking scene where a flood branch had left a serpentine piece of water, enclosing two wooded islands of rather picturesque character, the whole being overhung by the steep and bushy slope of the hill. The scenery of some lakes thus formed was very fine, especially when their rich verdure and lofty trees were contrasted with the scrub which covered the sandhills nearest the river, where a variety of shrubs such as we had not previously seen formed a curious foreground. Amongst them was a creeper with very large pods, two of which were brought to me last year, while on the Darling, by one of the men, who could not afterwards find the tree again, or say what it was like. We also found one Eucarya murrayana with young unripe fruit. (See Plate 28 which represents the general character of the scenery on the Murray.)
KANGAROOS NUMEROUS.
The country abounded with kangaroos. On ascending some grassy ridges I perceived a verdant plain which extended as far as I could see to the westward. It was bounded on the south, not by scrub, but by a forest of large trees; and the horizon beyond presented something like an outline of hills, a refreshing sight, accustomed as we had been for several months to a horizon as level as that of the ocean. After travelling about three miles we were obliged to turn westward by a creek or ana-branch of the river, having on its banks large yarra trees resembling those in the main stream. It prevented us from approaching the Murray during the rest of the day, and we finally encamped on its margin having found there most excellent grass.
June 18.
Continuing along the firm ground between the bergs and this creek we pursued a course which for some miles bore to the westward of south. We passed through forests of the box or goborro, under which grew a luxuriant crop of grass and two of these flats (on which we saw yarra trees also) stretched away to the westward, breaking the elsewhere unvaried wilderness of sandhills and scrub. On crossing one of these forest flats we heard the sound of the natives’ hatchet on some hollow trees before us; and Piper as usual hastened forward to communicate with them, but in vain for, as soon as they saw him, they ran like kangaroos, leaving the fortunate opossum which they had been seeking still alive in his hole in the tree. At length we got clear of the creek on reaching a bend of the river not far beyond the spot where we had seen the natives.
COUNTRY IMPROVES AS WE ASCEND THE RIVER.
The Murray was flowing rapidly in a narrower channel and within two or three feet of the top of the banks. The country appeared on the whole superior to any that we had seen on the other side of this river. The grassy flats backed by hills covered with callitris seemed very eligible for cattle runs, the chief objection to them being only that the banks of the river were so steep and yielding that the water was in general inaccessible. The breadth seldom exceeded 60 or 70 yards; and I suspected that we might be already above the junction of some stream on the right bank, especially as the course came now so much from the southward.
A REGION OF REEDS.
On crossing the extremity of a sandhill, about two miles from the spot where we afterwards encamped, I perceived that reeds covered a vast region before us. They grew everywhere, even under the trees, and extended back from the channel of the river as far as I could see and, no alternative presenting itself, we endeavoured to face them. The lofty ash-hills of the natives, used chiefly for roasting the balyan (or bulrush) a root found only in such places, again appeared in great numbers. We soon came upon a lagoon about a mile in circumference and surrounded on all sides by high reeds. One or two smooth grassy hills arose among them, but the ground, even where they grew, was as firm and good for travelling upon as any that we had recently crossed. They were no impediment to a man or bullock in motion, but grew to the height of about seven or eight feet.
THE WATER INACCESSIBLE FROM SOFT AND MUDDY BANKS.
Grass was also to be found among them and I was willing to encamp there; but the difficulty was in finding a spot where the cattle could approach the water. The flood ran high in the deep and rapid river; yet the margin was covered with high reeds and, although I ultimately encamped near a small lagoon within the reeds, the cattle would not venture to drink at it, instinctively shrinking back from the muddy margin. In the course of the evening one animal fell into the river and was extricated with great difficulty and after much digging in the bank. One remarkable difference between this river and the Murrumbidgee was that, in the latter, even where reeds most prevailed, a certain space near the bank remained tolerably clear: whereas on this river the reeds grew most thickly and closely on its immediate banks, thus presenting a much less imposing appearance than the Murrumbidgee, with its firmer banks crowned with lofty forests of yarra. Each Australian river seems to have some peculiar character, sustained with remarkable uniformity throughout the whole course.
HABITS OF OUR NATIVE GUIDES.
June 19.
Piper, although so far from his country, could still point directly to it, but he had grown so homesick that he begged Burnett not to mention Bathurst. To return except with us was quite out of the question, and as we still receded he dragged, as the phrase is, a lengthening chain. He studied my visage however and could read my thoughts too well to doubt that I too hoped to return. The whole management of the chase now devolved on him and the two boys, his humble servants; and this native party usually explored the woods with our dogs for several miles in front of the column. The females kept nearer the party, and often gave us notice of obstacles in time to enable me to avoid them. My question on such occasions was Dago nyollong yannagary? (Which way shall we go? ) to which one would reply, pointing in the proper direction, Yalyai nyollong-yannar! (Go that way.) Depending chiefly on the survey for my longitude, my attention was for the most part confined to the preservation of certain bearings in our course by frequent observations of the pocket compass; but in conducting carts where no roads existed, propitiating savage natives, taking bearings and angles, observing rocks, soil and productions, so much care and anxious attention was necessary that I believe I was indebted to the sympathy even of my aboriginal friends for the zealous aid they at all times afforded.
Notwithstanding the obvious necessity for closely watching the cattle, they had been suffered to ramble nine miles up the river during the night; and were not brought back to the camp until noon. This unusual and untoward circumstance was the more surprising as the whole country along the riverbank was covered with good grass. Whether they had instinctively set off towards the upper country, where most of them were bred; or that want of water after a hard day’s work had occasioned such restlessness, it was difficult to say; but they wandered even beyond the camp that we reached this day in a journey commenced however only at half-past 12.
NATIVES VERY SHY.
The natives peeped over the reeds at us from a considerable distance; and some of those whom Piper saw when in search of the men with the cattle, immediately jumped into the river, carrying their spears and boomerangs with them. We had not proceeded above a mile and a half when I perceived among the reeds close to the berg on which we were travelling a small, deep and still branch of the river, apparently connected with numerous others, in all of which the water was quite still, although it had the same muddy colour as that flowing in the river, and they seemed to be equally deep. These still channels wound in all directions among the reeds. Further on the water was not even confined to such canals, large spaces between them being inundated, and lofty gum (or yarra) trees stood even in the water. Light appeared at length through the wood before us, which soon terminated on a sea of reeds bounded only by the horizon. On ascending some sandhills confining this basin of reeds on our side, I observed a low grassy ridge with pines upon it, and forming a limit to the reedy basin, except in a part of the horizon which bore 14 degrees South of East. A broad sheet of water (probably only an inundation occasioned by the late rain) filled the centre of the reedy space. About six miles from our last camp we came upon the river flowing with a strong current; and at its full width the water not more than a foot below the level of the right bank. Thus the Murray seemed to flow through that reedy expanse, unmarked in its course by trees or bushes, although one or two distant clumps of yarra probably grew on the banks of the permanent stream. At two miles further on these trees again grew plentifully, close under the berg along which we travelled, and where I hoped again to see the river. We found however that the yarras only enclosed shallow lagoons; and on a small oasis of dry ground near one of them we encamped for the night. A species of solanum forming a very large bush was found this day in the scrub, also several interesting shrubs, and among them some fine specimens of that rare one, the Eucarya murrayana. But in all these scrubs on the Murray the Fusanus acuminatus is common and produces the quandang nut (or kernel) in such abundance that it and gum acacia may in time become articles of commerce in Australia.*
(*Footnote. Having brought home specimens of most of the woods of the interior, I find that several of the acacias would be valuable for ornamental work, having a pleasing perfume resembling that of a rose. Some are of a dark colour of various shades and very compact; others light-coloured and resembling in texture box or lancewood. The new caper tree also resembles the latter so much as not to be distinguished from it. Specimens of these woods may be seen at Hallet’s, Number 83 High Holborn.)
June 20.
The morning was frosty and clear. Soon after we left our encampment we came to a ridge or berg, bare of trees with the exception of a fine clump on the highest part; and behind it was an extensive flat which was also destitute of wood, only a few atriplex bushes appearing upon it. I sent the carts across this flat while I rode along the crest of the ridge. The sea of reeds skirted this ridge on the north, and a meandro-serpentine canal full of water intersected the reedy expanse in almost all directions. The river flood had not reached it, at least if it had the water continued unmoved by any current. I perceived some smoke arising from the reeds at the distance of a mile, and at the extreme point of a tongue of firmer ground which extended into them.
PIPER SPEAKS TO NATIVES ON THE RIVER.
Piper went boldly up to the fire and found three families of blacks in as many canoes on the river. They told him there was a junction of rivers some way ahead of us; and I understood him to say that part of these natives had come across from Waljeers. The country opened more and more as we proceeded, and the basin of reeds was more extensive. The bergs on the opposite side (on which I had fixed several points) were distant on an average about eight miles, which was the breadth therefore of that low margin of reeds. The winding borders of this plain terminated on our side in rich grassy flats, some of which extended back farther than I could discover; and on two of these plains I perceived fine sheets of water, surrounded by shining verdure and enclosed by sheltering hills clothed with Callitris pyramidalis.
GOOD LAND ON THE MURRAY.
One or two spots seemed very favourable for farms or cattle stations. The soil in these grassy flats was of the richest description: indeed the whole of the country covered by reeds seemed capable of being converted into good wheat land, and of being easily irrigated at any time by the river. This stream was also navigable when we were there, and produce might be conveyed by it at such seasons to the seashore. There was no miasmatic savannah, nor any dense forest to be cleared; the genial southern breeze played over these reedy flats which may one day be converted into clover-fields. For cattle stations the land possessed every requisite, affording excellent winter grass back among the scrubs to which cattle usually resort at certain seasons; while at others they could fatten on the rich grass of the plains, or during the summer heat enjoy the reeds amid abundance of water. We found on these plains an addition to the common grasses.* The fine open country afforded extensive views, and to the eastward and south-east we saw hills with grassy sides and crowned with callitris.
(*Footnote. An Andropogon allied to A. bombycinus.)
WOOD AND WATER SCARCE.
Through the intervening valley flowed the Murray, the course of which was seldom visible as no trees grew along its border. Under such circumstances we could not encamp upon the bank, neither could it be safely approached by cattle; and our prospect of obtaining wood and watering our animals was this day rather uncertain. At length we came upon a path which Mr. Stapylton pursued amongst high reeds for a mile without reaching the river as we both expected. I continued to travel towards four trees on the side of a green hill, still at a great distance but in the direction in which I wished to proceed.
JUNCTION OF TWO BRANCHES. SWAN HILL.
When we arrived there just before sunset we had the good fortune to find close under the hill a bend of the Murray, and to discover the junction of another river or branch with it at this point. Within the margin we found a small pond quite accessible to the cattle, and behind the hill was an extensive flat covered with the richest grass. Here therefore we could encamp most contentedly beside a clear hill, always a desirable neighbour, and an accessible river. We were also thus enabled to determine the junction perhaps of two rivers, an important object in geography. The latitude was 35 degrees 19 minutes 43 seconds South.
The lesser stream was about 50 yards wide, but below the junction the main stream divided into two branches so that I was doubtful whether this might not be only the termination of an ana-branch. From the falling off of the bergs on the distant right bank, and the approach of a line of lofty trees from the same quarter, I was almost convinced that some junction took place thereabouts, as indeed the natives last seen had informed us. During the day columns of smoke arose behind us in the direction where we had seen these natives, and further eastward we perceived a widespreading conflagration, doubtless caused by them although this expression of ire troubled us but little so long as the flames did not approach our route. The scrubs now receded from the river, but the curious variety of acacias they contained still drew our attention towards them. We found this day several which were new. One with a rigid hard leaf, not in flower, resembled in many respects the A. farinosa met with two days later, but it was perfectly smooth in all its parts.* Another appeared to be related to A. hispidula, but with much narrower leaves without the ragged cartilaginous margin of that species.**
(*Footnote. A. sclerophylla, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis angulatis glabriusculis, phyllodiis rigidis carnosis rectiusculis linearibus apice latioribus mucronulatis multinerviis glabris eglandulosis, capitulis 1-2 sessilibus glaberrimis.)
(**Footnote. A. aspera, Lindley manuscripts; phyllodiis oblongo-linearibus uninerviis mucronatis eglandulosis ramisque angulatis asperrimis, capitulis 1-2 axillaribus, pedunculis villosis phyllodiis duplo brevioribus.)
CHAPTER 3.7.
Exploring through a fog.
Lakes.
Circular Lake of Boga.
Clear grassy hills.
Natives on the lake.
Scarcity of fuel on the bank of a deep river. Different character of two rivers.
Unfortunate result of Piper’s interview with the natives of the lake. Discovery of the Jerboa in Australia.
Different habits of the savage and civilized. A range visible in the south.
Peculiarities in the surface of the country near the river. Water of the lakes brackish, or salt.
Natives fly at our approach.
Arrival in the dark, on the bank of a watercourse. Dead saplings of ten years growth in the ponds. Discovery of Mount Hope.
Enter a much better country.
Limestone.
Curious character of an original surface. Native weirs for fish.
Their nets for catching ducks.
Remarkable character of the lakes.
Mr. Stapylton’s excursion in search of the main stream. My ride to Mount Hope.
White Anguillaria.
View from Mount Hope.
Return of Mr. Stapylton.
SWAN HILL.
June 21.
Among the reeds on the point of ground between the two rivers was a shallow lagoon where swans and other wild fowl so abounded that, although half a mile from our camp, their noise disturbed us through the night. I therefore named this somewhat remarkable and isolated feature Swan Hill, a point which may probably be found to mark the junction of two fine streams.
EXPLORING THROUGH A FOG.
I wished to devote the day to meteorological observations as prearranged with my friends in the Colony, Mr. Dunlop and Captain King; but a thick fog in the morning promised a day of clear settled weather, and I was obliged to proceed; I observed the barometer however every hour during the journey. For several miles we travelled through the mist over plains partly covered with reeds and partly with grass. Having reconnoitred the country on the previous evening I had no difficulty in pursuing the direction I then chose for this day’s route.
LAKES. CIRCULAR LAKE OF BOGA.
At eleven A.M. when the fog arose I perceived a low grassy ridge before us; and a fine lake covered with black swans, ducks and other waterfowl was afterwards discovered beyond it. We passed along the southern shore of this lake, thus keeping it between us and the river. It was surrounded with reeds and bulrushes, and appeared to be supplied by a small feeder from the river, like other similar lakes which we had seen near rivers elsewhere: but the water could pass by such small channels only during the highest floods, for the lake was even then very low, although the flood in the river was evidently high. This lake was about three miles in circumference.
CLEAR GRASSY HILLS.
As I ascended a grassy hill two miles beyond it I perceived on my left another smaller lake; with no reeds about it, but with grass growing to the water’s edge; and there we also found a curious little plant covered with short imbricated silvery leaves, but not in flower. Behind the lake, or away from the river, was the low scrub of the back country in which I again saw, just coming into flower, the Cassia heteroloba discovered on the 6th instant. On reaching the top of the hill I discovered to the eastward a third lake, much larger than either of the others, and apparently of a different character for its banks were higher, and it contained one or two small islets while the surface of the water was covered with some brown aquatic weed. It was bounded on the east by a ridge which seemed green, smooth, and quite clear of trees. A low neck of firm ground separated the lake first seen from this; and it was also connected with the hill on which I then stood.
NATIVES ON THE LAKE.
In one place, a narrow line of high reeds appearing likely to impede us, Mr. Stapylton rode forward to examine it. As he reached the spot much smoke suddenly arose, evidently from natives whom he had thus accidentally disturbed. He nevertheless pressed forward amongst the reeds, and soon reappeared on the green hill beyond, thus showing us there was no obstruction, and the carts proceeded through. These reeds enveloped a small creek or hollow through which the floods of the river supplied the lake. In one part was a pool of water, and in another the bottom was so soft that the united strength of two teams was necessary to draw out the wheel of a cart which sunk into it. We found there the huts of natives who had fled on Mr. Stapylton’s approach, having left their fishing spears, skin cloaks, shields, etc. They soon appeared on the lake in twenty-four canoes, all making for the little isle in the centre which, being covered with reeds, was probably their stronghold according to their modes of warfare. The aquatic tribes, as I have elsewhere observed, invariably take to the water in times of alarm, and from among the reeds in their little island these people could easily throw their spears at any assailant without being themselves exposed, or even seen. Piper found in their huts some fragments of blue earthenware, nicely attached with gum to threads by which it would appear that the gins wore them in their hair as ornaments.
SCARCITY OF FUEL ON THE BANK OF A DEEP RIVER.
Being desirous to learn the native names of these lakes, and to obtain some information respecting the rivers, I requested Piper and the two Tommies to remain behind for the purpose of obtaining a parley if possible. I should indeed have encamped by this lake had not the environs been entirely destitute of wood. Before us however, although at the distance of some miles, was a line of majestic trees which appeared to mark the course of a river; and I had directed Mr. Stapylton to lead the party through the reeds along an interval which appeared to be chiefly covered with grass, and by which I expected he would arrive at the line of high trees. Meanwhile I was occupied alone to the southward of the lake, surveying it. Near the margin I found a small fragment of highly vesicular lava.
DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER.
The ground traversed by the party was firm and, when I overtook it within a mile and a half of the line of trees, we came suddenly on a river full to the very margin, and flowing slowly to the westward, its width being about 50 yards. Not a tree grew near it, nor did I see any indication of a river until I reached the bank.
The ground presented an unbroken level, or declined slightly towards the line of trees which still marked, as I supposed, the course of the Murray. We had no means of reaching it however, nor any alternative left but to change our route towards the east-south-east and travel along the bank of this river, in hopes it might at last approach the trees. We found on the contrary that it receded from them towards a country without a single bush; and thus while the sun was setting on a raw frosty evening we could not encamp for want of fuel, although water and grass were abundant. One solitary group of trees seeming to be on our side of the stream, though distant about two miles, Mr. Stapylton and myself galloped towards them, the party following. There too we found the river, separating us even from these trees, three very small ones only being on our side, and likely to fall when cut into the stream. It had become quite dark before we got to them but, by lighting some reeds, the rest of the party found its way to us; and there we encamped, although the green wood could not be made to burn, while the thermometer stood so low as 29 degrees. We were perhaps more sensible of the want of fuel from the abundance so apparent on the banks of what seemed another river at so small a distance across the open plain.
DIFFERENT CHARACTER OF TWO RIVERS.
These streams flowing so near each other seemed in this respect distinctly different: the one being edged with only reeds, the other with lofty trees like almost every interior river of New South Wales.
UNFORTUNATE RESULT OF PIPER’S INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES OF THE LAKE.
Piper came in soon after the carts arrived, bringing a sad account of his interview with the natives. It appeared that, as soon as our party had proceeded to some distance from the lake, twelve men sprang from among the reeds armed with spears, boomerangs, etc., and when Piper accosted one of them, inquiring the name of the lake “I wont tell you,” was the answer (murry coolah, i.e. very angrily). They then told him there was “too much ask” about him, and they blamed him for bringing the whitefellows there; adding that they did not like him; and an old man calling to the rest to kill him, for that he was no good, two spears were immediately thrown. These Piper parried with his carabine, and then instantly discharged it at the foremost, wounding him in the right jaw. The rest immediately disappeared among the reeds. The wounded savage fell, but Piper loaded again and killed him by another shot through the body. Such was Piper’s story. I blamed him very much for firing at the wounded man, and I regretted exceedingly the result of his interview. I was besides most anxious to maintain a good understanding with these people.
The spears used on this occasion were made of reed and pointed with bones of the emu; but we saw at their huts several heavy jagged ones of very hard wood for the purposes of fishing. The natives wore cloaks made of kangaroo skins.
DISCOVERY OF THE JERBOA IN AUSTRALIA.
A very curious and rare little quadruped was this day found by the two Tommies, who had never before seen such an animal. Its fore and hind legs resembled in proportion those of the kangaroo; and it used the latter by leaping on its hindquarters in the same manner as that animal. It was not much larger than a common fieldmouse, but the tail was longer in proportion to the rest of the body even than that of a kangaroo, and terminated in a hairy brush about two inches long.* (Plate 29.)
(*Footnote. This appears to be a species of Jerboa, thus for the first time seen by us in Australia. My friend Mr. Ogilby has described this animal in the Linnean Transactions from my drawing and descriptions; the specimen itself having been deposited in the Australian Museum at Sydney. Dipus mitchellii, D. plantis subpentadactylis; corpore supra cinereo-fusco, subtus albido; auriculis magnis, cauda longissima, floccosa. Linnean Transactions volume page 129.)
We also discovered a beautiful new species of the Cape genus Pelargonium, which would be an acquisition to our gardens. I named it P. rodneyanum* in honour of Mrs. Riddell at Sydney, grand-daughter of the famous Rodney.
(*Footnote. P. rodneyanum, Lindley manuscripts; patentim pilosum, caule subterraneo horizontali crasso fragili ramos erectos promente apice tantum epigaeos foliosos, ramulis herbaceis erectis, foliis ovato-oblongis sublobatis basi cuneatis obtusis grosse crenatis tenuibus glabriusculis longipetiolatis, pedunculis erectis foliis longioribus, umbellis tomentosis 8-10-floris demum laxis divaricatis, petalis anguste obovatis calyce triplo longioribus, staminum tubo obliquo: sterilium 3 denticuliformibus, fortilium 2 sterilibus interjectis caeteris longioribus.)
DIFFERENT HABITS OF THE SAVAGE AND CIVILIZED.
At this camp where we lay shivering for want of fire, the different habits of the aborigines and us, strangers from the north, were strongly contrasted. On that freezing night the natives, according to their usual custom, stripped off all their clothes previous to lying down to sleep in the open air, their bodies being doubled up around a few burning reeds. We could not understand how they could lay thus naked when the earth was white with hoar frost; and they were equally at a loss to know how we could sleep in our tents without a bit of fire to keep our bodies warm. For the support of animal heat, fire and smoke are almost as necessary to them as clothes are to us. The naked savage however is not without some reason on his side, for fire is the only means he possesses to warm his body when cold, and it is therefore the only comfort he ever knows; whereas we require both fire and clothing and have no conception of the intensity of enjoyment imparted to the naked body of a savage by the glowing embrace of a cloud of smoke in winter. In summer also he may enjoy, unrestrained by dress, the luxury of a bath in any pool when not content with the refreshing breeze that fans his sensitive body during the intense heat. Amidst all this exposure the skin of the Australian native remains as smooth and soft as velvet, and it is not improbable that the obstructions of drapery would constitute the greatest of his objections in such a climate to the permanent adoption of a civilised life.
A RANGE VISIBLE IN THE SOUTH.
June 22.
A night of hard frost was succeeded by a beautifully clear morning. The refraction brought the summits of a distant range above the south-east horizon; and the sight was so welcome to us, after having found Australia a mere desert from the want of hills, that I was at a loss for a name to give these that should sufficiently express my satisfaction. I found the breadth of the river at our camp to be 50 yards; and the velocity 4 chains (or 88 yards) in 127 seconds, being something less than a mile and a half per hour; and the height of the bank above the water to be 18 inches.
PECULIARITIES IN THE SURFACE OF THE COUNTRY NEAR THE RIVER.
The entirely open country through which the nearer river or branch continued to flow, and the lofty and remarkable trees on the banks of the other enabled me, in chaining along our route, to survey the course of both by fixing points on the more distant, and tracing the nearer. At length we approached a better-wooded country where clear green hills appeared to our right. I ascended the highest of these and discovered a vast plain beyond which appeared to be, or rather to have been, the bed of an extensive lake. I was now struck with the uncommon regularity of the curve described by the hill or ridge, having previously observed the same peculiarity in that which overlooked the lake of the savage tribe. We passed over some slight undulations covered with luxuriant grass, and were not sorry to see a wood of pines (or callitris) on our left. Large gumtrees (yarra) grew beyond and, the general course I wished to pursue leading towards them, I hoped to reach there an angle of the river. We found however that they hung over a small ana-branch only, in which the muddy flood-water of the river was then flowing. This stream was nevertheless exactly what we wanted, being safely accessible to our cattle, which the river itself was not. We therefore pitched our tents on a spot where there was excellent grass, and wood was again to be had in great abundance. We found in the adjacent scrub a remarkably rigid bush with stiff sickle-shaped blunt leaves and mealy balls of flowers not quite expanded;* also an acacia resembling A. hispidula, but the leaves were quite smooth and much smaller.** In approaching this spot we had passed along a low sandy ridge, every way resembling a beach but covered with pines and scrub. A bare grassy hill extended southward from each end of it; and the intervening hollow containing some water was evidently the bed of a lake, nearly dry.
(*Footnote. It is found to be an acacia related to A. multinervia. A. farinosa, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis angulatis glabriusculis, phyllodiis rigidis carnosis incurvis linearibus apice latioribus mucronatis multinerviis glabris: margine superiore infra medium glanduloso, capitulis 2-4 axillaribus breviter pedunculatis farinosis.)
(**Footnote. For description see 19th September.)
June 23.
The most eastern of these smooth bare ridges was immediately above our camp and, observing in it the regularity of curve which I had noticed in others, I was struck with the analogy, and in these ridges being always on the eastern shore of hollows or lakes, while the western was irregularly indented, and was in some parts so abrupt as to have the character of cliffs. The southern end of the ridges was generally the highest.
WATER OF THE LAKES BRACKISH, OR SALT.
Perceiving no reeds near the lake nor any birds upon it I sent Mr. Stapylton to taste the water, which he found to be quite salt, like that of the sea. This and several of the other basins were surrounded by high ground and were without any communication with the river.
NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH.
I passed soon after another of these circular basins which, although much smaller, presented similar features, and had some rather brackish water in pools in the deepest part. During the day’s journey we passed several ridges connected with extensive basins in a similar manner, and in the bottom of one of these I perceived Polygonum junceum growing amongst yarra trees. On the western shore we saw the remains of large native ash-hills. They were old and overgrown with bushes, but they proved that this lake had once contained mussels and the balyan or bulrush, a root eaten by the natives and cooked in such ovens as these. The other lake was surrounded by a circle of yarra trees and had but recently become dry, the earth in it being still without vegetation and covered with innumerable native companions and white cockatoos. Finding no indication of the river, notwithstanding the presence of so many yarra trees, I turned to the east towards another line of them which appeared still more promising. There however we encountered the dry bed only of a small creek which we crossed, and continued eastward, passing over much grassy land, and through much wood of the box or goborro species of eucalyptus. We travelled thus upwards of seven miles beyond the dry creek without discovering any sign of the river, although we had previously traced it so far in pursuing a much more southerly direction.
NATIVES FLY AT OUR APPROACH.
The natives were heard in this wood chopping with their stone hatchets but they fled at our approach. On entering a small plain we saw their deserted fire on the opposite side. Beyond this another plain, still more extensive, appeared before us, and a few yarra trees on the horizon gave some promise of water, though not of the river.
ARRIVAL IN THE DARK, ON THE BANK OF A WATERCOURSE.
Before I reached the spot and while far ahead of the party darkness had overtaken us; but I found there a deep creek with some water in large ponds; and by lighting a fire the carts at length came up to us, after a journey of nineteen miles. This seemed by moonlight such a singular place that I was anxious for daylight to see at what we had arrived.
June 24.
I expected to find the main stream not far from the ponds, but the morning light shone over a plain which extended in a north-western direction to the very horizon. It was bounded on the north by very distant trees which had not the usual appearance of trees distinguishing the river. The country on all sides seemed perfectly level, and if there was any exception at all it was in the box forests to the southward whence we had come, and where the land seemed lower than the plain on which we had encamped. The bed of the creek was full twenty feet below the general surface. The symmetry of the curves described by it was remarkable, and it was rendered still more striking by a narrow line of rushes which had grown on the margin of the water when it had stood at a much higher level.
DEAD SAPLINGS OF TEN YEARS GROWTH IN THE PONDS.
A concentric border of grass of uniform breadth grew on the slope above the rushes, and one of fragrant herbs below the line of rushes, all being at nearly equal distances; while a single row of bare poles measuring from three to five inches in diameter stood where a row of saplings had grown in what had, at one time, been the very centre of the stream. These poles were the remains of yarra trees eight or ten years old, and marked the extent doubtless of a long period of drought which had continued until some high flood killed them.
DISCOVERY OF MOUNT HOPE.
The grass was excellent over the whole of the plains on both sides and, from a tree near the camp, Burnett descried a goodly hill bearing 36 1/2 degrees East of South and distant, as afterwards ascertained, twenty-two miles.
Near our camp we found some recent fireplaces of the natives, from which they must have hastily escaped on our approach for, in the branches of a tree, they had left their net bags containing the stalks of a vegetable that had apparently undergone some culinary process, which gave them the appearance of having been half boiled. Vegetables are thus cooked, I was told, by placing the root or plant between layers of hot embers until it is heated and softened. The stalks found in the bag resembled those of the potato, and they could only be chewed, such food being neither nutritious nor palatable for it tasted only of smoke.* A very large ash-hill, raised no doubt by repeated use in such simple culinary operations, and probably during the course of a great many years, was close to our camp. On its ample surface were just visible the vestiges of a very ancient grave, once encompassed by exactly the same kind of ridges that I had observed around the inhabited tomb near the junction of the Lachlan and Murrumbidgee. The natives were at length seen about two miles off on the skirts of the wood; and although I sent forward the overseer and Piper, each carrying a large green bough, they all ran away, leaving behind them their spears and skin cloaks.
(*Footnote. July 17 1838. This plant has at length flowered in the Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick and proves to be a new species of Pieris of which Dr. Lindley has favoured me with the following description: P. barbarorum; sparse hispida, foliis ciliatis supra nitidis scabriusculis radicalibus spathulato-lanceolatis subdentatis caulinis oblongis sessilibus amplexi-caulibus recurvis dentatis integrisque, caule stricto ramoso, involucri foliolis lineari-lanceolatis acutis apice vel secus dorsum serie simplici pilorum longorum reflexorum appendiculatis, achaeniis badiis longe rostratis transverse rugosissimis disci sterilibus.)
While the party proceeded eastward along the bank of Moonlight creek, as we named it, I sent Mr. Stapylton across the wide plain to ascertain, if possible, whether the river flowed through it without the usual indication of trees on its banks, as we had found to be the case below. Mr. Stapylton found beyond the northern limits of the plain, amongst yarra trees, an ana-branch only, but containing quite clear and still water.
The course of the creek which I in the meantime traced first led me to the north-east where high trees seemed to mark its course, to the bed of the river; but a smaller branch, still dry, extended southward from it, which, on returning to the main party, I found it desirable that the carts should cross. We next passed for three miles through a forest of goborro, and then crossed a plain three miles in extent. Beyond the plain we approached a promising line of lofty yarra trees, but found it shaded only a hollow subject to inundations. Two miles and a half further we came to another similar line of trees, and we found within its shade an ana-branch full of clear water. A little in advance a much deeper branch afforded a good spot for our camp, as I intended to cross it by some means in the afternoon and seek for the river.
ENTER A MUCH BETTER COUNTRY.
The plains we had crossed this day were covered with excellent grass; and in many places detached groups of trees gave to the country a park-like appearance very unlike anything on the banks of the Darling.
After crossing the creek by means of a fallen tree, I found the ground beyond to be of the richest description, with excellent grass and lofty yarra trees growing upon it. I passed through two separate strips of high reeds extending north-east and south-west; but I found they only enveloped lagoons of soft mud and, seeing no appearance of the river at two miles from the camp, I returned. We found on the hills a little bush, very like European heaths, having the branches covered with small three-cornered leaves and tipped with clusters of small pink flowers.*
(*Footnote. Baeckea micrantha.)
LIMESTONE.
June 25.
The country we passed over this day was upon the whole richer in point of grass than any we had seen since we left Sydney; I therefore suspected that the soil had some better rock for a basis than sandstone; and I had reason to believe that it was limestone, from indications of subsidence which I observed on the surface.
CURIOUS CHARACTER OF AN ORIGINAL SURFACE.
We had discovered no similar country during either of the two former journeys. There were none of the acacia trees we had seen on the lower Bogan; while the grasses were also different from any of those on the Darling. A fine new species of Daviesia, very like a Grevillea and forming a most singular bush, grew here. It had no leaves, but green branches formed into short, broad, thick vertical plates arranged spirally, and much lower than the little axillary clusters of flowers which were just beginning to open.* We also met with bushes of the rare Trymalium majoranaefolium, a hoary bush with clusters of small grey flowers, enclosed when young in a bright, large membranous involucre. Once or twice distant rows of lofty gumtrees appeared to indicate the line of the river; but on approaching them we found either dry hollows or the same ana-branch, as it seemed, on which we last encamped. I observed at several places that the more dense box-forests near this branch of the river were skirted with ground broken into low undulations six or eight feet square. These appeared where there was great depth of soil, and were probably caused by deep rents or cracks opened at the first induration of the deposit, and subsequently modified by rain and other atmospheric agents. This seems to be the state of the deep deposits at the present day where, from the absence of trees, the surface of tenacious soils remains visible. I was first struck with this effect in the clays near the Darling where alternate saturation and desiccation seemed to check all vegetation. On the upper parts of the Bogan also I saw these inequalities on a very large scale, but there the hollows still exist under dense forests of casuarinae, and are so deep and extensive that I for some time was induced to examine them in hopes of finding water; but from a small hole or fissure still remaining there I soon learnt that any such search was hopeless.
(*Footnote. D. pectinata, Lindley manuscripts; glabra, aphylla, ramis lateralibus ensiformibus crassis rigidis spinosis verticalibus pectinatim spiralibus dorso decurrentibus racemulis glomeratis multo longioribus.)
When we had travelled some miles, the hill we had seen from the camp on Moonlight creek bore exactly south by compass, and appeared to be about half the distance that it was from us when discovered. At 3 1/2 miles we again came upon the ana-branch; a slight current now appeared in it and the water was tinged with the turbid colour of the main stream.
LAST CAMP ON THE MURRAY.
After winding around several of its turnings we encamped at one P.M. beside a large pool. This day’s journey was nearly fourteen miles.
June 26.
The barometer being unusually low, and some long journeys having prevented me from laying down my surveys of the lakes as well as having fatigued the cattle, I halted here with the intention of filling up my maps, refreshing the animals, and reconnoitring the country to the south-west, in which direction a vast extent was unexplored. The river we had endeavoured to trace thus far was now so shut in by ana-branches that it could rarely be seen at all; but I had now brought the survey of it so far upwards that I should be able to trace it, or its several tributaries, downwards upon the same point when returning to the northward, under the western extremities of the Snowy Range. I hoped then also to obtain a better knowledge of the branches composing the Murray than we possessed at this time.
This day I requested Mr. Stapylton to cross the piece of water where we had encamped, and endeavour to find the river in a north-east direction; but he ascertained that the watercourse turned northward, and to the west of north, without entering the river, as far as he traced it. He then returned after having followed its course five miles without falling in with the main stream. His party saw some of the natives who could not be induced to stop by all the calls of Piper.
NATIVE WEIRS FOR FISH.
Mr. Stapylton observed in the channel he traced a net or fence of boughs which the natives had that morning set up; and which showed not only that they expected a flood, but also, from the manner in which it was placed, that the water would flow first up the channel. This circumstance, as already observed, is not unusual in ana-branches where the lower end is naturally on a lower level, having been worn by the currents into a deeper channel there than at the upper end, where the water not unfrequently leaves the river by overflowing its banks in various channels of small depth.
THEIR NETS FOR CATCHING DUCKS.
The natives had left in one place a net suspended across the river between two lofty trees, evidently for the purpose of catching ducks and other waterfowl. The meshes were about two inches wide, and the net hung down to within five feet of the surface of the stream. In order to obtain waterfowl with this net some of the natives proceed up, and others down, the river to scare the birds from other places and, when any flight comes into the net, it is suddenly lowered into the water, thus entangling the birds beneath until the natives go into the water and secure them. Among the first specimens of art manufactured by the primitive inhabitants of these wilds none come so near our own as the net which, even in quality, as well as the mode of knotting, can scarcely be distinguished from those made in Europe. As these natives possess but little besides what was essentially necessary to their existence, we may conclude that they have used spears for killing the kangaroo, stone-axes for cutting out the opossum, and nets for catching birds, or kangaroos, or fish, since their earliest occupation of Australia.* Almost every specimen of art they possess is the result of urgent necessity. Perhaps the iron tomahawk is the only important addition made to their implements during many centuries.
(*Footnote. Isaiah 24:17 Fear, and the pit, and the snare are upon thee.] “These images are taken from the different methods of hunting and taking wild beasts which were anciently in use. The snare or toils were a series of nets enclosing, at first, a great space of ground in which the wild beasts were known to be, and drawn in by degrees into a narrower compass till they were at last closely shut up and entangled in them.” Harmer. This is precisely the method adopted by the Australian natives at present for the same or similar purposes.)
REMARKABLE CHARACTER OF THE LAKES.
On laying down my survey of the country which we had lately passed over I found that the lakes were nearly all circular or oval, and that a very regularly curved ridge, as before stated, bounded the eastern shore of all of them. The number of lakes or hollows of this character already seen by us to the south-west of the Murray amounted to eleven. In three of them the water was salt, and the greater number had no communication with the river; but between it and the others there was a narrow creek or gully, but accessible only to the highest floods. The northern margin of one of the salt lakes consisted of a bank of white sand on which grew thickly a kind of pine, different from the trees around. The channels between the river and the lakes seemed neither to belong to the original arrangement of watercourses, nor to ana-branches of the rivers; for they frequently extended upwards in directions opposed to that of the river’s course. The fact being established that some of these lakes have no obvious connection with the river, it becomes probable that they are the remains of what the surface was before the fluviatile process began to carry off its waters. I had no difficulty in referring to an early system of this kind other lakes which we had seen elsewhere, the anomalous peculiarities of which were equally remarkable. Among these were Cudjallagong and others adjacent; Waljeers; the two smaller on the Murrumbidgee named Weromba; also Lake Benanee and Prooa its neighbour; in all which the peculiarities accorded with what I had observed in those on the left bank of the Murray.
MR. STAPYLTON’S EXCURSION IN SEARCH OF THE MAIN STREAM.
June 27.
The morning was clear and Mr. Stapylton set out with a party of six men to trace, if possible, the branch on which we were encamped into the main stream. At ten the weather became hazy; at noon the sky was overcast; and at two P.M. a steady rain set in which continued until six P.M. when the barometer began to rise and, the moon soon after shining out, the sky became once more serene. A hill apparently covered with good grass was within sight of our present camp but inaccessible from it because a reach of deep and still water intervened. This day I sent Burnett with Piper to the hill, and they brought me some of the soil which I found consisted of loose red sand.
MY RIDE TO MOUNT HOPE.
June 28.
The morning being fine I at length proceeded towards the hill which we had already twice seen from great distances. It bore 206 degrees 45 minutes (from North) and was exactly ten miles from our camp. After riding six miles through box-forest we crossed a dry creek, and immediately entered upon an extensive plain beyond which I had the satisfaction of seeing the hopeful hill straight before me.
This hill consisted of immense blocks of common granite composed of white felspar and quartz and black mica; and it appeared to form the western extremity of a low range. It was indeed a welcome sight to us all after traversing for several months so much flat country; and to me it was particularly interesting for, from its summit, I expected to obtain an extensive view over the unknown region between us and the southern coast. I accordingly named the hill Mount Hope.
WHITE ANGUILLARIA.
On the verdant plain near its foot we found a beautiful white anguillaria, a flower we had not seen elsewhere and which, notwithstanding the season, was in full bloom and had a pleasing perfume. It might indeed be called the Australian snowdrop for its hardy little blossom seemed quite insensible to the frost.
VIEW FROM MOUNT HOPE.
On reaching the summit of Mount Hope I saw various higher hills extending from south-south-west to west-south-west at a distance of about 35 miles. They were not all quite connected, and I supposed them to be only the northern extremities of some higher ranges still more remote. I perceived along their base a line of lofty trees, but it was most apparent on the horizon to the westward of the heights. The intervening country consisted, as far as the glass enabled me to examine it, of open grassy plains, beautifully variegated with serpentine lines of wood. In all other directions the horizon was unbroken and, as the trees of the Murray vanished at a point bearing 143 1/2 degrees from North on the border of a very extensive plain, I concluded that an important change took place there in the course of that river or the Goulburn (of Hovell and Hume); for it was uncertain then which river we were near. The granitic range of Mount Hope terminates in the plains, one or two bare rocks only projecting above ground on the flats westward of the hill. On its summit we found some plants quite new to us and, among the rocks on its sides, a species of anguillaria different from that on the plains, being larger in the stem and having a dark brown ring within the chalice, the edge of the leaves being tinged with the same colour.* We found here again the Baeckea micrantha seen on the 24th instant, also a remarkable new species of Eriostemon forming a scrubby spiny bush, with much the appearance of a Leptospermum,** and a new and very beautiful species of Pleurandra, with the aspect of the yellow Cistus of the Algarves.*** A remarkable hill of granite appeared 5 1/3 miles from Mount Hope, bearing 30 degrees 10 minutes West of South. It is a triangular pyramid and, being quite isolated, it closely resembles the monuments of Egypt.
(*Footnote. Anguillaria dioica.)
(**Footnote. E. pungens, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis teretibus pilosulis, foliis acerosis pungentibus glandulosis, pedicellis solitariis axillaribus brevibus unifloris, staminibus glabriusculis, antheria inappendiculatis.)
(***Footnote. P. incana, Lindley manuscripts; foliis linearibus obtusis tomentosis marginibus revolutis costam tangentibus, floribus sessilibus terminalibus, staminibus 6 ima basi monadelphis.)
Soon after my return to the camp Mr. Stapylton came in with his party, having succeeded in finding the river by tracing the branch upwards of thirteen miles. This branch was connected with others on both sides, so that Mr. Stapylton was obliged at last to cross it, and make direct for the river which, at the point where he fell in with it, was running at the rate of 2940 yards per hour, and was 99 yards wide, being therefore probably still the Murray itself.
RETURN OF MR. STAPYLTON.
The country which I had seen this day beyond Mount Hope was too inviting to be left behind us unexplored; and I therefore determined to turn into it without further delay, and to pursue the bearing of 215 degrees from North as the general direction of our route, until we should fall in with the line of river trees before mentioned.
CHAPTER 3.8.
The Party quits the Murray.
Pyramid Hill.
Beautiful country seen from it.
Discovery of the river Yarrayne.
A bridge made across it.
Covered by a sudden rise of the river. Then cross it in boats.
Useful assistance of Piper.
Our female guide departs.
Enter a hilly country.
Ascend Barrabungalo.
Rainy weather.
Excursion southward.
The widow returns to the party.
Natives of Tarray.
Their description of the country.
Discover the Loddon.
The woods.
Cross a range.
Kangaroos numerous.
The earth becomes soft and impassable, even on the sides of hills. Discover a noble range of mountains.
Cross another stream.
Another.
General character of the country.
Proposed excursion to the mountains. Richardson’s creek.
Cross a fine stream flowing in three separate channels. A ridge of poor sandy soil.
Cross another stream.
Trap-hills and good soil.
Ascend the mountain.
Clouds cover it.
A night on the summit.
No fuel.
View from it at sunrise.
Descend with difficulty.
Men taken ill.
New plants found there.
Repose in the valley.
Night’s rest.
Natives at the camp during my absence.
THE PARTY QUITS THE MURRAY.
June 29.
The party moved forward in the direction of Mount Hope and, leaving it on the left, we continued towards Pyramid Hill where we encamped at about three-quarters of a mile from its base. We were under no restraint now in selecting a camp from any scarcity of water or grass; for all hollows in the plains contained some water and grass grew everywhere. The strips of wood which diversified the country as seen from the hills generally enclosed a depression with polygonum bushes, but without any marks of having had any water in them although, in very wet seasons, some probably lodges there, as in so many canals, and this indeed seemed to me to be a country where canals would answer well, not so much perhaps for inland navigation as for the better distribution of water over a fertile country enclosed as this is by copious rivers.
PYRAMID HILL.
June 30.
Having seen the party on the way and directed it to proceed on a bearing of 215 degrees from North I ascended the rocky pyramidic hill, which I found arose to the height of 300 feet above the plain.
BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY SEEN FROM IT.
Its apex consisted of a single block of granite, and the view was exceedingly beautiful over the surrounding plains, shining fresh and green in the light of a fine morning. The scene was different from anything I had ever before witnessed either in New South Wales or elsewhere. A land so inviting and still without inhabitants! As I stood, the first European intruder on the sublime solitude of these verdant plains as yet untouched by flocks or herds, I felt conscious of being the harbinger of mighty changes; and that our steps would soon be followed by the men and the animals for which it seemed to have been prepared. A haziness in the air prevented me however from perceiving clearly the distant horizon from that summit, but I saw and intersected those mountains to the southward which I had observed from Mount Hope.
The progress of the party was still visible from that hill, pursuing their course over the distant plains like a solitary line of ants. I overtook it when a good many miles on; and we encamped after travelling upwards of fourteen miles in one uninterrupted straight line. Our camp was chosen on the skirts of a forest of box, having a plain on the east covered with rich grass, and where we found some small pools of rainwater.
July 1.
Proceeding still on the bearing followed yesterday we reached at three miles from our camp a fine chain of ponds. They were deep, full of water, and surrounded by strong yarra trees. Passing them we met a small scrub of casuarinae which we avoided; and we next entered on a fine plain in which the anthisteria or oatgrass appeared. This is the same grass which grows on the most fertile parts of the counties of Argyle and Murray and is, I believe, the best Australian grass for cattle: it is also one of the surest indications of a good soil and dry situation.
DISCOVERY OF THE RIVER YARRAYNE.
Beyond the plain the line of noble yarra trees, which I had observed from Mount Hope, gave almost certain promise of a river; and at 6 1/2 miles our journey was terminated by a deep running stream. The banks were steep and about twenty feet high, but covered thickly with grass to the edge of the water. The yarra trees grew by the brink of the stream and not on the top of the bank. The water had a brown appearance as if it came from melted snow but, from the equality of depth (about nine feet) and other circumstances, I was of opinion that it was a permanent running stream. The current ran at the rate of four chains in 122 seconds, or near 1 1/2 mile per hour; thus it would appear from what we had seen that there is much uniformity in the velocity of the rivers, and consequently in the general inclination of the surface. The banks of this little river were however very different in some respects from any we had previously seen, being everywhere covered thickly with grass. No fallen timber impeded its course, nor was there any indication in the banks that the course was ever in the least degree affected by such obstructions.
A BRIDGE MADE ACROSS IT.
It was so narrow that I anticipated little difficulty in making a bridge by felling some of the overhanging trees. Finding a large one already fallen across the stream where the slopes of the banks could be most readily made passable, we lost no time in felling another which broke against the opposite bank and sunk into the water. No other large trees grew near but the banks were, at that place, so favourable for the passage of the waggons that I determined to take advantage of the large fallen tree; and to construct a bridge by bringing others of smaller dimensions to it, according to the accompanying plan, and not unmindful of the useful suggestions of Sir Howard Douglas respecting temporary bridges.
July 2.
Late in the evening of this day we completed a bridge formed of short but strong sleepers, laid diagonally to the fallen tree which constituted its main support, and the whole was covered with earth from cuttings made in the banks to render it accessible to the carts. At length everything was ready for crossing and we had thus a prospect of being able to advance beyond the river into that unknown but promising land of hill and dale.
COVERED BY A SUDDEN RISE OF THE RIVER.
July 3.
This morning our bridge was no longer to be seen, the river having risen so much during the night that it was four feet under water. Yet no rain had fallen for five days previous, and we could account for this unexpected flood only by supposing that the powerful shining of the sun during the last two days had melted the snow near the sources of the stream. At noon the water had risen fourteen feet. A whispering sound much resembling wind among the trees now arose from it and, however inconvenient to us, the novelty of a sudden rise in the river was quite refreshing, accustomed as we had been so long to wander in the beds of rivers and to seek in vain for water. Our little bridge continued to be passable even when covered with four feet of water but, as it had no parapets, we could not prevent some of the bullocks from going over the side on attempting to cross when it was thus covered.
THEN CROSS IT IN BOATS.
The river still continuing to rise, we were compelled at last to launch the boats, and by this means we effected the passage of the whole party and equipment before sunset; the boats having been also again mounted on the carriage the same evening. The carts and boat-carriage were drawn through the bed of the river by means of the drag-chains which reached from the carriage on one side to a strong team of bullocks on the other.
USEFUL ASSISTANCE OF PIPER.
This was a very busy day for the whole party, black and white; I cannot fairly say savage and civilised for, in most of our difficulties by flood and field, the intelligence and skill of our sable friends made the whitefellows appear rather stupid. They could read traces on the earth, climb trees, or dive into the water better than the ablest of us. In tracing lost cattle, speaking to the wild natives, hunting, or diving, Piper was the most accomplished man in the camp. In person he was the tallest, and in authority he was allowed to consider himself almost next to me, the better to secure his best exertions. When Mr. Stapylton first arrived Piper came to my tent and observed that “That fellow had TWO coats,” no doubt meaning that I ought to give one of them to him! The men he despised, and he would only act by my orders. This day he rendered us much useful assistance in the water; for instance, when a cart stuck in the bottom of the river, the rope by which it was to be drawn through having broken, Piper, by diving, attached a heavy chain to it, thereby enabling the party to draw it out with the teams.
OUR FEMALE GUIDE DEPARTS.
At this place The Widow, being far beyond her own country, was inclined to go back and, although I intended to put her on a more direct and safe way home after we should pass the heads of the Murrumbidgee on our return, I could not detain her longer than she wished. Her child, to whom she appeared devotedly attached, was fast recovering the use of its broken limb; and the mother seemed uneasy under an apprehension that I wanted to deprive her of this child. I certainly had always wished to take back with me to Sydney an aboriginal child with the intention of ascertaining what might be the effect of education upon one of that race. This little savage, who at first would prefer a snake or lizard to a piece of bread, had become so far civilised at length as to prefer bread; and it began to cry bitterly on leaving us. The mother however thought nothing of swimming, even at that season, across the broad waters of the Millewa, as she should be obliged to do, pushing the child before her, floating on a piece of bark.
ENTER A HILLY COUNTRY.
July 4.
At the distance of about a mile to the southward a line of trees marked the course of another channel which, containing only a few ponds, we crossed without difficulty. Beyond it we traversed a plain five miles in extent, and backed by low grassy hills composed of grey gneiss. The most accessible interval between these hills still appeared to be in the direction I had chosen at Mount Hope, as leading to the lowest opening of a range still more distant: I therefore continued on that bearing, having the highest of those hills to our left at the distance of five or six miles. On entering the wood skirting the wide plain, our curiosity was rather disappointed at finding, instead of rare things, the black-butted gum and casuarinae, trees common in the colony. The woolly gum also grew there, a tree much resembling the box in the bark on its trunk, although that on the branches, unlike the box, is smooth and shining. In this wood we recognised the rosella parrot, and various plants so common near Sydney but not before seen by us in the interior.
At ten miles we travelled over undulating ground for the first time since we left the banks of the Lachlan; and we crossed a chain of ponds watering a beautiful and extensive valley covered with a luxuriant crop of the anthisteria grass. Kangaroos were now to be seen on all sides, and we finally encamped on a deeper chain of ponds, probably the chief channel of the waters of that valley. A ridge of open forest-hills appearing before us, I rode to the top of one of the highest summits while the men pitched the tents; and from it I perceived a hilly country through whose intricacies I at that time saw no way, and beyond it a lofty mountain range arose in the south-west. To venture into such a region with wheel-carriages seemed rather hazardous when I recollected the coast ranges of the colony; and I determined to examine it further before I decided whether we should penetrate these fastnesses, or travel westward round them, thus to ascertain their extent in that direction and that of the good land watered by them.
July 5.
I proceeded with several men mounted towards the lofty hill to the eastward of our route, the highest of those I had intersected from Mount Hope and the Pyramid-hill, its aboriginal name, as I afterwards learnt, being Barrabungale.* Nearly the whole of our way was over granite rocks. We had just reached a naked mass near the principal summit when the clouds, which had been lowering for some time, began to descend on the plains to the northward, and soon closing over the whole horizon compelled me to return, without having had an opportunity of observing more than that the whole mass of mountains in the south declined to the westward. This was however a fact of considerable importance with respect to our further progress; for I could enter that mountain-region with less hesitation as I knew that I could leave it, if necessary, and proceed westward by following down any of the valleys which declined in that direction.
(*Footnote. Warrabangle is a very similar name and belongs to a hill similarly situated five degrees further to the northward. See Map.)
ASCEND BARRABUNGALE. RAINY WEATHER. EXCURSION SOUTHWARD.
July 6.
The morning being rainy, I could learn nothing more by ascending Barrabungale as I intended; but I rode into the country to the southward in order to examine it in the direction in which I thought it most desirable to lead the party. After passing over several well-watered grassy flats or valleys, each bounded by open forest-hills, we crossed at six miles from the camp a range the summit of which was covered by a low scrub, but it did not much impede our way. Beyond this range we again found open forest land, and we saw extensive flats still more open to our right, in which direction all the waters seemed to fall. At length, after travelling about twelve miles, we came upon a deep chain of ponds winding through a flat thickly covered with anthisteria and resembling a field of ripe grain. Smoke arose in all directions from an extensive camp of natives but, although I cooeyed and saw them at a distance, they continued to crouch behind trees and would not approach. I did not disturb them further, but returned with the intention of leading the party there the next day when I hoped to see more of these natives. An abundance of a beautiful white or pale yellow-flowered, herbaceous plant reminding me of the violets of Europe, to which it was nearly allied, grew on the sides of hills.*
(*Footnote. This has been ascertained to be a new species of the genus Pigea. P. floribunda, Lindley manuscripts; caule erecto ramoso, foliis alternis linearibus et lineari-lanceolatis obtusis glabris, racemulis secundis paucifloris foliis brevioribus, sepalis petalisque glandulosis ovatis acutis, labelli lamina obovata rotundata basi bilamellata, antheris sessilibus syngenistis apice lamina oblonga membranacea acutis, processibus 2 corniformibus basi staminum 2 anteriorum.)
THE WIDOW RETURNS TO THE PARTY.
In the evening The Widow returned with her child on her back. She stated that after we left our late encampment a numerous tribe arrived on the opposite bank of the river and, seeing the fires on her side, called out very angrily, as Piper translated her tale, “murry coola” (very angry); inquiring who had made those fires, and that, receiving no reply (for she was afraid and had hid herself) they danced a corrobory in a furious style during which she and the child crept away, and had passed two nights without fire and in the rain. Piper seemed angry at her return, but I took particular care that she should be treated with as much kindness as before. She was a woman of good sense and had been with us long enough to feel secure under our protection, even from the wrath of Piper as displayed on this occasion; and I discovered that her attempted return home had been suggested by Piper’s gin who probably anticipated a greater share of food after The Widow’s departure.
NATIVES OF TARRAY. THEIR DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY.
July 7.
The party moved to the creek where I had before seen the natives; and Piper found at their fires an old woman and several boys. They said, pointing far to the south-east, doubtless to Port Phillip, that a station of whitefellows was there and that they had been themselves to the sea, which was not very distant. The old woman spoke with expressive gestures of a part of the coast she called Cadong, where the waves raged; and of a river she named Woollamaee running into it. It appeared that the rest of the tribe were at that time in search of opossums; but she promised that when they returned in the evening or next day some of them should visit our camp.
July 8.
This morning Piper prevailed on an old man with his gins and some boys to come to us. The former pointed towards Cadong in the direction of 232 degrees from North and, in reply to my queries through Piper, said it was not Geelong (Port Phillip) but a water like it; and that no white men had ever been there. On mentioning lake Alexandrina by its native name Keyinga, he said that it was a place filled sometimes with rain (i.e. river-) water and not like Cadong which was saltwater. He described the whole country before us as abounding in good water and excellent grass; and he said that in the direction I was pursuing there was no impediment between me and the sea coast. Piper’s countenance brightened up with the good news this man gave him; assuring me that we should “find water all about: no more want water.” In return for all this intelligence I presented the old man with an iron tomahawk which he placed under him as he sat; and he continued to address me with great volubility for some time. I was told by Piper that he was merely saying how glad he was, and enumerating (apparently with a sort of poetic fervour) the various uses to which he could apply the axe I had given him. I left these natives with the impression on my mind that they were quiet, well-disposed people.
FINE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.
Proceeding a little west of south-west we intersected this creek (Tarray) three times, leaving it finally flowing southward and to our left, into that of Dyoonboors which it joined at a mile and a half from where we had been encamped. At three miles, having crossed a low ridge of forest land, we entered a fine valley, backed on the west by romantic forest hills, and watered by some purling brooks which united in the woods on the east. The flat itself had a few stately trees upon it, and seemed quite ready to receive the plough; while some round hillocks on the north were so smooth and grassy that the men said they looked as if they had already been depastured by sheep. From an extremity of the clear ridge I obtained an extensive view of the mountain chain to the south-east; and I intersected most of its summits. The whole seemed smooth (i.e. not rocky) grassy, and thinly timbered. Crossing the lower or outer extremity of this forest ridge, we entered another fine valley watered by a creek which we passed at six miles from the commencement of the day’s journey. This little channel was grassy to the water’s edge, and its banks were firm and about eight feet high, the course being eastward. In the valley I saw the Banksia for the first time since we left the Lachlan. A calamifolia, or needle-leaved wattle, occurred also in considerable quantity. After crossing two more brooks and some flats of fine land with grassy forest-hills on our right, we reached the crest of a forest-range which afforded an extensive view over the country beyond it. The surface seemed to be low for some distance, but then to rise gradually towards some rocky points over which were partially seen the summits of a higher range still further southward.
DISCOVER THE LODDON.
The descent to the low country was easy for our carts; and we found there a beautifully green and level flat, bounded on the south by a little river flowing westward. The banks of this stream consisted of rounded acclivities and were covered with excellent grass. The bed was 18 or 20 feet below the level of the adjacent flats and, from its resemblance in some respects to the little stream in England, I named it the Loddon. We encamped on its bank in latitude 36 degrees 36 minutes 49 seconds South, longitude 143 degrees 35 minutes 30 seconds East.
July 9.
By continuing the same line of route we crossed several minor rivulets, all flowing through open grassy vales bounded by finely undulating hills. At about three miles we came to a deep chain of ponds, the banks being steep and covered with grass. Keeping a tributary to that channel on our left, we passed some low hills of quartz; and a little beyond them we crossed poor hills of the same rock bearing an open box-forest.
THE WOODS.
After travelling through a little scrub we descended on one of the most beautiful spots I ever saw: The turf, the woods, and the banks of the little stream which murmured through the vale had so much the appearance of a well kept park that I felt loth to injure its surface by the passage of our cartwheels. Proceeding for a mile and a half along the rivulet and through a valley wholly of the same description, we at length encamped on a flat of rich earth (nearly quite black) and where the anthisteria grew in greater luxuriance than I had ever before witnessed in Australian grasses. The earth indeed seemed to surpass in richness any that I had seen in New South Wales; and I was even tempted to bring away a specimen of it. Our dogs killed three kangaroos, and this good fortune was most timely as I had that very morning thought it advisable to reduce the allowance of rations.
July 10.
Tracing upwards the rivulet of the vale we left this morning we passed over much excellent grassy land watered by it, the channel containing some very deep ponds surrounded by the white-barked eucalyptus.
CROSS A RANGE.
A hill on its bank consisted of a conglomerate in which the ferruginous matter predominated over the embedded fragments of quartz. The ground beyond was hilly, and we at length ascended a ridge, apparently an extremity of a higher range. On these hills grew the varieties of eucalypti known in the colony, such as ironbark, bluegum, and stringybark. The lower grounds were so wet and soft, and the watercourses in them so numerous, that I was desirous to follow a ridge as long as it would take us in the direction in which we were proceeding; and this range answered well for the purpose. Its crest consisted of ferruginous sandstone much inclined, the strike extending north-north-west. I found the opposite side much more precipitous, and that it overlooked a much lower country. In seeking a favourable line of descent for the carts, I climbed a still higher forest-hill on the left, which consisted chiefly of quartz-rock. I not only recognised from that hill some lofty points to the eastward, and obtained angles on them, but I also perceived very rugged summits of a range at a great distance in the south-west. Having selected among the various hills and dales before me that line of route which seemed the best and, having taken its bearing, I returned to conduct the carts by a pass along one side of that hill, having found it in a very practicable state for wheel-carriages. At three miles beyond the pass we crossed a deep creek running westward which I named the Avoca, and we encamped on an excellent piece of land beyond it.
KANGAROOS NUMEROUS.
This day we had even better fortune in our field sports than on the one before for, besides three kangaroos, we killed two emus, one of which was a female and esteemed a great prize, for I had discovered that the eggs found in the ovarium were a great luxury in the bush; and afforded us a light and palatable breakfast for several days.
July 11.
At the end of two miles on this day’s journey we crossed a deep stream running westward. The height of its banks above the water was twelve feet, and they were covered with a rich sward. The land along the margins of the stream was as good as that we were now accustomed to see everywhere around us, so that it was no longer necessary to note the goodness or beauty of any place in particular. At four miles we passed over a forest-hill composed of mica-slate and, after crossing another good valley at six miles, I saw before us, on gaining a low forest ridge, other grassy hills of still greater height, connected by a rock that cost us less trouble to ascend than I expected.
THE EARTH BECOMES SOFT AND IMPASSABLE, EVEN ON THE SIDES OF HILLS.
It was in the valleys now that we met most difficulty, the earth having become so soft and wet that the carts could be got through some places only by the tedious process of dragging each successively with the united strength of several teams.
DISCOVER A NOBLE RANGE OF MOUNTAINS.
From a high forest-hill about a mile east of our route I first obtained a complete view of a noble range of mountains rising in the south to a stupendous height, and presenting as bold and picturesque an outline as ever painter imagined. The highest and most eastern summit was hid in the clouds although the evening was serene. It bore West of South 26 degrees 54 minutes; and the western extremity, which consisted of a remarkably round hill, bore 16 degrees 30 minutes South of West. Having descended from the range by an easy slope to the southward, we passed through a beautiful valley in which we crossed, at a mile and a quarter from the hills, a fine stream flowing also westward; and in other respects similar to those we had already met. I named it Avon water and we encamped on its left bank.
CROSS ANOTHER STREAM.
July 12.
At two miles and a half from the spot where we had slept we crossed another stream flowing west-north-west which I named the Small-burn. Beyond it the ground was good and grassy, but at this season very soft, so that the draught was most laborious for the cattle. At seven miles we crossed a wet flat with ponds of water standing on it, and beyond we entered on a clay soil altogether different from any hitherto passed on this side the Yarrayne.
ANOTHER.
About eight miles from our camp we reached a fine running brook with grassy banks, its course being to the north-west. The bed consisted of red-sand and gravel, and the banks were about fourteen feet high, presenting fine swelling slopes covered with turf. On this stream, which I named the Dos casas, I halted, as it was doubtful whether some of the carts could be brought even so far before night, the ground having proved soft and rotten to such a degree, especially on the slopes of low hills, that in some cases the united strength of three teams had been scarcely sufficient to draw them through. It was night before the last cart arrived, and two bullocks had been left behind in an exhausted state.
GENERAL CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.
July 13.
We had at length discovered a country ready for the immediate reception of civilised man; and destined perhaps to become eventually a portion of a great empire. Unencumbered by too much wood, it yet possessed enough for all purposes; its soil was exuberant and its climate temperate; it was bounded on three sides by the ocean; and it was traversed by mighty rivers, and watered by streams innumerable. Of this Eden I was the first European to explore its mountains and streams, to behold its scenery, to investigate its geological character and, by my survey, to develop those natural advantages certain to become, at no distant date, of vast importance to a new people. The lofty mountain range which I had seen on the 11th was now before us, but still distant between thirty and forty miles; and as the cattle required rest I determined on an excursion to its lofty eastern summit. Such a height was sure to command a view of the country between these mountains and the sea in the direction of Lady Julia Percy’s Isles; and of that region between the range and those less connected forest-hills I had seen to the eastward.
PROPOSED EXCURSION TO THE MOUNTAINS.
When I first discovered these mountains I perceived that the land immediately to the eastward of them was very low and that, if I found it necessary, I might conduct the party in that direction to the coast. I was however more desirous to level my theodolite on that summit first, and thus obtain valuable materials for the construction of an accurate map of the whole country around it. I accordingly left the party encamped and proceeded towards the mountain, accompanied by six men on horseback, having previously instructed Mr. Stapylton to employ the men during my absence in forming a way down the bank, and a good ford across the stream in order that there might be no impediment to the immediate advance of the party on my return.
RICHARDSON’S CREEK.
Pursuing the bearing of 193 degrees we crossed, at three miles from the camp, a deep creek similar to that on which it was placed; and the first adventure of the morning occurred here. The fordable place was so narrow that the horse of one of the party plunged into the deep water with its rider who, while the animal was swimming, incautiously pulled the bridle and of course overturned it, so that they parted company in the water, the horse reaching one bank, the rider the other. The latter, who was my botanical collector Richardson, took his soaking on a cold frosty morning so philosophically, talking to his comrades as he made his way to the bank, partly swimming, partly floating on two huge portfolios, that I gave his name to the creek, the better to reconcile him to his wet jacket. We entered soon after upon one of the finest tracts of grassy forest land we had ever seen. The whole country recently crossed was good, but this was far better, having several broad and deep ponds, or small lakes, in the woods, and all full of the clearest water. At eight miles I perceived a forest-hill on my left (or to the eastward) and the country before us was so open, sloping and green, that I felt certain we were approaching a river; and we soon came upon one, which was full, flowing and thirty feet wide, being broader than the Yarrayne but not so uniformly deep. Unlike the latter river, reeds grew about its margin in some places, and its banks, though grassy and fifteen feet high, were neither so steep as those of the Yarrayne, nor so closely shut together.
CROSS A FINE STREAM FLOWING IN THREE SEPARATE CHANNELS.
We swam our horses across, but our progress had scarcely commenced again on the other side when it was impeded by another similar stream or channel. In this we managed, with Piper’s assistance, to find a ford but, at less than a quarter of a mile, we met a third channel, more resembling the first in the height of its banks and velocity of the current, and also from its flowing amongst bushes. This we likewise forded, and immediately after we ascended a piece of rising ground which convinced me that we had at length crossed all the branches of that remarkable river. It is probable we came upon it where it received the waters of tributaries, and some of these channels might be such.
A RIDGE OF POOR SANDY SOIL.
We next fell in with some undulating ground different in many respects from any that we had traversed during the morning. The soil was poor and sandy; and the stunted trees and shrubs of the Blue mountains grew upon it, instead of the novelties we expected at such a great distance from home. We also recognised the birds common about Sydney. On reaching the higher part of this ground (at nine miles) I again saw the mountain which then bore 196 degrees. The intervening ground seemed to consist of a low ridge rather heavily wooded, its crest presenting a line as level as the ocean. At eleven miles I supposed we were upon the dividing ground between the sea-coast country and that of the interior, and on what appeared to be the only connection between the forest mountains to the eastward and the lofty mass then before us. We found upon this neck huge trees of ironbark and stringybark; some fine forest-hills appeared to the eastward and distant only a few miles.
CROSS SEVERAL FINE STREAMS.
At the end of sixteen, eighteen, nineteen, twenty-one, and twenty-three miles we crossed small rivers, all flowing westward, and the third over sandstone. After passing the last or fifth stream, we halted on a very fine open, dry and grassy flat. We found a large fallen tree which we set on fire and passed the night, a very mild one, most comfortably on the ground beside it, with the intention of renewing our journey at daylight in the morning.
TRAP-HILLS AND GOOD SOIL.
July 14.
On leaving our bivouac we crossed some hills of trap-rock which were lightly wooded and covered with the finest grass in great abundance. The scenery around them, the excellent quality of the soil, the abundance of water and verdure, contrasted strangely with the circumstance of their lying waste and unoccupied. It was evident that the reign of solitude in these beautiful vales was near a close; a reflection which, in my mind, often sweetened the toils and inconveniences of travelling through such houseless regions. At the foot of the last hill, and about a mile on our way, we crossed a chain of deep ponds running to the south-west. Beyond them was a plain of the very finest open forest-land, on which we travelled seven miles; and then came upon a river with broad deep reaches of very clear water, and flowing towards the north-west. We easily found a ford and, on proceeding, entered upon a tract of white sand where banksia and casuarinae were the chief trees. There was also some good grass but it grew rather thinly upon it. The next water we crossed was a small mountain-torrent hurrying along to the eastward in a deep and rocky channel overhung with bushes.
ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN.
Being now close under the mountain, we dismounted and sent our horses back for the sake of food to the bank of the last-mentioned river. The first part of our ascent, on foot, was extremely steep and laborious, although it was along the most favourable feature I could find. Above it the impediments likely to obstruct our further ascent were two high and perpendicular rocky cliffs; but I had observed before ascending those crevices and intervals between rocks where we might most easily effect an ascent; and through these we accordingly penetrated without much difficulty. The upper precipice consisted of cliffs about 140 feet in perpendicular height. Fortunately the ablest of the men with me was a house carpenter and, being accustomed to climb roofs, he managed to get up and then assist the rest.
CLOUDS COVER IT.
Having gained the top of this second precipice, we found winter and desolation under drizzling clouds which afforded but partial and transient glimpses of the world below. The surface at the summit of the cliffs was broad and consisted of large blocks of sandstone, separated by wide fissures full of dwarf bushes of banksia and casuarinae. These rocks were inclined but slightly towards the north-west and, the bushes being also wet and curiously encrusted with heavy icicles, it was by no means a pleasant part of our journey to travel nearly half a mile upwards, either on the slippery rock or between fissures among wet bushes. At length however we reached the highest point and found that it consisted of naked sandstone. The top block was encrusted with icicles, and had become hoary under the beating of innumerable storms. At the very summit I found a small heath-like bushy Leucopogon, from six inches to a foot high. It was in flower although covered with ice.* Also a variety of Leucopogon villosus, with rather less hair than usual, and another species of the same genus, probably new. Near the highest parts of the plateau I found a new species of eucalyptus with short broad viscid leaves, and rough-warted branches.**
(*Footnote. L. glacialis, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis pubescentibus, foliis lineari-lanceolatis erectis contortis acutis ciliatis margine scabris, floribus terminalibus solitaririis et aggregatis, pedicellis pubescentibus distanter squamatis, calcibus glabris.)
(**Footnote. E. alpina, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis brevibus rigidis angulatis, foliis alternis petiolatis ovato-oblongis viscosis basi obliquis, umbellis axillaribus paucifloris petiolis brevioribus, operculo hemisphaerico verrucoso inaequali tubo calycis turbinato verrucoso breviore.)
A NIGHT ON THE SUMMIT.
All around us was hidden in mist. It was now within half an hour of sunset, but the ascent had cost so much trouble, and the country this summit commanded was so interesting to us that I was unwilling to descend without trying whether it might not be clear of clouds at sunrise. We had not come prepared in any way to pass the night on such a wild and desolate spot, for we had neither clothing nor food, nor was there any shelter; but I was willing to suffer any privations for the attainment of the object of our ascent. One man, Richardson, an old traveller, had most wisely brought his day’s provisions in his haversack, and these I divided equally among FIVE. No rocks could be found near the summit to shelter us from the piercing wind and sleet.
NO FUEL.
The thermometer stood at 29 degrees, and we strove to make a fire to protect us from the piercing cold; but the green twigs, encrusted with icicles, could not by our united efforts be blown into a flame sufficient to warm us. There was abundance of good wood AT THE FOOT OF THE CLIFFS–huge trees of ironbark, stringybark and bluegum but, had we descended, a second ascent might have appeared too laborious on a mere chance of finding the summit clear; so we remained above. The men managed to manufacture some tea in a tin pot, and into the water as it boiled I plunged a thermometer which rose to exactly 95 degrees of the centigrade scale. We got through that night of misery as well as might have been expected under the circumstances, and we succeeded in keeping the fire alive although, while twigs were blown into red heat at one end, icicles remained at the other, even within a few inches of the flame. In order to maintain it through the night we divided, at eleven o’clock, the stock of branches which had been gathered before dark into eight parcels, this being the number of hours we were destined to sit shivering there; and as each bundle was laid on the dying embers we had the pleasure at least of knowing that it was an hour nearer daylight. I coiled myself round the fire in all the usual attitudes of the blacks, but in vain; to get warm was quite impossible, although I did once feel something like comfort when one of the men gave me for a seat a flat stone on which the fire had been blown for some hours. Partial cessations in the fall of sleet were also cheering occasionally; but the appearance of stars two hours before daylight promised to reward our enterprise and inspired me with hope.
VIEW FROM IT AT SUNRISE.
July 15.
At six o’clock the sky became clear, the clouds had indeed left the mountain and, as soon as it was day, I mounted the frozen rock. In the dawn however all lower objects were blended in one grey shade, like the dead colouring of a picture. I could distinguish only a pool of water, apparently near the foot of the mountain. This water I afterwards found to be a lake eight miles distant and in my map I have named it Lake Lonsdale, in honour of the Commandant then or soon after appointed at Port Phillip. I hastily levelled my theodolite but the scene, although sublime enough for the theme of a poet, was not at all suited to the more commonplace objects of a surveyor. The sun rose amid red and stormy clouds, and vast masses of a white vapour concealed from view both sea and land save where a few isolated hills were dimly visible. Towards the interior the horizon was clear and, during a short interval, I took what angles I could obtain. To the westward the view of the mountain ranges was truly grand. Southward or towards the sea I could at intervals perceive plains clear of timber and that the country was level, a circumstance of great importance to us; for I was apprehensive that between these mountains and the coast it might be broken by mountain gullies as it is in the settled colony and all along the Eastern coast. If such had proved to be the case the carts could not have been taken there; and I must have altered the plan of my intended route. Before I could observe the angles so desirable clouds again enveloped the mountain, and I was compelled to quit its summit without completing the work. The wind blew keenly, the thermometer stood as low as 27 degrees, and in the morning the rocks were more thickly encrusted with ice.
DESCEND WITH DIFFICULTY.
The difficulty of our descent under such circumstances was therefore increased but no impediment could have arrested us then, the lower regions having so many attractive charms for such cold and hungry beings.
MEN TAKEN ILL.
That night on the summit materially injured the health of two of my best men who had been with me on all three of my expeditions. Muirhead was seized with ague and Woods with a pulmonary complaint; and although both recovered in a few weeks they were never so strong afterwards.
NEW PLANTS FOUND THERE.
We found upon the mountain, besides those already mentioned, various interesting plants which we had seen nowhere else. Amongst them:
A most beautiful downy-leaved Epacris with large, curved, purple flowers, allied to E. grandiflora but much handsomer.*
(*Footnote. E. tomentosa, Lindley manuscripts; foliis ovatis acutis planis crassis tomentosis, floribus cernuis, corolla arcuata infundibulari laciniis obtusis apiculatis.)
A most remarkable species of Phebalium* with holly-like leaves and bright red flowers resembling those of a Boronia. It was related to P. phylicifolium but quite distinct.
(*Footnote. P. bilobum, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis tomentosis, foliis glabris cordato-ovatis retusis bilobis dentatis margine revolutis, pedicellis axillaribus pubescentibus folio brevioribus, ovario tricorni.)
A new Cryptandra remarkable for its downy leaves.*
(*Footnote. C. tomentosa, Lindley manuscripts; undique dense tomentosa, ramulis racemosis, foliis fasciculatis linearibus obtusis marginibus revolutis contiguis, capitulis terminalibus congestis, calycibus campanulatis bracteis acutis scariosis parum longioribus. Next to C.