miles farther up the river in the course of which we met with many rapids which obliged us to get out and drag the boats up. We had hitherto seen none of the natives, but discovered places where they had been by the marks of their fires. We now descried some of them at a distance, who fled on our approach. We came to a spot which they had just quitted and observed the marks of children’s feet. The ground was covered with freshwater shells of the sort found in the rivers of England and Scotland and called the horse mussel, having sometimes small pearls in them.
“We ascended two heights which commanded views of the country for several miles on every side. To one, Colonel Paterson gave the name of Ann’s Mountain after Mrs. King, the other he called Elizabeth’s Mountain, that being the Christian name of Mrs. Paterson. We now found that we had got behind the range of mountains extending along the coast to the south and west. We likewise saw the coast of Port Stephens and the chain of hills inland stretching in a direction towards the north-east. Between us and the hills was a space perfectly level for many miles, and to appearance swampy. The land on the south side of the river was interspersed with lagoons on which we killed some ducks but found them very shy. The country seemed not to be destitute of inhabitants, some of whom we descried at a distance. The river here meandered so greatly that to have pursued its course the boats must have been pulled a whole day to have gained a direct distance of four or five miles from our present station.
“The time limited for our departure for Sydney approaching very fast and the survey still to be made not being less than 70 miles up the river, it was judged prudent not to proceed any further. Passing the night upon the banks of the river we descended it the next day to our former rendezvous, Schanck Forest, Pasture Plains, where preparations were made for a general embarkation.
“The next morning I left Colonel Paterson in company of Mr. Barrallier, who then proceeded on the survey of the river. On our passage down it, we saw several natives with their canoes…In many of them we saw fires, and in some of them observed that kind of eatable to which they give the name of cabra.* (* Teredo.) It appears to be abominably filthy; however, when dressed, it is not disagreeable to the taste. The cabra is a species of worm which breeds in the wood that happens to be immersed in water, and are found in such parts of the river wherein trees have fallen. They grow to a great size and soon reduce timber to the appearance of a honeycomb. They are of a glutinous substance, and after being put on the fire harden to the consistence of the spinal marrow of animals. When fire is not at hand, the natives eat them raw; some of them being found at a fire near one of the canoes, I tasted them on the recommendation of one of my men and found them not unpalatable…
“We saw several natives at a small distance; one of them looked earnestly at us and seemed to be waiting our approach. One of my men called to him in his own language to stop, but at length he got behind a tree whence he presented only his head and shoulders, brandishing a fish-gig in his hand. He waited our landing, and seeing we were unarmed threw down his muton (so they named the fish-gig) and came readily to us. For what reason I know not (for we appeared without any marks of distinction) he addressed himself first to me, and taking from his forehead a small net which their women weave from the fur of the opossum he bound it round mine. In my turn I took out my pocket handkerchief and bound it round his head which pleased him very much, and we became from the moment the best of friends. I invited him on board the boat, and he readily accepted my invitation. When on board he was called to from the woods on the opposite shore by a number of voices which surprised us a little as we did not expect they were in such numbers. My new acquaintance called out in his turn to those on shore, and their cries immediately ceased. I have reason to think…that he assured them he had nothing to fear, which quieted their alarm.
“Proceeding further we saw a flock of ducks and I ordered one of the people to fire which he did and was lucky enough to kill two. Never did I witness stronger marks of surprise than were depicted on the stranger’s countenance when he heard the report of the gun and saw the two ducks fall into the water. His astonishment was increased when he got on board the vessel; everything…seemed to fill him with wonder and amazement. During the time he stayed on board he never quitted my side, and at the hour of rest he laid himself down near my bed place. I presented him with a small tomahawk which pleased him very much and he pronounced with much earnestness the word…’Mogo.’ He readily ate of whatever was set before him; spirits he would not touch, but sugar he took freely. He endeavoured to repeat our words after us; and was infinitely more tractable than the native last described. He was an elderly man, short in stature but well made; his arms and legs were long in proportion to his body which was slender and straight. Having occasion to despatch my first mate in a boat to Colonel Paterson I took that opportunity of sending off my New Hollander with directions that he should be landed on the precise spot from whence he was taken…When the first mate was returning he was surprised to find his passenger of the day before on the banks, who begged to be permitted to return to the vessel with him; he had a young lad with him whom he desired might accompany him and they were both brought on board. This lad made me understand that he wished to have a mogo and I soon found that I could not make a more acceptable present to a native…
“On the 19th we were rejoined by Colonel Paterson with the whole of his party. The Colonel had explored a branch of the river on the banks of which he found a species of flax growing which he thought was valuable. He had collected specimens of many rare and uncommon plants particularly some varieties of fern, but unfortunately was deprived of the fruits of his industry. His servant had made use of the bundle of plants as a pillow and having placed it too near the fire it was soon in a blaze, and he was awaked only in time to save his face from being scorched…
“We were now growing short of provisions and no vessel arriving from Sydney we set about making preparations for our return thither. There was now a small establishment made for the colliers.* (* At Collier’s Point.) I had built them a convenient hut to shelter them. I left them a boat and seine with what provisions I was able to spare. We took our departure for Sydney on the 22nd of July 1801, and arrived there on the 25th.”
Six weeks after his return to port, Grant sent in his resignation on the ground that he had so “little knowledge of nautical surveying.” The resignation was accepted by King, who wrote in reply: “I should have been glad if your ability as a surveyor or being able to determine the longitude of the different places you might visit was in anyway equal to your ability as an officer or a seaman.”
A very slight perusal of Grant’s narrative of his voyage enables us to grasp the state of his feelings when he sent in his resignation. It is evident that he thought he had not been treated fairly, and was glad to quit New South Wales. He writes of his departure: “The mortifications and disappointments I met with…induced me to seize the first opportunity of leaving the country.” And it seems possible that when he told King that he had no knowledge of “nautical surveying,” he said so because he knew King thought he had not, and it looks as if the admission was made as a pretext to obtain his passage to England, rather than for the purpose of belittling his own capabilities. That Grant was a fine seaman goes without saying. That he was personally courageous, his subsequent naval services proved. He seems to have handled his ship at all times with extraordinary care, and it may have been that he had studied marine surveying with less assiduity than seamanship, for the chart that he made must be admitted to be very imperfect.
Murray, his successor in the command of the brig, is best remembered as the discoverer of Victoria, and “yet,” writes Rusden, “he (Murray) merely obeyed a distinct order in going thither to trace the coast between Point Schanck and Cape Albany Otway noticing the soundings and everything remarkable.” Rusden might have added, that Murray probably received some benefit from Grant’s experiences, for at that time he was equally incompetent as a marine surveyor. It is Flinders who has credited Grant with the discovery of the coast of Victoria “as far as Cape Schanck,” and Flinders was most competent to judge as to whom the honour should belong. On the great seaman’s chart published in 1814 (Terra Australis, by M. Flinders, South Coast, Sheet 5) is inscribed, “Coast as far as Cape Schanck discovered by Captain James Grant, 1800,” in which track, of course, is included the entrance to Port Phillip, although Flinders knew that Grant had not penetrated to the bay itself.
Grant sailed from Sydney in the Anna Josepha, Captain Maclean, an old Spanish brig, belonging to Mr. Simeon Lord. She had been taken off the coast of Peru by the Betsy whaler, and on her arrival at Sydney was renamed Anna Josepha in honour of the Governor’s wife. Loaded with coals and spars, the ship left Port Jackson for the Cape of Good Hope on November 9th, 1801. She steered southward of New Zealand, made Cape Horn, and then sailed to the Falklands. Grant quitted her when she reached Tristan D’Acunha and obtained a passage in the Ocean as far as Table Bay. There he shipped on April 12th, 1802, in H.M.S. Imperieuse for England, where he arrived safely, and, in due course, reported himself to the Admiralty.
Three years later he obtained his rank of Commander on January 12th, 1805, with a pension for gallantry in a spirited action off Holland, when in command of the Hawke cutter he was badly wounded. He subsequently commanded the Raven and Thracian and died at St. Servan in 1833, aged 61.
CHAPTER 4.
MURRAY APPOINTED COMMANDER OF THE LADY NELSON: HIS VOYAGE TO NORFOLK ISLAND.
On Grant’s resigning the command of the Lady Nelson, Governor King appointed John Murray to succeed him. As has been told Murray had formerly been Master’s mate of the Porpoise and had accompanied Grant when he went for the second time to try and explore Governor King’s Bay, and the Governor apparently thought him a capable officer. His appointment is dated September 3rd, 1801, so that he seems to have taken over the new post about two months before his predecessor finally left Sydney.
When, however, the Lady Nelson sailed to the Hawkesbury in September to load the settlers’ grain and to bring it to Sydney, Grant appears to have been still on board her, as he was enjoined to ensure her safety at that place by Governor King. “You are not to leave the vessel yourself or suffer any other person to leave her while in the river nor let any strangers or visitors go on board…Your board netting is to be kept up while in the river.” King evidently was determined to guard against the capture of the brig by runaway convicts, a fate which had overtaken the Norfolk. Murray succeeded to the command of the brig on her return from this Hawkesbury trip. His first voyage was to Norfolk Island, when he carried orders and instructions from the Governor of New South Wales to Major Foveaux, the Lieutenant-Governor. Before leaving Sydney, Captain Abbott, Ensign Piper and Mr. John Roberts (surgeon’s mate) were embarked as passengers on board the Lady Nelson, and in the afternoon of October 1st she set sail for her destination. The following account of her voyage is extracted from the log:–
H.M.A. SURVEYING VESSEL LADY NELSON.
From Port Jackson to Norfolk Island.
“October 2nd, 1801. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and stood out of ye Heads. Observed ye Porpoise to be in the offing. At 5 P.M. passed under the stern of the Porpoise and Mr. Murray went on board and waited on ye Commander of that vessel. At 6 Lieutenant Murray returned on board, hoisted in our gig and gave the Porpoise three cheers, which was returned–made sail at half-past 6 P.M.–ye North Head of Port Jackson bore to west by north distant 6 miles, the South Head of Broken Bay bore north by west distance 6 leagues.
“Saturday, October 3rd. Fresh winds and clear. About half-past 4 P.M. the wind shifted to north-west with light rain and thunder and lightning. At 8 A.M. the wind rather took off and we had clear weather, but with a very heavy sea on. At noon we had a strong gale with a high sea on, our Latitude 33 degrees 55 minutes south.
“Sunday, October 4th. Strong gale with heavy squalls at intervals with a very high sea running. Very heavy squall attended with thunder and lightning, large hail stones at ye same time. At 10 A.M. Mustered ye Ship’s Company and read the articles of war being the first Sunday of ye month.
“Monday, October 5th. Fresh breezes and heavy squalls with flying showers of rain and heavy sea running. At 4 P.M. saw Lord Howe Island bearing north-east distant 16 or 17 leagues. At 10 P.M. when it cleared saw Balls Pyramid bearing north by west distant 6 or 9 miles: at 12 had another sight of it on our larboard quarter–at daylight again saw the Pyramid distant 10 or 12 leagues…At noon lost sight of Island.
“Tuesday, October 6th. Fresh breezes and clear–squally. At noon light airs.
“Wednesday, October 7th. Light airs and inclinable to calm.
“Thursday, 8th October. Fresh wind and clear high sea. Keeping good look out for Island of Norfolk. At 4 A.M. made sail–at 6 A.M. saw Norfolk and Phillip Islands distant 12 leagues–at noon, being 9 or 10 miles off ye town, fired a gun and hoisted signal for pilot.
“Friday, 9th October. Moderate weather–at half-past 2 P.M. fired a 2nd gun for pilot–at half-past 3 seeing no boat and judging of the appearance of the sea there was no landing at Sydney Bay,* (* Sydney, Norfolk Island.) bore on for Cascade, and by 5 got in sight of ye Storehouse–fired another gun–at 7 P.M. John Drumond, pilot, came on board, took charge as pilot–sent our boatswain’s mate on shore in pilot’s boat with letter to Lieutenant Governor–kept standing off all night–at daylight the Storehouse distant 3 miles–at 6 A.M. landed Captain E. Abbott, Ensign Piper and Mr. John Roberts–at 9 A.M. boat returned bringing with them ye pilot’s assistant who told us ye landing was good at Sydney–bore up for Sydney. By 11 got round and a boat coming off we discharged a number of articles into her belonging to the different officers. At noon they went on shore.
“Saturday, 10th October. Observed the flag for indifferent landing–hove up, put ye vessel under snug sail and stood off and on during night–at 4 P.M. Phillip’s Island bore north distant 6 miles. A boat came along, into which we delivered a part of the officers’ baggage.
“Sunday, 11th October. Moderate winds and weather–a confused sea. P.M. A boat came off–sent in her ye officers’ baggage–at 6 P.M. the weather looking rather unfavourable ran the vessel into Hunsons Bay–stood off and on during night–at daylight went round to Sydney Harbour.
“Monday, 12th October. Variable winds, fine weather. P.M. a 2nd boat came with Ensign Baillie’s baggage. Stood off and on during night–in the morning went into Sydney Bay–a boat came off with Mr. Baillie’s baggage, also received for boat 4 rough spars for sweeps.
“Tuesday, 13th October. Standing off and on Cascade Bay–at 4 the vessel’s signal for a boat was made from ye shore–lowered down our gig and sent the boatswain on shore in her. In a little time he returned and informed me it was the Lieutenant-Governor’s orders that I should stand to sea and await boat–made all sail and stood to sea till sundown, when seeing no signs of a boat made sail for ye island. Saw a large ship in the offing, she proved to be the Earl Cornwallis from Sydney.
“Wednesday, 14th October. A.M. Seeing no signs of a boat went around to Sydney Bay and observed Cornwallis lying to off Northern Island.
“Thursday, 15th October. At 5 P.M. Ensign Bayley embarked on boat and the boat brought remainder of his baggage–all the other passengers came on board–discharged the pilot. At 6 made sail–at 7 P.M. Mount Pitt bore north-east by east distant 4 leagues–at sundown ye Earl Cornwallis out of sight.
“Friday, 16th October. Fresh gales–cloudy and rain–a high sea running–strong gales. The vessel laboured a great deal.
…
“Tuesday, 27th October. Fresh winds and hazy–at 2 A.M. saw land north-west 10 or 11 miles–at 8 A.M. south head of Broken Bay bore to north-west 6 miles–at noon fine–got within Heads and made all sail.
“JOHN MURRAY,
“Commander.”
On his return to Sydney on the completion of the voyage Murray was ordered by Governor King to proceed in the Lady Nelson and finish the exploration of the south coast, which Grant had not been able to complete. The instructions issued by Governor King were very precise.
“You will proceed without loss of time to Basses Straights and observe the following directions for prosecuting discoveries in those straights on the south-west coast of this country…When you are between Ram Head and Western Port you will proceed to Kent’s Group and ascertain the size of those islands (particularly the easternmost)…From Kent’s Group you will run on a straight course to Wilson’s Promontory noticing the course and distance, soundings and quality of the bottom…From Wilson’s Promontory you will trace the coast between Point Schanck and Cape Albany Otway…From thence you will run to Harbinger Rock lying off the north-west point of King’s Island…You will make the circuit of that island or islands in addition to the King’s instructions respecting new discoveries…You will carefully examine…all within 6 miles round the island to ascertain whether a vessel may anchor. Having completed the survey…you will ascertain the time of bearing…between the south westernmost point and Albatross Islands, the northernmost of Hunter’s Islands and the Pyramid. Having completed…your survey thus far you will ascertain to what distance soundings may be got to the westward of the Norfolk’s and Lady Nelson’s passages taking care to traverse across to the latitude of 42 degrees on the south side and within sight of land on the north side or coast of New Holland (Van Dieman’s Land) until between 38 and 42 degrees…As you stand in on the New Holland side you will examine the coast between Cape Albany Otway and Cape Solicitor which Lieutenant Grant named Portland Bay the bottom of which he did not see. Should you have time I would wish you to run due south from Cape Solicitor as far as 40 degrees and work back again to Cape Bridgewater…you will employ another month…in tracing the coast from Cape Banks…In returning to this port you will deliver all such journals and charts as may have been completed…during your intended voyage.
“Should you fall in with H.M.S. Investigator you will communicate these instructions to the Commander…and put yourself under his command. And in case you fall in and are come up with by the Naturaliste and Geographe, French vessels on discovery, you will produce your passport from His Grace the Duke of Portland to the Commander of that expedition.
“PHILIP GIDLEY KING.
“SYDNEY, October 31st, 1801.”
CHAPTER 5.
MURRAY’S EXPLORATION OF BASS STRAIT.
The Lady Nelson set forth from Sydney on her mission on November 12th, 1801. Obeying Governor King’s orders, Murray steered first towards the Kent Group.* (* The Kent Group was discovered by Lieutenant Matthew Flinders in the Francis, and named by him in honour of Captain William Kent of H.M.S. Supply. The group was subsequently visited by Mr. Rushworth and other sailors.) His log shows how he mistook other islands, probably the Sisters* (* The Sisters Islands were so named by Captain Furneaux in 1773 from the resemblance they bore to each other. Peron calls them two small islands escarpes.) at the northern extremity of the Furneaux Group, for his place of destination and how, when 25 miles to the northward of Cape Barren, on seeing smoke rising from an island, he sent a boat ashore and found living there two men, a woman and a child, the men, Chase and Beven, being sealers in the employ of Messrs. Kable & Underwood, of Sydney. The Lady Nelson was then brought to and moored in Diana Bay, a well-known anchorage in Furneaux Islands.
Murray, at this time, seems to have been much farther southward than Governor King intended him to go, for the island which he writes of as Grand Capshine was undoubtedly the Grand Capuchin, the largest island of the Furneaux Group, now known as Flinders Island.* (* Named Flinders Island by Captain Flinders in honour of his brother, Lieutenant Samuel Flinders, R.N.)
Diana Bay, the bay in which the Lady Nelson stayed for some days, was formed by the shores of the Grand Capuchin and Storehouse and Cat Islands, the last named islands being the Babel Islands of Flinders. In very early days this bay was much frequented by sealing vessels and in 1801 gained its name from the ship Diana, a small vessel belonging to Messrs. Kable & Underwood, of Sydney, which afterwards stranded on the Grand Capuchin and which had a curious history. A French schooner named L’Entreprise of Bordeaux, under the command of Captain Le Corre, last from the Isle of France, while sealing in these waters was also wrecked about a year later off one of the Sisters, 30 miles to the northward of where the Diana went ashore. Le Corre and two-thirds of his crew perished. The supercargo whose name, according to Peron, was Coxwell, but which the Sydney Gazette prints as Coggeshall, was among the saved and was brought with the other rescued men to Sydney. Coggeshall returned with Mr. Underwood to endeavour to save the hull of the vessel, and though they failed to float L’Entreprise, they were more successful as regards the Diana which was repaired and renamed the Surprise, the name by which the lost French schooner had been known by the English from Governor King downwards. In order to pay expenses she was put up to public auction in Sydney and purchased by one of the officers of L’Entreprise for 117 guineas, but was afterwards resold to her original owners, Messrs. Kable & Underwood.* (* See Sydney Gazettes, March 12th and March 19th, 1803.)
Murray did not name the Grand Capuchin, for it was so called before the time of his visit. Nor did Flinders or Bass give it that name, which was probably derived from the cowled peak of a mountain on it, one of three christened by Flinders the Patriarchs, combined with the fact that Furneaux had already named some black rocky islands that lay off the entrance to Storm Bay Passage, The Friars.* (* The Boreels Eylander of Tasman.) It seems likely that Barrallier in the Lady Nelson’s previous voyage or some French sailor bestowed the name Capuchin upon Flinders Island, and Murray wrote it on his chart, although it was afterwards erased from the maps and replaced at first by the name of Great Island and later by that of Flinders Island.* (* The Sydney Gazette of March 31st, 1831, in giving the names of the Furneaux Group transfers the name to Babel Islands, i.e. “Babel Islands or Capisheens as called by the sealers,” but, as Murray’s Chart, page 146, and Sydney Gazettes of an earlier period will show, at first Flinders Island alone was called Capuchin.)
Leaving Diana Bay on November 25th Murray saw the easternmost members of the Kent Group and steered through the passage which separates the principal islands and which was named in his honour, Murray’s Passage. Flinders had passed through the same passage, when he discovered the group, in the Francis in 1798, and named a rock to the south of it the Judgment Rock “from its resemblance to an elevated seat.”* (* The Australian Sailing Directory, Admiralty.)
After surveying the Kent Group, Murray started to carry out his survey of Western Port and Port Phillip. On December 5th he sighted Sir Roger Curtis’s Island and on the 7th reached Western Port where he was detained by bad weather until the first week in January. On January 5th* (* The logbooks were kept in nautical fashion, the day beginning at noon before the civil reckoning, so that Port Phillip was really discovered on the afternoon of Monday, January 4th, 1802. According to the Admiralty librarian the change from nautical to civil reckoning in the logs did not take place until 1805.) as the vessel ran along the Victorian coast towards Port Phillip dense smoke from native fires hid the land from view. At 3 P.M. the smoke had cleared away and Bowen, who was at the masthead, espied an opening in the land ahead which “had the appearance of a harbour.” Keeping close in for it Murray saw inside a fine smooth sheet of water. An island lay at the entrance but the waves were breaking high on the rocks so the brig was hauled off and taken out to sea. Murray then steered to King Island deciding to return again later to explore the newly discovered harbour. He surveyed the east coast of King Island from Cape Farewell to Seal Bay. Some sea elephants were lying on the beach of the bay that he first entered, and this was named Sea Elephant Bay.* (* Murray’s survey of King Island was an important one and Governor King refers to it as “giving to the British priority of discovery over the French ships” when eleven months afterwards Baudin came to the island.) The following pages describe Murray’s exploration of King Island and of his first sight of Port Phillip.
MURRAY’S LOG.
H.M.A. SURVEYING VESSEL LADY NELSON ON DISCOVERY. LIEUTENANT-COMMANDER JOHN MURRAY.
Sydney Cove to Bass Strait.
“Thursday, 12th November 1801. Working out of ye Heads at 1 P.M.–at 2 P.M. ye South Head of Port Jackson bore north-north-west 11 miles. At 4 P.M. ye weather began to look squally and black from ye south-west with now and then lightning…At 5 it thundered and the lightning increased…During night fresh winds and a heavy sea up; in the morning no land in sight.
“Friday, 13th November. Fresh winds and clear with heavy tumbling sea…At sundown Mount Dromedary 9 or 10 leagues N.W.W. During night unsettled weather and a confused sea. At noon Cape How bore West distance 7 or 8 leagues.
“Saturday, 14th November. Light airs inclinable to calm, a very heavy sea from south-west. At sundown Cape How bore north-west distant about 7 leagues…We hauled in for the land this morning, the Longitude by Governor King’s timekeeper was 149 degrees 30 minutes 45 seconds east, Latitude by anticipation 38 degrees 00 minutes 00 seconds south. At noon calm fine weather. Latitude observed 38 degrees 06 minutes 43 seconds south.
“Sunday, 15th November. Moderate fine weather and smooth water…At 9 A.M. we had a curious squall at every point of the compass, it did not blow very hard and seemed to settle in the south-east quarter.
“Monday, 16th November. At half-past 5 P.M. saw a thunder squall rising in western quarter. The squall passed over the land and thundered a good deal with much lightning, at half-past 7 it took a north-west turn and at 8 P.M. passed over our heads, though with no great deal of wind…In the morning made sail…Latitude 38 degrees 32 minutes south.
“Thursday, 19th November. Moderate and hazy. At 6 A.M. saw Kent’s Group bearing south-west distances 8 or 9 leagues–their appearance was like a great number of small islands being nearly south-east and north-west; at 8 A.M. the easternmost island of Kent’s Group and the largest bore south-south-west distance 7 or 8 leagues. At 9 A.M. the whole chain of islands, 13 in number, bore from south by west to west the large island as above.
“Friday, 20th November. Light variable winds and fine weather. Kept working up to the land but were surprised to find that instead of being a small group of islands, ye body of the land was very large and whatever appeared as islands began to connect itself into one island, the latitude not agreeing with Lieutenant Flinders, concluded it could not be Kent’s Group. Kept working up to it and by daylight was within 5 miles of ye northernmost island, passed close to it and seeing an immense number of birds on it sent the boat on shore to procure some; in a short time after this I saw a smoke arise from the small island just passed, sent ye boat and ye first mate there where they found two men, one woman and a child, of Henry Kable’s employ; assisted them as well as we could–by noon worked into a good harbour and moored between Storehouse and Cat Island–got the Latitude by going on shore 39 degrees 57 minutes 46 seconds south. When moored, the Grand Capshine bore west-north-west distant 1/2 mile–Cat Island bore north by east 1/4 mile and Storehouse Island south-east quarter of a mile. Cape Barren the east point south 1/2 east distant 25 miles.
“Saturday, 21st November. Employed taking on stone for ballast. Carpenter fitting places for sweeps to row in and on the longboat. P.M. Broke Farmer Barnes for contempt and disobedience of orders. Rated Robert Warren boatswain’s mate in his room. A.M. Sent the first mate and a party of hands (with one of the people found here) and some dogs to get kangaroo being informed that great plenty was to be found in the country.
“Sunday, 22nd November. The first officer and his party returned on board; they shot 2 wambucks,* (* Presumably wombats.) a kangaroo, a porcupine, a swan and some birds–in the evening sent the second mate and some hands on shore to get mutton-birds, and eggs. On account of the great plenty of fresh provisions served no salt meat this day. I went and measured a base line from the south end of Storehouse Island due East and West 2 miles to a point on ye Grand Capshine and from thence surveyed this harbour more for the sake of practice than any use it could be, this place being well-known by the name Diana Bay.
“Monday, 23rd November. At 6 P.M. sent party on shore with the first mate to procure mutton-birds for officers and people. At 9 P.M. the officer and party returned on board, having got near 100 birds and some eggs. As I was at supper, I received the following note from R.B. Wood my clerk:
“‘SIR,–Under the unfortunate situation in which I am placed as a prisoner and a convict it may appear strange my presumption in observing that something serious I wish to communicate to you. Pardon me saying that secrecy is requisite–and that after you have supped and alone will be best. I am, Sir, Your humble servant,
“‘R.B. WOOD.’
“On receiving this, a little time after, I sent for him and he informed me that he had seen Mark Clark, soldier, and Robert Warren, who was only two days ago rated boatswain’s mate, pumping off spirits from a cask in the hold; that he suspected this business had been carried on for some time and believed more than those might be concerned. In addition John Johnston, cabin servant, informed me that he had seen a number of the people at different times half drunk when on their watch below; in consequence of these circumstances I turned the hands on deck and read the Articles of War to them, put Mark Clark, Robert Warren and Farmer Barnes in irons, he being drunk; and in the morning I hoisted on deck all the casks of spirits, overhauled them and found one with the bung just out and about 4 1/2 inches dry in it; nailed lead over the bung and tossed them below again. On questioning Clark on this affair he confessed that he and Warren had pumped spirits out of the cask last night, and George Yates informed me that Warren had made a practice of it for some time back. On investigating the matter closer it appeared that Barnes had nothing to do with it. I accordingly released Barnes and again rated him boatswain’s mate–turned the hands up and punished Robert Warren with four dozen lashes for robbery, drunkenness, etc., and Mark Clark with one dozen lashes only as it appeared that he had been prompted to this when drunk.
“Tuesday, 24th November. First and middle parts fine weather and mostly calm, latter hazy. Half-past 9 anchor and made sail out between the Grand Capshine and Cat Island, hoisted up our gig and stowe her. At 10 A.M. Cat Island bore south-east distant 5 miles and the peak of the Grand Capshine south-south-east distant 6 miles. At noon the Grand Capshine bore south-east distant 16 or 17 miles and the west end of ye Sisters west by south distant 8 or 9 miles. The harbour we have just left is formed by the Grand Capshine Island, Cat Island and Storehouse Island. Between the Grand Capshine and Cat Island is a narrow channel with deep water through which we came to-day–it lies about north-west by north a few hundred yards. Between Cat Island and Storehouse Island is a two-fathom channel, one-sixth of a mile broad through which Kable’s schooner has passed to the South. The harbour is very open and a good deal of sea heaves in, but small vessels can up anchor and just run round to the opposite side of Cat Island–there is a snug cove entirely secure from all southerly winds where they may anchor, taking care to be off from this last place, if the wind comes from the northward. From the Grand Capshine the land trends away in a south-east and south direction as far as Cape Barren; from where we lay the Bay of Shoals bore south by west distant 15 miles. A vessel of a large draught would have to lie a good deal further out in the Bay than we, as we rode in one quarter less than 3 fathoms.
“Wednesday, 25th November. Fresh breezes and hazy weather. At half-past 3 saw a single rock bearing south-south-west distance 9 or 10 miles, and an island on our beam south-east…haze very thick and scud flying thick. At 4 P.M. saw a rock lying to north of Kent’s Group about 3 miles…At half-past 4 saw easternmost island of Kent’s Group bearing west by south distance 8 miles, by half-past 5 P.M. having come nearly up with the land, passed in between the group and a rock that lies to the north and by 6 opened the Sound that passes through the Islands…As we approached the first cove saw a large part of the island on fire from which we conceived there might be people on shore–kept standing up the Sound and had furious gusts of wind at every point of the compass. We proceeded up with sails, sweeps and boat till we opened the second cove but found it impossible to get to anchorage in it as violent gusts constantly came down it. At 7 P.M. bore away for the cove on the west side and at half-past 7 P.M. came to anchor in 7 fathoms.
“Thursday, 26th November. Moderately fine weather in general. At 2 P.M. the officer and his
party returned on board having found no water–every part of the cove was overhauled and only rainwater could be found here, the rocks being strongly marked with the stream of water that will naturally fall from such a high land in heavy rain. From the mate’s finding a small quantity of Queyha rope in this cove, and seeing a dog dead on the beach, I fancy the Harrington must have been here, the dog being much like one of Mr. Cumming’s. In the afternoon I sent the first mate to the second cove on the east side to overhaul it for water, but on the strictest search they found nothing, but a brackish kind of spring…they however shot and caught three kangaroos.
“Friday, 27th November. Sounded the channel that divided this group right through…At the southernmost end lies a bank of 10 fathoms. As you approach the East Cove the water gradually shoals from 30 to 40 fathoms…and as you advance on West Cove the water suddenly falls from 30 to 16-14-12-10-8-7-6-5-4 and 3 fathoms, close to the beach the bottom consists of sand mixed with small shells and stones–the East Cove the same and small seaweed, the West Cove is strong, coarse sand and where we anchored quite covered with black kelp so much so that at first I was not clear but it might be rock…
“Saturday, 28th November. Measured a base line of 324 fathoms in length from one point of the cove we lay in to the other, it was measured with small line and every five fathoms of it was a chip of light wood in length 120 fathoms. We had the boats employed in this business; alternately anchored them till we got across to the southern end of the point of the cove; and as the water was smooth I fancy the length of base line to be correct. I then surveyed the eastern side of the Sound and Cove. Sent the first mate and some hands to the north-east cove to cut some of ye wood growing there…I sent the carpenter with him–overhauled our bread and found…some had got damp and mouldy, got it out from the rest, but owing to the bad weather could not air it on deck…
“Sunday, 29th November. Hard gales and gloomy weather throughout with a swell heaving in through the northern entrance of ye sound. P.M. The first mate returned on board having cut down two spars…The party with the dog caught two large and 3 small kangaroos. At 8 P.M. as usual set a third watch with an officer. A.M. I went over to Harrington (or East) Cove,* (* Named after Captain Campbell’s ship the Harrington to whose presence in these waters Murray often refers.) measured a base line and surveyed the western side of this sound. I also overhauled every part of the Rocks all round the cove and without it examined every drain that I fell in with and although I saw at different parts of the under rocks and in holes perhaps enough water to keep a few men alive yet no quantity that could be much use to a ship’s company. In East Cove there is a good anchorage all over it for ships of any size, and they may exactly choose what water to be in from 3 fathoms close in to ye beach to 14 in ye mouth of it. I sounded every part of it and ye bottom is sand with small stones and shells much covered with black seaweed that might at first be thought to be rocks…West Cove is almost the same…East Cove is ye best to lie in as it entirely shuts in sea gates and moreover has little ground swell to which both other coves are subject. With respect to the tide in the coves little can be perceived, the perpendicular rise at full moon may be 10 or 11 feet, with us it sometimes was 8 or 9 feet, and that in ye course of ye hour…At all times it is imprudent to carry sail on a boat in this sound; the puffs come so violent that before anybody could take in her sail she would to a certainty be overset; even ships, in my opinion, would do well before they enter this sound to take in all their small sails and keep all hands at the braces fore and aft as well as hands by the top-sail halyards, and it is necessary to handle the yards quick otherwise a large vessel will be sure to rub sides with ye rocks if it has blown fresh outside all day…The kangaroo seems to be most plentiful at this time in the north-eastern cove owing, I fancy, to their being less disturbed there than in the other coves, but with good dogs and a little trouble they may be had on the hills in the vicinity of either cove. Wood is plentiful and no trouble in getting it.
“Monday, 30th November. Hard gales, hazy weather with rain throughout. The soil throughout this sound is nothing but sand a good way up the hills and after that you chiefly find rocks with here and there a shott of grass. The hills are covered very thick with brushwood, a great part of which is decayed and rotten and renders it a business of labour to ascend any of them. They are also very high–we have seen nothing new on them. A few parrots are to be seen and now and then a snake of a large size, these with kangaroos, gulls, redbills, form the inhabitants of these islands, sometimes a seal comes in shore but very seldom and with much care.
“Thursday, 3rd December. Warped a little way out and finding could get no more of the warp sent hands in the gig to stand by…she drove and we were obliged to let go small bower again. At this time wind increased to a gale…P.M. Got altitudes for Governor King’s chronometer. A.M. Sent the first mate and a party to get kangaroos to the opposite or west side of the land from the cove we lay in and for fresh water.
“Friday, 4th December. At sundown party returned–reported no fresh water to be found on that side of island, got 3 kangaroos, some shell-fish, and knocked down 2 seals. A.M. Hove up our B.B.* (* Best bower, that is the starboard bower.) At 11 weighed and made sail through sound, at quarter past 11 clear through, strong wind at east. Got sight of rock laying off this island. At noon bore up to survey small island.
“Saturday, 5th December. Strong winds, hazy. At 1 P.M. hove to…At 3 P.M. body of Kent’s Group bore east by south distance 15 or 16 miles. At half-past 4 the five Seal Islands bore north-north-east distance 8 or 9 miles…Saw Sir R. Curtis’s Island west by south 10 miles. At 7 P.M. saw Wilson’s Promontory bearing west-north-west 13 or 14 miles…Stood on till 9 P.M. when it being thick and almost calm hauled close to ye wind off and on…At 4 A.M. the Promontory bore west 7 or 8 miles. Made all sail at 8 A.M. rounded and intending to run between the mainland and ye islands having a fine breeze was surprised to lose all ye wind in an instant as we stood in under ye land–although we were not less than 3 or 4 miles from ye mainland it fell calm…Put the helm a starboard, put sweeps on her, and pulled her out into ye wind again…At 10 A.M. passed a remarkable rock with a hole in it. Latitude 39 degrees 10 minutes 0 seconds south.
“Sunday, 6th December. At 3 P.M. saw Cape Liptrap bearing north-north-west distance 6 or 7 miles…Stood in round Phillip Island and by 8 A.M. got close up with Grant’s Point and Seal Island.
“Monday, 7th December. At 5 P.M. a breeze sprung up at south-west. Stood in for the entrance with all sail and the sweeps. At 6 P.M. gained entrance and passed between Grant’s Point and Seal Island which island seemed as full of seals as when we were last there, a circumstance that almost made me conclude that neither the Harrington or Mr. Rushford* (* Presumably Mr. Rushworth.) had been here. Kept standing up the harbour with a south-west wind, at 7 came to anchor in Elizabeth’s Cove in 6 fathoms water with the small bower; lowered down the gig and I went on shore to observe if any signs of strangers were to be seen. Saw nothing to make me think the cove had been visited since we left in May last, in short the only difference was that the land appeared in a higher state of verdure now than it was at that time. At 4 A.M. out launch and sent the first officer and five armed men to the river for fresh water…at 10 A.M. stood further up the harbour.
“Tuesday, 8th December. At 4 P.M. came to an anchor off Lady Nelson’s Point and I went on shore and shot a few birds. At 2 P.M. came on board; up anchor and ran over into 2 fathoms water as near the mouth of river as possible. A.M. I went in the gig to Churchill’s Island and there found everything as we left it–I mean the remains of our fires and huts; the wheat and corn that Lieutenant Grant had sown in April last was in full vigour, 6 ft. high and almost ripe–the onions also were grown into seed; the potatoes have disappeared–I fancy that the different animals that inhabit the island must have eaten or otherwise destroyed them. I regret not having time or men to spare to clear a large spot and sow the wheat already grown, as the next crop would be large. I never saw finer wheat or corn in my life, the straw being very near as large as young sugar-cane.
“Wednesday, 9th December. At 1 P.M. the first officer in the launch returned on board with a load of water; on his examining the river he reported that everything seemed the same as when we left it–a strong presumption that no vessel had been there, as naturally they would have replaced their water. The river has been flooded since last April, as a temporary hut we built was found with part of the bank washed away; the banks of the river were found all in a high state of verdure and in many places the view is truly romantic and wild. No signs of native canoes or huts have been discovered, indeed, there is less appearance of natives now than when we were here last; for then many remains of huts, part of a canoe and their beaten tracks were to be found on all parts of the banks of this little river, all of which have vanished. The party caught and shot 5 pairs of swans, out of which 3 pairs were young, and brought on board alive, the others were old and we made some fresh meals from them; they also brought on board a pair of young geese which however are very scarce, but few parrots–the ducks are as shy as ever…At 3 P.M. sent the second mate to Churchill’s Island to cut down the wheat on purpose to feed the young swans with it, at sundown they returned on board with it in the whole perhaps a bushel in quantity with a good deal mixed with oats and barley all fine of their kind–some potatoes were also found and 2 onions. At 8 A.M. the launch returned with a load of water, the officer reported that George Yates had gone to sleep on watch, left the launch deep loaded in imminent danger of being swamped as the tide rose, and moreover the whole boat’s crew in danger of being surprised by natives if any should be about, for which crimes I punished him with two dozen lashes this being an old offence of his–I pardoned him three different times some time back for sleeping on his watch at Sydney…
“Friday, 11th December. The very favourable weather we have had since our arrival here is to be thanked for enabling us to so soon fill our water as I expected this business would have detained me 9 or 10 days. At noon ran over to Lady Nelson’s Point and there anchored in the mouth of Salt Water Lagoon–7 fathoms.
“Saturday, 12th December. Sent the first mate up Salt Water Lagoon to get swans; he, however, found none but in afternoon and evening shot two large ones at Lady Nelson’s Point. P.M. Having discovered that Robert Warren had laid an infamous plan to get the first mate, Mr. Bowen, broke and otherwise disgraced by acquainting me and all the company belonging to the vessel that he was a notorious thief and embezzler of King’s stores, I, upon the fullest and clearest investigation of the matter, finding it to be a most diabolical falsehood put Warren in double irons intending to deliver him up to the rigour of the civil law on our arrival at Sydney should a speedier way of sending him not occur during the cruise. A.M. Sent the first mate to the north-west Branch in the gig to look for water swans and birds.
“Sunday, 13th December. At 8 A.M. the first mate returned in the gig having shot 9 large and small swans, the large ones when fit for use weighed 8 and 9 pounds each. At sunset native fires on ye distant hills.
“Monday, 14th December. Sent the first mate and party in a launch to overhaul the back of Tortoise Point.
“Tuesday, 15th December. A.M. Hove up and ran over into Elizabeth’s Cove where we anchored. Sent first mate and boat’s crew down to Seal Island to procure some skins…
“Wednesday, 16th December. I walked along the beach 6 or 7 miles, but saw no signs of any strangers being here since we left this place.
“At 4 P.M. I returned on board, the launch also came on board, they knocked down a few seals but there was too much surf, in consequence the officer returned, he reported that no person could have visited that island since we left this harbour as the seals were as plentiful as ever and several thousand pups lying on shore. As it continued calm all night, and seeing we could proceed to sea this day; I again sent him with a party to Seal Island to get some of the skins both as specimens for Government and for our own uses as several of the people were without hats or shoes…Served out fishing line and 4 hooks to each mess, the crew of the launch having yesterday caught several rock fish at Grant’s Point.
“Thursday, 17th December. Making ready for sea. Observed that for these several days past the native fires had advanced nearer to us, and this day saw one fire that could be no more than 4 or 5 miles inland.
“Friday, 18th December. At 2 P.M. the first mate and party returned from Seal Island with some skins which run very small…This time the officer found remains of fires and a number of bamboo pegs, also a club. The Harrington must have been here, but where she could have lain at anchor we could not discover; if any place along this beach, it is curious that not the least signs of her are to be found–as I walked down from one end almost to the other. P.M. I sent Bond and Missing, two soldiers, to cut some more wood, doing which they were fortunate enough to discover a spring of water…I went on shore and found on clearing it with our hands that at once we got 100 gallons of very good water…In the morning a spring was found that proved equal to the watering in a few days a line of battleships. Pleased with this circumstance took a gang of hands on shore and made a good road to it, we also cleared the spring of all the dirt, roots and boughs of fallen and decayed trees that had got into it…we bailed out of it at least 2 or 3 tons of water and found the bottom to be a rock of very large stones collected together…in half an hour after it was entirely empty it was again quite full of clear good water. We now filled all our empty casks and everything on board that would hold water intending to go to sea when the wind would permit. As in this cove wood is in plenty, and the water is not above 50 yards from the seaside; a vessel of any size may be wooded and watered in two or three days and ride secure from all wind either close in or further out. It is the best place in the harbour for any vessel to lay in whether her stay is short or long…The soil of this island as far as we have penetrated is very sandy; no black mould is seen, the trees are very small and very decayed, nor does the small shrubbery grow with much vigour although pleasing to the eye; in short this cove and island can supply a ship in abundance with what is generally considered the greatest of her wants yet I fancy it would poorly pay a settler. To-day we saw a fire which I fancy could not have been more than 4 miles from Tortoise Point and perhaps 7 from the vessel.
“Saturday, 19th December. Finished the pathway to watering-place, having made it level and fit
to roll butts on. At 5 P.M. saw a large fire lighted on the opposite beach nearer the entrance of the harbour, it might be 6 or 7 miles from the vessel, and in a little time it was left, and nearer to us, at a little distance from the beach, another very large fire was made. Expecting from this that in the morning I should be able to speak to them I made a large fire abreast of where we lay, the natives could not miss seeing it. In the morning no fires were to be seen which was rather odd, as besides this nearest fire, last night there were several others in sight…A.M. I got a large board hung up at the entrance of the road to the well or spring on which was painted, in oil colours, directions for any stranger how to get to the watering-place…
“Friday, 25th December. At noon suddenly taken with most violent squall at West…this hurricane of wind increased so rapidly and with such fury that we were obliged to let go the best bower and till all 3 anchors bore the strain she dragged a little, struck top-gallant-mast. This squall continued for 4 hours, then settled into a westerly gale with constant thunder and lightning and at intervals very hard rain and also more sea than I supposed possible in this cove. At 11 P.M. parted our warp, my uneasiness at this was not a little however the S.B.* (* Small bower, that is the port bower.) a little relieved by best bower held on at night…
“Saturday, 26th December. From noon till 3 P.M. the gale continued to increase and a sea got up still higher than it had yet been at any time since the gale began…Made all as snug as possible for riding out the gale, the hardest by far I ever saw in this country, and as it blew dead on the shore outside nothing less than the greatest providence could have saved us had we got to sea either of the times I attempted it. At half-past 6 P.M. a lull with the appearance of good weather…7 P.M. the weather looking very bad, made a run for Lady Nelson’s Point, the gale following us as hard as ever, at half-past 9 came to an anchor off Lady Nelson’s Point–at noon gale continued, however, we felt little here as we lay right under the land.
“Sunday, 27th December. Between hours of 12 and 2 A.M. having caught Henry Willis and John
Missing asleep in their watch, put both in irons.. 8 A.M. vessel drove…she tailed in on a
mudbank, which obliged us to weight the best bower and with the long boat lay it ahead to heave her off. At noon hove into 1/2 2 fathoms.
“Monday, 28th December. Wind at south-west at 3 P.M…up anchor and ran to leeward of Lady Nelson’s Point.
“Tuesday, 29th December. Winds at south-west. Shifted to north-west and freshened into a gale with cloudy weather: thus has this kind of weather bound us here this last 12 days…Sent the first mate and a party to see and shoot some birds.
“Wednesday, 30th December. First part the wind veered to south-west and blew so hard that we were obliged to give her the long service of the cable although we lay under the land and not half a mile from it. No fires have been seen these last three or four days.
“Thursday, 21st December. First and middle parts fine weather–at 3 P.M. seeing a number of swans near Churchill’s Island, sent the First Mate in the boat to see and get some of them; he was lucky enough to catch six…Up anchor and run down into Elizabeth’s Cove. At half-past 6 P.M. came to an anchor in 7 fathoms. By half-past 7 P.M. got on board two or 300 gallons of water and some wood. The well was in fine order, overflowed and water clear. We here discovered another spring the banks of which were covered with water-cresses and wild blackberries, got some of both on board. I had intended going inland on the island some way, this was baffled by a strong wind coming from west-north-west which threw the sea into the cove–not at all pleasant. I therefore up anchor and again ran up under Lady Nelson’s Point.
“Friday, 1st January 1802. All this 24 hours it has been blowing a hard gale…The New Year was ushered in with us splicing the main brace and three cheers; by the weather with a black squall of wind and rain. Released Robert Warren.
“Saturday, 2nd January. Strong gales with hard squalls, later cloudy. New slung our two Nun buoys; sent officer and some hands to cut wood. Observed fire a long way off in north-east Branch.
“Sunday, January 3rd. P.M. Sent the 1st Mate with 4 hands in launch to the River to try for some birds.
“Monday, 4th January. Variable weather. At 2 P.M. the launch returned. We have got at last some knowledge of the natives of this part of the country. The following is the substance of the report of Mr. Bowen, 1st Mate:–
“At 7 A.M. left the head of Fresh Water River having in vain looked for some of the crowned birds, and having been able to shoot nothing (a few ducks excepted), having proceeded down the river, and being nearly half-way on board he observed a fire lighted on the beach between Crownhead and the entrance of the River and thinking it could be nothing but natives he immediately put back to prove this. As the boat approached the beach these blacks were perceived sitting in the same form as those of Sydney, and each of them had a bundle of spears in their hands. Our people hallowed them which they instantly answered and did not seem at all alarmed on the nearer approach of the boat, three boys made their appearance. As between the beach and the boat there lay a bank of mud about 200 yards across, Mr. Bowen could not get quite so close as he could wish, however, he singly got out and began to walk towards them, which when they perceived, they jumped upon their feet and it was now perceived that one of them was a very old man with a large bushy beard and the rest of his face besmeared with red ochre. The others were young men. They were all clothed with the skins of oppossums as far as their middle, and this old man seemed to have command over the others. As Mr. Bowen advanced they all pulled off their dress and made signs to the officer that before he came any nearer he must do the same; this was immediately complied with.
“They then all sat down again and Mr. Bowen, plucking a root of fern, advanced pretty close to them holding it up; they seemed to understand it as it was meant. When he got within a few yards of this party the old man seemed rather uneasy and began to handle his spears. Mr. Bowen then threw them a tomahawk, and one of the young men picked it up; on Mr. Bowen beckoning them to sit down, he doing the same, they again threw him back the tomahawk, and all except the old man sat down. Mr. Bowen then broke a piece of stick and cut it with the tomahawk and tyed a handkerchief to it and again reached it to them; on this, one of the young men ventured to reach his hand and take it out of the officer’s but would by no means be so familiar as to shake hands. Mr. Bowen then ate some bread and then gave them some which they did not eat, but carefully laid it by under some fern roots or leaves; on getting some ducks they took no other notice of them than to examine in what manner they were killed, what their ideas on that head were we know not as they did not take the least notice of our firearms even when, towards the latter end of the parley, it was found necessary to point one at the breast of the old man who all along was very suspicious of our designs.
“All this time they expressed a good deal of wonder at the colour of Mr. Bowen’s skin, and one of the young men made very significant signs to him that he must have washed himself very hard. They now made signs for Mr. Bowen to go back to the boat and pointed down along the beach to Crown Head. Mr. Bowen accordingly went into the boat and pulled down as they walked, after pulling about 1 1/2 miles they stopped and beckoned for the boat to come in–here 3 women made their appearance each with a child at her back. Mr. Bowen went on shore here, little passed on either side further than on Mr. Bowen asking for fire to warm himself. They pointed to the boat and made signs for him to go there and get it the women sometimes shook their hands to him, and the boys laughing and hooping. A few more trifles were here given to them. A little before this all our people got out of the boat stark naked as was desired and walked somewhat near the natives, on which the old man sent the boys away to the women, and he, after having been in a great passion, made signs for us to go to the boat, began to retire with his face to us and brandishing his spear as that everyone thought he would heave it, when our people turned their backs the young men seemed more quiet. As we saw that all hope of further intercourse for the present was at an end Mr. Bowen ordered Bond to fire his piece over their heads in order to make good his retreat to the boat. This had the desired effect, as they one and all were out of sight in an instant. Before this they must have taken the musket for nothing but a stick. All the weapons they possessed were their spears (of a small size) and a stone tomahawk along with the wumera they throw with. With respect to their size the young men were much the same as those of Sydney or Jarvis Bay. They were not deficient in making out our signs, and we were easy able to understand from their motions what they would be at. From there being but little food for them on the beaches here, and their being clothed in the skins of the oppossums, I presume they are Bush natives, the women, I forgot to mention, appeared to be middling well shaped, and good-looking children, they were, however, always at some distance.
“Mr. Bowen and the people having joined the boat came on board. Observed all the remainder of the day they retired back into the woods and about 6 P.M. dous’d their fire at once although it must have covered an acre of ground. At 4 A.M. a light wind sprung up at east, got our kedge hove short, loosed sails and hove up–made sail for Elizabeth’s Cove…”
“Tuesday, 5th January. Winds from south-east to east with cloudy weather. At quarter past 1 P.M. Cape Shank bore north-east by north 9 miles. Kept running down along the land steering west and west by north in order to traverse the whole of this land, found it impossible to survey any part of the coast as yet from the numerous native fires which covered this low shore in one volume of smoke. At 3 P.M.* (* i.e. 3 P.M. on January 4th by the civil reckoning. See above note.) we saw ahead land bearing west-north-west distant 12 miles, and an opening in the land that had the appearance of a harbour north-west 10 or 12 miles, bore away for this last it having the appearance of fine steady weather…Accordingly kept standing down for this entrance which every minute from its appearance made us sure it was a good harbour.* (* The entrance to Port Phillip; Murray returned here January 30th.) At 5 P.M. saw a small island in the entrance and observed that between it and the main lay a reef…the 1st Mate and the the Boatswain’s Mate at the masthead looking out. At this time I suppose we were within 1 1/2 miles of the entrance…and I perceived that the sea broke short and was withal heavy–hove the lead and found only 10 fathoms water…Astonished at this, I hauled our wind and called out to them at the masthead to know if they saw any danger, but none was seen. I bore away and deepened into 11 fathoms when Mr. Bowen called out “Rocks ahead,” immediately hauled our wind and stood off…going often to the masthead I saw that the reef did nearly stretch across the whole way, but inside saw a sheet of smooth water of great extent. From the wind blowing dead on this shore, I was obliged to haul off to clear the land, but with a determination to overhaul it as no doubt it has a channel into it and is apparently a fine harbour of large extent. Kept pressing sail and by 8 P.M. the extremes of land bore from north-west to west distance 20 miles…the wind blew about as much as our vessel likes and I am convinced that no vessel would have done more–I wish I could say as much for her in light winds…At daylight the haze over the land at east, and east-north-east with a heavy sea. I did not like to bear down on a lee shore and so kept our wind stretching for the westernmost side of the bay…no part of this bay as yet has been surveyed owing to the sea, wind and the before-mentioned numerous fires of the natives, but as our courses and distance were all with a free wind till we hauled off…there will be no great mistake found in that part of this bay laid down. Till 8 P.M. from our run from Western Port the soil of all the land from abreast of Elizabeth’s Cove to Cape Shanks is excellent; after you round Cape Shanks and stand to west the land is invariably low and sandy with little hummocks here and there of grass and small bushes till you get down as far as this supposed harbour; on the opposite side the land gently rises a little for about 10 or 12 miles, seemingly good ground, it then sweeps away in a long bight of low land which we could just perceive at sundown…At noon saw the distant appearance of land on our larboard beam and from latitude observed 38 degrees 48 minutes 14 seconds, I take it to be somewhere near about Cape Shanks; bore away for Cape Albany Otway. Altitudes for Time-keeper one giving Longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 00 seconds and the second Longitude 144 degrees 35 minutes 45 seconds east. All these 24 hours sound ground from 45 to 33 fathoms. Sand mixed with shells and brown specks.
“Wednesday, 6th January. Kept running for Cape Albany and by 7 P.M. having nearly run into its latitude stood off and on during night. In the morning it was very hazy otherwise would have seen the land. At half-past 9 A.M. saw Cape Albany, bearing west-north-west 10 or 12 miles distance and Cape Danger north-west 16 or 17 miles; both these capes marked with white sandy front and middling high, all the land between is sandy hills and long sandy beach, as also what part of the land we saw stretching into Portland Bay. Ground invariably mixed with shells and brown specks, sometimes a little gravel, till the last time when we had 24 fathoms fine sand. At the time Cape Albany bore 26 or 27 miles. At noon hauled our wind for Harmingar Rock* (* Harbinger.) but owing to heavy sea and wind did not make better than south-east course–the vessel labouring and pitching a great deal.
“Thursday, 7th January. From noon till 5 P.M. strong winds at north-north-east and a confused heavy sea…This weather settled into hard gale at south-west by 7 a tumultuous sea up and we laboured much and lurched very heavy. At 6 A.M. it cleared–set sails, out all reefs intending to make Governor King’s Island while this clear weather continued; as it will be seen, unfavourable winds and weather has prevented me either tracing coast from Cape Shanks to Cape Albany, as after making Cape Albany from being able to run a straight course to Harminger Rock; both of these points will be attempted.
“Friday, 8th January. Altitude 145 degrees 07 minutes 15 seconds–this confirmed me that we must have been driven eastward.
“Saturday, 9th January. Saw the loom of the land from the masthead which I take to be Governor King’s Island–its southernmost point bore S.W.S. distant 16 miles. We could only see it now and then as the squalls passed over. Kept working to this land which I rather think is part of the same that on the 6th I saw and supposed it to be the northernmost cape, Cape Danger, and another Cape Albany. I…will in making circuit easily know them, both being sandy bluffs.
“Sunday, 10th January. Kept all night working up to land and by 7 A.M. got within 6 miles of the body of the island; kept edging down along it a 4 or 5 miles distance; the land in general high and covered with brush and now and then spots of large trees very tall. At 8 A.M. we saw two rocks we had passed at 7 A.M.–make out exactly like 2 boats under sail, they are both very near the land…As we kept running down along the land I saw a low point of rock make out with a good deal of surf and the land lay so far back that I concluded at least a deep bight must be there–this proved true, as we rounded it the swell of the sea which before was high greatly took off and although the wind blew hard yet as it was off shore…lowered the boat and sent Mr. Bowen and two good hands in her on shore…At half-past 11 the weather looking worse instead of better made a signal for our boat which they noticed and came off–by noon they got on board, and Mr. Bowen reported that wood and excellent water was in abundance, that safe anchorage and good ground was close into the beach–the soil is middling good, in short, it is an excellent place to take shelter in from all worst winds that blow in this country…Latitude of this bight is 40 degrees 00 minutes 09 seconds south and Longitude 143 degrees 57 minutes 45 seconds east.
“Monday, 11th January. Running along shore at a distance of 4 miles at 1 P.M. Saw a rock bearing west distant 10 miles and a low point north-north-west 9 or 10 miles–as we run down, this point still making out made us begin to think that we should here find a bay or harbour. By 2 P.M. we completely opened it and saw it was a bay of large extent and fine shelter…where we came to anchor. Found the tide of flood running to the Westward nearly done (4 P.M.)–the different parts of the bay bore as follows: Elephant Rock* (* (Note in log.) So named from resemblance to that animal.) north by east distant at 5 miles north part of the bay north 1/2 west distant 6 miles–the bottom of bay west-north-west 2 1/2 miles distant and the south point of ditto south-south-east, or 4 miles. I now went on shore, found a good deal of surf on the beach till we got on the southern side…here we landed and the first thing we saw was a number of sea elephants* (* The Phoca proboscidea of Peron.) of an immense size lying asleep on the beach, each of them, Barnes the boatswain’s mate told me, would make 8 or 9 barrels of oil; as we rowed down the shore we took them to be bluish rocks. We found along this beach two freshwater lagoons full of those animals which made it taste brackish…We could not get near the upper part of them on account of the number of elephants playing in them both. I named the bay Elephant Bay from this circumstance.
“Tuesday, 12th January. Boat returned on board, they caught 4 badgers and saw several kangaroos, but were not able to get any from the thickness of the brush–they also found feathers of emus and a dead one. Snakes are here, as the skin of one was found. We got several gallons of elephant oil out to-day as a specimen to Government and for our own use…some wood growing here reported different to any seen before…
“Wednesday, 13th January. Received some specimens of wood and some water. At half-past 10 up and run out of bay, hoisted in gig, running down shore; surveyed as well as weather would permit.
“Thursday, 14th January. Fair wind and cloudy. Running along shore 3 or 4 miles off and surveying it. At 4 P.M. having run as far as North-West Point, and seeing a number of breakers ahead, hove to. We could have done nothing by standing on in such weather. At 5 P.M. dropped kedge with the warp to see if that would ride her and found she would ride by it very well, furled sail and pointed yards. The land from Elephant Bay to here is rather low of sandy soil and a very long white sandy beach all this distance. The two sandy capes or rather bluffs are about 20 miles from Elephant Bay and are so remarkable that I think no person could be well mistaken in them. The course to Elephant Bay is nearly south-east by compass; no person need mistake the bay as Elephant Rock lies in the mouth of it about 3 miles from its north part. The bottom is sand gravel mixed with broken shells…At 7 A.M. got nearly as far as the second rocks and breakers, found a very high sea up. At this time saw an island bearing south-west by south. The island presents a bold rocky front to the sea and foul ground–breakers and rocks lie off from it a long way. Not less than 10 miles from here, on looking to the southward, a low island is seen and due south the furthest point of land–it appears altogether rather a dangerous place unless a vessel has a good breeze that can be depended on. A calm with such a current as we found here might chance to run her upon one rock or another…
“Friday, 15th January. Moderate fair weather. At 3 P.M. tacked in shore and at 4 P.M. shortened sail and stood off and on within 2 or 3 miles of the sand bluffs; lowered gig and sent the First Mate in her on shore to examine this part of the island, found the variation to be 8 degrees 54 minutes east. At half-past 6 P.M. the boat got on board. Mr. Bowen told me that there was a very high surf on the beach, that those bluffs were entirely sand, no shells were on the beach–inland he said the soil was good–he found no water here, some kangaroo were seen but could not be got at, the officer shot one but it got away; he said that on going up one of the trees he perceived inland a large sheet of water which he thinks must have some entrance into it from the other side of the island. I rather think it a lagoon or swamp, nevertheless we will give the other side of the island a strict search when wind and weather will permit us to go round.
“Saturday, 16th January. At quarter past 4 A.M. breeze from north-east, hazy weather and rain, stood in for Elephant Rock. At half-past 5 A.M. made sail down the coast of island to the southward, surveying it and sounding every half-hour…From 10 to 11 A.M. standing in for land. The weather at this time cleared a little and from the masthead a low point seemed to form a kind of entrance…into a deep bight or bay, a reef of rocks was also seen to the westward of it. Stood in pretty close along the edge of the reef and sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to overhaul the place. Observed the rocks of this reef to be full of seals, sea horses and elephants. The appearance of this place being favourable…stood further in and perceived it was a deep bay.
“Sunday, 17th January. At 1 P.M. came to anchor–the bottom coarse sand–from where we lay East point of land bore east-north-east distant 10 miles, the Seal Reef south by east 3 or 4 miles…we sounded every part of this place where a vessel would most likely anchor and found it 14 to 7 fathoms. At 2 P.M. Mr. Bowen came off, he brought on board 3 seals with hair of prime fur and told me there was a vast quantity on shore. Elephants are also in abundance and the woods full of kangaroo, emus, badgers, etc., some few shells were found, no water seen as yet. After dinner I went on shore: the brush is very thick which rendered it impossible to get any way in, there is little doubt of plenty of water being here as we in our search started 15 or 20 kangaroo from 30 to 40 pounds weight. An emu was caught by the dog about 50 pounds weight and surprising fat. At one place on this beach an acre of ground at least was covered with elephants of a most amazing size and several were all along the beach and playing in the water. At 7 P.M. I came on board. A sea watch with the proper officer had been set as has been usual ever since we made this island…At midnight the wind increasing made sail out of the bay as I preferred riding out the gale in Elephant Bay. At 11 A.M. came to anchor in Elephant Bay. We have now overhauled and surveyed this island from its north-west and west points to its south-west points being in length about 55 or 60 miles, and although westerly winds that have blown for such a length of time have retarded our voyage yet they have enabled me to strictly search every part of the island between aforementioned points, and should a north-east wind come and remain steady for a few days we will be able to overhaul the remaining part of the island with equal accuracy. Of the advantages to be derived from this fine island I shall say but little, the plain truth is to be seen in this journal. It contains plenty of wood and water, the woods are full of animals and excellent of their kind, the shores are lined with fine oil (if I may be allowed the expression) and this part of the island has two good bays in it well sheltered from all the dangerous winds. A vessel may anchor as I did unless the wind blows from the east, south-east or north-east or north points of the compass. I named this last discovery the Bay of Seals from the number of these animals on the shores of it, and the rocks outside the bay Seal Rocks.
“Monday, 18th January. First and middle parts it blew a gale but with long lulls at times, latter a harder gale with much heavier squalls than I have yet seen in this country (the Western Port gale excepted) and it is with great satisfaction that I am able to say that our little vessel has rode it out as yet with one anchor and half a cable–a proof of the goodness of the holding ground…At 8 the boat brought on board a turn of water and 2 kangaroo were caught–the increase of the gale hindered the boat from returning on shore.
“Tuesday, 19th January. From noon till 4 P.M. the gale continued. By sundown it was moderate weather; the boat returned on board…a wambuck was caught, served it, a swan and a kangaroo to ship’s company.
“Thursday, 21st January. A.M. Sent Mr. Bowen in the gig to Elephant Rock with directions to sound all the parts of this bay we did not run over in the vessel.
“Friday, 22nd January. P.M. The boat returned on board. Mr. Bowen found the soundings all the distance from the vessel from 9 to 10 and 11 fathoms and good ground. Close to the Elephant Rock there are 10 fathoms. This rock is about 1 1/2 miles in circumference and it is entirely covered with seals of prime fur some of which the officer brought, there might be 6 or 7,000 seals of different sizes on shore. A.M. Sent boat to Elephant Rock for skins and another for wood and water.
“Saturday, January 23rd. P.M. The launch returned with some sealskins of prime fur and I was told that the Rock was full of mutton-birds, in consequence of this I had the boat on shore and procured 80 or 90 of them, served ditto to the people.
“Sunday, January 24th. Throughout this 24 hours the weather has been remarkably thick and hazy…stood off and on till 4 P.M…then we made some sail to get sight of land if possible before dark and by 8 P.M. saw the north-west point of the Bay of Seals being north by west distant 5 miles, 2 Seal Rocks distant 6 miles north by east…at 2 A.M. found the vessel close to the breakers and a strong ripple of a current with a very confused jump of a sea. Tacked and stood off till daylight. By 6 A.M. we saw the distant looming of the land, bearing north-west, and perceived that all round us…lay rocks and dangerous breakers, one bore south-west (a large rock 3 miles) another south-south-west 3 1/2 another south 4 miles and one west 5 miles, that one which bore south-south-west, John Johnson told me he thought it Harbinger Rock, having seen it when with Mr. Black, commander of the Harbinger. At 8 A.M. made sail to the north-east…At noon strong winds at south hauled her off East.
“Before I close this log it may be proper to observe that from the very long run of bad weather we have had and being so often baffled in our attempts to get round the end of the island which is full of danger and moreover have seen all the land that lies between its north-west and west points to its south-west points from which these dangerous rocks and breakers lie about 7 or 8 miles I now determined to stand off to Albatross Island in a straight line for this reef for we could not venture too close unto land it having every appearance of a gale from south or south-east either of which blow in on the shore. This reef I named Lady Nelson Reef from our so narrowly escaping being on shore on it, this however is only to distinguish it from others for I have not the least doubt but it is what Mr. Bass gave me a sketch of, the latitude and longitude so well correspond with his. I fancy also it is what was seen in the Martha schooner in 1799 along with the land, all of which is one island…Thus we took leave of this large and fine island where the benevolent hand of Providence has fixed the chief necessaries of life and the means to procure some of its luxuries. We kept on East expecting it would soon blow a gale and a heavy sea up. I much lament not having as yet had it in my power from the series of unfavourable weather we have had so exactly to comply with the Commander-in-Chief’s orders as I could have wished.
“Monday, January 25th. From noon till half-past 1 P.M. we run due east 8 miles, we then saw from masthead Hunter’s Islands bearing (the middle of them) south-south-east distant 5 or 6 leagues…Under the lee of Three Hummock Island in smooth water we laid under easy sail off and on all night–found the tides here to run very strong. In the morning I sent boat on shore with the First Mate and 2 hands, by noon they returned having shot 2 ducks and found a spring of water, some small kangaroo were seen but not worth shooting even could they have been got at. The footsteps of a man were seen on shore, perhaps one of the Harrington’s Lascars as the foot was measured and found very small. The shores of this island are bold rock and some dangerous reefs lie off it, one of which (a sunken one) we did not escape by 10 yards…Lady Nelson’s Reef is east-south-east and west-north-west distance about 30 miles in Latitude 40 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds south and Longitude by Time-keeper 145 degrees 40 minutes 53 seconds, it has many sandy bights in it where I would not scruple to anchor in south-south-west, south-east and east winds.
“Tuesday, January 26th. At half-past 12 bore away for Elephant Rock. At 5 P.M. the south extreme of Three Hummock Island bore south by east distance 19 or 20 miles…At sundown extremes of Governor King’s Island bore south-west to west by north distance 11 or 12 miles. At 8 P.M. shortened sail and threw her head off shore intending to have lain off and on all night, this was done. At 4 A.M. made sail for land and we exactly made Elephant Rock right ahead therefore the distance between Three Hummock Island and Elephant Rock is north 65 west distance 44 miles true by compass north-west by west. We then stood on for the sandy capes or bluffs and by half-past 9 A.M. the largest and perpendicular one bore south by west distant 8 or 9 miles, this I named Cape Farewell. I took a departure from it intending to run to Cape Albany (Otway); the wind from 4 A.M. has blown at east-north-east and from that to north-east with its usual hazy dirty weather, in consequence of which we kept our wind till noon to be certain of clearing the shoals and breakers lying off this end of the island. At noon saw the looming of the western end of the island bearing distant perhaps 12 miles, the direct distance from Mid Hummock of that island to Cape Farewell is north 51 degrees west distance 56 miles true but by compass north-west a little westerly.”
CHAPTER 6.
THE DISCOVERY OF PORT PHILLIP.
On leaving King Island, Murray, on January 30th (civil time),* (* In this chapter civil time is given in the author’s observations. The time in the logs throughout is according to nautical reckoning, i.e. the day beginning at noon before the civil reckoning.) returned again to Western Port and next day, at 4 A.M. he sent Mr. Bowen with 5 men in the launch to examine the harbour to the westward which is now known as Port Phillip and at the head of which stands the city of Melbourne. On Wednesday the launch returned and the first mate reported that he had found a good channel into the harbour which was “a most noble sheet of water.” He also reported that he saw no natives but only their huts. Shortly afterwards Murray himself entered the newly discovered Port in the Lady Nelson.
Murray arrived there on February 14th and anchored at 3.30 P.M. in a sandy cove off a point of the shore which lay distant a quarter of a mile to the south-west. He named a high mountain Arthur’s Seat; a cluster of islands where black swans were plentiful Swan Isles; a bold rocky point to the east-south-east Point Paterson and a long sandy point Point Palmer.
The chart of Port Phillip (Illustration 11) is possibly a reproduction of the track of the Lady Nelson’s boat when the bay was explored for the first time. Arthur’s Seat and Watering Place apparently are the only names placed on it by Murray* (* It is preserved at the Admiralty.) as Swan Pond and “Point Repear” are in a different handwriting. At “Point Repear” the long boat of the Lady Nelson may have been repaired or the name may have been written in mistake for Point Nepean, also named by Murray.
The following entries describe his coming to Port Phillip.
“Wednesday, January 27th. From noon till 8 P.M. variable winds, hot sultry weather, dull fiery sky and so thick that we could not see above a mile ahead; kept making for Cape Albany (Otway). At 8 short sail and hove to…at 4 A.M. the wind settled into a westerly gale attended with heavy squalls and rain. By 9 A.M. it turned into a clear gale and a very high sea up which makes us labour a good deal. Had altitude longitude by then 143 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, these agree with the dead reckoning within 3 or 4 miles. Latitude 39 degrees 12 minutes 33 seconds. This weather has again rendered abortive my plan of getting the direct line of bearing and distance between Cape Farewell and Cape Albany Otway. I shall only observe that I never experienced such length of bad weather at any time of year or in any country since I sailed the seas.
“Saturday, January 30th. At half-past 9 A.M. the north point of land bore north distant 12 miles–made sail for it. At 10 A.M. perceived with surprise that it was Cape Shanks and Grant’s Point instead of Cape Albany. I now judged it prudent to send our boat down to overhaul for a channel into the harbour mentioned in the Log of the 5th of this month, accordingly stood in for it and by noon Cape Shanks bore north-west distant 6 or 7 miles and Grant’s Point north-east by east 10 or 11 miles. We had a very heavy swell and perceived the surf about Seal Islands breaking in a fearful manner; sounded every hour.
“Sunday, January 31st. At 2 P.M. passed Seal Island. Observed the long range of breakers on the western side of the Port: several of them had shifted their berths nearer to mid channel…the whole of them for several miles broke incessantly and remarkable lofty–we passed within 2 miles of them. The reefs on the eastern side also broke much further out. In short the mid channel up this port has (by the immense run of bad weather) been made narrower. By 5 P.M. got to anchor in Elizabeth’s Cove…out boats. Got the launch ready for sailing in the morning to explore the channel of the western harbour before mentioned. I went on shore in the gig. Found the well as we left it full of fine clear water and our board of directions hanging at the entrance of the pathway. At 4 A.M.* (* It will be seen that Bowen left to explore Port Phillip at 4 A.M. of January 31st and not on February 1st.) I sent the launch with Mr. Bowen and 5 men armed with 14 days’ provisions and water down to the westward giving him particular instructions how to act both with respect to the harbour and natives should he fall in with any, the substance of which was that in finding a channel into the Port he would take marks proper for coming in with the vessel and immediately return to me and at all times to deal friendly with the natives. It may now be proper to observe that my intentions are that if a passage into that harbour is found I will take the vessel down into it and survey it as speedily as circumstances will allow, from that trace the coast to Cape Albany, from Cape Albany run strait to Cape Farewell and Harbinger Rocks, and if time, after that follow up the remainder of my orders.
“Monday, February 1st…A.M. I walked along the beach for 8 miles up to Lady Nelson’s Point and observed that a great variety of birds were in the brush and their notes very different; flights of white cockatoos of perhaps 100 were often seen. At Lady Nelson’s Point we saw 20 or 30 swans in the salt-water lagoon…one and all of the birds we have seen were so shy that…we did not shoot one (a single pigeon excepted). The trees also were all in bloom. I am apt to think that summer does not begin in this part till January. On penetrating further into this island the soil was found to be good.
“Tuesday, February 2nd. P.M. I sent a hand on shore to the well in order to see if any birds were to be got by his sitting there a few hours steady as numbers towards sundown came in to drink. The plan had the desired effect, 4 pigeons were shot, a dozen of parrots; these latter were common, I dined on them, the pigeons were preserved. On opening them all were found to feed on seeds of various kinds.
“Wednesday, February 3rd. P.M. As I was walking along the pathway to the well I nearly trod on a snake about 6 feet long, the first we have seen on the island. It made its way into the brush.
“Thursday, February 4th. Throughout these 24 hours we have had calms with hot sickly weather and thick fiery haze. At half-past 9 P.M. the launch returned on board, all well. Mr. Bowen reported that a good channel was found into this new harbour, water from 10 fathoms to 6 and about a mile and a half broad, and according to his accounts it is A MOST NOBLE SHEET OF WATER larger even than Western Port, with many fine coves and entrances in it and the appearance and probability of rivers, a number of shells were found on its beaches–swans, pelicans and birds of various sorts were seen in great numbers. The boat’s crew lived on swans all the time they were away.
“No water was as yet found–the officer having no time to spare, nor no natives seen but numbers of their huts, in short from such a report as I have received and of the truth of which I have no doubt (as the attention and care of this officer has always been conspicuous) it would be unpardonable in me not to give this new harbour a strict overhaul, in the meantime as it was calm and no appearance of getting out, at 8 A.M. hove up and towed the vessel up to Lady Nelson’s Point in order to send the boat up the river for birds such plenty of various kinds being on this island. At noon dropped our anchor in 6 fathoms, Lady Nelson’s Point bearing west by south half a mile and Crown Head 9 miles north-east by east and Margaret Island north-east 1/2 north 7 or 8 miles–moored with kedge.
“Friday, February 5th. Variable flaws of wind all round the compass this last 24 hours and hot sultry weather. Employed overhauling our bread which we found in good order. A.M. Sent the launch with the First Mate and 4 hands armed up the river to try and shoot some birds, it ought to be observed that the past two or three days we were here numbers of native fires were seen on the coast and up both arms, since then they have disappeared.
“Monday, February 8th. At 3 P.M. the launch returned, all well, having got a live swan, some dead ones and 4 crowned parrots, a single duck was shot. No fresh water was to be got even at dead low water and up as far as the boat could be pushed between the boughs of the fallen trees. At A.M. took up our kedge, weighed our anchor, made sail for Elizabeth’s Cove and at half-past 6 A.M. came to anchor…sent empty cask on shore to complete our water–also a party to cut wood, we filled our casks from this excellent spring. Longitude by chronometer 145 degrees 13 minutes 53 seconds.
“Tuesday, February 9th. Calm weather, constant thick fiery haze, very close and sultry. By 3 P.M. secured everything for sea intending to sail in the morning, took a haul of our seine, caught one whiting only and two remarkable curious fish.
“Wednesday, February 10th. P.M. Sighted our Bower anchor suspecting it to be foul, found it so. Having found a quantity of oysters, mussels and shellfish at low water to-day gave the shore a strict search at low water and plainly perceived that a company of 6 or 8 men would not run any hazard of being starved here for several months from the vast quantity of shellfish to be found. We also have these some days past found feeding on seaweed many hundreds of a very handsome shell very scarce where we were in April last.
“Thursday, February 11th. This evening a snake 6 feet long was killed in the road to the well.
“Friday, February 12th. A.M. Hoisted in launch, took up kedge intending to sail if wind came to anything, it however kept constantly falling calm and then a light air would spring up for a few minutes; this kind of weather obliged me to keep fast. At noon heard distant thunder around us.
“Saturday, February 13th. From 7 P.M. till 10 P.M. constant loud thunder, vivid lightning and very hard rain later part, till 9 A.M. Was calm then. A breeze sprung up at east. Hove up our B.* (* Bower, that is anchor.) and hung by the kedge, by this time it fell calm and our hopes of getting to sea vanished, needless to observe this kind of weather is as destructive to the intent of this cruise as gales at sea. I took a walk along the beach far enough to see all the entrances to this port and by ascending an eminence was confirmed in my opinion that several of those dangerous sand rollers had shifted their berths and by so doing had rendered the channel narrower than hithertofore.
“Sunday, February 14th…At 5 A.M. weighed and made all sail down the port, by 8 A.M. Grant’s Point bore east by north distant 10 miles and Cape Shanks north-west distant 7 miles; kept running down the land. A.M. At half-past 10 South Head of the new Harbour or Port north by east 8 miles distant; by noon the island at entrance of harbour bore north half a mile distant. At this time we had a view of this part of the spacious harbour, its entrance is wide enough to work any vessel in, but, in 10 fathoms. Bar stretches itself a good way across, and, with a strong tide out and wind in, the ripple is such as to cause a stranger to suspect rock or shoals ahead. We carried in with us water from 14 to 16 fathoms. Kept standing up the port with all sail set.
“Monday, February 15th. P.M. Working up, the port with a very strong ebb against us, we however gained ground. The southern shore of this noble harbour is bold high land in general and not clothed as all the land at Western Point is with thick brush but with stout trees of various kinds and in some places falls nothing short, in beauty and appearance, of Greenwich Park. Away to the eastward at the distance of 20 miles the land is mountainous, in particular there is one very high mountain which in the meantime I named Arthur’s Seat from its resemblance to a mountain of that name a few miles from Edinburgh…to the north-east by north, about 5 miles from the south shore lies a cluster of small rocky islands and all round them a shoal of sand; plenty of swans and pelicans were found on them when the boat was down, from which I named them Swan Isles. To the north-east by east there is an opening, and from our masthead no land could be seen in it. The northern shores are low with a sandy beach all along. At half-past 3 P.M. we got to anchor in a sandy cove in 7 fathoms water, bottom fine sand–Swan Isles bearing north-east by north distance 5 miles, a bold rocky point which I named Point Paterson east-south-east 1 1/2 miles, a long sandy point named Point Palmer west, 1 1/2 miles, and the nearest point of the shore south-west 1/2 of a mile distant.
“I went on shore and walked through the woods a couple of miles. The ground was hard and pleasant to walk on. The trees are at a good distance from each other and no brush intercepts you. The soil is good as far as we may be judges. I saw several native huts and very likely they have burnt off several hundred acres of ground. Young grass we found springing up over all the ground we walked; the only birds we saw were a few parrots. We found some shells on the beach and returned on board. I have named this harbour Port King* (* Governor King afterwards renamed the harbour Port Phillip in honour of the first Governor of New South Wales.) in honour of Governor P.G. King under whose orders I act. Set a third watch of the people with an officer. In the morning sent the gig to Swan isles for swans and on board we caught a few rock fish. At noon the gig returned with 3 live and 4 dead swans.
“Tuesday, February 16th. After dinner I took a walk through the woods of this part of the country, attended by one soldier and our carpenter to examine the wood. To describe this part I walked through is simply to say that it nearly resembles a walk on Blackheath and the Park if we set out of question the houses and gardens of the latter. The hills and valleys rise and fall with inexpressible elegance. We discovered no water nor any new wood of consequence, but it is impossible that a great want of water can be here from the number of native huts and fires we fell in with in our march. From the top of a high hill I ascended and casting my eyes to the north-east a large sheet of water was seen which I am inclined to think is either a harbour or large river; we also perceived that this port trained away under Cape Shanks.
“On our return to the boat Andrew Luck found a perfect nautilus shell; he made me a present of it, indeed it is but common justice to observe that the invariable good, attentive and decent behaviour of this old man ever since he joined this vessel renders him a fit object of mercy. This day a few snappers were caught and some rock fish. At sundown a native fire was seen about a mile inland, in the morning early I sent Mr. Bowen and Bond armed to speak them, neither fell in with them. At 9 A.M. hove up our Bower with a light air at north-east and dropped a few miles further up the Port. We now saw the same fire just lighted by the natives and presently perceived several of them come out of the Bush, but the moment they saw the vessel they sprang into the wood out of sight. At 11 A.M. we came to an anchor in 5 fathoms water, handed sails, etc., as there was a native fire burning a little way inland.
“I sent the launch with Mr. Bowen and 4 hands armed to see if any natives were here, and before the boat was half-way on shore we had the satisfaction of seeing 18 or 20 men and boys come out of the wood and seat themselves down on a green bank waiting the approach of our boat with which I had sent some shirts and other trifles to give them; the boat accordingly landed in the midst of them and a friendly intercourse took place with dancing on both sides–in an hour the boat returned. Mr. Bowen had dressed them in our white shirts and invited them on board, this however they declined, but exchanged for all this. Got a basket of straw neatly enough made. They were all clothed in the skins of opossums and each had a bundle of spears, a stone mogo and one basket. They wished much to know what our arms were and their use and did not seem entirely to believe Mr. Bowen that they were only walking sticks–no women were amongst them. I sent the boat again with some bread, looking-glasses, tomahawk and a picture as presents to induce them to part with their weapons and dresses as also to inform us where there was water. This day all hands put upon two-thirds allowance of bread.
“Wednesday, February 17th. Fresh light airs inclinable to calm throughout this 24 hours. The boat (as mentioned in latter part of yesterday’s log) proceeded to the shore and was as before received in a friendly manner by the natives, all of whom were seated in a circle on a beautiful spot of grass near a high point of land. Mr. Bowen and all the crew consisting of 5 men and the boy, Mr. Brabyn, went up with their dinners in their hands and sat down in the midst of them (18 in number) and began to eat showing the natives how to eat bread, etc., and gave them anything they chose to ask for. Mr. Bowen gave them all the things I had sent as well as several of his own things–stripping himself almost naked to comply with their wishes, and his example was followed by the whole of the boat’s crew. As there was two fine-looking boys amongst them I sent Mr. Brabyn on shore purposely to see and gain their confidence by his attention to their youngsters, both of whom he dressed in his shirts, handkerchiefs, trowsers, etc.
“All matters continued in this state while our people had anything to give and all we got was 2 spears, a basket and a mogo and even these they again took from the seamen that had them in keeping, this however the officer took no offence at being determined if at all possible to keep on friendly terms with them. It was in vain that the officer and crew tryed by signs too significant not to be understood to gain intelligence where water was to be found or on what beaches shells were most plentiful, to all such enquiries they turned a deaf ear and only seemed intent on getting what our people had even to the last shirt; by this time our people had nearly finished their dinners and Isaac Moss having the boat in charge got up and was walking slowly down to her. At this time the Boy Brabyn happened to turn his head towards the wood and saw a man in the very act of throwing a spear at Moss as well as a large body (not before seen) behind a large fallen tree with their spears all in readiness for throwing. The boy immediately cried out to Mr. Bowen who was at that very time in the act of serving out bread to all the party he was sitting among that he would be speared, but before the words were out of his mouth, a spear of a most dangerous kind, was thrown at and did not escape Moss by a yard and in an instant the whole of the treacherous body that Mr. Bowen and 4 of our people were sitting in the midst of opened out to the right and left and at once left them all open to the party in ambush who immediately were on their feet and began to throw spears; still such was the forbearance of the officer that only one piece was fired over their heads but this was found only to create a small panic, and our party were obliged to teach them by fatal experience the effect of our walking sticks.
“The first fire made them run and one received two balls between his shoulders, still some of them made a stop to heave; the second fire they all set off with astonishing speed and most likely one received a mortal wound. Before another piece was fired Mr. Bowen laid hold of one of their number and held on till three of our people came up and also grappled him, strange to tell he made such violent struggles as to get away from them all nor did the contents of the officer’s piece bring him up although one ball passed through his arm and the other in the side–he was traced a good distance by his blood–the remaining pieces were by this time fired and our party gave chase to them all.
“On board I kept a strict look-out with the glass and we lay only a little more than a quarter of a mile off the point where they were seated on. I plainly saw the natives running through the wood which was by no means thick–one fellow in particular had been dressed in one of my white shirts and the officer had tyed the wrists of it with string, which hindered his getting it off–him we plainly saw from the vessel pass the roots of black trees with such speed as more to resemble a large white bird flying than a man. To increase their panic as they passed along I gave them a discharge of our guns loaded with round and grape but am almost certain that they did them no damage; by this time our people returned from the chase, having found on the way back a number of spears, dresses and baskets, etc. Made the boat signal and they came off.
“Thus did this treachery and unprovoked attack meet with its just punishment and at the same time taught us a useful lesson to be more cautious in future. With respect to the size of these natives they are much the same as at Sydney, their understanding better though, for they easily made out our signs when it answered their purposes or inclination. When it did not they could be dull enough. They were all clothed in opossum skins and in each basket a certain quantity of gum was found. Not the least sign of a canoe has been seen. I conclude they live entirely inland, and if we may judge from the number of their fires and other marks this part of the country is not thin of inhabitants. Their spears are of various kinds and all of them more dangerous than any I have yet seen. The workmanship of their dresses, their lines and baskets are far from despicable, their mogo or stone axes are such as common at Sydney.
“In the afternoon the boat went to Swan Isles and caught three live swans of a large size, and in the morning the launch went with Mr. Power and a party well armed to sound for a channel round which the vessel might sail in order to survey the port. Usefully employed on board. Latitude 38 degrees 20 minutes south.
“Thursday, February 18th. Pleasant weather throughout. The launch returned having been fortunate enough to discover…fresh water and a channel all round this part of the Port from 10 to 14 fathoms. I took a long range through the woods attended with an armed party. We discovered nothing new but found several of the things we gave the natives which in their fright they had dropped. The ground we walked over was open and the same as before described, with good soil. The tide where we lie flows full and changes at 3 hours in the afternoon, and its perpendicular rise is about 6 feet up and down.
“Friday, February 19th. Another overhaul of the woods took place but nothing (not before mentioned) was found. Numbers of native tracks, fires and huts were seen. One native fire in sight on Arthur’s Seat distant about 10 miles.
“Saturday, February 20th. Sent an armed party and our carpenter a long range through the woods to try the different kinds of wood, none however was found of use, the trees being almost invariably oak and other wood quite common at Sydney. A red waistcoat of Mr. Brabyn’s was found with some bread in each pocket, in this he had dressed one of the native boys, who in his fear left it I fancy, as soon as he had found how to get it off, for it was buttoned on him.
“Sunday, February 21st. Finding we could not move higher up the port with the vessel I sent the launch over the western side to examine the passage into a harbour or river I saw from the hill on 16th inst.
“Monday, February 22nd. At noon the launch returned, having found an entrance into the sheet of water they were sent to overhaul, but only at high water, 7 or 8 feet of it, consequently no harbour for shipping. The boat proceeded a mile and a half, and, in running that, caught 20 swans of a large size without wasting one charge of shot, which by-the-bye is now become a scarce article, not above 3 or 4 pounds being in the vessel; however from the report made of this place it may lead to something of more consequence. I shall after the survey of the Port is completed give it a good overhaul. I must mention here that both our boats are now in such a state of decay from age and constant mending and patching that they both keep a hand constantly bailing when pulling or sailing, this circumstance it is needless to mention in a certain degree retards our proceedings.
“Tuesday, February 23rd. I went in the launch and sounded a few miles of the Port up towards the watering place. The soundings were 9 feet to 6 fathoms, bottom fine sand, further out perhaps a deeper channel may exist (this will be ascertained in the survey). Afterwards we walked through the country some distance, found the soil invariably good, the ground almost clear and the ranges of trees as regular as they are in general in the Park, with fine strong short grass underfoot.
“Wednesday, February 24th. First part of these 24 hours had a great deal of thunder and lightning and rain, middle and latter parts it blew a hard gale at south-west with squalls at intervals. We held on although all ataunto with the small bower and one-third of a cable out, a proof of the goodness of the holding ground.
“Thursday, February 25th. First part the gale continued, latter fair winds. Observed several very large native fires at the foot of Arthur’s Seat and on the western side of the port, hauled our seine several times along the shore nearest us but caught no fish owing probably to there being flats of sand lying off them to the distance of 200 yards.
“Friday, February 26th. Examined the beach and land for about 8 miles. A.M. Sent our long boat on shore, turned her up and set our carpenter to work on her, she leaking so much as to keep a hand constantly bailing, and our small boat is so bad as to render it hazardous to go any distance from the vessel in her.
“Saturday, February 27th. Fine weather and moderate winds. Both boats sounding and on survey of harbour. A number of very large native fires on the hills round the eastern and western shores of the Port have been seen these two days past. Sent Mr. Bowen and Mr. Brabyn in the gig to get the Latitude of the north end of Swan Isles and at noon I got the Latitude of a point about 7 miles North and South of them from which a base line was got for the survey of the harbour.
“Sunday, February 28th. Gave some of the people liberty on shore.
“Monday, March 1st. At 5 A.M. took up our kedge, hove short, loosed sails and sheeted home the top-sails, weighed and made sail up the port, intending to run as high as the watering place. The wind in a little time flied away and the tide ran so rapid as to sweep the vessel on a shoal of sand with only 5 feet of water on it, as it was perfectly smooth we immediately hove her off without her sustaining the least damage and dropped back into our old berth between Point Paterson and Bowen’s Point so named from Mr. Bowen’s skirmish with the natives in it. The flies are now so troublesome as to almost hinder a person from sitting a moment in one place.
“Tuesday, March 2nd. Employed getting on board stones for ballast and stowing them away. At 4 A.M. sent the longboat for a turn of water and to sound that part of the harbour between the vessel and it; by noon she returned on board with a turn of water, it was found that a bank of sand lay from shore to the distance of a mile or a mile and a quarter with only, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 feet on it at low water and it extends nearly 4 miles along shore. When you have passed this there is from 5 to 9 fathoms water abreast of the watering place, there is however little doubt of a deep channel being outside of this shoal, and this point will be ascertained in the course of to-morrow.
“Thursday, March 4th. P.M. The launch returned on board with a turn of water but had not been able to find a channel for vessel of any draught of water though she stood well out from the shore to at best 3 miles. This bank has only from 4 to 8 feet water on it and in many places is not above a hundred yards broad.
“Friday, March 5th. I went in the launch in search of a channel by which vessels of a larger draught than ours might be got up abreast of the watering place and was fortunate enough to find one a mile at least in breadth lying off the southern shores of this Port about 3 miles and having from 16 to 6 fathoms water in at low water and neap tides; and in this water a vessel of any draught may be secure from all winds at about a mile and a half from the spring at which to-day I loaded the boat with water and examined it. As far as we are judges it is most excellent water as clear as crystal–lies from the beach about 10 or a dozen yards and plenty of it to water the Grand Fleet of England; it is nearer the entrance than the foot of Arthur’s Seat by about 2 miles, and can easily be found out by the land which for a few miles before you come to it is low whereas all the other land on both sides is high with bold points; if a boat then East or east by south from Point Paterson 9 miles puts into the shore they will not be far off it, there is plenty of duck about it, but so shy that only two have been shot, a circumstance we did not a little regret as they exceed in flavour any I ever eat. We are now complete in water and will soon be wooded.
“Saturday, March 5th. Employed on board fitting new waist-cloths, the others being decayed and her sides and bends being very bare I gave them a coat of red (the only colour we had on board) and blacked the bends and upper works. A.M. I went in the launch over to the sheet of water* (* Mentioned on 22nd.) (as I intended) with an armed boat’s crew and by noon got to its entrance. This day has been so clear that we are able to see the land all round the Port and in many places very high headlands. In those low places, where we could not be certain of the land by the eye there were numerous native fires and some of them very large.
“Sunday, March 7th. By one P.M. I got into the sheet of water and by pulling all round it found it to be very extensive but, in no place more than 6 feet water and the greatest part of it so shoal as to ground the boat. In the entrance at one place there is a small channel of about 50 or 60 feet in breadth with 9 feet to 2 1/2 fathoms water in, but of no use as it shoals to a couple of feet before you get in. The soil of the land all round the extensive place is good and its appearance exceeds in beauty even the southern shores. The number of large swans seen almost exceeds belief, but by this time most of them could fly, we caught 11–10 of which were large. All of us slept this night on a pleasant little island with a few handsome trees on it, soil good and so clear as to be fit for the hoe at once, I named it Maria Isle after a sister I lost some years past.
“Monday, March 8th. As we now intended sailing in a few days I judged it consistent with His Majesty’s instructions (a copy of which I was furnished with from the Governor and Commander-in-Chief of New South Wales) to take possession of this port in the form and manner laid down by the said instructions, and accordingly at 8 o’clock in the morning the United Colours of the Kingdoms of Great Britain and Ireland were hoisted on board and on Point Paterson, and at one o’clock under a discharge of 3 volleys of small arms and artillery the Port was taken possession of in the name of his Sacred Majesty George the Third of Great Britain and Ireland, King, etc., etc. Served double allowance of grog. In the afternoon I went on shore attended with an armed party and passed the remainder of the day about and under the colours flying on shore, at sundown hauled down the colours on board and ashore.
“Tuesday, March 9th. Employed getting ready for sea. Overhauled our keels fore and aft, cleaned them. We have now expended 19 weeks and one day’s provisions out of 24 weeks. We were victualled for commencing on 27th October 1801 and owing to the quantity of bread decayed, along with what the swans and other birds have eaten, we are rather short, even what we have left is very bad, therefore it will not be in my power at this time to prosecute the object of our cruise much further. It is in vain I regret so little being done in such a length of time, the weather and other circumstances have been rather against us the whole cruise, however the little that is performed of the original instructions is pretty accurate and I trust will give the Commander-in-Chief some satisfaction.
“Wednesday, March 10th. For these last two or three days great numbers of native fires have been seen all round the Port except between Arthur’s Seat and Point Palmer.
“Thursday, March 11th. At 7 weighed and made sail down the port by 8 A.M. with a strong tide of ebb running out we got into the entrance carrying all the way from 9 to 16 fathoms water, we then fell into such a ripple that we expected every minute it would break on board–got clear and by half-past the point of entrance bore north-east by east 4 miles and a remarkably high nob of land (if not an island) west-north-west 4 or 5 miles, by noon the entrance north-east by west 9 or 10 miles.
…
Wednesday, March 24th. Fine weather though inclined to calm. At half-past 3 P.M. South Head bore south-south-west the North distant 4 or 5 miles. At 4 P.M. passed Bradley’s Head, at 6 passed Garden Island and by half-past 6 P.M. came to an anchor in Sydney Cove with the best bower, moored with the kedge. The Commander waited on His Excellency the Governor and Commander-in-Chief.”
Murray’s voyage ended on March 24th, and on the same day he waited on Governor King at Sydney, with the news that his orders had been carried out. The Governor must have been greatly pleased, and the more so because only a month later the French ship Naturaliste put into Port Jackson.* (* The French ships Geographe and Naturaliste had left France in October 1800 on a voyage of discovery.) Hamelin, who commanded her, was, however, in sore straits. He had parted from Commodore Baudin in a gale off Van Dieman’s Land and had traversed the whole of Bass Strait without meeting the Geographe, his boats having visited Western Port* only a month after Murray had left there. (* French Island preserves the memory of their visit, but Murray’s Chart shows that the English (contrary to Peron’s assertions) knew that this island was separated from the mainland before the coming of the French.) Finding his provisions exhausted, in his extremity the French Commander, although he knew that France and England were at war, steered to Sydney. The English, we are told, received him with noble and large-minded (grande et Loyale) liberality, and the sick French sailors were received at the Government Hospital. Hamelin was busily engaged in replenishing his ship when Captain Matthew Flinders arrived in H.M.S. Investigator on May 9th and was able to give him news of his consort which he had met in Encounter Bay. Flinders also informed Captain Hamelin that Baudin had said that it was his intention to proceed to the Isle of France. The Naturaliste therefore, hastened her preparations and sailed from Sydney on May 18th.
In the meantime the Lady Nelson had been to the Hawkesbury and back again, arriving on April 21st and bringing a cargo of wheat and some cedar logs. The remarks in the log may prove of value to those who study the early history of the Colony, for Murray gives the names of the different reaches in the river, and it would be interesting to know whether these old place-names are still used. Murray does not tell us of the arrival of the Naturaliste, though he must have been in Sydney then, but various entries show that the brig conveyed the Governor and his party to the Naturaliste’s anchorage in Neutral Bay to visit Captain Hamelin and brought them to Sydney again.
Another voyage to the Hawkesbury River was carried out, and then the ship was put into preparation for a voyage of exploration, in company with the Investigator, to the North coast.
MURRAY’S LOG.
Sydney Cove to the Hawkesbury.
“Thursday, April 1st. Fine weather. Getting ready for sea. At half-past 5 A.M. up kedge and weighed and turned out of ye cove. The Cumberland got under way and proceeded down the harbour. At 8 A.M. (We having the Cumberland in company) cleared the heads of Port Jackson, and at half-past 8 parted with Cumberland, leaving her with a fine moderate breeze at south-south-east, and by half-past 9 she bore Sydney 4 or 5 miles. By 11 A.M. got abreast of Barren Jowie* (* Barrenjoey.) and by noon passed Pittwater, here we found at anchor Mr. Commissary Palmer’s vessel the George.
“Friday, April 2nd. Proceeding up Harbour and by 2 P.M. came to anchor under Mullet Island, in the evening Raby’s boat passed us, and in a little time after we hailed and brought alongside a fishing boat with three soldiers in her, at 8 P.M. she left us. A.M. Got under way and at the end of tide came to in the westernmost end of Spectacle Reach.
“Saturday, April 3rd. At 3 P.M. got under weigh and proceeded up the river–came to in Mangrove Reach, set as usual an armed watch with an officer and proceeded up the river and at noon came to in Milkmaid Reach.
“Sunday, April 4th. At 6 A.M. got under weigh and proceeded up the river as far as the first branch and there from the darkness of the night came to. At 5 A.M. up anchor and by 11 got as far as Shot Snake Reach.
“Monday, April 5th. Fine weather. At 8 A.M. got under weigh and…proceeded up the River, by 11 A.M. passed the upper branch and by noon gained two following Reaches. Latitude observed 33 degrees 28 minutes 26 seconds south.
“Tuesday, April 6th. Fine weather throughout. At 4 P.M. came to in Belloe’s Reach and at half-past 9 P.M. got under weigh and gained Portland Reach. At 10 A.M. got under weigh and by noon got one reach above Portland Reach–as yet we have not seen one log of cedar.
“Wednesday, April 7th. Proceeding up the river–by 4 P.M. came to in the Reach above the first settlers–fired a gun.
“Sunday, April 11th. At half-past 12 hauled the vessel in close to Government House and began to take in wheat and by sundown got in 311 bushels. At daylight again began to receive grain and by noon received on board to the amount of wheat 774 bushels.
The Hawkesbury to Sydney Cove.
“Monday, April 12th. Preparing to drop down the river. At 6 A.M. made the signal for sailing with a gun.
Hawkesbury River to Sydney Cove.
“Tuesday, April 13th. At 9 A.M. hauled up to get down the river but the wind blew so strong in our teeth that we were obliged to come to a few hundred yards below Government House.
“Wednesday, April 14th. At half-past 12 P.M. the tide having made down hove up and began to tow down the river and by 5 P.M. got down to the lowest settlers. At 8 P.M. fired a gun and set an armed watch; at 9 P.M. having a fair breeze of wind, got under weigh and by noon cleared Lover’s Leap Reach.
“Thursday, April 15th. At 5 P.M. from the strength of the wind were obliged to come to in the upper end of Sackville Reach.
“Friday, April 16th. At one P.M. a short lull taking place, hove up and tried to tow down but immediately obliged to bring up from wind blowing so strong as to render our getting down the river an entire