To those who come early in the season tobogganing and snow shoeing are not unusual experiences. The shady sides of the mountains offer these winter sports as late as June and early July, and many Californians who have never enjoyed the frolic of snow-balling come here to gain their first experience in this common eastern enjoyment.
Elsewhere I have referred to the many evidences of glacial action found about a mile above Deer Park Inn. Still further up the canyon, on the trail going to Five Lakes, are interesting deposits of volcanic rock–andeside–so that these two geological phenomena may be studied close at hand.
Having its own rich meadows on Bear Creek, the Deer Park Spring tables are always supplied with good milk and cream from its own dairies, while fresh fruit and vegetables are supplied daily. Fish and game in season are frequent, and the table being under the direct and personal supervision of the management has gained an enviable reputation.
Living water flows in marvelous abundance through Deer Park all throughout the year. Springs and melting snow send four different streams, tributary to Bear Creek, coursing across the property. The domestic water supply of the Inn is gained from springs on the mountain side, 800 feet above the Inn, and it is piped all over the place and to every cottage.
There has been some talk, recently, of converting Deer Park into a private park. There is no better location for such a purpose in the whole Tahoe region. Situated as it is in the heart of a canyon it is readily isolated and thus kept entirely secluded and free from intrusion. While such a procedure would be a great advantage to any individual or club who might purchase the estate, it would be a decided loss to the general public who for so many years have enjoyed the charms and delights of this earliest of Sierran mountain resorts.
CHAPTER XX
RUBICON SPRINGS
One of the oldest and most famous resorts of the High Sierras is Rubicon Springs. It is nine miles from Lake Tahoe, at McKinney’s, over a mountain road built many years ago, engineered so as to afford marvelously entrancing glimpses of the Lake and of the mountain scenery on either hand. Here are primeval forest, flower-strewn meadows of emerald, crystal streams and placid-faced glacial lakes in which snow-clad mountain summits are mirrored in quiet glory. The Rubicon River is one of the feeders of the American River, and the springs are located not far from its head waters.
The Rubicon Springs were originally discovered and located upon by the Hunsaker brothers, two genuine explorers and adventurers whose names deserve to be preserved in connection with the Tahoe region. They were originally from the Hoosier state, coming to California in 1849, across the plains, by Fort Hall, the sink of the Humboldt, Ragtown, and by Carson Canyon to old Hangtown (now Placerville). They mined for several years. Then came the Comstock excitement. They joined the exodus of miners for the Nevada mountains and were among the earliest to help to construct the Georgetown trail. Thus it was they discovered Rubicon. In 1869 they located upon 160 acres, built a log-house and established a stopping station which they called Hunsaker Springs. In the winter they rested or returned to Georgetown, making occasional trapping trips, hunting bear and deer, and the meat of which they sold. In those days deer used to winter in large numbers almost as far down as Georgetown (some fifteen miles or so), so that hunting them for market was a profitable undertaking in the hands of experts.
They and John McKinney, the founder of McKinney’s, were great friends, having worked together in the Georgetown mines. They soon made their places famous. Their mining friends came over from Virginia City, Gold Hill, Carson, etc., by way of Glenbrook, where they were ferried across Lake Tahoe by the old side-wheel steamer, _Governor Stanford_, to McKinney’s. Then by pack trail over to Hunsakers.
For many years they used to cut a great deal of hay from the nearby meadows. A natural timothy grows, sometimes fully four feet high. A year’s yield would often total fully thirty tons, for which the highest price was paid at the mines.
There was another spring, beside Hunsakers’, about a mile higher up, owned by a friend of the Hunsakers, named Potter. In time he sold this spring to a Mrs. Clark, who finally sold it back to him, when it was bought by Mr. R. Colwell, of Moana Villa. When the Hunsakers grew too old to run their place they sold it to a man named Abbott, who, in due time wished to sell out. But, in the meantime the railroad had surveyed their land, granted by Congress, and found that the springs and part of the hotel building were on their land, so that while Abbott sold all his holdings to Mr. Colwell, he could not sell the main objects of the purchaser’s desire. An amicable arrangement, however, was made between all the parties at interest.
Mr. Colwell is now the owner of all the property.
For countless centuries the Indians of both west and east of Tahoe were used to congregate in the Rubicon country. They came to drink the medicinal waters, fish, catch deer and game birds, and also gather acorns and pine nuts. How well I remember my own visit to the Springs in the fall of 1913. Watson and I had had three delightful days on the trail and in Hell Hole, and had come, without a trail, from Little Hell Hole up to Rubicon. The quaking aspens were dropping their leaves, the tang of coming winter was in the air, mornings and evenings, yet the middle of the day was so warm that we drank deeply of the waters of the naturally carbonated springs. No, this statement is scarcely one of fact. It was warm, but had it been cold, we, or, at least, I should have drank heartily of the waters because I liked them. They are really delicious, and thousands have testified to their healthfulness.
We saw the station of the water company, where a man remains through the year to register the river’s flow and the snowfall. Then we passed a large lily lake to the left,–a once bold glacial lake now rapidly nearing the filled-up stage ere it becomes a mountain meadow–and were fairly on the Georgetown grade, the sixty mile road that reaches from McKinney’s to Georgetown. It is a stern road, that would make the “rocky road to Dublin” look like a “flowery bed of ease,” though we followed it only a mile and a half to leave it for the steep trail that reaches Rock Bound Lake. This is one of the larger of the small glacial lakes of the Tahoe Region, and is near enough to Rubicon Springs to be reached easily on foot.
From a knoll close by one gains an excellent panorama of Dick’s, Jack’s and Ralston’s Peaks. Tallac and Pyramid are not in sight. The fishing here is excellent, the water deep and cold and the lake large enough to give one all the exercise he needs in rowing.
On the summit of the Georgetown road one looks down upon the nearby placid bosom of Buck Island Lake. It received this name from Hunsaker. The lake is very irregular in shape, about a third of a mile long, and a quarter of a mile wide in its widest part. Near one end is a small island. Hunsaker found the deer swam over to this island to rest and sleep during the heat of the day, hence the name.
[Illustration: Angora Lakes, Fallen Leaf Lake and Lake Tahoe ]
[Illustration: White Cloud Falls, Cascade Lake]
[Illustration: Upper Eagle Falls, Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe]
The Little Rubicon river flows into Buck Island Lake and out again, and about two miles below Rubicon Springs the Georgetown road crosses the river at the foot of the lake.
With these two lakes, and others not far away, fine hunting and fishing, with several mountains nearby for climbing, the hotsprings, a fine table and good horses to ride it can well be understood that Rubicon Springs makes a delightful summer stopping-place. One great advantage that it possesses, under its present proprietorship is that guests may alternate between Moana Villa and the Springs and thus spend part of their time on the Lake and the other part in the heart of the mountains. The Colwells are hearty and homelike hosts, and are devoted to giving their many guests the greatest possible enjoyment, pleasure and health that a summer’s vacation can contain.
CHAPTER XXI
EMERALD BAY AND CAMP
Situated near the southwest corner of Lake Tahoe is Emerald Bay, by many thousands regarded as the choicest portion of Lake Tahoe. Surrounded by so many wonderful scenes, as one is at Tahoe, it is difficult to decide which possesses surpassing power, but few there are who see Emerald Bay without at once succumbing to its allurement. Its geological history has already been given in Chapter VIII, in which it is clearly shown by Dr. Joseph Le Conte that it was once a glacial lake, and that the entrance to the main lake used to be the terminal moraine that separated the two bodies of water. As a natural consequence, therefore, visitors may expect to find evidences of glacial action on every hand. They are not disappointed. The walls of the Bay, on both north and south, are composed of glacial detritus, that of the south being a pure moraine, separating the once glacial lake of Emerald Bay from Cascade Lake.
Emerald Bay is about three miles in length, with a southwesterly trend, and half a mile wide. The entrance is perhaps a quarter of a mile wide and is formed by a triangular spit of sand, on which grows a lone pine, on the one side, and a green chaparral-clad slope, known as Eagle Point, on the other. The Bay opens and widens a little immediately the entrance is joined. The mountains at the head of the Bay form a majestic background. To the southwest (the left) is Mount Tallac, with a rugged, jagged and irregular ridge leading to the west, disappearing behind two tree-clad sister peaks, which dominate the southern side of the Bay’s head. These are known as Maggie’s Peaks (8540 and 8725 feet respectively, that to the south being the higher), though originally their name, like that of so many rounded, shapely, twin peaks in the western world gained by the white man from the Indian, signified the well-developed breasts of the healthy and vigorous maiden. Emerging from behind these the further ridge again appears with a nearer and smoother ridge, leading up to a broken and jagged crest that pierces the sky in rugged outline. A deep gorge is clearly suggested in front of this ridge, in which Eagle Lake nestles, and the granite mass which forms the eastern wall of this gorge towers up, apparently higher than the nearer of Maggie’s peaks, and is known as Phipps’ Peak (9000 feet). This is followed by still another peak, nearer and equally as high, leading the eye further to the north, where its pine-clad ridge merges into more ridges striking northward.
Between Maggie’s and Phipps’ Peaks the rocky masses are broken down into irregular, half rolling, half rugged foothills, where pines, firs, tamaracks and cedars send their pointed spires upwards from varying levels. In the morning hours, or in the afternoon up to sunset, when the shadows reveal the differing layers, rows, and levels of the trees, they stand out with remarkable distinctness, each tree possessing its own perfectly discernible individuality, yet each contributing to the richness of the clothing of the mountainside, as a whole.
Down across the lower portion of Maggie’s Peaks, too to 200 feet above the level of the Bay, the new automobile road has ruled its sloping line down to the cut, where a sturdy rustic bridge takes it over the stream which conveys the surplus waters from Eagle Lake to the Bay. On the other side it is lost in the rolling foothills and the tree-lined lower slopes of Cathedral Peak from whence it winds and hugs the Lake shore, over Rubicon Point to Tahoe Tavern.
But Emerald Bay has other romantic attractions besides its scenery. In the early ‘sixties Ben Holladay, one of the founders of the great Overland Stage system that reached from the Pacific Coast to the Missouri River, built a pretentious house at the head of the Bay. Naturally it was occupied by the family only part of the time, and in 1879, a tramp, finding it unoccupied, took up his lodgings therein, and, as a mark of his royal departure, the structure burned down the next morning. The site was then bought by the well-known capitalist, Lux, of the great cattle firm of Miller & Lux, and is now owned by Mrs. Armstrong.
As the steamer slowly and easily glides down the Bay, it circles around a rocky islet, on which a number of trees find shelter. This island was inhabited at one time by an eccentric Englishman, known as Captain Dick, who, after having completed a cottage to live in, carried out the serious idea of erecting a morgue, or a mausoleum, as a means of final earthly deposit upon dissolution. This queer-looking dog-house might have become a sarcophagus had it not been for one thing, viz., Captain Dick, one dark and stormy night, having visited one of the neighboring resorts where he had pressed his cordial intemperately, determined to return to his solitary home. In vain the danger was urged upon him. With characteristic obstinacy, enforced by the false courage and destruction of his ordinarily keen perception by the damnable liquor that had “stolen away his brains,” he refused to listen, pushed his sail-boat from the wharf and was never seen again. His overturned boat was afterwards found, blown ashore.
[Illustration: The marble tablet on one of Maggie’s Peaks, bearing the inscription: “FLEETWOOD PEAK, ASCENDED BY MISS MARY McCONNELL, SEPT. 12, 1869.”]
[Illustration: The island in Emerald Bay, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: ‘Whispering Pines’, Al Tahoe, on Lake Tahoe]
* * * * *
EMERALD BAY CAMP
Emerald Bay is made accessible to regular summer guests by Emerald Bay Camp, one of the choice and highly commendable resorts of the Tahoe region. The Camp is located snugly among the pines of the north side of the Bay, and consists of the usual hotel, with nearby cottages and tents.
Less than five minutes’ walk connects it with the picturesque Automobile Boulevard, which is now connected with the Camp by an automobile road. The distance is four-fifths of a mile and hundreds of people now enjoy the hospitality of Emerald Bay Camp who come directly to it in their own machines.
Its location suggests many advantages for the angler, the famous Indian fishing grounds being located at the mouth of the bay. Cascade, Eagle, and the unfished Velma Lakes are easily accessible to trampers, the outlets from these furnishing sporty brook trout fishing. These streams and lakes are all stocked with Eastern brook, Loch Levin and cutthroat. The protected waters of the bay make boating safe and bathing a comfortable delight.
But not all the beauty of nature and the advantages of excellent location can make a popular camp. There is much in the individuality of those who own or “run” it. Emerald Bay Camp is owned by Mr. Nelson L. Salter, for many years so favorably known in the Yosemite Valley. Such is its growing popularity that Mr. Salter has recently (1921) purchased another ten acres of adjoining land, thus enlarging his frontage on the Bay to about 1000 feet, and giving him many more cottages for the entertainment of his guests.
* * * * *
EAGLE LAKE
From Emerald Bay Camp there are quite a number of interesting trail and climbing trips, one of the commonest of which is that to Eagle Lake.
Taking the trail west, one zigzags to the north until the Automobile Boulevard is reached. A half mile’s walk brings one to the bridge over Eagle Creek. Here a few steps lead to the head of the upper portion of Eagle Falls, which dash down a hundred feet or so to the rocky ledge, from whence they fall to their basin, ere they flow out to join the waters of Emerald Bay.
A few yards beyond the bridge the trail starts. It is a genuine mountain trail, now over rough jagged blocks of granite, then through groves of pines, firs, tamaracks and spruces, where flowers, ferns, mosses and liverworts delight the eyes as they gaze down, and the spiculae and cones and blue sky thrill one with delight as they look above, and where the sunlight glitters through the trees as they look ahead. To the right Eagle Creek comes noisily down, over falls and cascades, making its own music to the accompaniment of the singing voices of the trees. Now and again the creek comes to a quiet, pastoral stretch, where it becomes absolutely “still water”. Not that it is motionless, but noiseless, covered over with trees and vines, that reflect upon its calm surface and half hide the trout that float so easily and lazily through its clear, pure, cold stream.
There is enough of climbing to call into exercise long unused muscles, the granite blocks are rough, angular and irregular enough to exercise eyes, hands and feet to keep one from falling, and the lungs are filled with balsam-ladened mountain-air, fresh from God’s own perfect laboratories, healing, vivifying, rejuvenating, strengthening, while the heart is helped on and encouraged to pump more and more of its blood, drawn from long almost quiescent cells into the air-chambers of the lungs, there to receive the purifying and life-giving oxygen and other chemical elements that multiply the leucocytes vastly and set them at work driving out the disease germs that accumulate and linger in every city-living man’s and woman’s system.
Suddenly from a little rise the lake is revealed. Eagle Lake, or Pine Lake, or Spruce Lake, or Hidden Lake, or Granite Lake, or Sheltered Lake–any of these names would be appropriate. Almost circular in form–that is if you are not expected to be too rigidly exact in geometric terms–it is literally a jewel of lapis lazuli in a setting of granite cliffs.
Here one may sit and rest, enjoying the placid waters of the lake, the rugged grandeur of the immediate cliffs, or the slopes of the towering mountains that encircle the horizon.
Eagle Lake is but one of the hundred of glacially made Sierran lakes of the Tahoe region, but a study of its idiosyncrasies would reveal distinctive and charming characteristics.
* * * * *
CATHEDRAL PEAK
There are two Cathedral Peaks at Tahoe, one above Cathedral Park on Fallen Leaf Lake, the other at the rear of Emerald Bay Camp. Early in the season, 1914, three _girls_ decided to climb this peak from the camp although there was no trail. One of them wrote the following account of the trip:
The most interesting peak of the Rubicon ridge is Cathedral. The mountain rises directly back of Emerald Bay, some three thousand feet above the Lake. About six hundred feet above the camp there is a meadow where larkspur grows four and five feet high. But from Eagle Creek the aspect is quite different. There are no soft contours. Huge rocks pile up–one great perpendicular surface adding five hundred feet to the height–into spires and domes for all the world like some vast cathedral which taunts the soul with its aloofness. If, on some sunshiny afternoon you look up from the camp and see a ghost-moon hanging, no more than a foot above the highest spire, you must surely be “citified” if you do not pause to drink in its weird sublimity and wild beauty.
Many winters of storm and snow have loosed the rocks and carried them down the mountain. Those thrown down years ago are moss-covered and have collected enough soil in their crevices to nourish underbrush and large trees. But there are bare rocks along Eagle Creek to-day large enough for a man to hew a cabin from. Standing in awe of their size one surely must look curiously up the mountain to find the spaces they once occupied. Then, taking in the size of the peak it is equally natural that one should be filled with a desire to climb it and look down the other side and across the vista to the neighboring ranges. While we were getting used to the altitude we stood below admiring. Every evening we went out on the wharf, gazed up at its grandeur and discussed the best way to go, for though we knew we should have to break our own trail, we had decided to attempt the climb. We set a day and the hour for rising; the night before laid out our tramping clothes and religiously went to bed at eight. I doubt if any of us slept, for we were used to later hours and excitement kept us awake.
As it was the first trip of the season, we lost some time at the start, admiring each others’ costumes. Two of us adhered to the regulation short skirt and bloomers, but the third girl wore trousers, poked into the top of her high boots. This proved, by far, the most satisfactory dress before the day’s tramping was done. We got started at four-thirty. The first awakened birds were twittering. The shadows of the moraine lay reflected in the unruffled surface of the Bay. Gradually rosy flushes showed in the east. By the time we reached the meadow the sun rose suddenly above the Nevada mountains and some of the chill went out of the atmosphere.
The meadow was flooded with snow-water. Beyond, the mountain rose by sheer steps of rock with slides of decomposed granite between. We avoided the under-brush as far as possible, preferring to take back and forth across the loose granite. The wind came up as we left the meadow, grew in force as we climbed. Some one suggested breakfast, and then there began a search for a sheltered place. A spot sided by three bowlders away from under-brush was decided upon. By the time the fire was built the wind was
a gale sending the flames leaping in every direction–up the rocks and up our arms as we broiled the bacon. Breakfast was a failure, as far as comfort was concerned. It was a relief when we finally tramped out the embers and resumed our journey.
The top of a long snow-drift was a previously chosen land-mark. It was seven when we reached the top of it. Some one came out on the Bay in a row-boat–we were too high for recognition–thought better of it and went back. Towards the top we left the decomposed granite and underbrush behind, climbing the rocks in preference to the snow, where the choice was allowed us. The wind howled and shrieked, and blew with a force great enough to destroy balance, while its icy touch brought the blood tingling to our cheeks.
At last we reached the summit. And oh! the joy of achievement.
All Rubicon ridge and its neighbors, as far as the eye could see, were white with snow; the lakes in the valley below were still frozen–only one showing any blue. Clouds came up rapidly from the west, rushed by to the Nevada side where they piled up in great cumulous heaps. The apex of Pyramid was cloud-capped all day. Shifting gusts drove the waters of Tahoe scurrying first this way, then that. Where in the early morning every tree had viewed her image among the reflected tints of sunrise, at ten-thirty white-caps flashed and disappeared to flash in a different place among the everchanging eddies. Cascade and Fallen Leaf Lakes presented a continuous procession of white-caps to the east, while Eagle lay black and sinister in the shadow of Maggie’s Peaks.
After lunch, the wind blowing too cold for comfort, we started home, straight down–over snow, granite and underbrush–till we hit the State Highway. Here we found a sheltered place by a creek and talked over the day’s happenings.
Along the roadside we drew up a resolution on the satisfaction of the trip. The girl who had been cold all day didn’t ever want to see snow again, but already the others were discussing a possible ascent from the Eagle Creek side–so great is the lure of the high places.
CHAPTER XXII
AL-TAHOE
Al-Tahoe, four miles east of Tallac, is one of the newer, better and more fashionable and pretentious resorts recently established at the south end of the Lake. Its projectors saw the increasing demand for summer residences on the Lake, and realizing to the full the superior advantages of this location, they divided their large holding into suitable villa and bungalow sites, and other lots, and readily disposed of a number of them to those who were ready to build. To further the colonizing plans of these chosen and selected purchasers a fine, modern, well-equipped hotel was erected, replete with every convenience and luxury that progressive Americans now expect and demand in their chosen resorts. The result is quite a settlement has grown up, and Al-Tahoe sees ahead an era of rapid growth and prosperity. Its homes are substantial and beautiful and indicate that John LeConte’s prophecy, elsewhere quoted, is already coming to pass. Pasadena capitalists are behind the hotel and town project.
Being advantageously located on the State and National automobile boulevard, and near to all the choice mountain, lake and other resorts of the southern end of Tahoe, it appeals to those who wish to combine equally ready access to civilization with the wild ruggedness and infinite variety of many-featured Nature.
It is situated on a high plateau, gently sloping from the bluff, with a Lake-frontage of about three quarters of a mile. The land rises with a gentle slope to the edge of the terrace facing the stream, meadow, and mountains on the south.
With no stagnant water, there are practically no mosquitoes, and it is confessedly one of the most healthful spots of all this health giving region. Being on a lea shore, the cold air from the snowy summits of the mountains tempered by the warm soil of the foothills and level area, there is no place on the Lake better adapted for bathing and boating, especially as the beach is sandy and shallow, sloping off for some distance from the shore.
The accompanying photographs give some idea of the hotel and its cottages, together with some Al-Tahoe homes. The water supply for the town and hotel is gained from beautiful and pure Star Lake, 3000 feet higher than Lake Tahoe, and where snow may be seen during the entire year. The Al-Tahoe Company owns its own electric generating plant and supplies all the cottages with electric light.
The hotel itself is conducted on the American plan, and in every modern way meets the requirements of the most exacting patrons. Amusements of every kind are provided, and there is a good livery stable and automobile garage.
The town itself is being built up with a select class of summer residents. No saloons are allowed. There are still desirable lots for sale, and the Al-Tahoe Company, or L.H. Bannister, the Postmaster, will be glad to correspond with any who contemplate purchasing or building. Letters may be addressed to either at Al-Tahoe, Lake Tahoe, Calif.
CHAPTER XXIII
GLEN ALPINE SPRINGS
The earliest of all the resorts of the Tahoe region away from the shores of Tahoe itself, Glen Alpine Springs still retains its natural supremacy. Located seven miles away from Tallac, reached by excellent roads in automobile stages, sequestered and sheltered, yet absolutely in the very heart of the most interesting part of the Tahoe region, scenically and geologically, it continues to attract an increasing number of the better class of guests that annually visit these divinely-favored California Sierras. John Muir wrote truthfully when he said:
The Glen Alpine Springs tourist resort seems to me one of the most delightful places in all the famous Tahoe region. From no other valley, as far as I know, may excursions be made in a single day to so many peaks, wild gardens, glacier lakes, glacier meadows, and Alpine groves, cascades, etc.
The drive from Tallac around Fallen Leaf Lake under trees whose boles form arch or portal, framing pictures of the sunny lake, is a memorable experience; then on past Glen Alpine Falls, Lily Lake, and Modjeska Falls, up the deep mountain glen, where the road ends at the hospitable cottages, log-houses and spacious tents of Glen Alpine.
[Illustration: Mount Tallac, Rubicon Peaks, etc., from Long Wharf at Al Tahoe, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: Al Tahoe Inn and Cottages, on Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: Murphey Cottage, Al Tahoe, on Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: Porterfield Cottage, Al Tahoe, on Lake Tahoe]
Here is the world-famous spring, discovered in the ‘fifties by Nathan Gilmore (for whom Gilmore Lake is named). Mr. Gilmore was born in Ohio, but, when a mere youth, instead of attending college and graduating in law as his parents had arranged for and expected, he yielded to the lure of the California gold excitement, came West, and in 1850 found himself in Placerville. In due time he married, and to the sickness of his daughter Evelyn, now Mrs. John L. Ramsay, of Freewater, Ore., is owing his discovery of Glen Alpine. The doctor ordered him to bring the child up into the mountains. Accompanied by an old friend, Barton Richardson, of the James Barton Key family of Philadelphia, he came up to Tallac, with the ailing child and its mother. Being of active temperament he and Mr. Richardson scaled Mt. Tallac, and in returning were much entranced by Fallen Leaf Lake. Later Mr. Gilmore came to Fallen Leaf alone, wandering over its moraines and lingering by its shores to drink in its impressive and growingly-overpowering beauty. In those days there was no road at the southern end of Fallen Leaf and the interested explorer was perforce led to follow the trails of bear, deer and other wild animals. Rambling through the woods, some two miles above the lake he came to a willow-surrounded swampy place, where the logs and fallen trees were clearly worn by the footprints of many generations of wild animals. Prompted by curiosity he followed the hidden trail, saw where a small stream of mineral-stained water was flowing, observed where the deer, etc., had licked the stones, and finally came to the source in what he afterwards called Glen Alpine Springs. Scientific observation afterwards showed that the water had an almost uniform temperature, even in the hottest days of summer, of 39.6 degrees Fahr., and that there was free carbonic acid gas to the extent of 138.36 cubic inches. The analysis revealed that each U.S. gallon contained grains as follows:
Sodium Chloride ………… 21.17
Sodium Carbonate ……….. 32.75
Potassium Carbonate …….. Trace
Ferrous Carbonate……….. 1.8
Alumnia ……………….. 1.43
Borates ……………….. Trace
Magnesium Carbonate ……… 9.96
Calcium Carbonate ……….. 45.09 Calcium Sulphate ………… 4.10
Silica …………………. 2.50
Organic Matter…………… Trace ——
Total Solids……………. 118.80
The water is pleasant to the taste, and, as has been shown, highly charged with carbonic acid gas; its action is diuretic, laxative and stimulative to the entire digestive tract. Eminent physicians claim that it is beneficial in dyspepsia, torpid liver, kidney and bladder irritation, and is also a tonic.
Whether this be true or not I cannot say, but I do know that every time I go to Glen Alpine I drink freely and abundantly of the water, to my great physical pleasure and satisfaction. It is one of the most delicious sparkling waters I have ever tasted, as gratifying to the palate and soothing to the fevered mucous membranes as Apollinaris or Shasta Water, and I am not alone in the wish I often express, viz., that I might have such a spring in my backyard at home.
One result of this discovery was that Mr. Gilmore decided to locate upon the land. As soon as the first claim was made secure a rude one-roomed cabin was built and Mr. Richardson was the first guest. Preparatory to bringing his family, Mr. Gilmore added two more rooms, and to render ingress easier he built a road to intersect with the Tallac road at the northern end of Fallen Leaf Lake. As this had to be blasted out with black powder,–it was before the days of dynamite,–Mr. Gilmore’s devotion to the place can be well understood.
When his daughters grew up, they and their friends came here to spend their summers, and by and by, almost unconsciously, but pleasantly and agreeably, the place became a public resort. Though Mr. Gilmore has long since passed on, having died in Placerville, Calif., in the year 1898, Glen Alpine Springs is still in the ownership of his family, and its management and direction is entirely in their hands.
As in the beginning they have ever sought to preserve its character of simplicity. It is their aim that everything should be as primitive as possible, consonant with healthfulness, privacy and comfort. While no sanitary precautions are neglected, and water, hot and cold, is extravagantly provided, with free shower baths, there are none of the frills and furbelows that generally convert these–what should be–simple nature resorts into bad imitations of the luxurious hotels of the city. There are positively no dress events. Men and women are urged to bring their old clothes and wear them out here, or provide only khaki or corduroy, with short skirts, bloomers and leggings for the fair sex. Strong shoes are required; hob-nailed if one expects to do any climbing. Wraps for evening, and heavy underwear for an unusual day (storms sometimes come in Sierran regions unexpectedly), are sensible precautions.
Sleeping out-of-doors is one of the features of the place, an invigorating, rejuvenating joy, which Mark Twain affirmed was able to destroy any amount of fatigue that a person’s body could gather. Visitors are given their choice of a comfortable bed in the open, in a cottage, tent, or one of the main buildings. There are practically no rules at Glen Alpine save those that would operate in any respectable home. No liquors are sold, and visitors are frankly told that “If they must have liquid stimulants they must bring them along.” In order that those who desire to sleep may not be disturbed by the thoughtlessness of others, music is prohibited after ten o’clock. One of the delights of the place is the nightly camp-fire. Here is a large open space, close to the spring, surrounded by commodious and comfortable canvas seats, that will easily hold eight or ten persons, the blazing fire is started every evening. Those who have musical instruments–guitars, banjos, mandolins, flutes, cornets, violins, and even the plebeian accordion or the modest Jew’s-harp–are requested to bring them. Solos, choruses, hymns and college songs are indulged in to the heart’s content. Now and again dances are given, and when any speaker arrives who is willing to entertain the guests, a talk, lecture or sermon is arranged for.
Three things are never found at Glen Alpine. These are poison-oak, rattlesnakes and poisonous insects. The rowdy, gambling and carousing element are equally absent, for should they ever appear, they speedily discover their lack of harmony and voluntarily retire.
While the Glen Alpine resort is not situated directly on one of the lakes, it owns over twenty boats on eight of the nearby lakes, and the use of these is freely accorded to its guests. That it is in close proximity to lakes and peaks is evidenced by the following table, which gives the distance in miles from the hotel:
_Miles_
2-1/2 Angora Lake
4 American Lake
6 Avalanche Lake
3-1/4 Alta Morris Lake
7 Azure Lake
5 Center Lake
5-1/2 Crystal Lake
5-3/4 Crater Lake
6 Cup Lake
4-3/4 Cathedral Lake
5-1/2 Echo Lake
2 Fallen Leaf Lake
5-1/4 Floating Island Lake
4-1/4 Forest Lake
6 Fontinalis Lake
1-1/4 Glen Alpine Falls
1-1/4 Grass Lake
4-3/4 Grouse Lake
3-1/2 Glmore Lake
3-1/4 Heather Lake
3-1/4 Half Moon Lake
5 Kalmia Lake
1 Lily Lake
2-1/4 Lucile Lake
3-3/4 LeConte Lake
2-1/2 Margery Lake
1/4 Modjeska Falls
3-1/2 Observation Point
4-1/4 Olney Lake
4-1/4 Pit Lake
6 Pyramid Lake
4-3/4 Rainbow Lake
2-3/4 Susie Lake
3-1/2 Susie Lake Falls
2-3/4 Summit Lake
6 Snow Lake
[Illustration: Cluster of Tents, Glen Alpine Springs]
[Illustration: Glen Alpine Falls, Near Glen Alpine Springs]
[Illustration: In the ‘Good Old Days’. Glen Alpine Stage approaching Office at Glen Alpine Springs]
_Miles_
4-1/4 Tamarack Lake
6 Tallac Lake
7 Tahoe Lake
6-1/2 Velma Lakes
3-1/4 Woods, Lake of the
3-1/2 Angora Peak
5-1/4 Dicks Peak
5-1/2 Jacks Peak
2-1/2 Keiths Dome
7 Pyramid Peak
6-1/2 Ralston Peak
3-3/4 Richardsons Peak
5 Upper Truckee River
4-3/4 Mt. Tallac
7 Mt. Agassiz
3 Cracked Crag
As the proprietors of Glen Alpine ask: “Where else outside of Switzerland is there a like region of lakes (forty-odd) and world of Sierran grandeur, such air with the tonic of altitude, mineral-spring water, trout-fishing, and camaraderie of kindred spirits!”
While the foregoing list gives a comprehensive suggestion of the wide reach of Glen Alpine’s territory there are several especial peaks and lakes that are peculiarly its own. These are Pyramid, Agassiz, Dicks, Jacks, Richardsons, Ralston, and the Angora Peaks, Mount Tallac, Mosquito Pass, and Lakes Olney, LeConte, Heather, Susie, Grass, Lucile, Margery, and Summit with Lake of the Woods and others in Desolation Valley, Gilmore, Half Moon, Alta, Morris, Lily, Tamarack, Rainbow, Grouse, and the Upper and Lower Echo. Desolation Valley and all its surroundings is also within close reach. This is some four miles westward of Glen Alpine Springs, and is reached by way of easy mountain trails under sweet-scented pines and gnarled old junipers; besides singing streams; across crystal lakes, through a cliff-guarded glade where snowbanks linger until midsummer, ever renewing the carpet of green, decking it with heather and myriad exquisite mountain blossoms. On, over a granite embankment, and lo! your feet are stayed and your heart is stilled as your eyes behold marvelous Desolation Valley. Greeting you on its southern boundary stands majestic Pyramid Peak, with its eternal snows. Lofty companions circling to your very feet make the walls forming the granite cradle of Olney, the Lake of Mazes. The waters are blue as the skies above them, and pure as the melting snows from Pyramid which form them. He who has not looked upon this, the most remarkable of all the wonder pictures in the Tahoe region, has missed that for which there is no substitute.
The whole Glen Alpine basin,–which practically extends from the Tallac range on the north, from Heather Lake Pass (the outlet from Desolation Valley) and Cracked Crag on the west and southwest, Ralston Peak and range to the south and the Angora Peaks on the east,–is one mass of glacial scoriations. Within a few stone-throws of the spring, on a little-used trail to Grass Lake, there are several beautiful and interesting markings. One of these is a finely defined curve or groove, extending for 100 feet or more, above which, about 11/2 feet, is another groove, some two to four feet wide. These run rudely parallel for some distance, then unite and continue as one. Coming back to the trail–a hundred or so feet away,–on the left hand side returning to the spring, is a gigantic sloping granite block, perfectly polished with glacial action, and black as though its surface had been coated in the process. Near here the trail _ducks_ or markers are placed in a deep grooving or trough three or four feet wide, and of equal depth, while to the right are two other similar troughs working their winding and tortuous way into the valley beneath.
In Chapter VIII an idea is given of the movements of the great glaciers that formed Desolation Valley and all the nearby lakes, as well as Glen Alpine basin. These gigantic ice-sheets, with their firmly-wedged carving blocks of granite, moved over the Heather Lake Pass, gouging out that lake, and Susie Lake, in its onward march, and then, added to by glacial flows from Cracked Crag, the southern slopes of the Tallac range, and the Angora Peaks, it passed on and down, shaping this interestingly rugged, wild and picturesque basin as we find it to-day. How many centuries of cutting and gouging, beveling and grooving were required to accomplish this, who can tell? Never resting, never halting, ever moving, irresistibly cutting, carving, grinding and demolishing, it carried away its millions of millions of tons of rocky debris in bowlders, pebbles, sand and mud, and thus helped make the gigantic moraines of Fallen Leaf Lake. The ice-flow itself passed along over where the terminal moraine now stands, cutting out Fallen Leaf Lake basin in its movement, and finally rested in the vast bowl of Lake Tahoe.
To the careful student every foot of Glen Alpine basin is worthy of study, and he who desires to further the cause of science will do well to make a map of his observations, recording the direction, appearance, depth, length and width of all the glacial markings he discovers. On the U.S. Government maps the stream flowing through Glen Alpine basin is marked as Eau Claire Creek. To the proprietors of Glen Alpine, and the visitors, the French name is absurd and out of place. No Frenchman has ever resided here, and if it was desired to call it Clear Water Creek, why not use good, understandable, common-sense English. At the request of those most intimately concerned, therefore, the name has been changed on the map that accompanies this volume, to Glen Alpine Creek, a name that “belongs” and to which no one can possibly have any objection.
CHAPTER XXIV
FALLEN LEAF LAKE AND ITS RESORTS
Fallen Leaf Lake is a noble body of water, three and a half miles long and about one mile across. Why it is called Fallen Leaf is fully explained in the chapter on Indian Legends. Some people have thought it was named from its shape, but this cannot be, for, from the summit of Mt. Tallac, every one instantly notices its resemblance to the imprint of a human foot. It is shaped more like a cork-sole, as if cut out of the solid rock, filled up with a rich indigo-blue fluid, and then made extra beautiful and secluded with a rich tree and plant growth on every slope that surrounds it.
The color of the water is as richly blue as is Tahoe itself, and there is the same suggestion of an emerald ring around it, as in the larger Lake, though this ring is neither so wide nor so highly colored.
In elevation it is some 80 feet above Lake Tahoe, thus giving it an altitude of 6300 feet.
At the upper end, near Fallen Leaf Lodge, under the cliffs it has a depth of over 380 feet, but it becomes much shallower at the northern or lower end near the outlet. Its surroundings are majestic and enthralling as well as picturesque and alluring. On the west Mt. Tallac towers its nearly 10,000 feet into the sea of the upper air, flanked on the south by the lesser noble and majestic Cathedral Peak. In the earlier part of the season when these are covered with snow, the pure white materially enhances the splendor of both mountain and lake by enriching their varied colorings with the marked contrast.
[Illustration: Glen Alpine Falls]
[Illustration: Glimpse of Grass Lake, looking across and up Glen Alpine Canyon]
[Illustration: The Triumphant Angler, Lake Tahoe]
To the southwest rise the Angora Peaks, and these likewise catch, and hold the winter’s snow, often, like Mt. Tallac, retaining beds of _neve_ from year to year.
To the geological student, especially one interested in glacial phenomena, the lateral and terminal moraines of Fallen Leaf Lake are of marked and unusual interest. The moraine on the east is upwards of 1000 feet high, and is a majestic ridge, clothed from the lake shore to its summit with a rich growth of pines, firs and hemlocks. Its great height and bulk will suggest to the thoughtful reader the questions as to how it was formed, and whence came all the material of its manufacture. It extends nearly the whole length of the lake, diminishing somewhat in size at the northern end. There is a corresponding moraine on the western side not less compelling in its interest though scarcely as large in size as its eastern counterpart. The terminal moraine, which is the one that closed up the lake, separating and raising it above the level of Lake Tahoe, is a less noble mound, yet geologically it allures the mind and demands study as much as the others. In Chapter VIII, Dr. Joseph LeConte’s theories are given in full explaining the various glacial phenomena connected with this lake.
The fish of Fallen Leaf are practically the same as those of Tahoe, though rod and fly fishing is more indulged in here.
Boating, canoeing and the use of the motor boat are daily recreations, and swimming is regularly indulged in during the summer season.
FALLEN LEAF LODGE
The distinguishing characteristics of this resort are simplicity, home-likeness, unostentation. It makes its appeal especially to the thoughtful and the studious, the not luxuriously rich, those who love Nature rather than the elegance of a first-class hotel, and who desire to climb trails, study trees, hunt, fish, and generally recreate out-of-doors rather than dress and fare sumptuously.
It is situated on the southwestern edge of Fallen Leaf Lake, five miles from Tallac, reached by a road that winds through the trees of the Baldwin estate, and then skirts the eastern and southern shores of the Lake. Stages–horse and automobile–run daily during the season and meet all the steamers at Tallac.
The “Lodge” consists of a number of detached buildings, conveniently and picturesquely scattered among the pines on the slopes and at the edge of the lake. There are dining hall, social hall, post office, store, electric power-house, boat-house, with stables far enough away to be sanitary, and cottages and tents located in every suitable nook that can be found. There are one, two or three-roomed cottages, tents, single and double, all in genuine camp style. There is no elegance or luxury, though most of the cottages have modern toilets, porcelain bath-tubs with running hot and cold water. Electric lights are everywhere.
The camp has been in existence now (1915) for seven years and each year has seen considerable enlargement and improvement, until now Fallen Leaf Lodge in the heart of the summer season is an active, busy, happy and home-like community.
The table is wholesome, substantial and appetizing. There is no pretense at elaborateness. Home-cooking, well served, of simple and healthful dishes, in reasonable variety, is all that is offered.
Needless to say there is no bar or saloon, though there is no attempt to compel a personal standpoint on the liquor question upon those who are accustomed to the use of alcoholic liquors at meals.
In its natural beauties and advantages Fallen Leaf Lodge claims–and with strong justification–one of the very best of locations. Fallen Leaf Lake is large enough to give scope to all the motor-boats, row-boats, canoes and launches that are likely to be brought to it for the next hundred years, and ten thousand fishermen could successfully angle upon its bosom or along its shores. For millions of Tahoe trout, rainbow, Eastern brook, Loch Levin, Mackinac and German brown have been put into this and nearby lakes in the last few years. While some jerk-line fishing is indulged in, this lake, unlike Lake Tahoe, affords constant recreation for the more sportsmanlike fly-fishing.
Another of the special advantages of Fallen Leaf Lodge is its possession of a fine log-house and camp on the shore of Lake of the Woods, five miles away, in Desolation Valley. To those who wish to fish in greater solitude, to climb the peaks of the Crystal Range, or boat over the many and various lakes of Desolation Valley this is a great convenience.
Nothing can surpass the calm grandeur of the setting of this glorious beautiful water. Lying at the lower edge of Desolation Valley and facing stupendous mountains, the picture it presents, with Pyramid Peak reflected in its gorgeously lit-up sunset waters, is one that will forever linger in the memory.
The close proximity of Fallen Leaf Lodge to Mt. Tallac, Cathedral Peak, the Angora Peaks, Mounts Jack, Dick, and Richardson, Ralston Peak, Keith’s Dome, Maggie’s Peaks, Tell’s Peak, with the towering peaks of the Crystal Range–Pyramid and Agassiz–to the west, and Freel’s, Job’s and Job’s Sister to the southeast, afford an abundance and variety of mountain-climbing that are seldom found in any region, however favored.
But in addition to the peaks there are Sierran lakes galore, rich in unusual beauty and picturesqueness, and most of them stocked with trout that compel the exertion of the angler’s skill, as much as tickle the palate of the uncorrupted epicure. Close by are Cascade, Cathedral, Floating Island, Echo, Heather, Lucile, Margery, Gilmore, Le Conte, Lily, Susie, Tamarack, Grouse, Lake of the Woods, Avalanche, Pit, Crystal, Pyramid, Half Moon, with the marvelous and alluring maze of lakes, bays, straits, channels, inlets and “blind alleys” of the Lake Olney of the ever-fascinating Desolation Valley. And those I have named are all within comparatively easy walking distance to the ordinarily healthful and vigorous man or woman. For those who seek more strenuous exercise, or desire horse-back or camping-out trips another twenty, aye fifty lakes, within a radius of fifty miles may be found, with their connecting creeks, streams and rivers where gamey trout abound, and where flowers, shrubs and trees in never-ceasing variety and charm tempt the botanist and nature-lover.
While to some it may not be an attraction, to others there may be both pleasure and interest in witnessing the operations of the Fallen Leaf sawmill. This is situated on the western side of the lake, and is a scene of activity and bustle when logging and lumbering are in progress. On the hills about the lake the “fellers” may be found, chopping their way into the hearts of the forest monarchs of pine, fir and cedar, and then inserting the saw, whose biting teeth soon cut from rim to rim and cause the crashing downfall of trees that have stood for centuries. Denuded of their limbs these are then sawn into appropriate lengths, “snaked” by chains pulled by powerful horses to the “chute”, down which they are shot into the lake, from whence they are easily towed to the mill. The chute consists of felled logs, laid side by side, evenly and regularly, so as to form a continuous trough. This is greased, so that when the heavy logs are placed therein they slide of their own weight, where there is a declivity, and are easily dragged or propelled on the level ground.
[Illustration: Boating on Fallen Leaf Lake]
[Illustration: Fallen Leaf Lodge Among the Pines, on Fallen Leaf Lake]
[Illustration: Camp Agassiz Boys setting out for a Trip, Lake Tahoe, Cal. Copyright 1910, by Harold A. Parker.]
[Illustration: Tahoe Meadows, With Mt. Tallac in the Distance]
I use the word propelled to suggest the interesting method used in these chutes. Sometimes ten or a dozen logs will be placed, following each other, a few feet apart, on the trough (the chute). A chain is fastened to the rear end of the hindermost log. This chain is attached to a single-tree fastened to a horse’s harness. The horse is started. This makes the hinder log strike the next one, this bumps into the third and gives it a start, in its turn it bumps the fourth, the fourth the fifth, and so on, until the whole dozen are in motion. Had the string of logs been fastened together, the horse would have found it impossible to move them, but “propelling” them in this fashion they are all set in motion, and their inertia once overcome there is no difficulty experienced in keeping them going.
The views from Fallen Leaf Lodge are varied and beautiful, one in particular being especially enchanting. Over the Terminal moraine, across the hidden face of Lake Tahoe, the eye falls upon the mountains in Nevada, on the far-away eastern side. In the soft light of evening they look like fairy mountains, not real rocky masses of gigantic, rugged substance, but something painted upon the horizon with delicate fingers, and in tints and shades to correspond, for they look tenderer and sweeter, gentler and lovelier than anything man could conceive or execute.
The owner of Fallen Leaf Lodge is Professor William W. Price, a graduate of Stanford University, who first came into this region to study and catch special Sierran birds and other fauna for the Smithsonian Institution, the American Museum of Natural History, and the British Museum. Later, when he founded the Agassiz school for boys, at Auburn, California, he established Camp Agassiz near Fallen Leaf Lake, in a grove of pines, firs, and cedars. Assisted by other university men he made of this an ideal open-air school and camp for boys. They were taught such practical things as to take care of themselves in the mountains, find a trail, or go to a given spot without a trail, fish, hunt, make camp, build fires in a rain-storm, find proper shelter during a lightning-storm, carry a pack, pack a mule or burro, even to the throwing of the “diamond hitch,” the “squaw hitch,” and the “square” or other packer’s especial “knots” and “ties”. They were induced to climb mountains, row, swim, “ski”, and snow-slide, and all were taught to recognize at sight the common birds, smaller wild animals, trees, and flowers. Frequent camping-out trips were arranged for, and the youngsters thus gained health, vigor and permanent strength while doing what they all enjoyed doing.
In due time the parents wished to share the fun, joy, and out-of-door experiences of their youngsters; then the friends, and those who heard about them, and out of the numerous requests for accommodations Fallen Leaf Lodge was born. For a time Mr. Price tried an ordinary hotel manager, but the peculiar and individualistic needs of his peculiar and individualistic camp at length led Mrs. Price and himself to take the complete control. From that time its success has been continuous.
Mr. Price is a scientific expert upon the flora (especially the trees), the birds and the four-footed fauna of the whole region, and his readiness and willingness to communicate his knowledge to his guests is a great advantage to the studious and inquiring.
Owing to the demands made upon his time by the management of Fallen Leaf Lodge Mr. Price has transferred his school into other hands, and has given up the Boys’ Camp, though the lads are still welcome, with their parents, as regular guests at the Lodge.
It should be noted that Fallen Leaf Lodge is but two miles from Glen Alpine Springs and that all that is said of the close proximity of the most interesting features of the southern end of the Lake Tahoe region to Glen Alpine, applies with equal force (plus the two miles) to Fallen Leaf Lodge.
CATHEDRAL PARK ON FALLEN LEAF LAKE
One of the newest of the Tahoe region resorts is that of Cathedral Park, located on the western side of Fallen Leaf Lake. It was opened in the latter part of the season of 1912 by Carl Fluegge. Everything about it is new, from the flooring of the tents to the fine dining-room, cottages and stables. A special road has been constructed on the west side of the lake, over which Cathedral Park stages run daily the three and a half miles, to meet every steamer during the season at Tallac.
Rising directly from the edge of the lake, surrounded by majestic trees, protected by the gigantic height of Mt. Tallac (9785 feet) from the western winds, a clear open view of Fallen Leaf Lake and the thousand-feet high lateral moraine on the eastern side is obtained; there could be no better location for such a resort.
The distinctive features of Cathedral Park are simplicity and home-comforts, with special advantages for hunting, fishing and camping out. For ten years Mr. Fluegge has taken out some of the most distinguished patrons of the Tahoe region in his capacity as expert guide and huntsman. He knows every trail thoroughly and has scaled every mountain of the surrounding country. He knows the habits and haunts of bear, deer, and other game, and is a successful hunter of them, as well as of grouse and quail. His office and social-hall bear practical evidence of his prowess and skill in the mounted heads of deer, and the dressed skins of bear that he has shot. He is also an expert angler, and well acquainted with the best fishing in Granite, Eagle, the Rock-Bound, Gilmore and other lakes, as well as those closer at hand. There are twelve such lakes within easy reach of Cathedral Park. Fishing and hunting are his hobbies and delights, hence he makes a thoroughly competent, because interested, and interesting guide. Nothing pleases him more than to get out with his guests and assist them in their angling and hunting. To aid in this he has established his own permanent camp at the beautiful Angora Lakes, four miles from Cathedral Park, which is placed freely at the disposal of his guests.
Especial arrangements are made for the perfect and satisfactory accommodation of guests who desire to sleep out of doors. Tents, sleeping porches and platforms are arranged with a view to the strictest privacy, and those who desire this healthful open-air mode of life can nowhere be better accommodated than here. As Mark Twain has said, it is the “open air” sleeping in the Lake Tahoe region that is so beneficial. Again to quote him: “The air up there in the clouds is very pure and fine, bracing and delicious. And why shouldn’t it be?–it is the same the angels breathe. I think that hardly any amount of fatigue can be gathered together that a man cannot sleep off in one night here. _Not under a roof, but under the sky_.” Therefore Cathedral Park says to those who wish to breathe the same air as the angels while they are yet on the earth: Come to us and we will meet your reasonable wishes in every possible way.
[Illustration: Picturesque Palo Alto Lodge, at Lakeside Park, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: The Long Wharf at Lakeside Park, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: Automobile Road Around Cave Rock, Lake Tahoe]
The presence of Mrs. Fluegge, who is associated with her husband in the management, guarantees to ladies, whether unaccompanied, or with their families, the best of care, and the former are especially invited to come and test the homelike qualities of the place.
The water supply of Cathedral Park is gained from its own springs, on the mountain side above the resort. It is piped down to every tent or cottage and the supply is superabundant. Fish are caught almost daily on the landing in front of the hotel. Fallen Leaf is an ideal spot for rowing, canoeing, and launch rides, and the hotel owns its own launch in which parties are regularly taken around the lake. During the summer season bathing is as delightful here as in any of the seaside resorts of the Atlantic and Pacific, and almost every one takes a plunge daily.
A camp-fire is built every night, where singing, storytelling, and open air amusements of an impromptu nature are indulged in to one’s heart’s content, though visitors are all expected to remember the rights of others and not keep too late hours.
Informal dances are indulged in occasionally and everything is done to promote the comfort, pleasure and enjoyment of the guests that earnest desire, constant watchfulness and long experience can suggest.
The table is simple and homelike, but abundant, well-served and satisfactory. This department is entirely under the control of Mrs. Fluegge, who never employs any other than white help in the kitchen. Fresh fruit and vegetables, lake trout and game in season, fresh milk and cream, with everything of the best that the markets afford, are none too good for the guests at Cathedral Park.
Unlike most of the Lake Tahoe resorts, it keeps open throughout the whole year, and is managed with but one idea, viz., to give absolute and complete satisfaction to all its guests.
Its rates are reasonable, and especial prices are given to children under ten years of age and to families who wish to stay for any length of time.
The short trail to Mount Tallac rises directly from Cathedral Park, and all that has been said of the close proximity of Glen Alpine and Fallen Leaf Lodge to the most interesting peaks, lakes, etc., of the Tahoe region applies with equal force to Cathedral Park, plus the short additional distance, which is something less than a mile.
Mr. Fluegge will be glad to correspond with those contemplating a visit to Cathedral Park, especially should they desire his services for hunting, fishing, or camping-out trips of a few days or a month’s duration. The address is Cathedral Park, Tallac P.O., Lake Tahoe, California.
CHAPTER XXV
LAKESIDE PARK
Situated on the shore of Lake Tahoe and at the same time on the great Lincoln Highway stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific,–a division of the State Automobile Highway reaching from Sacramento, California, to Carson City, Nevada, via Placerville, Lakeside Park is readily reached by travelers from every direction, whether they come by steamer, buggy, or automobile. The Lakeside Park hotel was established in 1892 and has an enviable reputation. It consists of hotel, with adjacent cottages and tents, comfortably furnished and equipped with every healthful necessity. Here surrounded by beautiful trees, that sing sweet songs to the touch of the winds, drinking in health and vigor from their balsamic odors, enjoying the invigorating sunshine and the purifying breezes coming from mountain, forest and Lake, swimming in the Lake, rowing, canoeing, climbing mountain trails, exploring rocky and wooded canyons, fishing, hunting, botanizing, studying geology in one of the most wonderful volumes Nature has ever written, sleeping out-of-doors under the trees and the glowing stars after being lulled to rest by the soothing lappings of the gentle waves upon the beach–who can conceive a more ideal vacation-time than this.
Unlike many parts of Lake Tahoe, Lakeside Park possesses a fine stretch of beautiful, clean, sandy beach. There are no rocks, deep holes, tide or undertow. Children can wade, bathe or swim in perfect safety as the shore gradually slopes into deeper water.
The whole settlement is abundantly supplied with purest spring water which is piped down from its source high on the mountain slopes to the south. The hotel is fully equipped with hot and cold water for baths and all other needed purposes, and there is a good store, well stocked livery stable, row-boats, steam laundry and home dairy.
The store carries a very complete line of provisions and supplies, fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, dairy-produce, ice, hay, grain, lumber, shingles, stove-wood, paints, gasoline–in fact, everything that is likely to be in demand in such a community. Camp-fire wood is abundant and free to patrons. This is particularly advantageous for those who wish to tent and “board themselves.” Housekeeping tents are provided, on platforms in the grove, at reasonable rates, and the hotel owns its pasture in which the horses of patrons are cared for free of charge.
The location of Lakeside Park in relation to Lake Tahoe is peculiarly advantageous in that it affords daily opportunity for driving, horseback-riding or walking directly along the shore for miles. Indeed the twelve mile drive to Glenbrook is one of the noted drives of the world, taking in the celebrated Cave Rock, and giving the widest possible outlooks of the whole expanse of the Lake.
Patrons of the hotel or camps are assured that there are no rattlesnakes, fleas, malaria, fogs, or poison oak. The character and tone of the place will also be recognized when it is known that saloons and gambling resorts are absolutely prohibited in the residential tract.
The most majestic of all the mountains of Lake Tahoe are closely adjacent to Lakeside Park. Mt. Sinclair, 9500 feet, rises immediately from the eastern boundary, whilst Monument Peak, Mounts Freel, Job, and Job’s Sister, ranging from 10,000 to 11,200 feet above sea level are close by. Such near proximity to these mountains gives unequalled opportunities for tramping, riding and driving through and over marvelous diversity of hill, valley, woodland, canyon and mountain. Scores of miles of mountain trails remain to be thoroughly explored and to the hunter these highest mountains are the most alluring spots of the whole Tahoe Region.
Yet while these mountains are close by Lakeside Park is near enough to Fallen Leaf Lake, Glen Alpine Springs and Desolation Valley to give fullest opportunity for trips to these noted spots and their adjacent attractions.
In addition it allows ready incursions into Nevada, where the prehistoric footprints at Carson City, the marvelous Steamboat Springs, and the world-famed mines and Sutro Tunnel of Virginia City have been a lure for many thousands during the past decades. It is also near to Hope Valley and the peak on which Fremont climbed when, in 1844, he discovered and first described Lake Tahoe, and is the natural stopping-place for those who wish to go over the road the Pathfinder made, accompanied by Kit Carson, his guide and scout, whose name is retained in Carson City, Carson Tree, Carson Valley and Carson Canyon, all of which are within a day’s easy ride.
PRIVATE RESIDENCES AT LAKESIDE PARK
To meet the ever-increasing demand for lots on which to build summer homes on Lake Tahoe the Lakeside Park Company has set aside a limited and desirable portion of its large property on the southeasterly shore of Lake Tahoe for cottages and log cabins, bungalows and lodges, or acre tracts for chalets and villas. Already quite a number have availed themselves of this privilege and a colony of beautiful homes is being established. Mr. and Mrs. Hill, with a keen eye for the appropriate, and at the same time wishful to show how a most perfect bungalow can be constructed at a remarkably low price, have planned and erected several most attractive “specimens” or “models,” at prices ranging from $450 to $1000 and over. The fact that the tract is so located in an _actual_, not merely a nominal, wooded park, where pines, firs, tamaracks and other Sierran trees abound, allow the proprietors to offer fine logs for cabins and rustic-work in almost unlimited quantities, and in the granite-ribbed mountains close by is a quarry from which rock for foundations, chimneys and open fireplaces may be taken without stint. These are great advantages not to be ignored by those who desire to build, and those who are first on the scene naturally will be accorded the first choice both of lots and material.
There is but one Lake Tahoe in America, and as the men of California and Nevada cities find more time for leisure it will not be many years before every available spot will be purchased and summer residences abound, just as is the case in the noted eastern lakes, or those near to such cities as Minneapolis, etc., in the middle west.
In setting aside this residential section at Lakeside Park the owners have planned with far-sighted and generous liberality. The Lake frontage is reserved for general use of the hotel guests and cottage community, so there will be no conflict regarding privileges of boating, bathing, fishing, and “rest cure” on the beach. Another wise provision is that a generous portion of the amounts received from early sales of lots is being devoted to general improvements that are for mutual benefit; such as the extension of roads, paths, trails and water-pipes, a substantial breakwater for better protection of launches and boats, larger dancing-pavilion or platform, automobile garage, more dressing rooms for bathers, etc.
CHAPTER XXVI
GLENBROOK AND MARLETTE LAKE
In Chapter XVI the history of Glenbrook is given in some detail. It is now, however, converted into a pleasure resort especially popular with residents of Nevada, and largely used by automobiles crossing the Sierras and passing around Lake Tahoe.
The Inn, and its veranda overlooking the Lake, is built with an eye to comfort and convenience. Every need for pleasure and recreation is arranged for. For those who enjoy privacy, cozy cottages are provided, around which beautiful wild flowers grow in wonderful profusion. The guests here are especially favored in that the Inn has its own ranch, dairy, poultry farm, fruit orchard and vegetable garden. The table, therefore, is abundantly provided, and everything is of known quality and brought in fresh daily.
Glenbrook Inn makes no pretense to be a fashionable resort. It especially invites those individuals and families who wish to be free from the exhausting “frivolities of fashion,” to come and enjoy to the full Nature’s simple charms, regardless of the city’s conventions as to dress and fashion. Rest and recreation, amusement and recuperation are the key-notes. Simplicity of life, abundance of sleep, sufficiency of good food, tastefully served, the chief hours of the day spent in the open air, fishing, boating, swimming, trail-climbing, horseback-riding, driving or automobiling,–these bring health, renewed energy and the joy of life.
The specific pleasures provided at Glenbrook are varied. It is confessedly the best place for fishing on the Lake. During the season the fishermen from all the resorts at the south end of the Lake bring their patrons over in this direction. The Inn has its own fleet of gasoline launches and row boats, with experienced men to handle them, and it supplies fishing-tackle free, but those who wish to use the rod must bring that with them. As is explained in the chapter on fishing the trout of Lake Tahoe are taken both by rod and “jerk-line” trolling. Near Glenbrook, however, the rod can be used to greater advantage than anywhere else, and catches of from one-half to thirty pounds are of daily occurrence.
While promiscuous fishing is not allowed now in the famous Marlette Lake, eight miles away, the patrons of Glenbrook Inn can always secure permits, without any vexatious inquiries or delays, and there an abundance of gamey trout of various species are caught.
The bathing facilities here are exceptionally good. There is a long stretch of sandy beach, which extends far out into the water, thus ensuring both warmth and safety to children as well as adults.
In mountain and trail climbing Glenbrook has a field all its own. The ride or drive to Marlette Lake is a beautiful one, and the climb to Marlette Peak not arduous. The chief mountain peaks easily reached from Glenbrook are Dubliss, Edith, and Genoa Peaks, which not only afford the same wonderful and entrancing views of Lake Tahoe that one gains from Freel’s, Mt. Tallac, Ellis and Watson’s Peaks, but in addition lay before the entranced vision the wonderful Carson Valley, with Mt. Davidson and other historic peaks on the eastern horizon.
The drive along the shore by the famous Cave Rock to Lakeside Park or Tallac is one that can be enjoyed daily, and for those who like driving through and over tree-clad hills, surrounded by majestic mountains, the drive over the Carson road is enchanting.
[Illustration: Glennbrook Inn, on Nevada side Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: Sunset at Glenbrook, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: by Harold A. Parker. Carnelian Bay, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: Cottage overlooking Carnelian Bay, Lake Tahoe]
It is at Glenbrook that the famous Shakspeare head is to be seen graphically described by John Vance Cheney, and quoted elsewhere (Chap. XVI).
TO MARLETTE LAKE FROM GLENBROOK
Marlette Lake and Peak are two of the attractive features to visitors at Glenbrook Inn. The trip can be made in a little over two hours, and as on the return it is down hill nearly all the way, the return trip takes a little less.
Leaving Glenbrook on the excellently kept macadamized road over which Hank Monk used to drive stage from Carson City, the eyes of the traveler are constantly observing new and charming features in the mountain landscape. The Lake with its peculiar attractions is left entirely behind, with not another glimpse of it until we stand on the flume at Lake Marlette. Hence it is a complete change of scenery, for now we are looking ahead to tree-clad summits where eagles soar and the sky shines blue.
About two and a half miles out we come to Spooner’s, once an active, bustling, roadside hotel, where in the lumbering and mining days teams lined the road four, six and eight deep. Now, nothing but a ramshackle old building remains to tell of its former greatness. Here we made a sharp turn to the left, leaving the main road and taking the special Marlette Lake road. We cross the grade of the abandoned railway–the rails, engines and equipment of which are now operating between Truckee and Tahoe–see in the distance the tunnel through which the trains used to take the lumber, and notice on the hill-sides the lines of the old flumes which used to convey the water to the reservoir on the other side of the tunnel, or bring water and lumber ready to be sent on the further journey down to Carson City.
My driver was in a reflective mood, and as he pointed these things out to me, made some sage and pertinent remarks about the peculiar features of some industries which required large expenditures to operate, all of which were useless in a comparatively short time. Mainly uphill the road continues through groves of cottonwood, by logged-over mountain slopes and sheep-inhabited meadows until the divide is reached. Here a very rapid down hill speedily brings us to the south edge of Marlette Lake. Skirting the southern end we follow the road to the caretaker’s house, tie our horses, and walk down to the dam, and then on the flume or by its side to a point overlooking Lake Tahoe, from which a marvelously expansive view is to be obtained. We return now to Marlette and while drinking a cup of coffee prepared for us by the hospitable caretaker, glean the following facts in regard to the history and uses of Marlette Lake.
Marlette is an artificial lake, fifteen hundred feet above the level of Lake Tahoe, and about three miles from its easterly shore. Its waters are conveyed by tunnel, flume, etc., over the mountains, the Washoe Valley and up the mountain again to Virginia City. Originally the only supply of water available for Virginia City was from a few springs and mining tunnels. This supply soon became insufficient and many tunnels were run into hills both north and south from Virginia for the express purpose of tapping water. These soon failed and it became necessary to look for a permanent supply to the main range of the Sierra Nevada twenty-five or more miles away. Accordingly the Virginia and Gold Hill Water Company called upon Mr. Hermann Schussler, the engineer under whose supervision the Spring Valley Water Works of San Francisco were constructed. After a careful survey of the ground he found water at Hobart Creek, in the mountains on the east side of Lake Tahoe, and in the spring of 1872, received orders to go ahead and install a water system. He ordered pipe made to fit every portion of the route. It had to pass across the deep depression of Washoe Valley with water at a perpendicular pressure of 1720 feet, equivalent to 800 pounds to the square inch.
The first operations were so successful that as needs grew the supply flume was extended eight and a half miles to Marlette Lake, thus making the total distance to Virginia City thirty-one and a half miles. This Lake was named after S.H. Marlette, formerly Surveyor General of Nevada, who was associated with W.S. Hobart, of San Francisco, the owner of the land and one of the original projectors of the Water Company. The site was a natural basin, the dam of which had been broken down or eroded centuries ago. A dam was built in 1875, and later raised eleven feet higher so as to afford more storage capacity. The area of the lake is now about 600 acres (before the heightening of the dam it was 300 acres), and its storage capacity is about two billion gallons.
When the supply was enlarged a second pipe was laid alongside the first with an equal capacity, each being able to convey 2,200,000 gallons every twenty-four hours. A third pipe was installed later. The second and third pipes were laid by the late Captain J.B. Overton, who was Superintendent of the Company for over thirty-two years. Captain Overton also extended the flume lines, constructed the tunnel through the mountain ridge, built the Marlette Lake dam and made many other improvements and extensions.
On leaving Marlette Lake through an opening at the lower portion of the dam the water is conducted five miles in a covered flume and thence through a tunnel four thousand feet long through the summit of the dividing ridge or rim of the Tahoe basin to its easterly side. From this point it is again conducted through covered flumes, together with water from Hobart Creek and other streams, to the intake of the pipes across Washoe Valley. These pipes are three in number, two twelve inch and one ten inch. The difference in elevation between the inlet and discharge from No. 1 and No. 2 pipes is 465 feet. The difference in elevation between the inlet and discharge of No. 3 pipe is 565 feet. The pipes are laid across Washoe Valley in the form of inverted syphons. At the lowest point in the valley, the perpendicular pressure is 1720 feet on No. 1 and No. 2 pipes and 1820 feet on No. 3 pipe. The pipe lines go up and down nine canyons in their course across the Valley. Each line is something over seven miles in length. The pressure gauges at Lake View, the point of heaviest pressure, register 820 lbs. on No. 1 and No. 2 pipes when filled, and 910 lbs. on No. 3 pipe when filled.
When this work was first contemplated many hydraulic engineers condemned the project as impossible, as never before had water been carried so far under such pressure. But the fact that the first pipes laid by Engineer Schussler are still in active use demonstrates the scientific and practical knowledge and skill with which he attacked the problem.
It is an interesting fact to note that, prior to the building of the dam, part of the water was used for “fluming” lumber and wood to Lake View, and also for a short period of time after the dam was constructed. But for the past twenty years this practice has been discontinued, the water being solely for the supply of Virginia City. The total cost of the work was about $3,500,000. The Company is now under the immediate and personal supervision of James M. Leonard. The flumes and pipe-lines have recently been rebuilt and repaired where necessary so that the entire system is in excellent condition and a high state of efficiency.
DUBLISS, EDITH AND GENOA PEAKS
The ride to these three peaks can easily be made in a day, and though they are all in reasonably close proximity, there are differences enough in their respective outlooks to make a visit to each of them enjoyable and profitable. With a good saddle-horse from the Glenbrook stables, a guide, and a lunch tied to the saddle, one may start out confident that a most delightful scenic trip is before him. The first hour’s riding is over the rocky and tree-clad slopes, far wilder and more rugged than one would imagine, rudely bordering the Lake southwards. Then turning east, hills and vales, flowery meads and dainty native nurseries of pines, firs and hemlocks enchant the eye. Reaching the summit of any one of the peaks, a wide expanse of Lake is offered, extending to the surrounding mountains north, south and west, but on Genoa Peak an additional charm is found in the close proximity of the Nevada Valley, and mountains to the eastward. The contrast between the richly clad Sierras and the apparently unclothed, volcanic Nevada mountains is remarkable.
CHAPTER XXVII
CARNELIAN BAY AND TAHOE COUNTRY CLUB
On making the circuit of the Lake the last stopping-place on the trip starting south, or the first when starting north and east, is Carnelian Bay. This is a new settlement rapidly coming into prominence because of the number of cottages and bungalows erected by their owners on their own lots. From early until late in the seasons of 1913 and 1914 the sounds of the saw and hammer were seldom still. The result is the growth of quite a summer settlement. Easy of access, either by train and steamer from Truckee, or by direct wagon or auto road via Truckee or the new boulevard from the south end of the Lake, Carnelian Bay attracts the real home-seeker. It has been the first section to fully realize what John LeConte has so ably set forth in another chapter on Tahoe as a Summer Residence. With the completion of the state highway around Lake Tahoe and the projected automobile route from Reno and Carson City, Carnelian Bay will be adjacent to the main arteries of travel. The proposed link of the Lincoln Highway around the north shore of the Lake will put Carnelian Bay directly on the great international auto road.
The beauties of Lake Tahoe can hardly be magnified to the people of the West. Those who have once viewed its wonders and its magnificence, who have for a season breathed its invigorating and stimulating atmosphere, who have caught the wily trout which abound in its waters, who have sailed, or rowed, or motor-boated over its indigo-blue surface, carry in memory pictures in comparison with which any word-picture would be inadequate and incomplete.
Hence the projectors of Carnelian Bay struck a popular note when, out of their 81-acre tract, they put on sale convenient-sized lots. Of these 75 were purchased almost immediately, and by 1914 there were over 45 homes, large and small, already erected. Every lot was sold to a purchaser who expressed his definite intention of speedily erecting a house, cottage or bungalow for his own use. Hence the community is of a selected class into which one may come with confidence and assurance of congenial associations.
While there is no hotel at present there are several cottages and bungalows especially erected for rent to transient guests, and a good store, together with its close proximity to Tahoe City and Tahoe Tavern, render a summer vacation here one of comfort, pleasure and perfect enjoyment.
PROJECTED TAHOE COUNTRY CLUB AT CARNELIAN
The increasing need exists among those who are familiar with the beauties and advantages of Lake Tahoe as a summer residence resort for accommodations for families or transients where the usual comforts of home may be obtained at a cost not prohibitive to the family of ordinary means. Last year no less than 80,000 persons visited Lake Tahoe. It is safe to say that this number will increase annually, particularly with added accommodations at the Lake and with better facilities for automobile travel. The proximity of Lake Tahoe to the coast cities and the cities of the Sierras and the Middle West makes it at once attractive to the business man who desires to spend his summer vacation where the family is located for the summer months.
The Tahoe Country Club is designed to meet the need. The incorporators have taken over in fee simple a beautiful tract embracing about 1500 feet of the beach at Carnelian Bay, California, perhaps the most attractive site on Lake Tahoe. It commands a view of the entire length of the Lake, looking toward the south, and embracing a magnificent panoramic view of the mountains beyond. This site contains approximately nine acres, and includes a natural inland harbor, making off from a protected bay. The beach is shallow, of clean sand, sloping down from easy terraces beautified by shade trees and lawns.
The plan of organization of the Tahoe Country Club is cooperative. Its benefits are to be shared by its members, their families, and such of their friends as they may invite to be guests of the club. The properties taken over by the incorporation, including the 1500 feet of beach front, harbor, wharf, and a system of water works already installed, together with the perpetual title to the water rights, is conservatively appraised at $30,000. This is held in fee, free from incumbrance.
The charter–or organizing–members of the club will be the investors in the bonds issued and secured on the real estate taken over by the incorporation. This bond issue, the redemption of which will be guaranteed by first mortgage on the properties, will be for $20,000. These will be in denominations of $100 each, bearing six per cent. interest after two years from June 1, 1914, and will be redeemable, at the option of the mortgagor, at any regular annual interest period on or after five years from the date of issue. They will be payable in fifteen years.
Each original bond purchaser becomes a charter life member of the club, entitled, without the payment of annual dues or other assessments, to the privileges and benefits offered. These, briefly, aside from the natural advantages of location, scenery, etc., are an assured congenial environment, known associations (not always a possibility in a public summer hotel), the absence of every possible unpleasant influence, opportunities for fishing, boating, tennis, golf and other outdoor sports, and first-class accommodations at a cost far below that charged at regular high-class summer hotels.
[Illustration: Proposed Family Club House, Carnelian Bay, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: Launch towing boats out to the fishing grounds, Lake Tahoe]
[Illustration: An Early Morning Catch, Tahoe Trout, Lake Tahoe]
The proceeds of the bond issue are to be devoted to the erection of the first unit of the club’s buildings, consisting of the club house proper, and probably six four-room cottages adjacent. Thus the value of the real estate securing the bonds will at once be enhanced virtually to the full extent of the investment made by the charter members.
With the initial buildings assured and in process of erection, the membership and patronage of the club will be augmented by extending the privileges of the organization to non-investors, who will be enrolled upon payment of a fixed membership charge. These associate members, like the charter members, will enjoy the privileges offered for themselves and their families and for such of their friends as they may desire to recommend, and for whom limited-period guest-cards are requested.
With a membership so broadly scattered as will be the membership of this club, community control of its affairs would be impracticable, if not impossible. It has been decided, therefore, to vest the supervisory control of the club in a self-perpetuating advisory board, composed of many of the most prominent citizens of Nevada and California.
The plan proposed is a feasible and practicable one, and one that ought to appeal to nature lovers who desire just such opportunities as it will afford on Lake Tahoe. The president of the company and the directing genius who has made Carnelian Bay possible is L.P. Delano, of Reno, Nevada, to whom all requests for further particulars regarding the Tahoe Country Club, or of Carnelian Bay should be addressed.
CHAPTER XXVIII
FISHING IN THE LAKES OF THE TAHOE REGION
Fishing in Lake Tahoe, and the other lakes of the region is a pleasure and a recreation as well as an art and a science. There are laymen, tyros, neophytes, proficients and artists. The real fraternity has passes, catchwords, grips and signals to which outsiders seek to “catch on” in vain.
The chief native trout of Lake Tahoe is locally known as the “cut-throat,” because of a brilliant dash of red on either side of the throat. The name, however, gives no hint of the exquisite beauty of the markings of the fish, the skill required and excitement developed in catching it, and the dainty deliciousness of its flesh when properly cooked.
Owing to the wonderful adaptability of Lake Tahoe, and the lakes and brooks of the surrounding region, to fish life, several other well-known varieties have been introduced, all of which have thrived abundantly and now afford opportunity for the skill of the fisherman and delight the palate of the connoisseur. These are the Mackinac, rainbow, eastern brook, and Loch Levin. There is also found a beautiful and dainty silver trout, along the shore where the cold waters of the various brooks or creeks flow into Lake Tahoe (and also in some of the smaller lakes), that is much prized. Some fishermen claim that it is the “prettiest, gamiest, sweetest and choicest” fish of the Lake, and it has been caught weighing as high as twelve pounds.
Another fish, native to Lake Tahoe, is found in vast numbers by the Indians in the fall. The ordinary summer visitor to Tahoe seldom sees or hears of these, as they rarely bite until the summer season is over, say in October. This is a white fish, varying in size from half a pound to four pounds in weight, with finely flavored flesh. It is found in shallow water and near the mouths of the creeks, and the Indians have a way of “snagging” them in. Building a kind of half platform and half stone screen over the pools where they abound, the Indians take a long wire, the end of which they have sharpened and bent to form a rude hook. Then, without bait, or any attempt at sport, they lower the hook and as rapidly as the fish appear, “snag” them out, literally by the hundreds. Most of these are salted down for winter use. This is supposed to be a native, and the traditions of the Indians confirm the supposition.
The largest native Tahoe trout caught, of which there is any authentic record, was captured not far from Glenbrook and weighed 35 pounds, and, strange to say, its capturer was an amateur. This, the boatmen tell me, is generally the case–the amateurs almost invariably bringing in the largest fish. Although there are rumors of fish having been caught weighing as high as 45 pounds it is impossible to trace these down to any accurate and reliable source, hence, until there is positive assurance to the contrary it may be regarded that this catch is the largest on record.
The common Tahoe method of “trolling” for trout is different from the eastern method. It is the result of years of experience and is practically as follows: A copper line, 100 to 200 feet long, which sinks of its own weight, on which a large copper spoon is placed above the hook, which is baited with a minnow and angle-worm, is used. Thrown into the water the line is gently pulled forward by the angler, then allowed to sink back. He takes care, however, always to keep it taut. This makes the spoon revolve and attracts the fish. The moment the angler feels a strike he gives his line a quick jerk and proceeds to pull in, landing the fish with the net. The local term for this method of fishing is “jerk-line.”
The copper line used is generally a 6 oz. for 100 feet, and the length is adjusted to the places in which the fisherman wishes to operate.
Let us, for a short time, watch the would-be angler. Women are often far more eager than men. The hotels of Tahoe keep their own fishing-boats. The larger ones have a fleet of twenty or more, and in the season this is found insufficient for the number who wish to try their hand and prove their luck. Often great rivalry exists not only in securing the boatmen who have had extra good luck or displayed extraordinary skill, but also between the guests as to the extent of their various “catches.” When a boatman has taken his “fare” into regions that have proven successful, and does this with frequency, it is natural that those who wish to run up a large score should try hard to secure him. This adds to the fun–especially to the onlookers.
The boat is all ready; the angler takes his (or her) seat in the cushioned stern, feet resting upon a double carpet–this is fishing _de luxe_. The oarsman pushes off and quietly rows away from the pier out into deep water, which, at Tahoe varies from 75 feet to the unknown depths of 1500 feet or more. The color of the water suggests even to the tyro the depth, and as soon as the “Tahoe blue” is reached the boatman takes his large hand-reel, unfastens the hook, baits it with minnow and worm and then hands it to the angler, with instructions to allow it to unreel when thrown out on the port side at the stern.
At the same time he prepares a second hook from a second reel which he throws out at the starboard side. At the end of each copper line a few yards of fish-cord are attached in which a loop is adjusted for the fingers. This holds the line secure while the backward and forward pulls are being made, and affords a good hold for the hook-impaling “jerk” when a strike is felt. While the “angler” pulls on his line the boatman slowly rows along, and holding his line on the fingers of his “starboard” hand, he secures the proper motion as he rows.
Then, pulling over the ledges or ridges between shallow and deeper, or deeper and deep water, he exercises all his skill and acquired knowledge and experience to enable his “fare” to make a good catch. As soon as a strike is felt and duly hooked he sees that the line is drawn in steadily so as not to afford the fish a chance to rid itself of the hook, and, as soon as it appears, he drops his oar, seizes the net, and lands the catch to the great delight of his less-experienced fare.
Many are the tales that a privileged listener may hear around the fisherman’s night-haunts, telling of the antics of their many and various fares, when a strike has been made. Some become so excited that they tangle up their lines, and one boatman assures me that, on one occasion a lady was so “rattled” that she finally wrapped her line in such a fashion around both elbows that she sat helpless and he had to come to her rescue and release her.
On another occasion a pair of “newly-weds” went out angling. When “hubby” caught a fish, the pair celebrated the catch by enthusiastically kissing, totally regardless of the surprise or envy that might be excited in the bosom of the poor boatman, and when “wifie” caught a fish the same procedure was repeated. “Of course,” said the boatman, in telling me the story, “that pair caught more fish than any one I had had for a month, simply to taunt me with their carryings on.”
In the height of the season the guests become the most enthusiastic fishermen of all. They take a growing pride in their increasing scores and the fishing then resolves itself into an earnest, almost deadly, tournament in which each determines to outscore the others. This is what the boatmen enjoy–though it often means longer hours and more severe rowing–for it is far easier to work (so they say) for a “fare” who is really interested than for one who is halfhearted and indifferent.
As these rivals’ boats pass each other they call out in triumph their rising luck, or listen gloweringly to the recital of others’ good fortune, when they are compelled to silence because of their own failure.
Sometimes the boatmen find these rivalries rather embarrassing, for the excitement and nervousness of their “fares” become communicated to them. Then, perhaps, they lose a promising strike, or, in their hurry, fail to land the fish when it appears. Scolding and recriminations are not uncommon on such occasions, and thus is the gayety of nations added to.
What is it that really constitutes “fisherman’s luck”? Who can tell? The theories of Tahoe fishermen are as many as there are men. Some think one thing, some another. One will talk learnedly of the phases of the moon, another of the effect of warmer or colder weather upon the “bugs” upon which the fish feed.
Sometimes one will “jerk” half a day and never get a strike; other days the boat will scarcely have left the wharf before one pulls the fish in almost as fast as hooks can be baited and thrown out. When fishing is slow an amateur soon becomes tired out. The monotonous pull on the line soon makes the arm weary, and destroys all enthusiasm. But let the strikes begin and weariness disappears. Some days the fish will bite for an hour, say from eleven to twelve, and then quit and not give another strike all day. The very next day, in the same spot, one cannot get a bite until afternoon.
One of my fishermen friends once related the following: “Again and again I have heard old and experienced fishermen say that no fish can be caught in a thunder-storm. Yet in July 1913 four boats were towed by a launch out to the Nevada side, near to Glenbrook. It appeared stormy before the party left, but they refused to be daunted or discouraged by the doleful prognostications of the “know-it-alls.” Before long the lightning began, the clouds hung heavy, and while they fished they were treated to alternate doses of thunder, lightning, cloud, sunshine, rain and hail. In less than an hour every member of the party–and there were several ladies–were soaked and drenched to the skin, but all were happy. For, contrary to the assertions of the experts, every angler was having glorious success. Each boat secured its full quota, 40 fish to each, and the catch averaged 70 pounds to a boat, scarcely a fish being pulled out that did not weigh over a pound. Talk about luck; these people surely had it.”
Once again; I was out one day with Boat No. 14 (each boat has its own number), and the boatman told me the following story. I know him well and his truthfulness is beyond question. He had with him two well-known San Francisco gentlemen, whom I will name respectively, Rosenbaum and Rosenblatt. They were out for the day. For hours they “jerked” without success. At last one turned to the other and said: “Rosie, I’ve got a hunch that our luck’s going to change. I’m going to count twenty and before I’m through we’ll each have a fish.” Slowly he began to count, one,–two,–three. Just as he counted fourteen, both men felt a strike, gave the fateful jerk, and pulled in a large fish, and from that moment their luck changed.
This is not the whole of the story, however. Some days later the same boatman was out on the Nevada side with two gentlemen, who could not get a bite. Merely to while away the time the boatman told the foregoing facts. To his surprise and somewhat to his disgust at his own indiscretion in telling the story, one of the gentlemen began to count, and, believe it or not, he assures me that at the fateful fourteen, he gained a first-class strike, and continued to have success throughout the afternoon.
As he left the boat he turned to his companion and said: “Well, that fourteen’s proved a lucky number. I’m going right over to the roulette wheel to see what luck it will give me over there.”
My boatman friend added that as he heard nothing of any great winnings at the wheel that night, and Mr. N. looked rather quiet and sober the next day, he is afraid the luck did not last. Needless to say that except to me, and then only in my capacity as a writer, the story has never been told.
Now, while the jerk-line method brings much joy to the heart of the successful and lucky amateur, the genuine disciple of Izaak Walton scorns this unsportsman-like method. He comes earlier in the season, April, May, or June, or later, in September, and brings his rod and line, when the fish keep nearer to the shore in the pot-holes and rocky formations, and then angles with the fly. It is only at these times, however, that he is at all likely to have any success, as the Tahoe trout does not generally rise to the fly.
Yet, strange to say, in all the smaller trout-stocked lakes of the region, Fallen Leaf, Cascade, Heather, Lily, Susie, Lucile, Grass, LeConte, Rock Bound, the Velmas, Angora, Echo, Tamarack, Lake of the Woods, Rainbow, Pit, Gilmore, Kalmia, Fontinalis, Eagle, Granite, and as many more, the trout are invariably caught with the fly, though the species most sought after is not the native Tahoe trout, but the eastern brook. This is essentially fish for the genuine angler, and many are the tales–true and otherwise–told of the sport the capture of this fish has afforded in the region.
There are several interesting peculiarities about the fish of Lake Tahoe and its region that it is well to note. In the large lake (Tahoe) the native cutthroat grows to much the largest size–the 35-lb. one referred to elsewhere being proof of its great growth.
The next in size is the Mackinac which is often caught as large as 10 lb., and now and again up to 15 lb.
In Fallen Leaf Lake, which was stocked with Mackinac some years ago, the native trout has become comparatively scarce, the former seemingly having driven it out, though in Lake Tahoe there is no such result. In Fallen Leaf not more than one or two in ten will be cutthroats, while Mackinacs abound, up to 6 lbs. and 7 lbs. in weight. Occasionally much larger fish are seen, though they are seldom brought to net. Not long ago a Loch Levin, weighing 12 lbs., was caught here.
While the catch of fish in the smaller lakes of the region is exceedingly large the fish themselves are smaller, the opportunities for hiding and fattening and growing older being comparatively greater in the larger body of water.
During the height of the season when there are a great many boats out it is common to hire a launch which will tow from four to a dozen boats over towards Emerald Bay on the California side, or towards Glenbrook on the Nevada side, where the fishing grounds are known to be of the best. The boatmen especially enjoy these days out–although the “fares” may not always suspect it–as it gives them a change from their ordinary routine and table fare. They enjoy trout as well as do the visitors, and of course, they are all expert cooks as well as boatmen. When noon-time comes, if there has been any luck, a camp-fire is built and the fish are fried, or broiled on the coals, or by experts, made into an excellent chowder. And never does one enjoy a fish dinner so much as under these circumstances. The exercise, the fresh air, the motion over the water, the deliciousness and delicate flavor of the fish, all conspire to tempt the most capricious appetite.
Once in a while a black bass will be caught, though it is not believed that this is a native fish. It does not seem to thrive in Tahoe though the boatmen tell me they occasionally see a few, especially off the docks at Tallac and other points at the south end of the Lake.
Now and again small bull-heads will be seen, and a very small rock-bass. But these never bite on hook and line, and are seldom found more than two or three inches long.
On the other hand big schools of suckers and chubs are seen. The former naturally are scorned by all true fishermen as they are regarded as hogs, or scavengers, and are thrown back whenever caught, or are taken and fed to the gulls or pelicans. The chubs occasionally are hooked and are from half a pound to a pound and a half in size. As a rule these are thrown back, though they make good eating to those who do not object to their excess of bones.
One of the most interesting of sights is to see one of the schools of minnows that fairly abound in Lake Tahoe. In the clear and pellucid water one can clearly see them swim along. As they pass a rocky place a trout will dart out and catch his prey. A flutter at once passes through the whole school. Yet, strange to say, the trout will sometimes swim around such a body and either stupify them with fear, or hypnotize them into forgetfulness of their presence, for they will float quietly in the center of the mass, catching the minnows one by one as they need them without exciting the least fear or attention. The minnows generally remain in fairly shallow water, and keep so closely together that a line of demarcation is made between where they are and outside, as if it had been cut with a knife along a straight edge, and in some mysterious way the fish dare not cross it, though it constantly moves along with their movements.
It will be obvious that necessarily there is much market-fishing in Lake Tahoe and its surrounding lakes. Indeed there are large numbers of fishermen–Indians and whites–who supply the various hotels both of the Lake region and in San Francisco, Oakland, Sacramento and adjacent cities, and even as far as Denver and Salt Lake City, eastwards, and Los Angeles to the south. These fishermen are very persistent in their work, keeping at it from early morning until late at night, though their catches are supposed to be officially regulated.
The amount of fish caught and shipped by these market-fishermen is remarkable. In 1911 the report shows that over 22,000 pounds were sent out by express, over half of which were sent from Tallac alone. And this does not take any account of the amount caught and eaten by private residents around the Lake, by the visitors or by the hotels.
The fish that are to be shipped are not, as one might naturally suppose, packed in ice. Experience has demonstrated a better way which is now universally followed. At Tallac the hotel has a large place devoted to this process, which is practically as follows: Each boatman has a fish-box, numbered to correspond with his boat. These are kept in the water during the season, and if the catch of his “fare” for one