Having a large number of windows to putty each week, I found it quite a task to prepare the putty. I facilitated the work by using an ordinary meat cutter or sausage grinder. The grinder will soften set putty and will quickly prepare cold putty. It will not, however, grind old putty or make putty from whiting and oil. –Contributed by H. G. Stevens; Dunham, Que.
** Home-Made Small Churn [192]
Many people living in a small town or in the suburbs of a city own one
[Illustration: Making Butter]
cow that supplies the family table with milk and cream. Sometimes the cream will accumulate, but not in sufficient quantities to be made into butter in a large churn. A fruit jar usually takes the place of a churn and the work is exceedingly hard, the jar being shaken so the cream will beat against the ends in the process of butter-making. The accompanying sketch shows clearly how one boy rigged up a device having a driving wheel which is turned with a crank, and a driven wheel attached to an axle having a crank on the inner end. This crank is connected to a swinging cradle with a wire pitman of such a size as to slightly bend or spring at each end of the stroke. The cradle is made with a cleat fastened to each end, between which is placed the fruit jar, partially filled with cream. The jar is wedged in between the cleats and the churning effected by turning the crank.
–Contributed by Geo. E. Badger, Mayger, Oregon.
** Home-Made Round Swing [192]
Gas pipe and fittings were used wherever possible in the making of the swing as shown in the photograph. The d i a g ram drawing shows the construction. A 6-in. square cedar post is set in the ground about 3 ft., allowing 2 ft. to remain above the ground and a 7/8-in. piece of shafting is driven into the top part of this post for an axle. A cast-iron ring, or, better still, a heavy wheel with four spokes of such a size as to be drilled and tapped for 1/2-in. pipe is used for the hub, or center on which the frame swings. If a wheel is selected, the rim must be removed and only the spokes and hub used. The hole in the hub must be 7/8 in. or less, so the hub can be fitted to the shafting that is driven in the post. A large washer is placed on top of the post and the hub or cast-iron ring set on the washer.
The drilled and tapped holes in the four spokes are each fitted with a 4-1/2 length of 1/2-in. pipe. These pipes are
[Illustration: The Merry-Go-Round Complete]
each fitted with a tee on the end and into this tee uprights of 1/2-in. pipe in suitable lengths are screwed, and also short lengths with a tee and axle for the 6-in. wheel are fitted in the under side of the tee. The uprights at their upper ends are also fitted with tees and each joined to the center pipe with 1/2-in. pipe flattened on the inner end and fastened with bolts to a flange.
The bottom part of the cloth covering is held in place by a 1/2-in. pipe, bent to the desired circle. Four braces made from 1/2-in. pipe connect each spoke and seat to the flange on the center pipe. An extra wheel 18 in. in diameter is fitted in between two seats and used as the propelling wheel. This wheel has bicycle cranks and pedals and carries a seat or a hobby horse. The four seats are fastened to the four pipes with 1/2-in. pipe clamps.
[Illustration: Details of the Swing]
Small miniature electric lights are fastened to the overhead braces and supplied with electric current carried through wires to the swing by an ingenious device attached to the under side of the cast-iron ring or hub of the wheel. A ring of fiber on which two brass rings are attached is fastened to the hub and connections are made to the two rings through two brushes fastened to the post with a bracket. The wires run under the surface of the ground outside and connected to the source of electricity. The wires from the brass rings run through the center pipe to the top and are connected to the lamp sockets.
** Old-Time Magic-Part V [193]
** The Disappearing Coin [193]
This is an uncommon trick, entirely home-made and yet the results are as startling as in many of the professional tricks. A small baking-powder can is employed to vanish the coin, which should be marked by one of the audience for identification. Cut a slot in the bottom on the side of the can, as shown in Fig. 1. This slot should be just large enough for the coin that is used to pass through freely, and to have its lower edge on a level with the bottom of the can.
The nest or series of boxes in which the coin is afterwards found should consist of four small sized flat pasteboard boxes square or rectangular shaped and furnished with hinged covers. The smallest need be no larger than necessary to hold the coin and each succeeding box should be just large enough to hold the next smaller one which in turn contains the others.
A strip of tin about 1 by 1-3/4 in. is bent in the shape as shown in Fig. 2 to serve as a guide for the coin through the various boxes. This guide is inserted about 1/8 in. in the smallest box between the cover and the box and three rubber bands wrapped around the box as indicated. This box is then enclosed in the next larger box, the guide being allowed to project between the box and the cover, and the necessary tension is secured by three rubber bands around the box as before. In like manner the remaining boxes are
[Illustration: Appliances for the Disappearing Coin]
adjusted so that finally the prepared nest of boxes appears as in Fig. 3.
The coin can easily be passed into the inner box through the tin guide, then the guide can be withdrawn which permits the respective boxes to close and the rubber bands hold each one in a closed position.
The performer comes forward with the tin can in his right hand, the bottom of the can in his palm with the slot at the right side. He removes the cover with the left hand and passes his wand around the inner part of the can which is then turned upside down to prove that it contains nothing. The marked coin is dropped into the can by some one in the audience. The cover is replaced and the can shaken so the coin will rattle within. The shaking of the can is continued until the coin has slipped through the slot into his palm. The can is then placed on the table with his left hand. Then apparently he looks for something to cover the can. This is found to be a handkerchief which was previously prepared on another table concealing the nest of boxes. The coin in the right hand is quickly slipped into the guide of the nest of boxes, which was placed in an upright position, and the guide withdrawn, and dropped on the table. The performer, while doing this, is explaining that he is looking for a suitable cover for the can, but as he cannot find one he takes the handkerchief instead. The handkerchief is spread over the can and then he brings the nest of boxes. He explains how he will transfer the coin and passes his wand from the can to the boxes. The can is then shown to be empty and the boxes given to one in the audience to be opened. They will be greatly surprised to find the marked coin within the innermost box.
** How to Keep Film Negatives [194]
There are many devices for taking care of film negatives to keep them from curling and in a place easily accessible. Herewith is illustrated a method by which anyone can make a place for the negatives produced by his or her special film camera. The device is made up similar to a post card album with places cut through each leaf to admit each corner of the negatives. The leaves are made from white paper and when the negatives are in place the pictures made on them can
[Illustration: Negatives on White Paper Background]
easily be seen through to the white paper background. These leaves can be made up in regular book form, or tied together similar to a loose-leaf book, thus adding only such pages as the negatives on hand will require.
–Contributed by H. D. Harkins, St. Louis, Mo.
** Home-Made Match Safe [194]
[Illustration: Details of the Match Safe]
Cut a piece of tin in the shape and with the dimensions shown in Fig. 1. Bend the saw-toothed edges at right angles to the piece on the dotted lines. Bend the part that is marked 5-1/2 in. in a half circle. Make a circle 3-1/2 in. in diameter on another piece of tin, cut out the circle and cut the disk in two as shown in Fig. 2. These half circle pieces are soldered to the sides of the teeth of the half circle made in the long piece of tin. Remove one end from the inside box containing matches and slip the back of the match safe through between the bottom of the inside box and the open end box that forms the cover. The matches will fall into the half circle tray at the lower end of the box which will be kept full of matches until they are all used from the box. –Contributed by C. F. White, Denver, Colo.
** An Electric Post Card Projector [195]
A post card projector is an instrument for projecting on a screen in a darkened room picture post cards or any other pictures of a similar size. The lantern differs from the ordinary magic lantern in two features; first, it requires no expensive condensing lens, and second, the objects to be projected have no need of being transparent.
Two electric globes are made to cast the strongest possible light on the picture card set between them and in front of which a lens is placed to project the view on the screen, the whole being enclosed in a light-tight box. The box can be made of selected oak or mahogany. The lens to be used as a projector will determine the size of the box to some extent. The measurements given in these instructions are for a lens of about 5 in. focal length. The box should be constructed of well seasoned wood and all joints made with care so they will be light-tight.
The portion shown carrying the lens in Fig. 1 is made to slide in the main body of the lantern for focusing. A box should first be made 5-1/2 in. wide, 5-1/2 in. high and 11 in. long. A hole is cut in the back of the box 4 by 6 in. represented by the dotted line in Fig. 2. This will be 3/4 in. from the top and bottom and 2-1/2 in. from each end of the outside of the box. Two strips of wood 1/2 in. wide and 6-1/2 in. long are fastened along the top and bottom of the back. The door covering this hole in the back, and, which is also used as a carrier for the post cards, is made from a board 4-1/2 in. wide and 6-1/2 in. long. The door is hinged to the lower strip and held in position by a turn button on the upper strip. The slides for the picture cards are made from strips of tin bent as shown, and tacked to the inside surface of the door.
The runners to hold the part carrying the lens are two pieces 2-1/4 in. wide by 5 in. long and should be placed
[Illustration: Details of the Post Card Lantern]
vertically, AA, as shown in Fig. 1, 3-1/2 in. from each end. An open space 4 in. wide and 5 in. high in the center is for the part carrying the lens to slide for focusing. The part carrying the lens is a shallow box 4 by 5 in. and 2 in. deep in the center of which a hole is cut to admit the lens. If a camera lens is used, the flange should be fastened with screws to the front part of this shallow box. The sides of this box should be made quite smooth and a good, but not tight, fit into the runners. Plumbago can be rubbed on to prevent sticking and to dull any rays of light.
Two keyless receptacles for electric globes are fastened to the under side of the top in the position shown and connected with wires from the outside. Two or three holes about 1 in. in diameter should be bored in the top between and in a line with the lights. These will provide ventilation to keep the pictures from being scorched or becoming buckled from the excessive heat. The holes must be covered over on the top with a piece of metal or wood to prevent the light from showing on the ceiling. This piece should not be more than 1/2 in. high and must
[Illustration: Post Card Lantern Complete]
be colored dead black inside to cause no reflection.
The reflectors are made of sheet tin or nickel-plated metal bent to a curve as shown, and extending the whole height of the lantern. The length of these reflectors can be determined by the angle of the lens when covering the picture. This is clearly shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 1. The reflectors must not interfere with the light between the picture and the lens, but they must be sufficiently large to prevent any direct light reaching the lens from the lamps. In operation place the post card upside down in the slides and close the door. Sliding the shallow box carrying the lens will focus the picture on the screen.
** A Handy Calendar [196]
[Illustration: The Knuckles Designate the 31 Day Months]
“Thirty days hath September, April, June and November,” etc., and many other rhymes and devices are used to aid the memory to decide how many days are in each month of the year. Herewith is illustrated a very simple method to determine the number of days in any month. Place the first finger of your right hand on the first knuckle of your left hand, calling that knuckle January; then drop your finger into the depression between the first and second knuckles, calling this February; then the second knuckle will be March, and so on, until you reach July on the knuckle of the little finger, then begin over again with August on the first knuckle and continue until December is reached. Each month as it falls upon a knuckle will have 31 days and those down between the knuckles 30 days with the exception of February which has only 28 days.
–Contributed by Chas. C. Bradley, West Toledo, Ohio.
** The Fuming of Oak [196]
Darkened oak always has a better appearance when fumed with ammonia. This process is rather a difficult one, as it requires an airtight case, but the description herewith given may be entered into with as large a case as the builder cares to construct.
Oak articles can be treated in a case made from a tin biscuit box, or any other metal receptacle of good proportions, provided it is airtight. The oak to be fumed is arranged in the box so the fumes will entirely surround the piece; the article may be propped up with small sticks, or suspended by a string. The chief point is to see that no part of the wood is covered up and that all surfaces are exposed to the fumes. A saucer of ammonia is placed in the bottom of the box, the lid or cover closed, and all joints sealed up by pasting heavy brown paper over them. Any leakage will be detected if the nose is placed near the tin and farther application of the paper will stop the holes. A hole may be cut in the cover and a piece of glass fitted in, taking care to have all the edges closed. The process may be watched through the glass and the article removed when the oak is fumed to the desired shade. Wood stained in this manner should not be French polished or varnished, but waxed.
The process of waxing is simple: Cut some beeswax into fine shreds and place them in a small pot or jar. Pour in a little turpentine, and set aside for half a day, giving it an occasional stir. The wax must be thoroughly dissolved and then more turpentine added until the preparation has the consistency of a thick cream. This can be applied to the wood with a rag and afterward brushed up with a stiff brush.
** How to Make an Electrolytic Rectifier [197]
[Illustration: Electrolytic Rectifier and Connections]
Many devices which will change alternating current to a direct current have been put on the market, but probably there is not one of them which suits the amateur’s needs and pocketbook better than the electrolytic rectifier.
For the construction of such a rectifier four 2-qt. fruit jars are required. In each place two electrodes, one of lead and one of aluminum. The immersed surface of the aluminum should be about 15 sq. in. and the lead 24 sq. in. The immersed surface of the lead being greater than that of the aluminum, the lead will have to be crimped as shown in Fig, 1. In both Fig. 1 and 2, the lead is indicated by L and the aluminum by A.
The solution with which each jar is to be filled consists of the following:
Water 2 qt.
Sodium Carbonate 2 tablespoonfuls Alum 3 tablespoonfuls
Care should be taken to leave the connections made as shown in Fig. 2. The alternating current comes in on the wires as shown, and the direct current is taken from the point indicated.
The capacity of this rectifier is from 3 to 5 amperes, which is sufficient for charging small storage batteries, running small motors and lighting small lamps.
–Contributed by J. H. Crawford, Schenectady, N. Y.
** The Rolling Marble [197]
Take a marble and place it on a smooth surface, The top of a table will do. Ask someone to cross their first and second fingers and place them on the marble as shown in the illustration. Then have the person roll the marble about and at the same time close the eyes or look in another direction. The person will imagine that there are two marbles instead of one.
[Illustration: Rooling Marble]
** A Gas Cannon [197]
If you have a small cannon with a bore of 1 or 1-1/2 in., bore out the fuse hole large enough to tap and fit in a small sized spark plug such as used on a gasoline engine. Fill the cannon with gas from a gas jet and then push a
[Illustration: Gas Cannon Loaded]
cork in the bore close up to the spark plug. Connect one of the wires from a battery to a spark coil and then to the spark plug. Attach the other wire to the cannon near the spark plug. Turn the switch to make a spark and a loud report will follow. –Contributed by Cyril Tegner, Cleveland, O.
** Old-Time Magic-Part VI [198]
** A Handkerchief Mended after Being Cut and Torn
Two persons are requested to come forward from the audience to hold the four corners of a handkerchief. Then beg several other handkerchiefs from the audience and place them on the one held by the two persons. When several handkerchiefs have been accumulated, have some one person draw out one from the bunch and examine for any marks that will determine that this handkerchief is the one to be mended after being mutilated. He, as well as others, are to cut off pieces from this handkerchief and to finally tear it to pieces.
The pieces are then all collected and some magic spirits thrown over the torn and cut parts; tie them in a small package with a ribbon and put them under a glass, which you warm with your hands. After a few seconds’ time, you remove the glass, as you have held it all the time, and take the handkerchief and unfold it; everyone will recognize the mark and be amazed not to find a cut or tear in the texture.
This trick is very simple. You have an understanding with some one in the company, who has two handkerchiefs exactly alike and has given one of them to a person behind the curtain; he throws the other, at the time of request for handkerchiefs, on the handkerchiefs held for use in the performance of the trick. You manage to keep this handkerchief where it will be picked out in preference to the others, although pretending to thoroughly mix them up. The person selected to pick out a handkerchief naturally will take the handiest one. Be sure that this is the right one.
When the handkerchief has been torn and folded, put it under the glass, on a table, near a partition or curtain. The table should be made with a hole cut through the top and a small trap door fitted snugly in the hole, so it will appear to be a part of the table top. This trap door is hinged on the under side and opens into the drawer of the table and can be operated by the person behind the curtain who will remove the torn handkerchief and replace it with the good one and then close the trap door by reaching through the drawer of the table.
** The Magic Knot [198]
This is a very amusing trick which consists of tying one knot with two ends of a handkerchief, and pulling the
[Illustration: Tying and Untying a Knot]
ends only to untie them again. Take the two diagonal corners of a handkerchief, one in each hand and throw the main part of the handkerchief over the wrist of the left hand and tie the knot as shown in the illustration. Pull the ends quickly, allowing the loop over the left hand to slip freely, and you will have the handkerchief without any knot.
** A Good Mouse Trap [198]
When opening a tomato or other small can, cut the cover crossways from side to side making four triangular pieces in the top. Bend the four ends outward and remove the contents, wash clean and dry and then bend the four ends inward, leaving a hole about 3/4 in. in diameter in the center. Drop in a piece of bread and lay the can down upon its side and the trap is ready for use. The mouse can get in but he cannot get out.
–Contributed by E. J. Crocker, Victor, Colo.
** Finishing Aluminum [198]
Rubbing the surface of an aluminum plate with a steel brush will produce a satin finish.
** How to Make a Sailing Canoe [199]
A canvas canoe is easily made and light to handle, but in making one, it must be remembered that the cloth will tear, if any snags are encountered. Therefore such a craft cannot be used in all waters, but by being careful at shores, it can be used as safely as an ordinary sailing canoe. Be sure to select the best materials and when complete cover the seams well with paint.
[Illustration: Completed Sailing Canoe]
The materials necessary for the construction of a sailing canoe, as illustrated in the engraving, are as follows:
1 keelson, 1 in. by 8 in. by 15 ft., selected pine. 14 rib bands, 1 in. square by 16 ft., clear pine. 2 gunwales, 1 in. by 2 in. by 16 ft.
1 piece for forms and bow pieces, 1 in. by 12 in. by 10 ft. 4 outwales, 1/4 in. by 2 in. by 16 ft. 1 piece, 3 in. wide and 12 ft. long, for cockpit frame. 1 piece, 2 in. wide and 12 ft. long, for center deck braces. 11 yd. of 1-1/2-yd. wide 12-oz. ducking. 8 yd. of 1-yd. wide unbleached muslin. 50 ft. of rope.
1 mast, 9 ft. long.
Paint, screws and cleats.
The keelson, Fig. 1, is 14 ft. long, 8 in. wide in the center and tapered down from a point 4 ft. from each end to 1 in. at the ends. Both ends are mortised, one 6 in. for the stern piece, and the other 12 in. for the bow. Be sure to get the bow and stern pieces directly in the middle of the keelson and at right angles with the top edge. The stern and bow pieces are cut as shown in Fig. 2 and braced with an iron band, 1/8 in. thick and 3/4 in. wide, drilled and fastened with screws.
Study the sketches showing the details well before starting to cut out the pieces. Then there will be no trouble experienced later in putting the parts together. See that all the pieces fit their places as the work proceeds and apply the canvas with care.
Two forms are made as shown in Figs. 3 and 4; the smaller is placed 3 ft. from the bow and the large one, 7 ft. 3 in. from the stern. The larger mould is used temporarily while making the boat, and is removed after the ribs are in place. The gunwales are now placed over the forms and in the notches shown, and fastened with screws, and, after cutting the ends to fit the bow and stern pieces, they are fastened with bolts put through the three pieces. The sharp edges on one side of each rib-band are removed and seven of them fastened with screws to each side of the moulds, spacing them on the large mould 4 in. apart. The ribs are made of 28 good barrel hoops
[Illustration: Details of a Home-Made Sailing Canoe]
which should be well soaked in water for several hours before bending them in shape. These are put in 6 in. apart and are fastened to the rib-bands with 7/8-in. wood screws. The ribs should be put in straight and true to keep them from pulling the rib-bands out of shape. After the ribs are in place and fastened to the rib-bands, gunwales and keelson, put on the outwale strips and fasten them to the gunwales between every rib with 1-1/2-in. screws.
Before making the deck, a block for the mast to rest in must be made and fastened to the keelson. This block, Fig. 5, is a cube having sides 6 in. square and is kept from splitting by an iron band tightly fitted around the outside. The block is fastened to the keelson, 3-1/2 ft. from the bow, with bolts through countersunk holes from the under side.
There are three deck braces made as shown in Figs. 6, 7 and 8. Braces, Figs. 6 and 7, form the ends of the cockpit which is 20 in. wide. A 6-in. board is fitted into the mortises shown in these pieces; a center piece is fitted in the other mortises. The other deck braces slope down from the center piece and are placed 6 in. apart. They are 1 in. square and are mortised into the center piece and fastened to the gunwales with screws. The main deck braces are fastened to the gunwales with 4-in. corner braces and to the center piece with 2-in. corner braces. The mast hole on the deck is made as follows: Secure a piece of pine 1 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 3 ft. long. Cut this in halves and mortise for the center piece in the two halves and fasten to the gunwales. A block of pine, 4 in. thick and 12 in. long, is cut to fit under the top boards, Fig. 9, and fastened to them with bolts. With an expansive bit bore a hole 3 in. in diameter through the block. Be sure to get the block and hole directly over the block that is fastened to the keelson. Put on a coat of boiled linseed oil all over the frame before proceeding farther.
Putting on the canvas may be a difficult piece of work to do, yet if the following simple directions are followed out no trouble will be encountered. The 11-yd. length of canvas is cut in the center, doubled, and a seam made joining the two pieces together. Fill the seam with thick paint and tack it down with copper tacks along the center of the keelson. When this is well tacked commence stretching and pulling the canvas in the middle of the gunwales so as to make it as even and tight as possible and work toward each end, tacking the canvas as it is stretched to the outside of the gunwale. Seam the canvas along the stern and bow pieces as was done on the keelson. The deck is not so hard to do, but be careful to get the canvas tight and even. A seam should be made along the center piece. The trimming is wood, 1/4 in. thick and 1/2 in. wide. A strip of this is nailed along the center piece over the canvas. The outwales are nailed on over the canvas. A piece of oak, 1 in. thick 1-1/2 in. wide and 14 in. long, is fastened with screws over the canvas on the stern piece; also, a piece 1/4 in. thick, 1 in. wide and 24 in. long is well soaked in water, bent to the right shape and fastened over the canvas on the bow.
The rudder is made as shown in Fig. 10 with a movable handle. A strip 1 in. thick by 2 in. wide, is bolted to the keelson over the canvas for the outer keel. The keel, Fig. 11, is 6 in. wide at one end and 12 in. at the other, which is fastened to the outer keel with bolts having thumb nuts. The mast can be made of a young spruce tree having a diameter of 3 in. at the base with sufficient height to make it 9 ft. long. The canoe is driven by a lanteen sail and two curtain poles, each 1 in. in diameter and 10 ft. long, are used for the boom and gaff, which are held together with two pieces of iron bent as shown in Fig. 12. The sail is a triangle, 9-3/4 by 9-3/4 by 8-1/2 ft. which is held to the boom and gaff by cord lacings run through eyelets inserted in the muslin. The eyelets are of brass placed 4 in. apart in the muslin. The mast has two side and one front stay, each fitted with a turnbuckle for tightening. A pulley is placed at the top and bottom of the mast for the lift rope. The sail is held to the mast by an iron ring and the lift rope at the top of the mast. The boom rope is held in the hand and several cleats should be placed in the cockpit for convenience. A chock is placed at the bow for tying up to piers. Several coats of good paint complete the boat. –Contributed by O. E. Tronnes, Wilmette, Ill.
** A Home-Made Hand Vise [201]
A very useful little hand vise can easily be made from a hinge and a bolt carrying a wing nut. Get a fast
[Illustration: Hand Vise Made from a Hinge]
joint hinge about 2 in. or more long and a bolt about 1/2 in. long that will fit the holes in the hinge. Put the bolt through the middle hole of the hinge and replace the nut as shown in the drawing. With this device any small object may be firmly held by simply placing it between the sides of the hinge and tightening the nut.
** Proper Design for a Bird House [201]
This bird house was designed and built to make a home for the American martin. The house will accommodate 20 families. All the holes are arranged so they will not be open to the cold winds from the north which often kill the birds which come in the early spring. Around each opening is an extra ring of wood to make a longer passage which assists the martin inside in fighting off the English
[Illustration: Bird House]
sparrow who tries to drive him out. The holes are made oval to allow all the little ones to get their heads out for fresh air. The long overhanging eaves protect the little birds from the hot summer sun. The rooms are made up with partitions on the inside so each opening will have a room. The inside of the rooms should be stained black.
** Boomerangs and How to Make Them [202]
A boomerang is a weapon invented and used by the native Australians, who seemed to have the least intelligence of any race of mankind. The
[Illustration: Details of Three Boomerangs]
boomerang is a curved stick of hardwood, Fig. 1, about 5/16 in. thick, 2-1/2 in. wide and 2 ft. long, flat on one side, with the ends and the other side rounding. One end of the stick is grasped in one hand with the convex edge forward and the flat side up and thrown upward. After going some distance and ascending slowly to a great height in the air with a quick rotary motion, it suddenly returns in an elliptical orbit to a spot near the starting point. If thrown down on the ground the boomerang rebounds in a straight line, pursuing a ricochet motion until the object is struck at which it was thrown.
Two other types of boomerangs are illustrated herewith and they can be made as described. The materials necessary for the T-shaped boomerang are: One piece of hard maple 5/16 in. thick, 2-1/2 in. wide, and 3 ft. long; five 1/2-in. flat-headed screws. Cut the piece of hard maple into two pieces, one 11-1/2 in. and the other 18 in. long. The corners are cut from these pieces as shown in Fig. 2, taking care to cut exactly the same amount from each corner. Bevel both sides of the pieces, making the edges very thin so they will cut the air better. Find the exact center of the long piece and make a line 1-1/4 in. on each side of the center and fasten the short length between the lines with the screws as shown in Fig. 3. The short piece should be fastened perfectly square and at right angles to the long one.
The materials necessary for the cross-shaped boomerang are one piece hard maple 5/16 in. thick, 2 in. wide and 30 in. long and five 1/2-in. flat headed screws. Cut the maple- into two 14-in. pieces and plane the edges of these pieces so the ends will be 1-1/2 in. wide, as shown in Fig. 4. Bevel these pieces the same as the ones for the T-shaped boomerang. The two pieces are fastened together as shown in Fig. 5. All of the boomerangs when completed should be given several coats of linseed oil and thoroughly dried. This will keep the wood from absorbing water and becoming heavy. The last two boomerangs are thrown in a similar way to the first one, except that one of the pieces is grasped in the hand and the throw given with a quick underhand motion. A little practice is all that is necessary for one to become skillful in throwing them. –Contributed by O. E. Tronnes, Wilmette, Ill.
** How to Make Water Wings [202]
Purchase a piece of unbleached muslin, 1 yd. square. Take this and fold it over once, forming a double piece 1-1/2 ft. wide and 3 ft. long. Make a double stitch all around the edge, leaving a small opening at one corner. Insert a piece of tape at this corner to be used for tying around the opening when the bag is blown up. The bag is then turned inside out, soaked with water and blown up. An occasional wetting all over will prevent it from leaking. As these wings are very large they will prevent the swimmer from sinking. –Contributed by W. C. Bliss, St. Louis, Mo.
** How to Make an Ammeter [203]
The outside case of this instrument is made of wood taken from old cigar boxes with the exception of the back. If carefully and neatly made, the finished instrument will be very satisfactory. The measurements here given need not be strictly followed out, but can be governed by circumstances. The case should first be made and varnished and while this is drying, the mechanical parts can be put together.
[Illustration: Details of an Ammeter]
The back is a board 3/8 in. thick, 6-1/2 in. wide and 6-3/4 in. long. The outer edges of this board are chamfered. The other parts of the case are made from the cigar box wood which should be well sandpapered to remove the labels. The sides are 3-1/4 in. wide and 5 in. long; the top and bottom, 3-1/4 in. wide and 4-1/2 in. long. Glue a three cornered piece, A, Fig. 1, at each end on the surface that is to be the inside of the top and bottom pieces. After the glue, is set, fasten the sides to the pieces with glue, and take care that the pieces are all square. When the glue is set, this square box is well sandpapered, then centered, and fastened to the back with small screws turned into each three-cornered piece.
The front, which is a piece 5-1/4 in. wide and 6-1/2 in. long, has a circular opening cut near the top through which the graduated scale may be seen. This front is centered and fastened the same as the back, and the four outside edges, as well as the edges around the opening, are rounded. The whole case can now be cleaned and stained with a light mahogany stain and varnished. Cut another piece of board, B, Figs. 2 and 3, to just fit inside the case and rest on the ends of the three-cornered pieces, A, and glue to this board two smaller pieces, C, 3 in. square, with the grain of the wood in alternate directions to prevent warping. All of these pieces are made of the cigar box wood. Another piece, D, 3/8 in. thick and 3 in. square, is placed on the other pieces and a U-shaped opening 1-3/4 in. wide and 2-1/2 in. high sawed out from all of the pieces as shown. The piece D is attached to the pieces C with four 1/2-in. pieces 2-5/8 in. long.
A magnet is made from a soft piece of iron, E, about 3/8 in. thick, 1-1/4 in. wide and 2-3/4 in. long. Solder across each end of the iron a piece of brass wire, F, and make a turn in each end of the wires, forming an eye for a screw. These wires are about 2-1/2 in. long. Wind three layers of about No. 14 double cotton-covered copper wire on the soft iron and leave about 5 or 6 in. of each end unwound for connections.
The pointer is made as shown in Fig. 5 from 1/16-in. brass wire filed to make a point at both ends for a spindle. About 1/2 in. from each end of this wire are soldered two smaller brass wires which in turn are soldered to a strip of light tin 1/4 in. wide and 2-5/8 in. long. The lower edge of this tin should be about 1/2 in. from the spindle. The pointer is soldered to the spindle 1/4 in. from one end. All of these parts should be brass with the exception of the strip of tin. Another strip of tin, the same size as the first, is soldered to two brass wires as shown in Fig. 4. These wires should be about 1 in. long.
The spindle of the pointer swings freely between two bars of brass, G, 1/16 in. thick, 1/4 in. wide and 2-1/2 in. long. A small hole is countersunk in one of the bars to receive one end of the spindle and a hole 1/8 in. in diameter is drilled in the other and a thumb nut taken from the binding-post of an old battery soldered over the hole so the screw will pass through when turned into the nut. The end of the screw is countersunk to receive the other end of the spindle. A lock nut is necessary to fasten the screw when proper adjustment is secured. A hole is drilled in both ends of the bars for screws to fasten them in place. The bar with the adjusting screw is fastened on the back so it can be readily adjusted through the hole H, bored in the back. The pointer is bent so it will pass through the U-shaped cut-out and up back of the board B. A brass pin is driven in the board B to hold the pointer from dropping down too far to the left. Place the tin, Fig. 4, so it will just clear the tin, Fig. 5, and fasten in place. The magnet is next placed with the ends of the coil to the back and the top just clearing the tin strips. Two binding screws are fitted to the bottom of the back and connected to the extending wires from the coil.
The instrument is now ready for calibrating. This is done by connecting it in series with another standard ammeter which has the scale marked in known quantities. In this series is also connected a variable resistance and a battery or some other source of current supply. The resistance is now adjusted to show .5 ampere on the standard ammeter and the position of the pointer marked on the scale. Change your resistance to all points and make the numbers until the entire scale is complete.
When the current flows through the coil, the two tinned strips of metal are magnetized, and being magnetized by the same lines of force they are both of the same polarity. Like poles repel each other, and as the part Fig. 4 is not movable, the part carrying the pointer moves away. The stronger the current, the greater the magnetism of the metal strips, and the farther apart they will be forced, showing a greater defection of the pointer. –Contributed by George Heimroth, Richmond Hill, L. I.
** How to Make an Equatorial [204] Condensed from article contributed by J. R. Chapman, F.R.A.S. Austwick Hall. W. Yorkshire. England
This star finder can easily be made by anyone who can use a few tools as the parts are all wood and the only lathe work necessary is the turned shoulder on the polar axis and this could be dressed and sandpapered true enough for the purpose. The base is a board 5 in. wide and 9 in. long which is fitted with an ordinary wood screw in each corner for leveling. Two side pieces cut with an angle equal to the colatitude of the place are nailed to the base and on top of them is fastened another board on which is marked the hour circle as shown. The end of the polar axis B, that has the end turned with a shoulder, is fitted in a hole bored in the center of the hour circle. The polar axis B is secured to the board with a wooden collar and a pin underneath. The upper end of the polar axis is fitted with a 1/4-in. board, C, 5-1/2 in. in diameter. A thin compass card divided into degrees is fitted on the edge of this disk for the declination circle.
The hour circle A is half of a similar card with the hour marks divided into 20 minutes. An index pointer is fastened to the base of the polar axis. A pointer 12 in. long is fastened with a small bolt to the center of the declination circle. A small opening is made in the pointer into which an ordinary needle is inserted. This needle is adjusted to the degree to set the pointer in declination and when set, the pointer is clamped with the bolt at the center. A brass tube having a 1/4-in. hole is fastened to the pointer.
The first thing to do is to get a true N and S meridian mark. This can be approximately obtained by a good compass, and allowance made for the magnetic declination at your own place. Secure a slab of stone or some other solid flat surface, level this and have it firmly fixed facing due south with a line drawn through the center and put the equatorial on the surface with XII on the south end of the line. Then set the pointer D to the declination of the object, say Venus at the date of observation. You now want to know if this planet is east or west of your meridian at the time of observation. The following formula will show how this may be found. To find a celestial object by equatorial: Find the planet Venus May 21, 1881, at 9 hr. 10 min. A. M. Subtract right ascension of planet from the time shown by the clock, thus:
hour minute second 9 hr. 10 min. shows mean siderial. 1 0 0 Add 12 hrs 12
— — —
13
Right ascension of Venus 2 10 — — —
Set hour circle to before meridian 10 50 0 Again——————
At 1 hr. 30 min. mean clock shows 5 20 0 Right ascension of Venus 2 10 0 — — —
Set hour circle to 3 10 0
Books may be found in libraries that will give the right ascension and declination of most of the heavenly bodies.
The foregoing tables assume that you have a clock rated to siderial time,
[Illustration: Home-Made Equatorial]
but this is not absolutely necessary. If you can obtain the planet’s declination on the day of observation and ascertain when it is due south, all you have to do is to set the pointer D by the needle point and note whether Venus has passed your meridian or not and set your hour index. There will be no difficulty in picking up Venus even in bright sunlight when the plant is visible to the naked eye.
** Electric Light Turned On and Off from Different Places [205]
How nice it would be to have an electric light at the turn in a stairway, or at the top that could be turned on before starting up the stair and on reaching the top turned out, and vice
[Illustration: The Wiring Diagram]
versa when coming down. The wiring diagram as shown in the illustration will make this a pleasant reality. This wiring may be applied in numerous like instances. The electric globe may be located at any desired place and the two point switches are connected in series with the source of current as shown in the sketch. The light may be turned on or off at either one of the switches.
–Contributed by Robert W. Hall, New Haven, Conn.
** How to Make a Bunsen Cell [206]
This kind of a cell produces a high e.m.f. owing to the low internal resistance. Procure a glass jar such as used for a gravity battery, or, if one of these cannot be had, get a glazed vessel of similar construction. Take a piece of sheet zinc large enough so that when it is rolled up in the shape of a cylinder it will clear the edge of the jar by about 1/2 in. Solder a wire or binding-post to the edge of the cylinder for a connection.
[Illustration: Cross Section and Completed Cell]
Secure a small unglazed vessel to fit inside of the zinc, or such a receptacle as used in a sal ammoniac cell, and fill it with a strong solution of nitric acid. Fill the outer jar with a solution of 16 parts water and 5 parts sulphuric acid. The connections are made from the zinc and carbon.
** Optical Illusion [206]
Can you tell which of these three figures is the tallest? Make a guess, and then verify its correctness by measurement.
[Illustration: Who is tallest?]
** One Way to Cook Fish [206]
One of the best and easiest ways of cooking fish while out camping is told by a correspondent of Forest and Stream. A fire is built the size for the amount of food to be cooked and the wood allowed to burn down to a glowing mass of coals and ashes. Wash and season your fish well and then wrap them up in clean, fresh grass, leaves or bark. Then, after scraping away the greater part of the coals, put the fish among the ashes, cover up with the same, and heap the glowing coals on top. The fish cooks quickly–15 or 20 minutes–according to their size.
If you eat fish or game cooked after this fashion you will agree that it cannot be beaten by any method known to camp culinary savants. Clay also answers the purpose of protecting. the fish or game from the fire if no other material is at hand, and for anything that requires more time for cooking it makes the best covering. Wet paper will answer, especially for cooking fish.
** Hardening Copper [206]
A successful method of hardening copper is to add 1 lb. of alum and 4 oz. arsenic to every 20 lb. of melted copper and stir for 10 minutes.
** Packing Cut from Felt Hats [206]
Felt from an old hat makes good packing for automobile water-circulating pumps. Strips should be cut to fit snugly in the stuffing box. When the follower is screwed down, it will expand the felt and make a watertight joint.
** Homemade Gasoline Engine [206]
The material used in the construction of the gasoline engine, as shown in the accompanying picture, was pieces found in a scrap pile that usually occupies a fence corner on almost every farm. The cylinder consists of
[Illustration: Complete Homemade Gasoline Engine]
an old pump cylinder, 3/8 in. thick, 1-3/4 in. inside diameter and about 5 in. long. This was fastened between some wooden blocks which were bolted on the tool carriage of a lathe and then bored out to a diameter of about 2 in. The boring bar, Fig. 1, consisted of an old shaft with a hole bored through the center and a tool inserted and held for each cut by a setscrew. A wood mandrel with a metal shaft to turn in the centers of a lathe was made to fit the bored-out cylinder. The cylinder was then placed on the mandrel, fastened with a pin, and threaded on both ends. Flanges were next made from couplings discarded from an old horsepower tumbling rod, to fit on the threaded ends of the cylinder casting. When these flanges were tightly screwed on the casting and faced off smooth the whole presented the appearance of a large spool.
The back cylinder head was made from a piece of cast iron, about 1/2 in. thick, turned to the same diameter as the flanges, and with a small projection to fit snugly inside the cylinder bore. Two holes were then drilled in this head and tapped for 3/4-in. pipe. Two pieces of 3/4 -in. pipe were fitted to these holes so that, when they were turned in, a small part of the end of each pipe projected on the inside of the cylinder head. These pieces of pipe serve as valve cages and are reamed out on the inside ends to form a valve seat. The outlet for the exhaust and the inlet for the gas and air are through holes drilled in the side of each pipe respectively and tapped for 1/2-in. pipe. Two heads were then made to fit over the outer ends of the valve cages. These heads looked similar to a thread spool with one flange cut off, the remaining flange fitting on the
[Illustration: Steps in Making the Home-Made Gasoline Engine]
end of the valve cage and the center extending down inside to make a long guide for the valve stems. These heads are held in place by a wrought-iron plate and two bolts, one of which is plainly shown in the picture. This plate also supports the rocker arms, Fig. 2, and the guides for the rods that operate the valves. Both valves are mechanically operated by one cam attached to a shaft running one turn to two of the crankshaft. The gears to run this shaft were cut from solid pieces on a small home-made gear-cutting attachment for the lathe as shown in Fig. 3. The gear on the crankshaft has 20 teeth meshing into a 40-tooth gear on the cam shaft.
The main part of the frame consists of a piece of 1/2-in. square iron, 30 in. long, bent in the shape of a U, and on the outside of this piece is riveted a bent piece of sheet metal 1/8 in. thick and 3 in. wide. The U-shaped iron is placed near one edge of the sheet metal. Two pieces of 2-1/2-in. angle iron are riveted vertically on the ends of the U-shaped iron and a plate riveted on them to close the open end and to form a face on which to attach the cylinder with bolts or cap screws. A hole was cut through the angle irons and plate the same size as the bore of the cylinder so the piston could be taken out without removing the cylinder. A 1-in. angle iron was riveted to one side of the finished frame to make a support for the crankshaft bearing. The rough frame, Fig. 4, was then finished on an emery wheel. This long frame had to be made to accommodate the crosshead which was necessary for such a short cylinder.
The piston and rod were screwed together and turned in one operation on a lathe. The three rings were made from an old cast-iron pulley. The cap screws were made from steel pump rods. A piece of this rod was centered in a lathe and turned so as to shape six or more screws, Fig. 5, then removed and the first one threaded and cut off, then the second and so on until all of them were made into screws. The rod was held in a vise for this last operation. Studs were made by threading both ends of a proper length rod. Make-and-break ignition is used on the engine; however, a jump spark would be much better. The flywheel and mixing valve were purchased from a house dealing in these parts. The water jacket on the cylinder is a sheet of copper formed and soldered in place, and brass bands put on to co v e r the soldered joints.
–Contributed by Peter Johnson, Clermont, Iowa.
** Dripping Carburetor [208]
If gasoline drips from the carburetor when the engine is not running, the needle valve connected with the float should be investigated. If the dripping stops when the valve is pressed down, the float is too high. If the valve keeps dripping, then it should be ground to a fit.
** A Merry-Go-Round Thriller [209]
[Illustration: Swinging on the Merry-Go-Round]
As a home mechanic with a fondness for amusing the children I have seen many descriptions of merry-go-rounds, but never one which required so little material, labor and time, and which gave such satisfactory results, as the one illustrated herewith. It was erected in our back yard one afternoon, the materials being furnished by an accommodating lumber pile, and a little junk, and it has provided unlimited pleasure for “joy-riders,” little and big, from all over the neighborhood. It looks like a toy, but once seat yourself in it and begin to go around, and, no matter what your age or size may be, you will have in a minute enough thrill and excitement to last the balance of the day.
The illustration largely explains itself, but a few dimensions will be a help to anyone wishing to construct the apparatus. The upright is a 4 by 4-in. timber, set 3 ft. in the ground with 8 ft. extending above. It is braced on four sides with pieces 2 in. square and 2 ft. long, butting against short stakes. The upper end of the post is wound with a few rounds of wire or an iron strap to prevent splitting. The crosspiece is 2 in. square, 12 ft. long, strengthened by a piece 4 in. square and 5 ft. long. These two pieces must be securely bolted or spiked together. A malleable iron bolt, 3/4 in. in diameter and 15 in. long is the pivot. On this depends the safety of the contrivance, so it must be strong enough, and long enough to keep firmly in the post. Drive this bolt in a 3/8-in. hole bored in the post, which will make it a sufficiently tight fit. Make the hole for the bolt very loose through the crosspiece, so that there will be plenty of “wobble,” as this is one of the mirth-making features of the machine. Use a heavy washer at the head. The seats are regular swing boards, supported by a stout and serviceable rope. A 3/4 -in. rope is not too heavy. One set of ropes are passed through holes at the end of the crosspiece and knotted on top. The other set should be provided with loops at the top and slid over the crosspiece, being held in position by spikes as shown. This makes an easy adjustment. Seat the heavier of the riders on the latter seat, moving it toward the center until a balance with the lighter rider is reached. A rope tied to the crosspiece about 2 ft. from the center, for the “motive power” to grasp, completes the merry-go-round.
Put plenty of soap or grease between the crosspiece and upright. Be sure to have room for the ropes to swing out at high speed, with no trees or buildings in the way. The “wobble” mentioned will give an agreeable undulating motion, which adds greatly to the flying sensation. This will be found surprisingly evident for so small a machine. As there is no bracing, care must be taken to have the two riders sit at the same moment, or the iron bolt will be bent out of line. If it is to be used for adults, strong clear material only should be employed.
–Contributed by C. W. Nieman.
** How to Make and Fly a Chinese Kite [210]
The Chinese boy is not satisfied with simply holding the end of a kite string and running up and down the block or field trying to raise a heavy paper kite with a half pound of rags for a tail. He makes a kite as light as possible without any tail which has the peculiar property of being able to move in every direction. Sometimes an expert can make one of these kites travel across the wind for several hundred feet; in fact, I have seen boys a full block apart bring their kites together and engage
[Illustration: Parts of a Chinese Kite]
in a combat until one of their kites floated away with a broken string, or was punctured by the swift dives of the other, and sent to earth, a wreck.
The Chinese boy makes his kite as follows:
From a sheet of thin but tough tissue paper about 20 in. square, which he folds and cuts along the dotted line, as shown in Fig. 1, he gets a perfectly square kite having all the properties of a good flyer, light and strong. He shapes two pieces of bamboo, one for the backbone and one for the bow. The backbone is flat, 1/4 by 3/32 in. and 18 in. long. This he smears along one side with common boiled rice. Boiled rice is one of the best adhesives for use on paper that can be obtained and the Chinese have used it for centuries while we are just waking up to the fact that it makes fine photo paste. Having placed the backbone in position, paste two triangular pieces of paper over the ends of the stick to prevent tearing. The bow is now bent, and the lugs extending from the sides of the square paper are bent over the ends of the bow and pasted down. If the rice is quite dry or mealy it can be smeared on and will dry almost immediately, therefore no strings are needed to hold the bow bent while the paste dries.
After the sticks are in position the kite will appear as shown in Fig. 2. The dotted lines show the lugs bent over the ends of the bow and pasted down. Figure 3 shows how the band is put on and how the kite is balanced. This is the most important part and cannot be explained very well. This must be done by experimenting and it is enough to say that the kite must balance perfectly. The string is fastened by a slip-knot to the band and moved back and forth until the kite flies properly, then it is securely fastened.
A reel is next made. Two ends–the bottoms of two small peach baskets will do–are fastened to a dowel stick or broom handle, if nothing better is at hand. These ends are placed about 14 in. apart and strips nailed between them as shown in Fig. 4, and the centers drawn in and bound with a string. The kite string used is generally a heavy packing thread. This is run through a thin flour or rice paste until it is thoroughly coated, then it is run through a quantity of crushed glass. The glass should be beaten up fine and run through a fine sieve to make it about the same as No.2 emery. The particles should be extremely sharp and full of splinters. These particles adhere to the pasted string and when dry are so sharp that it cannot be handled without scratching- the fingers, therefore the kite is flown entirely from the reel. To wind the string upon the reel, all that is necessary is to lay one end of the reel stick in the bend of the left arm and twirl the other end between the fingers of the right hand.
A Chinese boy will be flying a gaily colored little kite from the roof of a house (if it be in one of the large cities where they have flat-roofed houses) and a second boy will appear on the roof of another house perhaps 200 ft. away. Both have large reels full of string, often several hundred yards of it. The first hundred feet or so is glass-covered string, the balance, common packing thread, or glass-covered string. As soon as the second boy has his kite aloft, he begins maneuvering to drive it across the wind and over to the first kite. First, he pays out a large amount of string, then as the kite wobbles to one side with its nose pointing toward the first kite, he tightens his line and commences a steady quick pull. If properly done his kite crosses over to the other and above it. The string is now payed out until the second kite is hanging over the first one’s line. The wind now tends to take the second kite back to its parallel and in so doing makes a turn about the first kite’s string. If the second kite is close enough, the first tries to spear him by swift dives. The second boy in the meantime is see-sawing his string and presently the first kite’s string is cut and it drifts away.
It is not considered sport to haul the other fellow’s kite down as might be done and therefore a very interesting battle is often witnessed when the experts clash their kites. –Contributed by S. C. Bunker, Brooklyn, N. Y.
** Home-Made Vise [211]
An ordinary monkey wrench that has been discarded is used in making this vise. The wrench is supported by two L-shaped pieces of iron fastened with
[Illustration: A Swivel Bench Vise]
a rivet through the end jaw, and these in turn are bolted or screwed to the bench. The handle end is held down with a staple. The inside jaw is used in clamping and is operated with the thumb screw of the wrench. Two holes bored through the thumb piece will greatly facilitate setting up the jaws tightly by using a small rod in the holes as a lever.
The vise may be made into a swing vise if the wrench is mounted on a board which is swung on a bolt at one end and held with a pin at the other as shown in the illustration. Various holes bored in the bench on an arc will permit the board to be set at any angle. –Contributed by Harry S. Moody, Newburyport. Mass.
** Home-Made Changing Bag for Plate Holders [212]
A good bag for changing plates and loading plate holders and one that the operator can see well to work in can
[Illustration: Made of Black Cambric]
be made by anyone on a sewing machine. Ten yards of black cambric or other black cloth and a little ruby fabric will be required. Take the cambric and fold it into 2-yd. lengths (Fig. 1) which will make five layers of cloth, tack or fasten the layers together so they will not slip and cut an 8-in. square hole in the middle of one half (Fig. 2) and sew the ruby fabric over the opening. Be sure and make the seam light-tight and have enough layers of ruby fabric so no white light can get in. Fold the cloth up so it will be 1 yd. square (Fig. 3) and sew up the edges to make a bag with one side open. Put a drawstring in the edge of the cloth around the open side and the bag is complete ready for use.
Take the holders and plate boxes in the lap and put the bag over the head and down around the body, then draw the string up tight. A bag made up in this manner is for use only for a short time. If it is necessary to do considerable work at a time, then a dust protector, such as mill men use, must be attached to a 3-ft. length of 2-in. rubber hose and the hose run through a hole in the bag. This will make it possible to work in the bag as long as you wish.
–Contributed by Earl R. Hastings, Corinth, Vt.
** Home-Made Asbestos Table Pads [212]
Asbestos table pads to prevent the marring of polished table tops from heated dishes can be easily made at home much cheaper than they can be bought. Procure a sheet of asbestos from a plumbing shop and cut it in the shape of the top of your table. If the table is round, make the pad as shown in the illustration, cutting the circular piece into quarters. Cut four pieces of canton flannel. each the size of half the table top. Two of the asbestos pieces are used to make one-half of the pad. Place the two pieces with their edges together so they will form half a circle disk and cover both sides with a piece of the flannel and pin them in place. A binding of white cotton tape is then basted around the edges to hold all the pieces together until they are stitched on a sewing machine. A line of machine stitching is made all around the outside and through the middle
[Illustration: Pads Made of Asbestos]
between where the edges of the asbestos sheets join together. This will form a hinge so the two quarters may be folded for putting away. Make the other half circular disk in the same way. If leaves are wanted in extending the table, any number of pads can be made to cover them in the same manner with the hinge in the middle of each pad. The flannel is used with the nap side out so it will make the pad soft and noiseless. This kind of a pad furnishes perfect protection to the table from any heat or moisture. –Contributed by H. E. Wharton, Oakland, Calif.
** How to Make a Ladies’ Handbag [213]
To make this bag, get a piece of Russian calf modeling leather. A shade of brown is the best as it does not soil easily and does not require coloring, which spoils the leather effect.
The dimensions of the full sized bag are: from A to B, 17-1/2 in.; from C to D, 16-1/4 in.; from E to F,9-1/4 in.; G to H, 6-1/4 in., and E to G, 2-1/4 in.
Enlarge the accompanying pattern to the given dimensions, trace this or some other appropriate design on it, and then cut the leather the size of the pattern.
Use a sponge to dampen the leather on the rough side, not so damp that the water will come through to the right side when working, but damp enough to allow the design to be well impressed
[Illustration: Pattern]
on the leather. Use a smooth, non-absorbent surface to lay the leather on while at work.
Now lay the pattern on the right side of the leather and with the smallest end of the leather tool or a sharp, hard pencil, trace the design carefully on the leather. Moisten the leather as
[Illustration: Design on the Leather]
often as necessary to keep it sufficiently moist to work well. Trace the openings for the handles, also lines A-G, H-B, and E-G, G-J, and corresponding lines on the other side.
Remove pattern and trace the design directly on leather with the round point of tool, until it is made distinct and in marked contrast to the rest of the leather. Do not make sharp marks but round the edges of the lines nicely, with the rounded sides of the tools.
To complete the bag, get something with which to make a lining. A piece of oozed leather is the most satisfactory. Cut it the same size as the bag, place both together and with a leather punch, make holes all around the edge of the bag about 1/8 in. apart. Cut out the leather for the handle openings. Care should be taken not to cut the holes too near the edge of the bag lest the lacing pull out. Now cut narrow thongs, about 1/8 in. wide, and lace through the holes, lacing the sides of the end pieces in with the sides of the bag. Crease the lines A-G and B-H inward for ends of bag.
** Removing Wire Insulation [213]
The claw of a hammer can be used for removing the insulation on copper wire, if not more than 1 in. is taken off at a time.
** A Small Electric Motor [214]
The drawing herewith shows a simple electric motor which can be easily constructed by any boy who is at all handy with tools. I made this motor
[Illustration: Electro-Magnet Motor]
many times when a boy and can say that if carefully constructed it will run with greater rapidity than the more expensive ones.
A common magnet which can be purchased at any toy store is used. The one shown is 3-1/2 in. in length. The armature core is a strip of 1/16 by 1/4-in. iron, 2-1/4 in. long, bent U-shaped and fastened to the wood flywheel. Each leg of the armature is wound with 10 ft. of No. 24 gauge magnet wire. The commutator is made from an old 22 cartridge filed into two equal parts, each being a half circle, both of which are made fast to a collar on the shaft E. Each half of the commutator must be insulated from the other half. The collar can be made by wrapping paper around the shaft until the required size is obtained.
The top end of the shaft runs in a hole bored in a brass support, B, which is screwed on the end of a piece of wood mortised in the base, as shown in Fig. 1. The lower end of the shaft runs in a glass bead, D, which is fastened to a small piece of brass with sealing wax. The small brass piece is fastened to the base with screws. The bead should not have an eye larger in diameter than the shaft. The shaft is made from an old discarded knitting needle. The brushes are fastened to each side of the upright piece of wood supporting the brass bearing B.
The connections to the battery are shown in Fig. 2. Each half of the commutator C is connected to the coils AA as shown in Fig. 1. –Contributed by J.M. Shannon, Pasadena, Calif.
** Moving a Coin Under a Glass [214]
Place a penny or a dime on a tablecloth, towel or napkin and cover it over with a glass in such a way that the glass will rest upon two 25 or 50 cent pieces as shown in the sketch. The coin is made to come forth without touching it or sliding a stick under the edge of the glass. It is only necessary to claw the cloth near the glass with the nail of the forefinger.
[Illustration: Removing the Coin]
The cloth will produce a movement that will slide the coin to the edge and from under the glass.
** Improving Phonograph Sound [214]
When playing loud and harsh records on a phonograph the music is often spoiled by the vibration of the metal horn. This may be remedied by buckling a valise or shawl strap around the horn, near the center.
** How to Make Paper Balloons [215]
Balloons made spherical, or designed after the regular aeronaut’s hot-air balloon, are the best kind to make. Those having an odd or unusual shape will not make good ascensions, and in most
[Illustration: Paper Balloon; Pattern and Parts to Make Balloon]
cases the paper will catch fire from the torch and burn before they have flown very far. The following description is for making a tissue-paper balloon about 6 ft. high.
The paper may be selected in several colors, and the gores cut from these, pasted “in alternately, will produce a pretty array of colors when the balloon is in flight. The shape of a good balloon is shown in Fig. 1. The gores for a 6-ft. balloon should be about 8 ft. long or about one-third longer than the height of the balloon. The widest part of each gore is 16 in. The widest place should be 53-1/2 in. from the bottom end, or a little over half way from the bottom to the top. The bottom of the gore is one-third the width of the widest point. The dimensions and shape of each gore are shown in Fig. 2.
The balloon is made up of 13 gores pasted together, using about 1/2-in. lap on the edges. Any good paste will do–one that is made up of flour and water well cooked will serve the purpose. If the gores have been put together right, the pointed ends will close up the top entirely and the wider bottom ends will leave an opening about 20 in. in diameter. A light wood hoop having the same diameter as the opening is pasted to the bottom end of the gores. Two cross wires are fastened to the hoop, as shown in Fig. 3. These are to hold the wick ball, Fig. 4, so it will hang as shown in Fig. 5. The wick ball is made by winding wicking around a wire, having the ends bent into hooks as shown.
The balloon is filled with hot air in a manner similar to that used with the ordinary cloth balloon. A small trench or fireplace is made of brick having a chimney over which the mouth of the paper balloon is placed. Use fuel that will make heat with very little smoke. Hold the balloon so it will not catch fire from the flames coming out of the chimney. Have some alcohol ready to pour on the wick ball, saturating it thoroughly. When the balloon is well filled carry it away from the fireplace, attach the wick ball to the cross wires and light it.
In starting the balloon on its flight, take care that it leaves the ground as nearly upright as possible. –Contributed by R. E. Staunton.
** A Simple Steamboat Model [216]
The small boat shown in the accompanying sketch may have a length of 12 to 18 in. and is constructed in the
[Illustration: Sectional View and Completed Boat]
following manner: A small steam boiler, A, is supported by two braces over an alcohol lamp in the middle of the boat. A small pipe is fastened to the top of the boiler in such a way that the open end will be opposite the open end of another pipe, B, somewhat larger in size. The pipe B opens into the stern of the boat at C, as shown in Fig. 1. The steam, coming through the small pipe A, is driven forcibly through the larger pipe B, and carries with it a certain amount of air out through the opening C into the water. As the boat is driven forward by this force, the steam arises to the surface in the form of bubbles. The boat soon attains considerable speed, leaving a long wake behind.
** To Remove Grease from Machinery [216]
A good way to remove grease or oil from machinery before painting is to brush slaked lime and water over the surface, leaving the solution on over night. After washing, the iron is dried and the paint will stick to it readily. In removing grease from wood, common whitewash may be left on for a few hours and then washed off with warm water, after which the paint will adhere permanently.
** A Game Played on the Ice [216]
Two lines are drawn parallel on the ice from 50 to 100 ft. apart and blocks of wood are placed every 6 ft. apart on these lines. The player opening the game skates to the line and delivers, in bowling form, a sliding block similar to the blocks that are placed on the lines with the exception that it has a handle. The blocks are about 6 in. wide by 6 in. high and 8 in. long. The sliding blocks should be at least 1 ft. long and each provided with a handle. The handle is attached by boring a hole near one end in the middle of the block and driving in a wood pin. The hole is bored slanting so as to incline the handle. Two of these blocks are provided for the reason that when a player bowls one of the opposing player’s blocks over the line he is entitled to another throw. The side wins that bowls over all of the opposing
[Illustration: Bowling Over the Opponent’s Blocks]
players’ blocks first. This will prove an interesting and enjoyable pastime for skaters.
** Making Photo Silhouette Brass Plaques [217]
Secure a brass plate having a smooth surface the right size for the photograph and cover it with a coat of paraffin. This is done by heating the paraffin in a vessel hot enough to make the wax run freely, then pouring the liquid over the entire surface of the brass.
When the paraffin has cooled sufficiently the outlines of the photograph must be drawn upon its surface. There are three ways of doing this: First, the photograph can be traced on tissue paper and then retraced on the paraffin surface. The exact outlines of the photograph can be obtained this way without destroying the print. Second, if you have several copies of the photograph, one can be utilized by tracing direct to the surface of the paraffin. In using either of the two methods described, carbon paper must be placed on the paraffin before the tissue paper or photograph is laid upon it. Third, cut out the outlines of the photograph and lay it on the paraffin surface, then trace around the edges with the point of a needle or sharp point of a knife. The outlines drawn by the first method are cut through the paraffin in the same way. The paraffin is carefully removed from the inside of the lines, leaving the brass surface perfectly clean, as is shown in Fig. 1.
The exposed part of the plate is now ready to be etched or eaten away to the right depth with acid. The acid solution is made up of 1-1/2 parts muriatic acid and 2 parts water. The mixture should be placed in a glass or earthenware
[Illustration: Fig. 1 Waxed Brass Plate]
vessel. If the plate is a small one a saucer will do for the acid solution. Pour the acid on the plate where the paraffin has been removed and allow it time to etch. The acid should be removed every five minutes to examine the etching. If any places show up where the paraffin has not been entirely removed they must be cleaned so the acid will eat out the metal. When the acid solution becomes weak new solution must be added until the proper depth is secured. Rinse the plate in cold water, stand in a tray and heat it sufficiently to run off all the paraffin. Polish the plate by rubbing it with a piece of flannel.
The plaque can be given a real antique finish by painting the etched part with a dull black paint. Drill a small hole in each of the four corners, being careful not to dent the metal. The plaque is backed with a piece of wood 3/4 in. thick, the dimensions of which should exceed those of the brass plate sufficiently to harmonize with the size of the plaque. The wood should be painted black with the same paint used in the plaque. Paint the heads of four thumb tacks black and use them in fastening the plaque to the board. The finished silhouette will appear as shown in Fig. 2. –Contributed by John A. Hellwig, Albany, N. Y.
[Illustration: Fig. 2 Finished Plaque]
** Aligning Automobile Headlights [217]
Automobile headlights should be set to throw the light straight ahead, not pointed down at the road at an angle.
** Telescope Stand and Holder [218]
With the ordinary small telescope it is very difficult to keep the line of sight fixed upon any particular object. To meet the situation I constructed the
[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Made of a Camera Tripod]
device illustrated herewith. A circular piece of wood, B, 6 in. in diameter, is fastened to a common camera tripod, A, with a set screw, S. Corner irons, CC, are screwed to the circular piece. These corner irons are also screwed to, and supported in a vertical position by the wood standard D, which is 4 in. wide and of any desired height. To this standard is secured the wood shield-shaped piece E by the screw G upon which it turns. A semi-circular slit is cut in the piece G, through which passes the set screw S. The telescope is secured to the piece G by means of the pipe straps FF. Rubber bands are put around the telescope to prevent rubbing at the places where the straps enclose it.
The wood pieces were made of mahogany well rubbed with linseed oil to give them a finish. The corner irons and set screws or bolts with thumb-nuts can be purchased at any hardware store. The pipe straps of different sizes can be obtained from a plumber’s or gas and steam fitter’s store. With this device, either a vertical or a horizontal motion may be secured, and, after bringing the desired object into the line of sight, the set screws will hold the telescope in position. Anyone owning a tripod can construct this device in three or four hours’ time at a trifling cost. In Fig. 1 is shown the side view of the holder and stand, and Fig. 2 the front view.
It may be of interest to those owning telescopes without solar eyepieces to know that such an eyepiece can be obtained very cheaply by purchasing a pair of colored eyeglasses with very dark lenses and metal rims. Break off the frame, leaving the metal rims and nibs at each end. Place these over the eyepiece of the telescope and secure in place with rubber bands looped over the nibs and around the barrel of the instrument. –Contributed by R. A. Paine, Richmond, Va.
** How to Make an Electrical Horn [218]
Secure an empty syrup or fruit can, any kind having a smooth flat bottom will do. If the bottom is not perfectly flat, it will interfere with the regular tone vibrations, and not produce the right sound. Remove the label by soaking it in hot water. Take an ordinary electrical bell and remove the gong, clip off the striking ball and bend the rod at right angles. Cut a block of wood 3/4 in. thick, 5 in. wide and 8 in. long for the base. Fasten the can on it with a piece of sheet brass or
[Illustration: Tin Can and Bell Parts]
tin as shown in the sketch. Mount the bell vibrator on the base, using a small block of wood to elevate it to the level of the center of the can, and solder the end of the vibrator rod to the metal.
Connect two dry cells to the bell vibrator, and adjust the contact screw until a clear tone is obtained. The rapidly moving armature of the bell vibrator causes the bottom of the can to vibrate with it, thus producing sound waves. The pitch of the tone depends on the thickness of the bottom of the can. This horn, if carefully adjusted and using two cells of dry battery, will give a soft pleasant tone that can be heard a block away. If the two projecting parts of the vibrator are sawed off with a hacksaw, it can be mounted on the inside of the can. This will make a very compact electric horn, as only the can is visible. –Contributed by John Sidelmier, La Salle, Ill.
** Driving a Washing Machine with Motorcycle Power [219]
The halftone illustration shows how 1 rigged up my washing machine to be driven by the power from my motorcycle. I made a wheel 26 in. in diameter of some 1-in. pine boards, shrunk an iron band on it for a tire, and bolted it to the wheel on the washing machine. A long belt the same width as the motorcycle belt was used to drive the machine. The motorcycle was lined up and the engine started, then the motorcycle belt thrown off and the long belt run on, connecting the engine and washing machine wheel. -1. R. Kidder, Lake Preston, S. D.
[Illustration: Machine Belted to the Motorcycle]
** Home-Made Aquarium [219]
A good aquarium can be made from a large-sized street lamp globe and a yellow pine block. Usually a lamp globe costs less than an aquarium globe of the same dimensions. Procure a yellow pine block 3 in. thick and 12 in. square. The more uneven and twisted the grain the better for the purpose,
[Illustration: Lamp Globe as an Aquarium]
it is then less liable to develop a continuous crack.
Cut out a depression for the base of the globe as shown in Fig. 1. Pour in aquarium cement and embed the globe in it. Pour more cement inside of the globe until the cement is level with the top of the block. Finish with a ring of cement around the outside and sprinkle with fine sand while the cement is damp. Feet may be added to the base if desired. The weight of the pine block makes a very solid and substantial base for the globe and renders it less liable to be upset.
–Contributed by James R. Kane, Doylestown, Pa
** Protect Your Lathe [219]
Never allow lard oil to harden on a lathe.
** Frame for Displaying Both Sides of Coins [220]
It is quite important for coin collectors to have some convenient way to
[Illustration: Holding Coins between Glasses]
show both sides of coins without touching or handling them. If the collection consists of only a few coins, they can be arranged in a frame as shown in Fig. 1. The frame is made of a heavy card, A, Fig. 2, the same thickness as the coins, and covered over on each side with a piece of glass, B. Holes are cut in the card to receive the coins C. The frame is placed on bearings so it may be turned over to examine both sides. If there is a large collection of coins, the frame can be made in the same manner and used as drawers in a cabinet. The drawers can be taken out and turned over.
–Contributed by C. Purdy, Ghent, O.
** How to Make Lantern Slides [220]
A great many persons who have magic lanterns do not use them very much, for after the slides have been shown a few times, they become uninteresting, and buying new ones or even making them from photographic negatives is expensive. But by the method described in the following paragraph anyone can make new and interesting slides in a few minutes’ time and at a very small cost.
Secure a number of glass plates of the size that will fit your lantern and clean them on both sides. Dissolve a piece of white rosin in a half-pint of gasoline and flow it over one side of the plates and allow to dry. Place the dried plate over a picture you wish to reproduce and draw the outline upon the thin film. A lead pencil, pen and ink or colored crayons can be used, as the rosin and gasoline give a surface that can be written upon as easily as upon paper. When the slide becomes uninteresting it can be cleaned with a little clear gasoline and used again to make another slide. A slide can be made in this way in five minutes and an interesting outline picture in even less time than that.
This solution also makes an ideal retouching varnish for negatives.
–Contributed by J.E. Noble, Toronto, Canada.
** How to Make a Developing Box [220]
A box for developing 3-1/4 by 4-1/4 -in. plates is shown in detail in the accompanying sketch. It is made of strips of wood 1/4-in. thick, cut and grooved, and then glued together as indicated. If desired, a heavier piece can be placed on the bottom. Coat the inside of the box with paraffin or wax, melted and applied with a brush. Allow it to fill all crevices so that the developing box will be watertight. It will hold 4 oz. of developer. Boxes for larger plates
[Illustration: Details of the Developing Box]
can be made in the same manner. Use a small wooden clip in taking the plates out of the box, being careful not to scratch the sensitive film.
–Contributed by R.J. Smith, Milwaukee, Wis.
** Staining Wood [221]
A very good method of staining close-grained woods is to use muriatic acid. The acid is put on with a brush like any ordinary stain. The colors thus obtained are artistic and most beautiful, and cannot be duplicated by any known pigment. The more coats applied the darker the color will be. This method of staining has the advantage of requiring no wiping or rubbing. –Contributed by August T. Neyer, One Cloud, Cal.
** Sheet-Metal Whisk-Broom Holder [221]
A whisk-broom holder such as is shown in the accompanying picture may be easily made by the amateur. The tools needed are few: a pair of tin shears, a metal block of some kind upon which to pound when riveting, a hammer or mallet, several large nails, and a stout board upon which to work up the design. A rivet punch is desirable, though not absolutely necessary.
The material required is a sheet of No. 24 gauge copper or brass of a size equal to that of the proposed holder, plus a 3/8-in. border all around, into which to place the screws that are to be used to hold the metal to the board while pounding it. The design shown in the picture is 6 by 8 in. at the widest part and has proven a satisfactory holder for a small broom.
Carefully work out the design desired on a piece of drawing paper, both outline and decoration, avoiding sharp curves in the outline because they are hard to follow with the shears when cutting the metal. If the design is to be of two-part symmetry, like the one shown, draw one part, then fold on a center line and duplicate this by inserting double-surfaced carbon paper and tracing the part already drawn. With this same carbon paper transfer the design to the metal. Fasten the metal to the board firmly, using 1/2-in. screws placed about 1 in. apart in holes previously punched in the margin with a nail set or nail.
To flatten the metal preparatory to fastening it to the board, place a block of wood upon it and pound on this block, never upon the metal directly,
[Illustration: Completed Holder Brass Fastened to Board-Method of Riveting]
or the surface will be dented and look bad in the finished piece.
Take the nail, a 10 or 20-penny wire or cut, and file it to a chisel edge, rounding it just enough to take the sharpness off so that it will not cut the metal. This tool is used for indenting the metal so as to bring out the outline of the design on the surface.
There are several ways of working up the design. The simplest way is to take the nail and merely “chase” the outlines of holder design. Remove the screws, cut off the surplus metal and file the edges until they are smooth. Make a paper pattern for the metal band that is to hold the broom. Trace around this pattern on the metal and cut out the shape. Punch rivet holes in holder and band, also a hole by which to hang the whole upon the wall.
Rivet the band to the holder. Punch the rivet holes with a nail set and make the holes considerably larger than the diameter of the rivet, for in flattening the raised edges the holes will close. Do the riveting on a metal block and keep the head of the rivet on the back of the holder. Round up the “upset” end of the riveted part as shown in the picture. Do not bend it over or flatten it. This rounding is done by pounding around the outer edge of the rivet end and not flat upon the top as in driving a nail.
Clean the metal by scrubbing it off with a solution composed of one-half water and one-half nitric acid. Use a rag tied to a stick and do not allow the acid to touch either your hands or clothes. A metal lacquer may next be applied to keep the metal from early corrosion.
** How to Make a Camp Stool [222]
The stool, as shown in Fig. 1, is made of beech or any suitable wood
[Illustration: Camp Stool Details]
with a canvas or carpet top. Provide four lengths for the legs, each 1 in. square and 18-1/2 in. long; two lengths, l-1/8 in. square and 11 in. long, for the top, and two lengths, 3/4 in. square, one 8-1/2 and the other 10-1/2 in. long, for the lower rails.
The legs are shaped at the ends to fit into a 5/8-in. hole bored in the top pieces as shown in Fig. 2, the distance between the centers of the holes being 7-5/8 in. in one piece and 9-5/8 in. in the other. The lower rails are fitted in the same way, using a 1/2-in. hole bored into each leg 2-1/2 in. up from the lower end.
Each pair of legs has a joint for folding and this joint is made by boring a hole in the middle of each leg, inserting a bolt and riveting it over washers with a washer placed between the legs as shown in Fig. 3. The entire length of each part is rounded off for the sake of neatness as well as lightness.
About 1/2 yd. of 11-in. wide material will be required for the seat and each end of this is nailed securely on the under side of the top pieces. The woodwork may be stained and varnished or plain varnished and the cloth may be made to have a pleasing effect by stencilling in some neat pattern.
** A Small Home-Made Electric Motor [222]
The accompanying photographs show the construction of a very unique electric motor, the parts consisting of the frame from an old bicycle pedal wrapped with insulated wire to make the armature and three permanent magnets taken from an old telephone magneto. The pedal, being ball bearing, rotated with very little friction and at a surprisingly high rate of speed.
[Illustration: The Motor Complete]
The dust cap on the end of the pedal was removed and a battery connection, having quite a length of threads, was soldered to it as shown in the photograph. The flanges were removed from an ordinary spool and two strips of brass fastened on its circumference for the commutator. The spool was held in position by a small binding
[Illustration: Commutator Parts]
post nut. The shape of this nut made a good pulley for a cord belt.
–Contributed by John Shahan, Attalla, Ala.
** Rocker Blocks on Coaster Sleds [223]
The accompanying sketch shows a coasting sled with rocker blocks attached on both front and rear runners. The runners and the other parts of the sled are made in the usual way, but instead of fastening the rear runners solid to the top board and the front runners to turn on a solid plane fifth wheel, they are pivoted so each pair of runners will rock when going over bumps.
The illustration will explain this construction without going into detail and giving dimensions for a certain size, as these rocker blocks can be attached to any coaster or toboggan sled. It will be noticed that the top board may bend as much as it will under the load without causing the front ends of the rear runners and the
[Illustration: Coaster Sled with Rocker Runners]
rear ends of the front runners gouging into the snow or ice. –Contributed by W. F. Quackenbush, New York City.
** How to Make a Watch Fob [223]
[Illustration: Watch Fob]
This novelty watch fob is made from felt, using class, college or lodge colors combined in the making with emblems or initials colored on the texture. Two pieces of felt, each 1-1/4 in. wide and 4-1/4 in. long, are cut V-shaped on one end of each piece about 1 in. in depth, and 3/8 in. in from the other end of one piece cut a slit 1/2 in. long; the end of the other piece is folded over, making a lap of about 1 in., and a slit is cut through the double thickness to match the one cut in the first piece. The desired emblem, initial, or pennant is stenciled on the outside of the folded piece with class, college or lodge colors. The strap is made from a strip of felt 3/16 in. wide and 8-1/4 in. long; stitched on both edges for appearance. Make a hole with a punch 1-1/4 in. from one end, and two holes in the other, one about 1 in. and the other 2-3/4 in. from the end. Purchase a 1/2-in. buckle from a harness maker and you will have all the parts necessary for the fob. Assemble as shown in the sketch. The end of the strap having the two holes is put through the slots cut in the wide pieces and the tongue of the buckle is run through both holes. The other end is passed through the ring of the watch and fastened in the buckle as in an ordinary belt. –Contributed by C. D. Luther. Ironwood. Mich.
** Drill Lubricant [223]
A good lubricant for drilling is made by dissolving 3/4 to 1 lb. of sal-soda in one pailful of water.
** New Way to Remove a Bottle Stopper [224]
Take a bottle of liquid, something that is carbonated, and with the aid of a napkin form a pad which is applied
[Illustration: Removing the Stopper]
to the lower end of the bottle. Strike hard with repeated blows against the solid surface of a wall, as shown in the sketch, and the cork will be driven out, sometimes with so much force that a part of the liquid comes with it and deluges the spectators, if desired by the operator.
** Imitation Fancy Wings on Hinges [224]
The accompanying sketch shows how I overcame the hardware troubles when I was not able to find ready-made hinges in antique design