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A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels, Volume 14 by Robert Kerr

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does not seem liable to any valid objection. The astonishment it may
excite, is quite analogous to what is experienced on any discovery of
the important ends to which the instinctive labours of other creatures
are subservient, and is great, merely because of the conceived
magnitude of the object to which it relates. But this affords no
presumption against the truth of the theory; rather indeed, if the
doctrine of final causes be allowed any credit, may be held, as in
some degree, circumstantial evidence in its favour. We shall
elsewhere, it is expected, have occasion to consider the subject with
the attention it deserves.--E.


_Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the critical
Situation they were in, and of several Incidents that happened while they
lay in Oaiti-piha Bay._

On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, we saw Osnaburg Island, or
Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis, bearing S. by W. 1/2 W. Soon after I
brought-to, and waited for the Adventure to come up with us, to acquaint
Captain Furneaux that it was my intention to put into Oaiti-piha Bay, near
the south-east end of Otaheite, in order to get what refreshments we could
from that part of the island, before we went down to Matavia. This done, we
made sail, and at six in the evening saw the land bearing west. We
continued to stand on till midnight, when we brought-to, till four o'clock
in the morning, and then made sail in for the land with a fine breeze at

At day-break we found ourselves not more than half a league from the reef.
The breeze now began to fail us, and at last fell to a calm. This made it
necessary to hoist out our boats to tow the ships off; but all their
efforts were not sufficient to keep them from being carried near the reef.
A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts,
bringing with them a little fish, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which
they exchanged for nails, beads, &c. The most of them knew me again, and
many enquired for Mr Banks and others who were with me before; but not one
asked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our situation became still more
dangerous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the western
point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the
afternoon, when we came before an opening or break in the reef, through
which I hoped to get with the ships. But on sending to examine it, I found
there was not a sufficient depth of water; though it caused such an in-
draught of the tide of flood through it, as was very near proving fatal to
the Resolution; for as soon as the ships got into the stream, they were
carried with great impetuosity towards the reef. The moment I perceived
this, I ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readiness, to
be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not the
least effect. The horrors of shipwreck now stared us in the face. We were
not more than two cables length from the breakers; and yet we could find no
bottom to anchor, the only probable means we had left to save the ships.
We, however, dropt an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up,
the ship was in less than three fathom water, and struck at every fall of
the sea, which broke close under our stem in a dreadful surf, and
threatened us every moment with shipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily,
brought up close upon our bow without striking.

We presently carried out two kedge-anchors, with hawsers to each; these
found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew.
By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bower-anchor, we got the ship a-
float, where we lay some time in the greatest anxiety, expecting every
minute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawsers be cut in two
by the rocks. At length the tide ceased to act in the same direction. I
ordered all the boats to try to tow off the Resolution; and when I saw this
was practicable, we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a light air
came off from the land, which so much assisted the boats, that we soon got
clear of all danger. Then I ordered all the boats to assist the Adventure,
but before they reached her, she was under sail with the land-breeze, and
soon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable,
and two hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more safe at
sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on the very island we but a few
days before so ardently wished to be at. The calm, after bringing us into
this dangerous situation, very fortunately continued; for, had the sea-
breeze, as is usual, set in, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost,
and probably the Adventure too.

During the lime we were in this critical situation, a number of the natives
were on board and about the ships. They seemed to be insensible of our
danger, shewing not the least surprise, joy, or fear, when we were
striking, and left us a little before sun-set, quite unconcerned.[2]

We spent the night, which proved squally and rainy, making short boards;
and the next morning, being the 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay in
twelve fathoms water about two cables length from the shore; both ships
being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who brought
with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bananoes, apples, yams, and other roots,
which they exchanged for nails and beads. To several, who called themselves
chiefs, I made presents of shirts, axes, and several other articles, and,
in return, they promised to bring me hogs and fowls, a promise they never
did, nor ever intended to perform.

In the afternoon, I landed in company with Captain Furneaux, in order to
view the watering-place, and to sound the disposition of the natives, I
also sent a boat to get some water for present use, having scarcely any
left on board. We found this article as convenient as could be expected,
and the natives to behave with great civility.

Early in the morning, I sent the two launches and the Resolution's cutter,
under the command of Mr Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the anchors we had
left behind us; they returned about noon, with the Resolution's bower
anchor, but could not recover any of the Adventure's. The natives came off
again with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. I also had a
party on shore, trading under the protection of a guard; nothing, however,
was brought to market but fruit and roots, though many hogs were seen (I
was told) about the houses of the natives. The cry was, that they belonged
to Waheatoun the _Earee de hi_, or king, and him we had not yet seen,
nor, I believe, any other chief of note. Many, however, who called
themselves _Earees_, came on board, partly with a view of getting
presents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way.

One of this sort of _Earees_ I had, most of the day, in the cabin, and
made presents to him and all his friends, which were not few; at length he
was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out
of the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to me
against those on deck, which occasioned my turning them all out of the
ship. My cabin guest made good haste to be gone; I was so much exasperated
at his behaviour, that after he had got some distance from the ship, I
fired two muskets over his head, which made him quit the canoe, and take to
the water; I then sent a boat to take up the canoe, but as she came near
the shore, the people from thence began to pelt her with stones. Being in
some pain for her safety, as she was unarmed, I went myself in another boat
to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired
along the coast, which made them all retire from the shore, and I was
suffered to bring away two canoes without the least shew of opposition. In
one of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened, but I soon
dissipated his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on shore. A few
hours after, we were all good friends again, and the canoes were returned
to the first person who came for them.

It was not till the evening of this day, that any one enquired after Tupia,
and then but two or three. As soon as they learnt the cause of his death,
they were quite satisfied; indeed, it did not appear to me, that it would
have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death
been occasioned by any other means than by sickness. As little enquiry was
made after Aotourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But
they were continually asking for Mr Banks, and several others who were with
me in my former voyage.

These people informed us, that Toutaha, the regent of the greater peninsula
of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the two
kingdoms about five months before, and that _Otoo_ was the reigning
prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more of our principal friends about
Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of common people; but,
at present, a peace subsisted between the two kingdoms.

On the 19th, we had gentle breezes easterly, with some smart showers of
rain. Early in the morning, the boats were again sent to recover the
Adventure's anchors, but returned with the same ill success as the day
before, so that we ceased to look for them any longer, thinking ourselves
very happy in having come off so well, considering the situation we had
been in. In an excursion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coast,
we met with a chief who entertained us with excellent fish, fruit, &c. In
return for his hospitality, I made him a present of an axe and other
things; and he afterwards accompanied us back to the ships, where he made
but a short stay.

Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the dusk of the evening,
when one of the natives made off with a musquet belonging to the guard on
shore. I was present when this happened, and sent some of our people after
him, which would have been to little purpose, had not some of the natives,
of their own accord, pursued the thief. They knocked him down, took from
him the musquet, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occasion, certainly
operated more with them than principle. They deserve, however, to be
applauded for this act of justice, for, if they had not given their
immediate assistance, it would hardly have been in my power to have
recovered the musquet, by any gentle means whatever, and by making use of
any other, I was sure to lose more than ten times its value.

The 21st, the wind was at north, a fresh breeze. This morning a chief made
me a visit, and presented me with a quantity of fruit, among which, were a
number of cocoanuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown,
over board; these he had picked up, and tied in bundles so artfully, that
we did not at first perceive the cheat; when he was told of it, without
betraying the least emotion, and, as if he knew nothing of the matter, he
opened two or three of them himself, signified to us, that he was satisfied
it was so, and then went ashore and sent off a quantity of plantains and
bananoes. Having got on board a supply of water, fruit, and roots, I
determined to sail in the morning to Matavai, as I found it was not likely
that I should get an interview with Waheatoua, without which, it was very
improbable we should get any hogs. Two of the natives, who knew my
intention, slept on board, with a view of going with us to Matavai, but, in
the morning, the wind blew fresh at N.W., and as we could not sail, I sent
the trading party on shore as usual.

In the evening, I was informed that Waheatoua was come into the
neighourhood, and wanted to see me. In consequence of this information, I
determined to wait one day longer, in order to have an interview with this
prince. Accordingly, early the next morning, I set out in company with
Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the natives. We met the chief
about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meet
us; but, as soon as he saw us, he stopt, with his numerous train, in the
open air. I found him seated upon a stool, with a circle of people round
him, and knew him at first sight, and he me, having seen each other several
times in 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name of
Tearee, but, upon the death of his father, Waheatoun, he took upon him that

After the first salutation was over, having seated me on the same stool
with himself, and the other gentlemen on the ground by us, he began to
enquire after several by name who were with me on my former voyage. He next
enquired how long I would stay, and when I told him no longer than next
day, he seemed sorry, asked me to stay some months, and at last came down
to five days, promising, that in that time I should have hogs in plenty;
but, as I had been here already a week, without so much as getting one, I
could not put any faith in this promise; and yet, I believe, if I had
staid, we should have fared much better than at Matavai. The present I made
him consisted of a shirt, a sheet, a broad axe, spike-nails, knives,
looking-glasses, medals, beads, &c.; in return, he ordered a pretty good
hog to be carried to our boat. We staid with him all the morning, during
which time, he never suffered me to go from his side, where he was seated.
I was also seated on the same stool, which was carried from place to place
by one of his attendants, whom he called stool-bearer. At length we took
leave, in order to return on board to dinner, after which, we visited him
again, and made him more presents, and he, in return, gave Captain Furneaux
and me each of us an hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading
places; so that we got in the whole, to-day, as much fresh pork as gave the
crews of both the ships a meal; and this in consequence of our having this
interview with the chief.[3]

The 24th, early in the morning, we put to sea with a light land-breeze.
Soon after we were out, we got the wind at west, which blew in squalls,
attended with heavy showers of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to sea,
with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, and did not leave us till they had
disposed of their cargoes.

The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of the
Adventure's sick people; many of them, who had been so ill as not to be
able to move without assistance, were, in this short time so far recovered,
that they could walk about of themselves. When we put in here, the
Resolution had but one scorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had been
long sick, and who died the second day after our arrival, of a complication
of disorders, without the least mixture of the scurvy. I left Lieutenant
Pickersgill, with the cutter, behind the bay, to purchase hogs, as several
had promised to bring some down to-day, and I was not willing to lose them.

On the 25th; about noon, Mr Pickersgill returned with eight hogs, which he
got at Oaiti-piha. He spent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained
by Ereti, the chief of that district. It was remarkable, that this chief
never once asked after Aotouroo, nor did he take the least notice when Mr
Pickersgill mentioned his name. And yet M. de Bougainville tells us, this
is the very chief who presented Aotourou to him; which makes it the more
extraordinary, that he should neither enquire after him now, nor when he
was with us at Matavai, especially as they believed that we and M. de
Bougainville came from the same country, that is, from _Pretane_, for
so they called our country. They had not the least knowledge of any other
European nation, nor probably will they, unless some of those men should
return who had lately gone from the isle, of which mention shall be made
bye and bye. We told several of them, that M. de Bougainville came from
France, a name they could by no means pronounce; nor could they pronounce
that of Paris much better; so that it is not likely that they will remember
either the one or the other long; whereas _Pretane_ is in every
child's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was not till the
evening of this day that we arrived in Matavai bay.

[1] Perhaps few descriptions of natural scenery excel the following,
in real poetic effect:--"It was one of those beautiful mornings which
the poets of all nations have attempted to describe, when we saw the
isle of Otaheite, within two miles before us. The east-wind which had
carried us so far, was entirely vanished, and a faint breeze only
wafted a delicious perfume from the land, and curled the surface of
the sea. The mountains, clothed with forests, rose majestic in various
spiry forms, on which we already perceived the light of the rising
sun: Nearer to the eye a lower range of hills, easier of ascent,
appeared, wooded like the former, and coloured with several pleasing
hues of green, soberly mixed with autumnal browns. At their foot lay
the plain, crowned with its fertile bread-fruit trees, over which rose
innumerable palms, the princes of the grove. Here everything seemed as
yet asleep, the morning scarce dawned, and a peaceful shade still
rested on the landscape. We discovered, however, a number of houses
among the trees, and many canoes hauled up along the sandy beaches.
About half a mile from the shore a ledge of rocks level with the
water, extended parallel to the land, on which the surf broke, leaving
a smooth and secure harbour within. The sun beginning to illuminate
the plain, its inhabitants arose, and enlivened the scene. Having
perceived the large vessels on their coast, several of them hastened
to the beach, launched their canoes, and paddled towards us, who were
highly delighted in watching all their occupations."--G.F.

[2] "The natives on board, seeing us work so hard, assisted us in
manning the capstern, hauling in ropes, and performing all sorts of
labour. If they had had the least spark of a treacherous disposition,
they could not have found a better opportunity of distressing us; but
they approved themselves good-natured, and friendly in this, as on all
other occasions."--G.F.

[3] We tried all possible means to engage the people to sell some of
their hogs to us, and offered hatchets, shirts, and other goods of
value to the Taheitans; but still without success, their constant
answer being, that these animals were the king's (aree's) property.
Instead of acquiescing in this refusal, and acknowledging the kind
disposition of the natives, who furnished us at least with the means
of recovering our strength, and restoring our stock, a proposal was
made to the captains, by some persons in the ships, to sweep away, by
force, a sufficient number of hogs for our use, and afterwards to
return such a quantity of our goods in exchange to the natives, as we
should think adequate to the spoil we had taken. This proposal, which
nothing but the most tyrannical principles, and the meanest
selfishness could have dictated, was received with the contempt and
indignation which it justly deserved."--G.F.

This remark is of an earlier date than what is mentioned in the text,
but, in the whole, is more suitably introduced here. It is to the
praise of Cook, that his decision of character was founded on very
liberal views of morality; and that he possessed independence of soul
to manifest abhorrence of sinister suggestions, at the risk of losing
both the advantage aimed at, and the partiality of those who made
them. An apprehension of giving offence to men who are either esteemed
or felt to be useful, has perhaps occasioned as much iniquitous
conduct where the law of the strongest might be adopted, as ever
resulted from the influence of directly vicious principles. But from
this most mischievous weakness, it was one of the excellencies of that
truly great man to be exempt.--E.


_An Account of several Visits to and from Otoo; of Goats being left on
the Island; and many other Particulars which happened while the Ships lay
in Matavai Bay._

Before we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded with the natives; many
of whom I knew, and almost all of them knew me. A great crowd were gotten
together upon the shore; amongst whom was Otoo their king. I was just going
to pay him a visit, when I was told he was _mataow'd_, and gone to
Oparree. I could not conceive the reason of his going off in a fright, as
every one seemed pleased to see me. A chief, whose name was Maritata, was
at this time on board, and advised me to put off my visit till the next
morning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did.

After having given directions to pitch tents for the reception of the sick,
coopers, sail-makers, and the guard, I set out on the 26th for Oparree;
accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and others, Maritata and his
wife. As soon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom we found seated
on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd around him.
After the first compliments were over, I presented him with such articles
as I guessed were most valuable in his eyes; well knowing that it was my
interest to gain the friendship of this man. I also made presents to
several of his attendants; and, in return, they offered me cloth, which I
refused to accept; telling them that what I had given was for _tiyo_
(friendship). The king enquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were
with me in my former voyage, by name; although I do not remember that he
was personally acquainted with any of us. He promised that I should have
some hogs the next day; but I had much ado to obtain a promise from him to
visit me on board. He said he was, _mataou no to poupoue_, that is,
afraid of the guns. Indeed all his actions shewed him to be a timorous
prince. He was about thirty years of age, six feet high, and a fine,
personable, well-made man as one can see. All his subjects appeared
uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering,
is the making bare the head and shoulders, or wearing no sort of clothing
above the breast.

When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the astronomer's
observatories, set up on the same spot where we observed the transit of
Venus in 1769. In the afternoon, I had the sick landed; twenty from the
Adventure, all ill of the scurvy; and one from the Resolution. I also
landed some marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant
Edgecumbe of the marines.

On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid
me a visit. He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits,
a hog, and two large fish; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself,
with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. To
all of them I made presents; and, after breakfast, took the king, his
sister, and as many more as I had room for, into my boat, and carried them
home to Oparree. I had no sooner landed than I was met by a venerable old
lady, the mother of the late Toutaha. She seized me by both hands, and
burst into a flood of tears, saying, _Toutaha Tiyo no Toutee matty
Toutaha_--(Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead.) I was
so much affected with her behaviour, that it would have been impossible for
me to have refrained mingling my tears with hers, had not Otoo come and
taken me from her. I, with some difficulty, prevailed on him to let me see
her again, when I gave her an axe and some other things. Captain Furneaux,
who was with me, presented the king with two fine goats, male and female,
which if taken care of, or rather if no care at all is taken of them will
no doubt multiply. After a short stay, we look leave and returned on board.

Very early in the morning on the 28th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the
cutter, as far as Ottahourou, to procure hogs. A little after sun-rise, I
had another visit from Otoo, who brought me more cloth, a pig, and some
fruit. His sister, who was with him, and some of his attendants, came on
board; but he and others went to the Adventure with the like present to
Captain Furneaux. It was not long before he returned with Captain Furneaux
on board the Resolution, when I made him a handsome return for the present
he had brought me, and dressed his sister out in the best manner I could.
She, the king's brother, and one or two more, were covered before him to-
day. When Otoo came into the cabin, Ereti and some of his friends were
sitting there. The moment they saw the king enter, they stripped themselves
in great haste, being covered before. Seeing I took notice of it, they said
_Earee, Earee_; giving me to understand that it was on account of Otoo
being present. This was all the respect they paid him; for they never rose
from their seats, nor made him any other obeisance. When the king thought
proper to depart, I carried him again to Oparree in my boat; where I
entertained him and his people with the bagpipes (of which music they are
very fond) and dancing by the seamen. He then ordered some of his people to
dance also, which consisted chiefly of contortions. There were some,
however, who could imitate the seamen pretty well, both in country-dances
and hornpipes. While we were here, I had a present of cloth from the late
Toutaha's mother. This good old lady could not look upon me without
shedding tears; however, she was far more composed than before. When we
took leave, the king promised to visit me again the next day; but said that
I must first come to him. In the evening Mr Pickersgill came back empty,
but with a promise of having some hogs, if he would return in a few days.

Next morning after breakfast, I took a trip to Oparree, to visit Otoo as he
had requested, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and some of the officers. We
made him up a present of such things as he had not seen before. One article
was a broad-sword; at the sight of which he was so intimidated, that I had
much ado to persuade him to accept of it, and to have it buckled upon him;
where it remained but a short time, before he desired leave to take it off,
and send it out of his sight.

Soon after we were conducted to the theatre; where we were entertained with
a dramatic _heuva_, or _play_, in which were both dancing and
comedy. The performers were five men, and one woman, who was no less a
person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only; it
lasted about an hour and a half, or two hours; and, upon the whole, was
well conducted. It was not possible for us to find out the meaning of the
play. Some part seemed adapted to the present time, as my name was
frequently mentioned. Other parts were certainly wholly unconnected with
us. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner of acting it,
from those we saw at Ulielea in my former voyage. The dancing-dress of the
lady was more elegant than any I saw there, by being decorated with long
tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. As soon as all
was over, the king himself desired me to depart; and sent into the boat
different kinds of fruit and fish, ready dressed. With this we returned on
board; and the next morning he sent me more fruit, and several small
parcels of fish.

Nothing farther remarkable happened till ten o'clock in the evening, when
we were alarmed with the cry of murder, and a great noise, on shore, near
the bottom of the bay, at some distance from our encampment. I suspected
that it was occasioned by some of our own people; and immediately armed a
boat, and sent on shore, to know the occasion of this disturbance, and to
bring off such of our people as should be found there. I also sent to the
Adventure, and to the post on shore, to know who were missing; for none
were absent from the Resolution but those who were upon duty. The boat soon
returned with three marines and a seaman. Some others belonging to the
Adventure were also taken; and, being all put under confinement, the next
morning I ordered them to be punished according to their deserts. I did not
find that any mischief was done, and our people would confess nothing. I
believe this disturbance was occasioned by their making too free with the
women. Be this as it will, the natives were so much alarmed, that they fled
from their habitations in the dead of the night, and the alarm spread many
miles along the coast. For when I went to visit Otoo, in the morning, by
appointment, I found him removed, or rather fled, many miles from the place
of his abode. Even there I was obliged to wait some hours, before I could
see him at all; and when I did, he complained of the last night's riot.

As this was intended to be my last visit, I had taken with me a present
suitable to the occasion. Among other things were three Cape sheep, which
he had seen before and asked for; for these people never lose a thing by
not asking for it. He was much pleased with them; though he could be but
little benefited, as they were all weathers; a thing he was made acquainted
with. The presents he got at this interview entirely removed his fears, and
opened his heart so much, that he sent for three hogs; one for me, one for
Captain Furneaux, and one for Mr Forster. This last was small, of which we
complained, calling it _ete, ete_. Presently after a man came into the
circle, and spoke to the king with some warmth, and in a very peremptory
manner; saying something or other about hogs. We at first thought he was
angry with the king for giving us so many, especially as he took the little
pig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true cause of
his displeasure; for, presently after he was gone, a hog, larger than
either of the other two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we
took leave, I acquainted him that I should sail from the island the next
day; at which he seemed much moved, and embraced me several times. We
embarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed his
march back to Oparree.

The sick being all pretty well recovered, our water-casks repaired, and
water completed, as well as the necessary repairs of the ships, I
determined to put to sea without farther delay. Accordingly, on the 1st of
September, I ordered every thing to be got off from the shore, and the
ships to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the most of the day. In
the afternoon, Mr Pickersgill returned from Attahourou; to which place I
had sent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promised. My old
friend Pottatou, the chief of that district, his wife, or mistress, (I know
not which,) and some more of his friends, came along with Mr Pickersgill,
in order to visit me. They brought me a present of two hogs and some fish;
and Mr Pickersgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from Oamo; for he went
in the boat as far as Paparra, where he saw old Oberea. She seemed much
altered for the worse, poor, and of little consequence. The first words she
said to Mr Pickersgill were, _Earee mataou ina boa_, Earee is
frightened, you can have no hogs. By this it appeared that she had little
or no property, and was herself subject to the Earee, which I believe was
not the case when I was here before. The wind, which had blown westerly all
day, having shifted at once to the east, we put to sea; and I was obliged
to dismiss my friends sooner than they wished to go; but well satisfied
with the reception they had met with.

Some hours before we got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo,
came and desired I would take him with me. I consented, thinking he might
be of service to us on some occasion. Many more offered themselves, but I
refused to take them. This youth asked me for an axe and a spike-nail for
his father, who was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they parted
just as we were getting under sail, more like two strangers than father and
son. This raised a doubt in me whether it was so; which was farther
confirmed, by a canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-side, as we were
standing out of the bay, and demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. I
now saw that the whole was a trick to get something from me; well knowing
that Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the
matter. Poreo seemed, however, at first undetermined whether he should go
or stay; but he soon inclined to the former. I told them to return me the
axe and nails, and then he should go, (and so he really should,) but they
said they were on shore, and so departed. Though the youth seemed pretty
well satisfied, he could not refrain from weeping when he viewed the land

[1] Mr G.F. has been so successful in his Otaheitan delineations, that
though the subject occupied no small space of our preceding volume,
and must again engage our attention, when we treat of Cook's third
voyage, nevertheless we cannot help running the risk of the reader's
impatience by a transcript of some of his sketches. Speaking of the
natives first met with, he says, "The people around us had mild
features, and a pleasing countenance; they were about our size, of a
pale mahogany brown, had fine black hair and eyes, and wore a piece of
cloth round their middle of their own manufacture, and another wrapped
about the head in curious picturesque shapes like a turban. Among them
were several females, pretty enough to attract the attention of
Europeans, who had not seen their own countrywomen for twelve long
months past. These wore a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle,
through which they had passed the head, so that one part of the
garment hung down behind, and the other before, to the knees; a fine
white cloth like a muslin, was passed over this in various elegant
turns round the body, a little below the breast, forming a kind of
tunic, of which one turn sometimes fell gracefully across the
shoulder. If this dress had not entirely that perfect form, so justly
admired in the draperies of the ancient Greek statues, it was however
infinitely superior to our expectations, and much more advantageous to
the human figure, than any modern fashion we had hitherto seen."

"It was not long before some of these good people came aboard. That
peculiar gentleness of disposition, which is their general
characteristic, immediately manifested itself in all their looks and
actions, and gave full employment to those who made the human heart
their study. They expressed several marks of affection in their
countenance, took hold of our hands, leaned on our shoulders, or
embraced us. They admired the whiteness of our bodies, and frequently
pushed aside our clothes from the breast, as if to convince themselves
that we were made like them." According to this gentleman, it was the
women of the "baser sort," who yielded without difficulty to the
solicitations of the sailors. "Some of them," says he, "who came on
board for this purpose, seemed not to be above nine or ten years old,
and had not the least marks of puberty. So early an acquaintance with
the world seems to argue an uncommon degree of voluptuousness, and
cannot fail of affecting the nation in general. The effect, which was
immediately obvious to me, was the low stature of the common class of
people, to which all these prostitutes belonged. Among this whole
order, we saw few persons above the middle size, and many below it; an
observation which confirms what M. de Buffon has very judiciously said
on the subject of early connections of the sexes. Their features were
very irregular, and, in general, very ordinary, except the eyes, which
were always large and full of vivacity; but a natural smile, and a
constant endeavour to please, had so well supplied the want of beauty,
that our sailors were perfectly captivated, and carelessly disposed of
their shirts and clothes, to gratify their mistresses. The simplicity
of their dress, &c. might contribute to this attraction; and the view
of several of these nymphs swimming all nimbly round the sloop, such
as nature had formed them, was perhaps more than sufficient entirety
to subvert the little reason which a mariner might have left to govern
his passions. As trifling circumstances had given occasion to their
taking the water. One of the officers on the quarter-deck intended to
drop a bead into a canoe for a little boy about six years old; by
accident it missed the boat and fell into the sea, but the child
immediately leaped overboard, and diving after it, brought it up
again. To reward his performance, we dropped some more beads to him,
which so tempted a number of men and women, that they amused us with
amazing feats of agility in the water, and not only fetched up several
beads scattered at once, but likewise large nails, which, on account
of their weight, descended quickly to a considerable depth. Some of
them continued a long while under water, and the velocity with which
we saw them go down, the water being perfectly clear, was very
surprising. The frequent ablutions of these people seem to make
swimming familiar to them from their earliest childhood; and, indeed,
their easy position in the water, and the pliancy of their limbs, gave
us reason to look on them almost as amphibious creatures." These
trifling ornaments were most eagerly coveted by all ages and sexes,
and often prized much above any other European goods however useful,
so prevalent and powerful is the love of ornament in our species. "The
methods to obtain them from us were very different, and consequently
not always equally successful. When we distributed a few beads to one
set of people, some young fellows would impudently thrust their hands
in between them, and demand their share, as though it had been their
due; these attempts we always made it our business to discourage by a
flat refusal. It was already become difficult to deny a venerable old
man, who, with a hand not yet palsied by age, vigorously pressed ours,
and with a perfect reliance upon our good-nature, whispered the
petition in our ears. The elderly ladies, in general, made sure of a
prize by a little artful flattery. They commonly enquired for our
names, and then adopted us as their sons, at the same time introducing
to us the several relations, whom we acquired by this means. After a
series of little caresses, the old lady began, _Aima poe-eetee no te
tayo mettua?_ "Have you not a little bead for your kind mother?" Such
a trial of our filial attachment always had its desired effect, as we
could not fail to draw the most favourable conclusions from thence in
regard to the general kind disposition of the whole people: for to
expect a good quality in others, of which we ourselves are not
possessed, is a refinement in manners peculiar to polished nations.
Our other female relations in the bloom of youth, with some share of
beauty, and constant endeavours to please, laid a claim to our
affections by giving themselves the tender name of sisters; and all
the world will agree that this attack was perfectly irresistible." But
it must not be imagined that the fair sisters in this happy island,
any more than elsewhere, were exempt from certain ruder passions, by
which, at times, they seem to vie with the lords of the creation. Mr
F. has preserved a very characteristic trait of such a spirit of
domination in his account of one of the Potatow's wives, which may be
read, but it is to be hoped will not be imitated, by any of our female
friends. "Polatehera," says Mr F. "was so like him in stature and
bulk, (one of the tallest and stoutest men in the island,) that we
unanimously looked upon her as the most extraordinary woman we had
ever seen. Her appearance and her conduct were masculine in the
highest degree, and strongly conveyed the idea of superiority and
command. When the Endeavour bark lay here, she had distinguished
herself by the name of Captain Cook's sister, and one day, being
denied admittance into the fort on Point Venus, had knocked down the
sentry who opposed her, and complained to her adopted brother of the
indignity which had been offered to her." Altogether, however, this
gentleman is the eulogist of the natives and country of Otaheite, and
admits, that he left them with great regret. We shall conclude our
extracts from his description, by the following remarks as to the
language:--"Many of them seeing us desirous of learning their
language, by asking the names of various familiar objects, or
repeating such as we found in the vocabularies of former voyages, took
great pains to teach us, and were much delighted when we could catch
the just pronunciation of a word. For my own part, no language seemed
easier to acquire than this; every harsh and sibilant consonant being
banished from it, and almost every word ending in a vowel. The only
requisite, was a nice ear to distinguish the numerous modifications of
the vowels which must naturally occur in a language confined to few
consonants, and which, once rightly understood, give a great degree of
delicacy to conversation. Amongst several observations, we immediately
found that the O or E with which the greatest part of the names and
words in (the account of) Lieutenant Cook's first voyage, is nothing
else than the article, which many eastern languages affix to the
greater part of their substantives." He applies this observation to
the name of the island which he thinks has been fortunately expressed
by M. Bougainville in French, by Taiti, without the initial vowel
usually given to it in English books.--E.


_An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheine, with the Incidents
that happened while the Ships lay there; and of Omai, one of the Natives,
coming away in the Adventure._

As soon as we were clear of the bay, and our boats in, I directed my course
for the island of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the next
day, and spent the night, making short boards under the north end of the
island. At day-light, in the morning of the 3d, we made sail for the
harbour of Owharre; in which the Resolution anchored, about nine o'clock,
in twenty-four fathoms water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I chose
to turn in by the southern channel, it being the widest. The Resolution
turned in very well, but the Adventure, missing stays, got ashore on the
north side of the channel. I had the Resolution's launch in the water
ready, in case of an accident of this kind, and sent her immediately to the
Adventure. By this timely assistance, she was got off again, without
receiving any damage. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off to
us, bringing with them some of the productions of the island; and as soon
as the ships were both in safety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and was
received by the natives with the utmost cordiality. I distributed some
presents among them; and they presently after brought down hogs, fowls,
dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails,
beads, &c. The like trade was soon opened on board the ships; so that we
had a fair prospect of being plentifully supplied with fresh pork and
fowls; and to people in our situation, this was no unwelcome thing. I
learnt that my old friend Oree, chief of the isle, was still living, and
that he was hastening to this part to see me.

Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickersgill sailed with the cutter, on a
trading party, toward the south end of the isle. I also sent another
trading party on shore near the ships, with which I went myself, to see
that it was properly conducted at the first setting out, a very necessary
point to be attended to. Every thing being settled to my mind, I went,
accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to pay my first visit to
Oree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. We were conducted to the place
by one of the natives; but were not permitted to go out of our boat, till
we had gone through some part of the following ceremony usually performed
at this isle, on such like occasions. The boat in which we were desired to
remain being landed before the chief's house, which stood close to the
shore, five young plaintain trees, which are their emblems of peace, were
brought on board separately, and with some ceremony. Three young pigs, with
their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the first three;
and a dog, the fourth. Each had its particular name and purpose, rather too
mysterious for us to understand. Lastly, the chief sent to me the
inscription engraved on a small piece of pewter, which I left with him in
July 1769. It was in the same bag I had made for it, together with a piece
of counterfeit English coin, and a few beads, put in at the same time;
which shews how well he had taken care of the whole. When they had made an
end of putting into the boat the things just mentioned, our guide, who
still remained with us, desired us to decorate the young plaintain trees
with looking-glasses, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly
done, we landed with these in our hands, and were conducted towards the
chief, through the multitude; they making a lane, as it were, for us to
pass through. We were made to sit down a few paces short of the chief, and
our plantains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, as
the others had been laid before us. One was for _Eatoua_ (or God), the
second for the _Earee_ (or king), and the third for _Tiyo_ (or
friendship). This being done, I wanted to go to the king, but was told that
he would come to me; which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck, and
embraced me. This was by no means ceremonious; the tears which trickled
plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, sufficiently bespoke the
language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were
introduced to us, to whom we made presents. Mine to the chief consisted of
the most valuable articles I had; for I regarded this man as a father. In
return he gave me a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promising that all our
wants should be supplied; and it will soon appear how well he kept his
word. At length we took leave, and returned on board; and, some time after,
Mr Pickersgill returned also with fourteen hogs. Many more were got by
exchanges on shore, and along-side the ships; besides fowls and fruit in

This good old chief made me a visit early in the morning on the 5th,
together with some of his friends, bringing me a hog and some fruit, for
which I made him a suitable return. He carried his kindness so far, as not
to fail to send me every day, for my table, the very best of ready dressed
fruit and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickersgill being again
sent with the two boats, in search of hogs, returned in the evening with
twenty-eight; and about four times that number were purchased on shore, and
along-side the ships.

Next morning the trading party, consisting of only two or three people,
were sent on shore as usual; and, after breakfast, I went to the place
myself, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very troublesome
and insolent. This man being pointed out to me, completely equipped in the
war habit, with a club in each hand, as he seemed bent on mischief, I took
these from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with some difficulty,
forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief,
this made me the more suspicious of him, and occasioned me to send for a
guard, which till now I had thought unnecessary. About this time, Mr
Sparrman, having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was set upon by two
men, who stripped him of every thing he had about him, except his trowsers,
and struck him several times with his own hanger, but happily did him no
harm. As soon as they had accomplished their end, they made off; after
which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and
conducted him to the trading place, where were a great number of the
inhabitants. The very instant Mr Sparrman appeared in the condition I have
just mentioned, they all fled with the utmost precipitation. I at first
conjectured they had stolen something; but we were soon undeceived upon Mr
Sparrman's relating the affair to us. As soon as I could recal a few of the
natives, and had made them sensible that I should take no step to injure
those who were innocent, I went to Oree to complain of this outrage, taking
with us the man who came back with Mr Sparrman, to confirm the complaint.
As soon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, as did
many others. After the first transports of his grief were over, he began to
expostulate with his people, telling them (as far as we could understand)
how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how
base it was in them to commit such actions. He then took a very minute
account of the things Mr Sparrman had been robbed of, promised to do all in
his power to recover them, and, rising up, desired me to follow him to my
boat. When the people saw this, being, as I supposed, apprehensive of his
safety, they used every argument to dissuade him from what they, no doubt,
thought a rash step. He hastened into the boat, notwithstanding all they
could do or say. As soon as they saw their beloved chief wholly in my
power, they set up a great outcry. The grief they shewed was inexpressible;
every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed, entreated, nay, attempted
to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my entreaties to theirs; for I
could not bear to see them in such distress. All that could be said, or
done, availed nothing. He insisted on my coming into the boat, which was no
sooner done than he ordered it to be put off. His sister, with a spirit
equal to that of her royal brother, was the only person who did not oppose
his going. As his intention in coming into our boat was to go with us in
search of the robbers, we proceeded accordingly as far as was convenient by
water, then landed, entered the country, and travelled some miles inland,
the chief leading the way, enquiring of every one he saw. At length he
stepped into a house by the road side, ordered some cocoa-nuts for us, and
after we were a little refreshed, wanted to proceed still farther. But this
I opposed, thinking that we might be carried to the very farthest end of
the island, after things, the most of which, before they came into our
hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief used many
arguments to persuade me to proceed, telling me that I might send my boat
round to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if I
thought it too far to travel. But I was resolved to return, and he was
obliged to comply and return with me, when he saw I would follow him no
farther. I only desired he would send somebody for the things; for I found
that the thieves had got so much start of us, that we might follow them to
the remotest parts of the isle, without so much as seeing them. Besides, as
I intended to sail the next morning, this occasioned a great loss to us, by
putting a stop to all manner of trade; for the natives were so much
alarmed, that none came near us, but those that were about the chief. It
therefore became the more necessary for me to return, to restore things to
their former state. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oree's
sister, and several more persons, who had travelled by land to the place.
We immediately stepped into the boat in order to return on board, without
so much as asking the chief to accompany us. He, however, insisted on going
also, and followed us into the boat in spite of the opposition and
entreaties of those about him; his sister followed his example, and the
tears and prayers of her daughter, who was about sixteen or eighteen years
of age, had no weight with her on this occasion. The chief sat at table
with us, and made a hearty dinner; his sister, according to custom, eat
nothing. After dinner, I sufficiently rewarded them for the confidence they
had put in me; and, soon after, carried them both on shore, where some
hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of whom embraced their
chief with tears of joy. All was now joy and peace: The people crowded in,
from every part, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, so that we presently filled
two boats: Oree himself presented me with a large hog and a quantity of
fruit. The hanger (the only thing of value Mr Sparrman had lost) with part
of his coat, were brought us; and we were told, we should have the others
the next day. Some of the officers, who were out on a shooting party, had
some things stolen from them, which were returned in like manner.

Thus ended the troublesome transactions of this day, which I have been the
more particular in relating, because it shews what great confidence this
brave old chief put in us; it also in some degree shews, that friendship is
sacred with them. Oree and I were professed friends in all the forms
customary among them; and he seemed to think that this could not be broken
by the act of any other persons. Indeed this seemed to be the great
argument he made use of to his people, when they opposed his going into my
boat. His words were to this effect:--"Oree (meaning me, for so I was
always called) and I are friends; I have done nothing to forfeit his
friendship; why then should I not go with him?" We, however, may never find
another chief who will act in the same manner, under similar circumstances.
It may be asked, What had he to fear? to which I answer, Nothing. For it
was not my intention to hurt a hair of his head, or to detain him a moment
longer than he desired. But how was he or the people to know this? They
were not ignorant, that if he was once in my power, the whole force of the
island could not take him from me, and that, let my demands for his ransom
have been ever so high, they must have complied with them. Thus far their
fears, both for his and their own safety, were founded in reason.

On the 7th, early in the morning, while the ships were unmooring, I went to
pay my farewell visit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr
Forster. We took with us for a present, such things as were not only
valuable, but useful. I also left with him the inscription plate he had
before in keeping, and another small copper-plate, on which were engraved
these words: "Anchored here, his "Britannic Majesty's ships Resolution and
Adventure, September, 1773," together with some medals, all put up in a
bag; of which the chief promised to take care, and to produce to the first
ship or ships that should arrive at the island. He then gave me a hog; and,
after trading for six or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, we
took leave, when the good old chief embraced me with tears in his eyes. At
this interview nothing was said about the remainder of Mr Sparrman's
clothes. I judged they were not brought in; and for that reason did not
mention them, lest I should give the chief pain about things I did not give
him time to recover; for this was early in the morning.

When we returned to the ships, we found them crowded round with canoes full
of hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our first arrival. I had not been long on
board, before Oree himself came to inform me, as we understood, that the
robbers were taken, and to desire us to go on shore, either to punish, or
to see them punished; but this could not be done, as the Resolution was
just under sail, and the Adventure already out of the harbour. The chief
stayed on board till we were a full half league out at sea; then took a
most affectionate leave of me; and went away in a canoe, conducted by one
man and himself; all the others having gone long before. I was sorry that
it was not convenient for me to go on shore with him, to see in what manner
these people would have been punished; for I am satisfied, this was what
brought him on board.

During our short stay at the small but fertile isle of Huaheine, we
procured to both ships not less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls and
fruits; and, had we stayed longer, might have got many more: For none of
these articles of refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared every
where in as great abundance as ever.[2]

Before we quitted this island, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board
his ship a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea; where he had had some
property, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. I at
first rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himself with
this man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper sample of the inhabitants of
these happy islands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank;
nor being eminent in shape, figure, or complexion: For their people of the
first rank are much fairer, and usually better behaved, and more
intelligent, than the middling class of people, among whom Omai is to be
ranked. I have, however, since my arrival in England, been convinced of my
error: For excepting his complexion (which is undoubtedly of a deeper hue
than that of the _Earees_, or gentry, who, as in other countries, live
a more luxurious life, and are less exposed to the heat of the sun), I much
doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more general
satisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has most certainly a very good
understanding, quick parts, and honest principles; he has a natural good
behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the best company; and a proper
degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the society of persons of
inferior rank. He has passions of the same kind as other young men, but has
judgment enough not to indulge them in any improper excess. I do not
imagine that he has any dislike to liquor, and if he had fallen into
company where the person who drank the most met with the most approbation,
I have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applause of
those with whom he associated; but, fortunately for him, he perceived that
drinking was very little in use but among inferior people, and as he was
very watchful into the manners and conduct of the persons of rank who
honoured him with their protection, he was sober and modest, and I never
heard that, during the whole time of his stay in England, which was two
years, he ever once was disguised with wine, or ever shewed an inclination
to go beyond the strictest rules of moderation.

Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the first Lord of
the Admiralty, introduced him to his majesty at Kew, when he met with a
most gracious reception, and imbibed the strongest impression of duty and
gratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am persuaded he will
preserve to the latest moment of his life. During his stay among us he was
caressed by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the
esteem of any one of them; but his principal patrons were the Earl of
Sandwich, Mr Banks, and Dr Solander; the former probably thought it a duty
of his office to protect and countenance an inhabitant of that hospitable
country, where the wants and distresses of those in his department had been
alleviated and supplied in the most ample manner; the others, as a
testimony of their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with
during their residence in his country. It is to be observed, that though
Omai lived in the midst of amusements during his residence in England, his
return to his native country was always in his thoughts, and though he was
not impatient to go, he expressed a satisfaction as the time of his return
approached. He embarked with me in the Resolution, when she was fitted out
for another voyage, loaded with presents from his several friends, and full
of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among

[1] "On the walk to Oree's house, Dr Sparrman and I saw great numbers
of hogs, dogs, and fowls. The last roamed about at pleasure through
the woods, and roosted on fruit-trees; the hogs were likewise allowed
to run about, but received regular portions of food, which were
commonly distributed by old women. We observed one of them, in
particular, feeding a little pig with the same fermented bread-fruit
paste, called _mahei_; she held the pig with one hand, and offered it
a tough pork's skin, but as soon as it opened the mouth to snap at it,
she contrived to throw in a handful of the same paste, which the
little animal would not take without this stratagem. The dogs, in
spite of their stupidity, were in high favour with all the women, who
could not have nursed them with a more ridiculous affection, if they
had really been ladies of fashion in Europe. We were witnesses of a
remarkable instance of kindness, when we saw a middle-aged woman,
whose breasts were full of milk, offering them to a little puppy,
which had been trained up to suck them. We were so much surprised at
this sight, that we could not help expressing our dislike of it; but
she smiled at our observation, and added, that she suffered little
pigs to do the same service. Upon enquiry, however, we found that she
had lost her child, and did her the justice amongst ourselves to
acknowledge, that this expedient was very innocent, and formerly
practised in Europe."--G.F.

He might have added, and still is. It is quite usual in this country
to use puppies in order to draw the breasts, when distended with milk,
from the want or inability of a child to suck them. But it is,
perhaps, quite erroneous to ascribe the practice to affection or
kindness, in either Europe or Otaheite.--E.

[2] "The people of this island appeared to be so exactly like the
Taheitians, that we could perceive no difference, nor could we by any
means verify that assertion of former navigators, that the women of
this island were in general fairer, and more handsome; but this may
vary according to circumstances. They were, however, not so
troublesome in begging for beads and other presents, nor so forward to
bestow their favours on the new comers, though at our landing and
putting off, some of the common sort frequently performed an indecent
ceremony, which is described in the accounts of former voyages, but
without any of the preparatory circumstances which Ooratooa practised.
We had likewise much less reason to extol the hospitality of the
inhabitants, their general behaviour being rather more indifferent,
and the Taheitian custom of reciprocal presents almost entirely
unknown. On our walks, we were unmolested, (Mr F. relates also the
assault of Dr Sparrman) but their conduct was bolder and more
unconcerned than that of the Taheitians, and the explosion, as well as
the effects of our fowling-pieces, did not strike them with fear and
astonishment. These differences were certainly owing to the various
treatment which the people of both islands had met with on the part of
Europeans. There were, however, not wanting instances of hospitality
and good-will even here."--G.F.


_Arrival at, and Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea: With an Account of
what happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the Natives, coming away in the

The chief was no sooner gone, than we made sail for Ulietea (where I
intended to stop a few days). Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at the
close of the day, we spent the night making short boards. It was dark, but
we were sufficiently guided by the fishers lights on the reefs and shores
of the isles. The next morning, after making a few trips, we gained the
entrance of the harbour; and, as the wind blew directly out, I sent a boat
to lie in soundings, that we might know when to anchor. As soon as the
signal was made by her, we borrowed close to the south point of the
channel; and, with our sails set, shooting within the boat, we anchored in
seventeen fathoms water. We then carried out anchors and hawsers, to warp
in by; and, as soon as the Resolution was out of the way, the Adventure
came up in like manner, and warped in by the Resolution. The warping in,
and mooring the ships, took up the whole day.

We were no sooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than the
natives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latter
they exchanged for nails and beads; the former we refused as yet, having
already as many on board as we could manage. Several we were, however,
obliged to take, as many of the principal people brought off little pigs,
pepper, or eavoa-root, and young plantain trees, and handed them into the
ship, or put them into the boats along-side, whether we would or no; for if
we refused to take them on board, they would throw them into the boats. In
this manner, did these good people welcome us to their country.

I had forgot to mention, that Tupia was much enquired after at Huaheine;
but, at this place, every one asked about him, and the occasion of his
death; and, like true philosophers, were perfectly satisfied with the
answers we gave them. Indeed, as we had nothing but the truth to tell, the
story was the same, by whomsoever told.

Next morning we paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the
isle, carrying with us the necessary presents. We went through no sort of
ceremony at landing, but were at once conducted to him. He was seated in
his own house, which stood near the water side, where he and his friends
received us with great cordiality. He expressed much satisfaction at seeing
me again, and desired that we might exchange names, which I accordingly
agreed to. I believe this is the strongest mark of friendship they can show
to a stranger. He enquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, who
were with me when I first visited the island. After we had made the chief
and his friends the necessary presents, we went on board with a hog, and
some fruit, received from him in return; and in the afternoon he gave me
another hog, still larger, without asking for the least acknowledgment.
Exchanges for fruit, &c. were mostly carried on alongside the ships. I
attempted to trade for these articles on shore, but did not succeed, as the
most of them were brought in canoes from distant parts, and carried
directly to the ships.

After breakfast, on the 10th, Captain Furneaux and I paid the chief a
visit; and we were entertained by him with such a comedy, or dramatic
_heava_, as is generally acted in these isles. The music consisted of
three drums, the actors were seven men, and one woman, the chief's
daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama, was a theft committed by
a man and his accomplice, in such a masterly manner, as sufficiently
displayed the genius of the people in this vice. The theft is discovered
before the thief has time to carry off his prize; then a scuffle ensues
with those set to guard it, who, though four to two, are beat off the
stage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their plunder in
triumph. I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full
expectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before
been informed that _Teto_ (that is, the Thief) was to be acted, and
had understood that the theft was to be punished with death, or a good
_tiparahying_ (or beating), a punishment, we are told, they inflict on
such as are guilty of this crime. Be this as it may, strangers are
certainly excluded from the protection of this law; them they rob with
impunity, on every occasion that offers. After the play was over, we
returned on board to dinner; and in the cool of the evening took a walk on
shore, where we learnt from one of the natives, that nine small islands,
two of which were uninhabited, lay to the westward, at no great distance
from hence.[1]

On the 11th, early in the morning, I had a visit from Oreo and his son, a
youth about twelve years of age. The latter brought me a hog and some
fruit; for which I made him a present of an axe, and dressed him in a
shirt, and other things, which made him not a little proud of himself.
Having staid some hours, they went on shore; as I also did soon after, but
to another part. The chief hearing I was on shore, came to the place where
he found the boat, into which he put a hog and a quantity of fruit, without
saying a word to any body, and, with some of his friends, came on board,
and dined with us. After dinner I had a visit from Oo-oorou, the principal
chief of the isle. He was introduced to us by Oreo, and brought with him,
as a present, a large hog, for which I made him a handsome return. Oreo
employed himself in buying hogs for me (for we now began to take of them),
and he made such bargains as I had reason to be satisfied with. At length
they all took leave, after making me promise to visit them next morning;
which I accordingly did, in company with several of the officers and
gentlemen. Oreo ordered an _heava_ to be acted for our entertainment,
in which two very pretty young women were the actresses. This _heava_
was somewhat different from the one I saw before, and not so entertaining.
Oreo, after it was over, accompanied us on board, together with two of his

The following day was spent much in the same manner; and early in the
morning of the 14th, I sent Mr Pickersgill, with the Resolution's launch,
and Adventure's cutter, to Otaha, to procure an additional supply of
bananoes, and plantains, for a sea-store; for we could get little more of
these articles at Ulietea than were sufficient for present consumption.
Oreo, and some of his friends, paid me a pretty early visit this morning. I
acquainted the chief, that I would dine with him, and desired he would
order two pigs to be dressed after their manner, which he accordingly did,
and, about one o'clock, I, and the officers and gentlemen of both ships,
went to partake of them. When we came to the chiefs house, we found the
cloth laid; that is, green leaves were strewed thick on the floor. Round
them we seated ourselves; presently one of the pigs came over my head souce
upon the leaves, and immediately after the other; both so hot as hardly to
be touched. The table was garnished round with hot bread-fruit and
plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man being
ready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony; and it
must be owned, in favour of their cookery, that victuals were never
cleaner, nor better dressed. For, though the pigs were served up whole, and
one weighed between fifty and sixty pounds, and the other about half as
much, yet all the parts were equally well done, and eat much sweeter than
if dressed in any of our methods. The chief and his son, and some other of
his male friends, eat with us, and pieces were handed to others who sat
behind: For we had a vast crowd about us; so that it might be truly said we
dined in public. The chief never failed to drink his glass of Madeira
whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when he
dined with us, without ever being once affected by it. As soon as we had
dined, the boat's crew took the remainder; and by them, and those about
them, the whole was consumed. When we rose up, many of the common people
rushed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which they
searched the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe, that though
there is plenty of pork at these isles, but little falls to their share.
Some of our gentlemen being present when these pigs were killed and
dressed, observed the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c. into ten or
twelve equal parts, and serve it out to certain people. Several daily
attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, for the sake of the entrails
of the hogs we killed. Probably little else falls to the share of the
common people. It however must be owned, that they are exceedingly careful
of every kind of provision, and waste nothing that can be eaten by man;
flesh and fish especially.

In the afternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had been
acted almost every day since we had been here, either to entertain
_us_, or for their own amusement, or perhaps both.[2]

Next morning produced some circumstances which fully prove the timorous
disposition of these people. We were surprised to find that none of them
came off to the ships as usual. Two men belonging to the Adventure having
staid on shore all night, contrary to orders, my first conjectures were,
that the natives had stripped them, and were now afraid to come near us,
lest we should take some step to revenge the insult; but in order to be
better satisfied, Captain Furneaux and I went ashore to Oreo's house, which
we found quite empty; he and all his family gone, and the whole
neighbourhood, in a manner, quite deserted. The two men belonging to the
Adventure made their appearance, and informed us that they had been very
civilly treated by the natives, but could give no account of the cause of
their precipitate flight. All that we could learn from the very few that
durst come near us, was, that severals were killed, others wounded by our
guns, pointing out to us where the balls went in and out of the body, &c.
This relation gave me a good deal of uneasiness for the safety of our
people gone to Otaha, fearing that some disturbance had happened at that
island. However, in order to be better informed, I determined, if possible,
to see the chief himself. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, having one
of the natives with us, and rowed along shore to the northward, the way we
were told he was gone. We soon came in sight of the canoe in which he was;
but before we could come up with her he had got on shore. We landed
presently after, and found he was gone still farther. An immense crowd,
however, waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One man
offered to carry me on his back; but the whole story appearing rather more
mysterious than ever, and being all unarmed, I did not choose to separate
myself from the boat, but embarked again, and rowed after him. We soon came
before the place where our guide told us he was, and put in the boat
accordingly. It grounded at some distance from the shore, where we were met
by a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. She threw herself into my arms,
and wept bitterly, insomuch that it was not possible to get one plain word
from her. With this old lady in my hand I went ashore, contrary to the
advice of my young man from Otaheite, who was more afraid than any of us,
probably believing every word the people had told us. I found the chief
seated under the shade of a house, before which was a large area, and
surrounded by a vast number of people. As soon as I came to him, he threw
his arms about me, and burst into tears, in which he was accompanied by all
the women, and some of the men, so that the lamentation became general;
astonishment alone kept me from joining with them. It was some time before
I could get a word from any one; at last, all my enquiries gave me no other
information, than that they were alarmed on account of our boats being
absent, thinking that the people in them had deserted from us, and that I
should take some violent means to recover them. For when we assured them
that the boats would return back, they seemed cheerful and satisfied, and
to a man, denied that any one was hurt, either of their own or our people,
and so it afterwards proved. Nor did it appear that there was the least
foundation for these alarms, nor could we ever find out by what means this
general consternation first took its rise. After a stay of about an hour, I
returned on board, three of the natives coming along with us, who
proclaimed the peace as we rowed along shore to all they saw.

Thus matters were again restored to their former footing, and the next
morning they came off to the ships as usual. After breakfast, Captain
Furneaux and I paid the chief a visit; we found him at his own house
perfectly easy, insomuch that he and some of his friends came on board and
dined with us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young man, Poreo, had
taken a resolution to leave me. I have just mentioned _before_, his
being with us when I followed Oreo, and his advising me not to go on shore.
He was so much afraid at that time, that he remained in the boat till he
heard all matters were reconciled; then he came out, and presently after,
met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendship. Having my
powder-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one of my people who was by
me, and then went away with her, and I saw him no more.

In the afternoon, our boats returned from Otaha, pretty well laden with
plantains, an article we were most in want of. They made the circuit of the
island, conducted by one of the Earees, whose name was Boba, and were
hospitably entertained by the people, who provided them with victuals and
lodging. The first night, they were entertained with a play, the second,
their repose was disturbed by the natives stealing their military chest.
This put them on making reprisals, by which means they recovered the most
of what they had lost.

Having now got on board a large supply of refreshments, I determined to put
to sea the next morning, and made the same known to the chief, who promised
to see me again before we departed. At four o'clock we began to unmoor; and
as soon as it was light, Oreo, his son, and some of his friends, came
aboard. Many canoes also came off with fruit and hogs, the latter they even
begged of us to take from them, calling out _Tiyo boa atoi_.--I am
your friend, take my hog, and give me an axe. But our decks. were already
so full of them, that we could hardly move, having, on board both ships,
between three and four hundred. By the increase of our stock, together with
what we had salted and consumed, I judge that we got at this island 400 or
upwards; many, indeed, were only roasters, others again weighed one hundred
pounds, or upwards, but the general run was from forty to sixty. It is not
easy to say how many we might have got, could we have found room for all
that were offered us.

The chief, and his friends, did not leave me till we were under sail, and
before he went away, pressed me much to know, if I would not return, and
when? Questions which were daily put to me by many of these islanders. My
Otaheitean youth's leaving me proved of no consequence, as many young men
of this island voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought proper
to take on board one, who was about seventeen or eighteen years of age,
named Oedidee, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great
Opoony, chief of that island. Soon after we were out of the harbour, and
had made sail, we observed a canoe following us, conducted by two men;
whereupon I brought-to, and they presently came alongside, having brought
me a present of roasted fruit and roots from Oreo. I made them a proper
return before I dismissed them, and then set sail to the west, with the
Adventure in company.

[1] "The accounts of the situation and distances of these isles, were
so various and so vague, that we could by no means depend upon them,
for we never met with any man who had visited them; however, they
served to convince us, that the natives of the Society Isles have
sometimes extended their navigation farther than its present limits,
by the knowledge they have of several adjacent countries. Tupaya
(Tupia), the famous man who embarked at Taheitee in the Endeavour, had
enumerated a much more considerable list of names, and had actually
drawn a map of their respective situations and magnitudes, of which
Lieutenant Pickersgill obligingly communicated a copy to me. In this
map we found all the names now mentioned, except two; but if his
drawing had been exact, our ships must have sailed over a number of
the islands which he had laid down. It is therefore very probable,
that the vanity of appearing more intelligent than he really was, had
prompted him to produce this fancied chart of the South Sea, and
perhaps to invent many of the names of islands in it, which amounted
to more than fifty."--G.F.

[2] Some of our readers might be profited, perhaps, by considering the
moral of the following incident, which occurred at this play.--"Among
the spectators we observed several of the prettiest women of this
country; and one of them was remarkable for the whitest complexion we
had ever seen on all these islands. Her colour resembled that of white
wax a little sullied, without having the least appearance of sickness,
which that hue commonly conveys; and her fine black eyes and hair
contrasted so well with it, that she was admired by us all. She
received at first a number of little presents, which were so many
marks of homage paid at the shrine of beauty; but her success, instead
of gratifying, only sharpened her love of trinkets, and she
incessantly importuned every one of us, as long as she suspected we
had a single bead left. One of the gentlemen fortunately happened to
have a little padlock in his hand, which she begged for as soon as she
had perceived it. After denying it for some time, he consented to give
it her, and locked it in her ear, assuring her that was its proper
place. She was pleased for some time; but finding it too heavy,
desired him to unlock it. He flung away the key, giving her to
understand, at the same time, that he had made her the present at her
own desire, and that if she found it encumbered her, she should bear
it as a punishment for importuning us with her petitions. She was
disconsolate upon this refusal, and weeping bitterly, applied to us
all to open the padlock; but if we had been willing, we were not able
to comply with her request, for want of the key. She applied to the
chief, and he as well as his wife, son, and daughter, joined in
praying for the release of her ear: They offered cloth, perfume-wood,
and hogs, but all in vain. At last a small key was found to open the
padlock, which put an end to the poor girl's lamentation, and restored
peace and tranquillity among all her friends. Her adventure had,
however, this good effect, that it cured her, and some of her forward
country-women, of this idle habit of begging."--G.F.


_An Account of a Spanish Ship visiting Otaheite; the present State of the
Islands; with some Observations on the Diseases and Customs of the
Inhabitants; and some Mistakes concerning the Women corrected._

I shall now give some farther account of these islands; for, although I
have been pretty minute in relating the daily transactions, some things,
which are rather interesting, have been omitted.

Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, we were informed that a ship about the
size of the Resolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour, near the S.E. end
of the island, where she remained about three weeks; and had been gone
about three months before we arrived. We were told that four of the natives
were gone away with her, whose names were Debedebea, Paoodou, Tanadooee,
and Opahiah. At this time, we conjectured this was a French ship, but, on
our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt she was a Spaniard, which
had been sent out from America.[1] The Otaheiteans complained of a disease
communicated to them by the people in this ship, which they said affected
the head, throat, and stomach, and at length killed them. They seemed to
dread it much, and were continually enquiring if we had it. This ship they
distinguished by the name of _Pahai no Pep-pe_ (ship of Peppe), and
called the disease _Apa no Pep-pe_, just as they call the venereal
disease _Apa no Pretane_ (English disease), though they, to a man, say
it was brought to the isle by M. de Bougainville; but I have already
observed that they thought M. de Bougainville came from _Pretane_, as
well as every other ship which has touched at the isle.

Were it not for this assertion of the natives, and none of Captain Wallis's
people being affected with the venereal disease, either while they were at
Otaheite, or after they left it, I should have concluded that long before
these islanders were visited by Europeans, this or some disease which is
near akin to it, had existed amongst them. For I have heard them speak of
people dying of a disorder which we interpreted to be the pox before that
period. But, be this as it will, it is now far less common amongst them,
than it was in the year 1769, when I first visited these isles. They say
they can cure it, and so it fully appears, for, notwithstanding most of my
people had made pretty free with the women, very few of them were
afterwards affected with the disorder; and those who were, had it in so
slight a manner, that it is easily removed. But among the natives, whenever
it turns to a pox, they tell us it is incurable. Some of our people pretend
to have seen some of them who had this last disorder in a high degree, but
the surgeon, who made it his business to enquire, could never satisfy
himself in this point. These people are, and were, before Europeans visited
them, very subject to scrophulous diseases, so that a seaman might easily
mistake one disorder for another.[2]

The island of Otaheite, which, in the years 1767 and 1768, as it were,
swarmed with hogs and fowls, was now so ill supplied with these animals,
that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. The few
they had at this time, among them, seemed to be at the disposal of the
kings. For while we lay at Oaitipiha Bay, in the kingdom of Tiarrabou, or
lesser peninsula, every hog or fowl we saw we were told belonged to
Waheatoua; and all we saw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater
peninsula, belonged to Otoo. During the seventeen days we were at this
island, we got but twenty-four hogs, the half of which came from the two
kings themselves; and, I believe, the other half were sold us by their
permission or order. We were, however, abundantly supplied with all the
fruits the island produces, except bread-fruit, which was not in season
either at this or the other isles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were what we
got the most of; the latter, together with a few yams and other roots, were
to us a succedaneum for bread. At Otaheite we got great plenty of apples,
and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them _Aheeva_. This fruit was
common to all the isles; but apples we got only at Otaheite, and found them
of infinite use to the scorbutic people. Of all the seeds that have been
brought to those islands by Europeans, none have succeeded but pumpkins;
and these they do not like, which is not to be wondered at.

The scarcity of hogs at Otaheite may be owing to two causes; first, to the
number which have been consumed, and carried off by the shipping which have
touched here of late years; and, secondly, to the frequent wars between the
two kingdoms. We know of two since the year 1767; at present a peace
subsists between them, though they do not seem to entertain much friendship
for each other. I never could learn the cause of the late war, nor who got
the better in the conflict. In the battle, which put an end to the dispute,
many were killed on both sides. On the part of Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, and
several other chiefs, who were mentioned to me by name. Toutaha lies
interred in the family Marai at Oparree; and his mother, and several other
women who were of his household, are now taken care of by Otoo, the
reigning prince--a man who, at first, did not appear to us to much
advantage. I know but little of Waheatoua of Tiarrabou. This prince, who is
not above twenty years of age, appeared with all the gravity of a man of
fifty. His subjects do not uncover before him, or pay him any outward
obeisance as is done to Otoo; nevertheless, they seem to shew him full as
much respect, and he appeared in rather more state. He was attended by a
few middle-aged, or elderly men, who seemed to be his counsellors. This is
what appeared to me to be the then state of Otaheite. The other islands,
that is, Huaheine, Ulietea, and Otaha, were in a more flourishing state
than they were when I was there before. Since that time, they had enjoyed
the blessing of peace; the people seemed to be as happy as any under
heaven; and well they may, for they possess not only the necessaries, but
many of the luxuries of life in the greatest profusion; and my young man
told me that hogs, fowls, and fruits, are in equal plenty at Bola-bola, a
thing which Tupia would never allow. To clear up this seeming
contradiction, I must observe, that the one was prejudiced against, and the
other in favour of, this isle.

The produce of the islands, the manners and customs of the natives, &c.
having been treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it will
be unnecessary to take notice of these subjects in this, unless where I can
add new matter, or clear up any mistakes which may have been committed.

As I had some reason to believe, that amongst their religious customs,
human sacrifices were sometimes considered as necessary, I went one day to
a _Marai_ in Matavai, in company with Captain Furneaux; having with
us, as I had upon all other occasions, one of my men who spoke their
language tolerably well, and several of the natives, one of whom appeared
to be an intelligent sensible man. In the _Marai_ was a
_Tupapow_, on which lay a corpse and some viands; so that every thing
promised success to my enquiries. I began with asking questions relating to
the several objects before me, if the plantains, &c. were for the
_Eatua_? If they sacrificed to the _Eatua_, hogs, dogs, fowls,
&c.? To all of which he answered in the affirmative. I then asked, If they
sacrificed men to the _Eatua_? He answered _Taata eno_; that is,
bad men they did, first _Tipperahy_, or beating them till they were
dead. I then asked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? His
answer was No, only _Taata eno_. I asked him if any _Earees_
were? He said, they had hogs to give to the _Eatua_, and again
repeated _Taatu eno_. I next asked, If _Towtows_, that is,
servants or slaves, who had no hogs, dogs, or fowls, but yet were good men,
if they were sacrificed to the _Eatua_? His answer was No, only bad
men. I asked him several more questions, and all his answers seemed to tend
to this one point, that men for certain crimes were condemned to be
sacrificed to the gods, provided they had not wherewithal to redeem
themselves. This, I think, implies, that on some occasions, human
sacrifices are considered as necessary, particularly when they take such
men as have, by the laws of their country, forfeited their lives, and have
nothing to redeem them; and such will generally be found among the lower
class of people.

The man of whom I made these enquiries, as well as some others, took some
pains to explain the whole of this custom to us; but we were not masters
enough of their language to understand them. I have since learnt from Omai,
that they offer human sacrifices to the Supreme Being. According to his
account, what men shall be so sacrificed, depends on the caprice of the
high priest, who, when they are assembled on any solemn occasion, retires
alone into the house of God, and stays there some time. When he comes out,
he informs them, that he has seen and conversed with their great God (the
high priest alone having that privilege), and that he has asked for a human
sacrifice, and tells them that he has desired such a person, naming a man
present, whom, most probably, the priest has an antipathy against. He is
immediately killed, and so falls a victim to the priest's resentment, who,
no doubt (if necessary), has address enough to persuade the people that he
was a bad man. If I except their funeral ceremonies, all the knowledge that
has been obtained of their religion, has been from information: And as
their language is but imperfectly understood, even by those who pretend to
the greatest knowledge of it, very little on this head is yet known with

The liquor which they make from the plant called _Ava ava_, is
expressed from the root, and not from the leaves, as mentioned in the
narrative of my former voyage. The manner of preparing this liquor is as
simple as it is disgusting to an European. It is thus: Several people take
some of the root, and chew it till it is soft and pulpy, then they spit it
out into a platter or other vessel, every one into the same; when a
sufficient quantity is chewed, more or less water is put to it, according
as it is to be strong or weak; the juice, thus diluted, is strained through
some fibrous stuff like fine shavings; after which it is fit for drinking,
and this is always done immediately. It has a pepperish taste, drinks flat,
and rather insipid. But, though it is intoxicating I only saw one instance
where it had that effect, as they generally drink it with great moderation,
and but little at a time. Sometimes they chew this root in their mouths,
as Europeans do tobacco, and swallow their spittle; and sometimes I have
seen them eat it wholly.

At Ulietea they cultivate great quantities of this plant. At Otaheite but
very little. I believe there are but few islands in this sea, that do not
produce more or less of it; and the natives apply it to the same use, as
appears by Le Mair's account of Horn Island, in which he speaks of the
natives making a liquor from a plant in the same manner as above mentioned.

Great injustice has been done the women of Otaheite, and the Society isles,
by those who have represented them, without exception, as ready to grant
the last favour to any man who will come up to their price. But this is by
no means the case; the favours of married women, and also the unmarried of
the better sort, are as difficult to be obtained here, as in any other
country whatever. Neither can the charge be understood indiscriminately of
the unmarried of the lower class, for many of these admit of no such
familiarities. That there are prostitutes here, as well as in other
countries, is very true, perhaps more in proportion, and such were those
who came on board the ships to our people, and frequented the post we had
on shore. By seeing these mix indiscriminately with those of a different
turn, even of the first rank, one is at first inclined to think that they
are all disposed the same way, and that the only difference is in the
price. But the truth is, the woman who becomes a prostitute does not seem,
in their opinion, to have committed a crime of so deep a dye as to exclude
her from the esteem and society of the community in general. On the whole,
a stranger who visits England might, with equal justice, draw the
characters of the women there, from those which he might meet with on board
the ships in one of the naval ports, or in the purlieus of Covent-Garden
and Drury-Lane. I must however allow, that they are all completely versed
in the art of coquetry, and that very few of them fix any bounds to their
conversation. It is therefore no wonder that they have obtained the
character of libertines.

To what hath been said of the geography of these isles, in the narrative of
my former voyage, I shall now only add, that we found the latitude of
Oaiti-piha Bay, in Otaheite, to be 17 deg. 43' 26" south, and the longitude 0 deg.
21' 25" 1/2 east from Point Venus; or 149 deg. 13' 24" west from Greenwich. The
difference both of latitude and longitude, between Point Venus and Oaiti-
piha, is greater than I supposed it to be, when I made the circuit of the
island in 1769, by two miles, and 4-3/4 miles respectively. It is therefore
highly probable, that the whole island is of a greater extent than I, at
that time, estimated it to be. The astronomers set up their observatory,
and made their observations on Point Venus, the latitude of which they
found to be 17 deg. 29' 13" south. This differs but two seconds from that which
Mr Green and I found; and its longitude, viz. 149 deg. 34' 49" 1/2 west, for
any thing that is yet known to the contrary, is as exact.

Mr Kendal's watch was found to be gaining on mean time 8" 863 per day,
which is only 0" 142 less than at Queen Charlotte's Sound, consequently its
error in longitude was trifling.

[1] "We heard that about the time mentioned by the natives, Don Juan
de Langara y Huarte, sent out from the port of Callao in Peru, had
visited Otaheite, but what the particulars of that voyage are, has
never transpired."--G.F.

[2] We anticipated such an opinion in a former volume, and cannot
refrain quoting the following observations in support of it.--"The
question, which has been agitated between the French and English
navigators, concerning the first introduction of this evil to
Otaheite, might be decided very favourably for them both, by supposing
the disease to have existed there previous to their arrival. The
argument, that some of Captain Wallis's people received the infection,
does not seem to controvert this supposition, but only proves, that
the women, who prostrated themselves to his men, were free from it;
which was, perhaps, owing to a precaution of the natives, who might be
apprehensive of exposing themselves to the anger of the strangers, by
conferring such a desperate gift upon them. M. de Bougainville, with
the politeness of a well-bred man, doubts whether the disease existed
at Otaheite previous to his arrival or not; the English seaman asserts
his opinion as facts in positive terms. We heard, however, of another
disease of a different nature, whilst we stayed upon the island; and
which they called _o-pay-no-Peppe_, (the sore of Peppe), adding that
it was brought by the ship which they designed by that name, and
which, according to different accounts, had either been two, three, or
four months before us at Otaheite. By the account of the symptoms, it
seemed to be a kind of leprosy. Nothing is more easy than to imagine,
how the strangers (Spaniards) who visited Otaheite in that ship, might
be erroneously charged with introducing that disease. In order to give
rise to a general error of this sort, it is sufficient that it broke
out nearly about the time of their arrival, and that some distant
connections between them and the persons affected could be traced.
This is the more probable, as it is certain, that there are several
sorts of leprous complaints existing among the inhabitants, such as
the elephantiasis, which resembles the yaws; also an eruption over the
whole skin, and, lastly, a monstrous rotting ulcer, of a most
loathsome appearance. However, all these very seldom occur, and
especially the last; for the excellence of their climate, and the
simplicity of their vegetable food, which cannot be too much extolled,
prevent not only these, but almost all dangerous and deadly

[3] The reader will be abundantly supplied with information respecting
the fact of human sacrifices being used at this island, when he comes
to the account of the third voyage performed by Cook.--E.




_Passage from Ulietea to the Friendly Islands, with an Account of the
Discovery of Hervey's Island, and the Incidents that happened at

After leaving Ulietea, as before mentioned, I steered to the west,
inclining to the south, to get clear of the tracts of former navigators,
and to get into the latitude of the islands of Middleburgh and Amsterdam;
for I intended to run as far west as these islands, and to touch there if I
found it convenient, before I hauled up for New Zealand. I generally lay-to
every night, lest we might pass any land in the dark. Part of the 21st and
22d the wind blew from N.W., attended with thunder, lightning, and rain,
having a large swell from S.S.E. and S., which kept up for several days,--
an indication that no land was near us in that direction.

On the 23d, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was seen from the top-mast
head, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by W. to S.W. by S. We
hauled up for it with the wind at S.E., and found it to consist of two or
three small islets, connected together by breakers like most of the low
isles in the sea, lying in a triangular form, and about six leagues in
circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nut
trees. We saw no people, or signs of inhabitants; and had reason to think
there were none. The situation of this isle, which is in the latitude of
19 deg. 18' S., longitude 158 deg. 54' W., is not very different from that assigned
by Mr Dalrymple to La Dezena. But as this is a point not easily determined,
I named it Hervey's Island, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervey of
the navy, one of the lords of the Admiralty, and afterwards Earl of

As the landing on this isle, if practicable, would have caused a delay
which I could ill spare at this time, we resumed our course to the west;
and on the 25th we again began to use our sea-biscuits, the fruit which had
served as a succedaneum being all consumed; but our stock of fresh pork
still continued, each man having as much every day as was needful. In our
route to the west we now and then saw men-of-war and tropic birds, and a
small sea-bird, which is seldom seen but near the shores of the isles; we,
therefore, conjectured that we had passed some land at no great distance.
As we advanced to the west, the variation of the compass gradually
increased, so that on the 29th, being in the latitude of 21 deg. 26' S.,
longitude 170 deg. 40' W., it was 10 deg. 45' E.

At two o'clock p.m. on the 1st of October, we made the island of
Middleburg, bearing W.S.W.; at six o'clock it extended from S.W, by W. to
N.W., distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen in the
direction of N.N.W. The wind being at S.S.E., I hauled to the south, in
order to get round the south end of the island before the morning; but at
eight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it, and not knowing but
they might be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorant
of, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At day-break the next
morning, we bore up for the S.W. side of Middleburg, passing between it and
the little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear channel two miles

After ranging the S.W. side of the greater isle, to about two-thirds of its
length, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing the
least prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore away for
Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our sails before
we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect, seeming to
offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and plied
in under the island. In the mean time, two canoes, each conducted by two or
three men, came boldly alongside; and some of them entered the ship without
hesitation. This mark of confidence gave me a good opinion of these
islanders, and determined me to visit them, if possible.[2] After making a
few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathoms
water, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. The
highest land on the island bore S.E. by E.; the north point N.E. 1/2 E.,
and the west S. by W. 1/2 W., and the island of Amsterdam extending from N.
by W. 1/2 W. to N.W. 1/2 W. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we were
surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought with
them cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c.
Several came on board; among them was one whom, by the authority he seemed
to have over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a
present of a hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with which
he was highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whose
name was Tioony.[3]

Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony,
who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of
the ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure against
the surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed us on
shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, or
any other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their pacific
intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c.
to exchange for nails, that it was some time before we could get room to
land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive; for many who
could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others heads, whole
bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking, or waiting for any
thing in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right and
left, and make room for us to land.[4] He then conducted us up to his
house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the
head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The
situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at
anchor; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of
the richest productions of Nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which
we were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on
the outside. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; and
in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they
did with a very good grace; and having made each of them a present, this
immediately set all the women in the circle a-singing. Their songs were
musical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable.[5] After sitting
here some time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the
adjoining plantations, where the chief had another house, into which we
were introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and a
bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of _Eava_ for us
to drink. Pieces of the root were first offered us to chew; but as we
excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by
others. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl; then
mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it was
properly strained for drinking, they made cups, by folding of green leaves,
which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these
filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the manner of
brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was,
however; soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook.
I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor did two persons
drink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor.

This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area
before it on which we were seated. The whole was planted round with fruit
and other trees, whose spreading branches afforded an agreeable shade, and
whose fragrance diffused a pleasing odour through the air.

Before we had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned on
board to dinner, with the chief in our company. He sat at table but eat
nothing, which, as we had fresh pork roasted, was a little extraordinary.
After dinner we landed again, and were received by the crowd as before; Mr
Forster with his botanical party, and some of the officers and gentlemen,
walked into the country.[6] Captain Furneaux and myself were conducted to
the chief's house, where fruit and some greens, which had been stewed, were
set before us to eat. As we had but just dined, it cannot be supposed we
eat much; but Oedidee, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honour
to the feast. After this we signified our desire of seeing the country.
Tioony very readily assented, and conducted us through several plantations,
which were laid out with great judgment, and inclosed with very neat fences
made of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted with
various fruit-trees, roots, &c. The chief took some pains to let us know
the most of them belonged to himself. Near some of the houses, and in the
lanes that divided the plantations, were running about some hogs and very
large fowls, which were the only domestic animals we saw; and these they
did not seem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day,
offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning, which determined
me to leave this island, and to visit that of Amsterdam.

The evening brought every one on board, highly delighted with the country,
and the very obliging behaviour of the inhabitants, who seemed to vie with
each other in doing what they thought would give us pleasure.[7] The ships
were crowded with people the whole day, trafficking with those on board, in
which the greatest good order was observed; and I was sorry that the season
of the year would not admit of my making a longer stay with them. Early the
nest morning, while the ships were getting under sail, I went on shore with
Captain Furneaux and Mr Forster, to take leave of the chief. He met us at
the landing-place, and would have conducted us to his house, had we not
excused ourselves. We therefore were seated on the grass, where we spent
about half an hour in the midst of a vast crowd of people. After making the
chief a present, consisting of various articles, and an assortment of
garden-seeds, I gave him to understand that we were going away, at which he
seemed not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in
order to accompany us on board; but seeing the Resolution under sail, he
called to a canoe to put alongside, into which he and his friends went, and
returned on shore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to exchange
fish-hooks for nails, and engrossed the trade in a manner wholly to
himself; but, when on shore, I never saw him make the least exchange.

[1] "There appeared to be some low land at the bottom of the hills,
which contained plantations of fine young bananas, whose vivid green
leaves contrasted admirably with the different tints of various
shrubberies, and with the brown colour of the cocoa-palms, which
seemed to be the effect of winter. The light was still so faint, that
we distinguished several fires glimmering in the bushes, but by
degrees we likewise discerned people running along the shore. The
hills which were low, and not so high above the level of the sea as
the Isle of Wight, were agreeably adorned with small clumps of trees
scattered at some distance, and the intermediate ground appeared
covered with herbage, like many parts of England."-G.F.

[2] "We threw a rope into one of these canoes which ran up close to
us, and one of the three people in her came on board, and presented a
root of the intoxicating pepper-tree of the South Sea Islands, touched
our noses with his like the New Zealanders, in sign of friendship, and
then sat down on the deck without speaking a word. The captain
presented him with a nail, upon which he immediately held it over his
own head, and pronounced _fagafetei_, which was probably an expression
of thanksgiving. He was naked to the waist, but from thence to the
knees he had a piece of cloth wrapped about him, which seemed to be
manufactured much like that of Otaheite, but was covered with a brown
colour, and a strong glue, which made it stiff, and fit to resist the
wet. His stature was middle-sized, and his lineaments were mild and
tolerably regular. His colour was much like that of the common
Otaheiteans, that is, of a clear mahogany or chesnut brown; his beard
was cut short or shaven, and his hair was black, in short, frizzled
curls, burnt as it were at the tops. He had three circular spots on
each arm, about the size of a crown-piece, consisting of several
concentric circles of elevated points, which answered to the punctures
of the Otaheiteans, but were blacker; besides these, he had other
black punctures on his body. A small cylinder was fixed through two
holes in the loop of his ear, and his left hand wanted the little
finger. He continued his silence for a considerable while, but some
others, who ventured on board soon after him, were of a more
communicative turn, and after having performed the ceremony of
touching noses, spoke a language which was unintelligible to us at
that time."--G.F.

[3] "They made a great deal of noise about us, every one shewing what
he had to sell, and calling to some one of us, who happened to look
towards them. Their language was not unpleasing, and whatever they
said, was in a singing kind of tone. Many were bold enough to come on
board, without expressing the least hesitation, and one of these
seemed to be a chief, or a man of some quality, and was accordingly
treated with a number of presents, which he severally laid on his
head, when he received them, saying _fagafetei_ every time. Our
English cloth and linen he admired most, and iron wares in the next
degree. His behaviour was very free and unconcerned; for he went down
into the cabin, and wherever we thought fit to conduct him."--G.F.

[4] "The cordial reception which we met with, was such as might have
been expected from a people well acquainted with our good intentions,
and accustomed to the transitory visits of European ships. But these
kind islanders had never seen Europeans among them, and could only
have heard of Tasman, who visited the adjacent island, by imperfect
tradition. Nothing was therefore more conspicuous in their whole
behaviour than an open, generous disposition, free from any mean
distrust. This was confirmed by the appearance of a great number of
women in the crowd, covered from the waist downwards, whose smiles and
looks welcomed us to the shore."--G.F.

[5] "They beat time to the music by snapping the second finger and
thumb, and holding the three remaining fingers upright. Their voices
were very sweet and mellow, and they sung in parts. When they had
gone, they were relieved by others, who sung the same tune, and at
last they joined together in chorus."--G.F.

[6] "The inhabitants seemed to be of a more active and industrious
disposition than those of Otaheite and instead of following us in
great crowds wherever we went, left us entirely by ourselves, unless
we entreated them to accompany us. In that case we could venture to go
with our pockets open, unless we had nails in them, upon which they
set so great a value, that they could not always resist the
temptation. We passed through more than ten adjacent plantations or
gardens, separated by inclosures, communicating with each other by
means of doors. In each of them we commonly met with a house, of which
the inhabitants were absent. Their attention to separate their
property seemed to argue a higher degree of civilization than we had
expected. Their arts, manufactures, and music, were all more
cultivated, complicated, and elegant, than at the Society Isles. But,
in return, the opulence, or rather luxury, of the Otaheiteans seemed
to be much greater. We saw but few hogs and fowls here; and that great
support of life, the bread-tree, appeared to be very scarce. Yams,
therefore, and other roots, together with bananoes, are their
principal article of diet. Their clothing, too, compared to that of
Otaheite, was less plentiful, or at least not converted into such an
article of luxury as at that island. Lastly, their houses, though
neatly constructed, and always placed in a fragrant shrubbery, were
less roomy and convenient."--G.F.

[7] "We were accosted with caresses by old and young, by men and
women. They hugged us very heartily, and frequently kissed our hands,
laying them on their breast, with the most expressive looks of
affection that can be imagined."--G.F.


_The Arrival of the Ships at Amsterdam; a Description of a Place of
Worship; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while we remained
at that Island._

As soon as I was on board, we made sail down to Amsterdam. The people of
this isle were so little afraid of us, that some met us in three canoes
about midway between the two isles. They used their utmost efforts to get
on board, but without effect, as we did not shorten sail for them, and the
rope which we gave them broke. They then attempted to board the Adventure,
and met with the same disappointment. We ran along the S.W. coast of
Amsterdam at half a mile from shore, on which the sea broke in a great
surf. We had an opportunity, by the help of our glasses, to view the face
of the island, every part of which seemed to be laid out in plantations. We
observed the natives running along the shore, displaying small white flags,
which we took for ensigns of peace, and answered them by hoisting a St
George's ensign. Three men belonging to Middleburg, who, by some means or
other, had been left on board the Adventure, now quitted her, and swam to
the shore; not knowing that we intended to stop at this isle, and having no
inclination, as may be supposed, to go away with us.

As soon as we opened the west side of the isle, we were met by several
canoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly alongside,
presented us with some _Eava_ root, and then came on board without
farther ceremony, inviting us, by all the friendly signs they could make,
to go to their island, and pointing to the place where we should anchor; at
least we so understood them. After a few boards, we anchored in Van
Diemen's Road, in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's length
from the breakers, which line the coast. We carried out the coasting-anchor
and cable to seaward, to keep the ship from tailing on the rocks, in case
of a shift of wind or a calm. This last anchor lay in forty-seven fathoms
water; so steep was the bank on which we anchored. By this time we were
crowded with people; some came off in canoes, and others swam; but, like
those of the other isle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c.,
for which the seamen only bartered away their clothes. As it was probable
they would soon feel the effects of this kind of traffic, with a view to
put a stop to it, and to obtain the necessary refreshments, I gave orders
that no sort of curiosities should be purchased by any person whatever.

The good effect of this order was found in the morning. For, when the
natives saw we would purchase nothing but eatables, they brought off
bananoes and cocoa-nuts in abundance, some fowls and pigs; all of which
they exchanged for small nails and pieces of cloth: even old rags of any
sort, was enough for a pig, or a fowl.

Matters being thus established, and proper persons appointed to trade under
the direction of the officers, to prevent disputes, after breakfast I
landed, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr Forster, and several of the
officers; having along with us a chief, or person of some note, whose name
was Attago, who had attached himself to me, from the first moment of his
coming on board, which was before we anchored. I know not how he came to
discover that I was the commander; but, certain it is, he was not long on
deck before he singled me out from all the gentlemen, making me a present
of some cloth, and other things he had about him; and as a greater
testimony of friendship, we now exchanged names; a custom which is
practised at Otaheite, and the Society Isles. We were lucky, or rather we
may thank the natives, for having anchored before a narrow creek in the
rocks which line the shore. To this creek we were conducted by my friend
Attago; and there we landed dry on the beach, and within the breakers, in
the face of a vast crowd of people, who received us in the same friendly
manner that those of Middleburg had done.[1]

As soon as we were landed; all the gentlemen set out into the country,
accompanied by some of the natives.[2] But the most of them remained with
Captain Furneaux and me, who amused ourselves some time distributing
presents amongst them; especially to such as Attago pointed out, which were
not many, but who I afterwards found, were of superior rank to himself. At
this time, however, he seemed to be the principal person, and to be obeyed
as such. After we had spent some time on the beach, as we complained of the
heat, Attago immediately conducted and seated us under the shade of a tree,
ordering the people to form a circle round us. This they did, and never
once attempted to push themselves upon us like the Otaheiteans.

After sitting here some time, and distributing some presents to those about
us, we signified our desire to see the country. The chief immediately took
the hint, and conducted us along a lane that led to an open green, on the
one side of which was a house of worship built on a mount that had been
raised by the hand of man, about sixteen or eighteen feet above the common
level. It had an oblong figure, and was inclosed by a wall or parapet of
stone, about three feet in height. From this wall the mount rose with a
gentle slope, and was covered with a green turf. On the top of it stood the
house, which had the same figure as the mount, about twenty feet in length,
and fourteen or sixteen broad. As soon as we came before the place, every
one seated himself on the green, about fifty or sixty yards from the front
of the house. Presently came three elderly men, who seated themselves
between us and it, and began a speech, which I understood to be a prayer,
it being wholly directed to the house. This lasted about ten minutes; and
then the priests, for such I took them to be, came and sat down along with
us, when we made them presents of such things as were about us. Having then
made signs to them that we wanted to view the premises, my friend Attago
immediately got up, and going with us, without showing the least
backwardness, gave us full liberty to examine every part of it.

In the front were two stone steps leading to the top of the wall; from this
the ascent to the house was easy, round which was a fine gravel walk. The
house was built, in all respects, like to their common dwelling-houses;
that is, with posts and rafters, and covered with palm thatch. The eaves
came down within about three feet of the ground, which space was filled up
with strong matting made of palm leaves, as a wall. The floor of the house
was laid with fine gravel; except, in the middle, where there was an oblong
square of blue pebbles, raised about six inches higher than the floor. At
one corner of the house stood an image rudely carved in wood, and on one
side lay another; each about two feet in length. I, who had no intention to
offend either them or their gods, did not so much as touch them, but asked
Attago, as well as I could, if they were _Eatuas_, or gods. Whether he
understood me or no, I cannot say; but he immediately turned them over and
over, in as rough a manner as he would have done any other log of wood,
which convinced me that they were not there as representatives of the
Divinity. I was curious to know if the dead were interred there, and asked
Attago several questions relative thereto; but I was not sure that he
understood me, at least I did not understand the answers he made well
enough to satisfy my enquiries. For the reader must know, that at our first
coming among these people, we hardly could understand a word they said.
Even my Otaheitean youth, and the man on board the Adventure, were equally
at a loss; but more of this by and by. Before we quitted the house we
thought it necessary to make an offering at the altar. Accordingly we laid
down upon the blue pebbles, some medals, nails, and several other things,
which we had no sooner done than my friend Attago took them up, and put
them in his pocket. The stones with which the walls were made that inclosed
this mount, were some of them nine or ten feet by four, and about six
inches thick. It is difficult to conceive how they can cut such stones out
of the coral rocks.

This mount stood in a kind of grove open only on the side which fronted the
high road, and the green on which the people were seated. At this green or
open place, was a junction of five roads, two or three of which appeared to
be very public ones. The groves were composed of several sorts of trees.
Among others was the _Etoa_ tree, as it is called at Otaheite, of
which are made clubs, &c. and a kind of low palm, which is very common in
the northern parts of New Holland.

After we had done examining this place of worship, which in their language
is called _A-fia-tou-ca_, we desired to return; but, instead of
conducting us to the water-side as we expected, they struck into a road
leading into the country. This road, which was about sixteen feet broad,
and as level as a bowling-green, seemed to be a very public one; there
being many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all inclosed
on each side, with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching
sun by fruit trees, I thought I was transported into the most fertile
plains in Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground; the roads occupied
no more space than was absolutely necessary; the fences did not take up
above four inches each; and even this was not wholly lost, for in many were
planted some useful trees or plants. It was everywhere the same; change of
place altered not the scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, no where
appears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks we
met numbers of people; some travelling down to the ships with their burdens
of fruit; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road, by
turning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing, with
their backs to the fences, till we had passed.

At several of the cross-roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, were
generally _Afiatoucas_, such as already described; with this
difference, the mounts were pallisadoed round, instead of a stone wall. At
length, after walking several miles, we came to one larger than common;
near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief, in our company.
At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly did, and were
treated with fruit, &c.

We were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests began
a speech or prayer, which was first directed to the _Afiatouca_, and
then to me, and alternately. When he addressed me, he paused at every
sentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however, did not understand
one single word he said. At times, the old gentleman seemed to be at a loss
what to say, or perhaps his memory failed him; for, every now and then, he
was prompted by one of the other priests who sat by him. Both during this
prayer and the former one, the people were silent, but not attentive. At
this last place we made but a short stay. Our guides conducted us down to
our boat, and we returned with Attago to our ship to dinner. We had no
sooner got on board, than an old gentleman came alongside, who, I
understood from Attago, was some king or great man. He was, accordingly,
ushered on board; when I presented him with such things as he most valued
(being the only method to make him my friend,) and seated him at table to
dinner. We now saw that he was a man of consequence; for Attago would not
sit down and eat before him, but got to the other end of the table; and, as
the old chief was almost blind, he sat there, and eat with his back towards
him. After the old man had eaten a bit of fish, and drank two glasses of
wine, he returned ashore. As soon as Attago had seen him out of the ship,
he came and took his place at table, finished his dinner, and drank two
glasses of wine. When dinner was over, we all went ashore, where we found
the old chief, who presented me with a hog; and he and some others took a
walk with us into the country.

Before we set out, I happened to go down with Attago to the landing-place,
and there found Mr Wales in a laughable, though distressed situation. The
boats which brought us on shore, not being able to get near the landing-
place for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes and
stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land, he put them
down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched
away by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was
impossible for him to follow the man barefooted over the sharp coral rocks,
which compose the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat
was put back to the ship, his companions had each made his way through the
crowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago soon found out the
thief, recovered his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. Our route
into the country, was by the first-mentioned _Afiatouca_, before which
we again seated ourselves, but had no prayers, although the old priest was

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