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The Lady's Album of Fancy Work for 1850 by Unknown

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rounds more with green, without increasing; fasten on the scarlet; net 1
round on mesh No. 4, 2 on mesh No. 8, 1 on mesh No. 4, and 2 on mesh No.
8; fasten on the green; net 6 loops in every loop on mesh No. 1; net 1
round with amber on mesh No. 8; fasten on the scarlet wool in the fourth
round from edge, that is, in the same loops as that in which the row of
scarlet, netted on mesh No. 4, was netted; into this row net 1 row on
mesh No. 8; net 2 more rows with scarlet on mesh No. 8; then with green
net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; net 1 row with amber on mesh No
8; fasten on the scarlet in the last row of green in the centre of the
mat; into this row net 1 row on mesh No. 8; then net 6 more rows in the
same mesh; net 6 loops in each loop on mesh No. 1; 1 row with amber on
mesh No. 8.

* * * * *

BRAID

49. WATCH-POCKET.

_Materials--Pink silk or satin, a piece of white silk braid, white silk
fringe, and white satin ribbon_.

Draw the pattern on the silk with a white crayon, and hem the braid on;
trim with the fringe, and rows of satin ribbon.

[Illustration: No. 45. KNITTING-BAG.]

[Illustration: No. 46.]

[Illustration: No. 47.]

[Illustration: No. 48 VASE-STAND.]

[Illustration: No. 49 WATCH-POCKET.]

* * * * *

CROCHET.

50. MITTEN.

_Materials--Raworth's crochet-thread Nos_. 120 _and_ 90, _or black crape
silk_.

The receipt for the back of mitten is here given, the underpart and the
thumb being simply French ground-work, finished at the top and bottom
like the back, leaving an opening at the side for the thumb. Make a
chain long enough to go round the wrist in thread No. 90, and work one
plain row. Fasten on thread No. 120, and work one treble and row of
French ground of six stitches to each hole.--

_1st fancy row_. 5 holes of French ground, 6 long close, 10 French
ground.--

_2d row_. 5 French ground, 12 long close, 10 French ground.--

_3d row_. 4 French ground, 6 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long close,
1 French ground, 6 long close, 4 French ground.--

_4th row_. 5 French ground, 6 long close, 2 French ground, 6 long close,
2 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.--

_5th row_. 5 French ground, 15 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long
close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground.--

_6th row_. 7 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 18 long
close, 4 French ground.--

_7th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 2 French ground, 5 long close,
2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French
ground.--

_8th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3
French ground.--

_9th row_. 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close,
4 French ground, 18 long close, 3 French ground.--

_10th row_. 3 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 3
French ground.--

_11th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 2 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3
French ground.--

_12th row_. 5 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5 French ground, 12 long close, 3
French ground.--

_13th row_. 6 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 3
French ground.--

_14th row_. 5 French ground, 5 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 4 French ground.--

_15th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5
French ground.--

_16th row_. 3 French ground, 12 long close, 1 French ground, 18 long
close, 9 French ground.--

_17th row_. 4 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 5 long
close, 2 French ground, 5 long close, 1 French ground, 12 long close, 5
French ground.--

_18th row_. 4 French ground, 12 long close, 3 French ground, 12 long
close, 1 French ground, 5 long close, 4 French ground.--

_19th row_. 12 French ground, 5 long close, 5 French ground.--

_20th, 21st, and 22d rows_. French ground.--

_23d row_. 1 plain, 5 long close, 1 plain into each loop.

_For the Edging_.--1 treble, 1 French ground.--

_1st fancy row_. 1 hole of French and 6 long close alternately all
round.--

_2d row_. Wholes of French ground, 6 long close all round.--

_3d row_. 6 long close, 5 chain, 2 long close, 5 chain all round.--

_4th row_. Same as the 3d.--

_5th row_. 6 long close, 5 chain, 6 chain, 8 chain, 6 chain to be worked
into the same loop, 5 chain; repeat all round. The engraving will
greatly assist in working out this.

_Explanation of Terms_.--French ground: six chain stitches united to the
centre stitch of former row. Long close: long stitches, without any
chain-stitch between.

* * * * *

CROCHET.

51. COLLAR.

_Flowers for the Border_.--The following is the mode of working this
pattern:--Make 28 chain. Turn. Miss 17, 1 plain, 1 chain, 1 long, 2
chain. Continue to work 1 long and 2 chain all round the flower.--

_2d round_. 3 plain under every 2 chain; 4 plain in the stem. Fasten off
for the leaf.

12 chain. Turn. Miss 2; 7 long stitches in 7 following chain, 1 plain; 1
chain to cross the stem; 3 long, 1 plain in the same chain as last long;
3 long, 1 plain, 5 long to turn the point; 1 plain, 3 long, 1 plain
twice; 7 plain in stem. Fasten off. The second flower, worked as the
first, is united to it by working the eighth plain stitch of the last
round of the flowers into a stitch the same distance from the stem of
the first flower. To turn the corners of the collar, work a flower
without a leaf. Continue these flowers the length of the collar.

_Leaves and Flowers for the Centre_:--

_First leaf_. 31 chain. Turn. Insert the needle into the nineteenth
chain; 1 plain, 1 chain to cross the stem; 3 long into three following
chain; 2 long in 1 chain, 4 long, 2 long in 1 chain; 3 long to turn the
points. Then down the other side of the leaf the same. 4 plain in the
stem; 1 chain to cross the stem.--

_Second leaf_. 21 chain, and work as first leaf. When finished, work 4
plain down the stem.--

_Third leaf_. 13 chain. Turn. Miss 1, 1 plain, 7 long, 1 plain.--

_The flower_. 17 chain. Turn. Insert the needle in the tenth chain to
form a loop; work 15 plain stitches in the loop.--

_1st round_. 6 chain, miss 2, 1 plain five times.--

_2d round_. 7 plain stitches in every 6 chain.--

_3d round_. 3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain; repeat. 17 plain in the stem.
Fasten off for the band.

Work a chain the length of the collar.--

_1st row_. Plain.--

_2d row_. 1 plain, 2 long, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 plain; repeat.
_Directions for making up the collar_.--After the leaves, flowers,
band, and border are worked, cut the shape of the collar in pink or blue
paper; gum a piece of holland at the back of the paper, to prevent its
tearing; tack the border on the paper pattern, the right side downwards;
then sew on the sprigs as in the engraving. Sew the edges of the leaves
and flowers nicely, to prevent their turning up; then, with a
sewing-needle and fine cotton, unite the flowers, leaves, and borders,
by passing the needle from one part of a leaf or flower to another four
or five times; then pass the needle under the bars formed six or eight
times, according to the length of the bar; pass the needle to another
part, and continue to connect the work in this manner throughout the
collar.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No. 50. MITTEN.]

[Illustration: No. 51. FLORAL COLLAR.]

[Illustration: No. 52. CENTRE OF A COVER FOR MUSIC BOOK OR PORTFOLIO.]

[Illustration: No. 53. WINTER HEAD-DRESS.]

[Illustration: No. 54. "BABOCHE," OR CANDLE ORNAMENT.]

* * * * *

EMBROIDERY

52. CENTRE OF A COVER FOR MUSIC-BOOK OR PORTFOLIO.

_Materials--Black satin or velvet; three shades of green, two ditto of
crimson, two ditto of blue, and one skein of olive silk; and one piece
of silver twist_.

Work, in embroidery-stitch, the leaves with the greens, the flowers with
the crimson, the stems with the olive, the harp with blue, the cords of
harp with the silver twist, and the shamrocks with green.

* * * * *

CROCHET.

53. WINTER HEAD-DRESS.

_Materials--Half-an-ounce of shaded scarlet Berlin wool, and six skeins
of white wool; Penelope crochet No. 2_.

With white make a chain measuring 18 inches. Work a row in single open
crochet. With scarlet work 2 rows, decreasing 1 stitch at the end of
each row. Work the next row with white, and continue alternately 2 rows
scarlet and 1 white, decreasing every row until 9 rows are completed.

_For the Borders_.--With white work in chains of 7, missing every
alternate stitch at the back, and taking every stitch at the sides; and
for the space of 24 stitches in the centre of the cap miss 2 stitches.
Work a second row of chains of 7 at the sides. Work an additional border
in the same manner, taking the stitches above the third row of white.
Pass casings of scarlet ribbon through each of the rows of white wool,
place loops of the same between the borders, join the cap behind, and
finish with a rosette of ribbon.

* * * * *

54. "BABOCHE," OR ORNAMENT FOR CANDLES.

The materials required are, a quarter of a yard of bright rose-coloured
glazed muslin, a quarter of a yard of white glazed jaconet muslin, two
pieces of card of three inches and a half long and one inch broad; join
in, and cut out of rose and white jaconet muslin twenty pieces of each
colour; fold them, and sew on the card 5 rose, then 5 white, all round,
and your baboche will be completed.--(_See_ drawing.) We assure our fair
readers they are exceedingly pretty, and certainly not found
_difficult_.

* * * * *

SCAGLIOLA WORK

55. CHESS-BOARD.

SEE directions in page 22.

* * * * *

CROCHET.

56. D'OYLEY.

_Materials--Shaded scarlet and green double Berlin wool; Raworth's
crochet-thread No_. 16; _Penelope crochet No_. 1.

With green make a chain of 5 stitches, unite the ends; then make 7
chain, 1 single into each loop of the preceding chain.--

_1st round_. 5 chain, 1 single in the centre loop of the 7 chain; repeat
four times.--

_2d, 3d, and 4th rounds_. 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat, uniting the
ends of each round, and taking the loops at the back of the chain.--

_5th round (crochet-thread_.) 4 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2
chain, 1 treble twice, 2 chain, miss 1; repeat.--

_6th round (green wool)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last row, 1 double,
5 chain, 1 single through the loop in the last round twice, 5 chain, 1
single; repeat.--

_7th round (crochet-thread)_. 4 treble over the 4 in the last round, 1
double, 5 chain, 1 single over the 1 in the last round.--

_8th round (scarlet)_. 4 treble, 1 double, 3 chain, 1 double through the
loop, 5 chain, 1 double twice, 3 chain, 1 double; repeat.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No. 55. CHESS-BOARD.]

[Illustration: No. 56. D'OYLEY.]

[Illustration: No. 57. GAUNTLET CUFF.]

* * * * *

CROCHET.

57. GAUNTLET CUFF.

_Materials--White and scarlet Berlin wool, three shades, and shaded
green wool; Penelope crochet No_. 2.

With white make a chain of 40 loops, and work from the directions given
for collar, page 38. Finish, to correspond with, collar, placing a
rosette in the centre of the cuff, and fastening with a hook and eye.

* * * * *

EMBROIDERY

58. LIQUEUR-STAND MAT.

_Materials--White silk or cashmere; three shades of crimson, three ditto
of green, two ditto of brown chenille; five shades of scarlet Berlin
wool, four skeins of each shade; and four skeins of white Berlin wool_.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch; the
roses with the shades of crimson; the leaves with green, shading
according to taste; and the stems with brown. In working the designs for
the corners, it is an improvement to introduce brown leaves occasionally.
Work a shaded fringe round the edge with the wools on a mesh an inch
and a half in width. Work the first round with white; the second, the
lightest crimson; after which, work one round with each shade to the
darkest; cut and comb the fringe, and line the mat with green silk.

* * * * *

CROCHET APPLIQUE

61. BORDER FOR A LACE SCARF OR VEIL.

_Materials--If for a black veil, fine black crochet-silk; if white,
Raworth's crochet-thread No_. 70.

The illustration represents the corner of the border.

_The Rose.--1st row_. 39 c s, 1 l s into eighth stitch, * 3 c s, miss 2,
1 l s into third; repeat from * to end of chain, except the last three
stitches, then 6 c s, 1 s c into last stitch.--

_2d row_. 5 c s, 1 l s over 1 s in last row (this row is worked on the
other side of chain, where the two stitches were missed), * 2 c s, 1 l s
over next 1 s; repeat from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s round the
2 c s of last row, * 1 c s, 1 l s round the 2 c s of next space; repeat
from * to end of row. Turn. 4 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second
space, * 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s into second space; repeat from *
to end of row. After the last l s one space is left. 1 c s, 1 l s into
this. Turn. 4 c s, 1 l s into second space, 1 c s, miss one space, 1 l s
into second, 1 c s, 1 l s into next, 4 c s, 1 s c into last space.
Fasten off. Commence again on last s c stitch of first row. 3 l s, d l s
into first space towards the top, 4 d l s into next space, 3 l s, 1 d c
into third space, 3 l s, 2 d l s into next space, 3 t l s into top
space, 2 d l s, 3 l s into next, 1 d c, 3 l s into next, 4 d l s into
next, 4 d l s, 3 l s into next space. Continue all round thus: 6 d l s
into next or corner space, 4 d l s into next and every other space
except the end, into which 5 d l s, 1 l s. Turn. 4 c s, miss 2, s c into
third, 4 c s, miss 2, d c into third, * 4 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third.
Continue from * thirteen times, then 4 c s, d c into third stitch, 4 c
s, miss 2, s c into third. Turn. 4 d c round every 4 c s all along the
last row, 9 c s, s c into middle stitch of the first of three scallops
at the top of the rose, 9 c s, s c into second stitch of top scallop, 9
c s, s c into middle of top scallop, 9 c s, s c into last stitch but one
of same scallop, 9 c s, s c into middle of next scallop, 9 c s, s c into
first of 4 d c stitches round the space of last row * 9 c s, miss 6, s c
into seventh; repeat from * until these chains meet where they were
begun; then * 1 l c s, s c into s c stitch on the other side of first
chain; repeat from * all round.

_Wreath of Leaves and Buds_.--For the wreath under the corner rose: 94 c
s, s c down twelve of these, * 7 c s, s c into third s c stitch; repeat
from * three times more, which brings it to top stitch; 8 c s, s c into
same stitch, * 7 c s, s c into third stitch down the other side; repeat
from * three times more; pass the thread under the stalk, 3 d c into
first loop of 7 c s, * 7 c, s c round next loop of 7 c s; repeat from *
three times, which brings it to top loop; 7 c s, s c into same loop;
repeat the 7 c into every loop down the other side; s c, 5 c s for a
stalk; 10 c s, 1 d l s into fifth stitch, 5 more d l s into same stitch.
Turn. D c along the top of these d l s. Turn. D c along last d c
stitches; 9 c s, s c into d c stitch on the other side. Fasten off; this
forms the bud. Commence again at the last s c of the stalk of leaf, s c
along thirteen stitches; repeat the leaf and bud five times more; s c
the remaining c s for a stalk. The wreaths under the roses at the sides
are only to have five leaves and five buds on each, and require a chain
of eighty-two stalks for the stem. Tack the flowers on paper wrong side
up, as seen in the illustration. Tack the buds to the roses, and unite
the leaves by a slight band in button-hole stitch. Tack the edges of the
roses together, and the ends of the stems to the adjoining wreath; then
remove the paper, and lay the bordering upon the edge of the scarf or
veil, which should be of Brussels net. Sew the edge of the upper
scallops of the rose to the net very firmly, and cut away the
superfluous net.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No. 58. LIQUEUR-STAND MAT.]

[Illustration: No. 59]

[Illustration: No. 60]

[Illustration: No. 61. BORDER FOR A LACE SCARF OR VEIL]

[Illustration: No. 62. PURSE.]

* * * * *

CROCHET.

62. CARD-PURSE.

_Materials--One skein of cerise, one of blue fine crochet-silk, one
skein of gold twist; one hank of gold beads No. 6, one ditto of silver;
a gilt top and tassel will also be required_.

Thread the gold beads on the cerise silk, and the silver on the blue,
and with the cerise make a chain of 7 stitches, unite; make 2 stitches
in each stitch in the 1st round, in every alternate in the 2d, and in
every third in the 3d, passing down a bead in every stitch; work thus,
increasing in each stitch until there are 42 bead-stitches in the round;
now decrease each division of the star, working 6 bead-stitches, 1
plain, increasing in the plain stitch; then decrease 1 bead-stitch in
every round till but one remain, increasing always in the same stitch in
each round; work 2 plain rounds, still increasing as before; work 1
round with gold twist, without increasing; 1 round with cerise, passing
down a bead at every stitch; and 1 round again with twist. Commence with
blue, and work 1 plain round. There ought now to be 64 stitches in the
round; if a greater number should be found, decrease by missing a stitch
as may be found necessary. This must be done in the first round worked
with blue.--_2d round (with blue)_. 10 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 2
bead-stitches; repeat all round.--

_2d round_. 8 plain, 8 beads; repeat.--

_3d round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_4th round_. 4 plain, 4 beads, 5 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_5th round_. 2 plain, 6 beads, _4_ plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead;
repeat.--

_6th round_. 1 plain, 4 beads, 2 plain, 3 beads, 1 plain, 1 bead, 2
plain, 2 beads; repeat.--

_7th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 1 bead;
repeat.--

_8th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 3 plain, 2 beads.--

_9th round_. 2 plain, 2 beads, 3 plain, 5 beads, 2 plain, 2 beads;
repeat.--

_10th round_. 1 plain, 2 beads, 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 3 beads, 2
plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_11th round_. 2 plain, 1 bead, 1 plain, 2 beads, 4 plain, 6 beads;
repeat.--

_12th round_. 5 plain, 3 beads, 4 plain, 4 beads; repeat.--

_13th round_. 12 plain, 4 beads; repeat,--_14th round_. 8 plain, 8
beads; repeat.--

_15th round_. 10 plain, 2 beads, 1 plain, 3 beads; repeat.--

_17th round_. Plain, decreasing by missing every 16th stitch. Work 1
round with gold, then divide the purse, and work one-half with cerise;
work 8 rows, passing down a bead at every stitch, and decreasing a
stitch at the beginning and end of each row; work the other half to
correspond; sew on to the top, and finish with tassel in the centre of
star.

* * * * *

CROCHET.

63. ROUND COLLAR.

_Materials--White, and three shades of scarlet and shaded green Berlin
wool;_ _Penelope crochet No. 2_.

With white make a chain of 84 stitches; work a row of single open
crochet.--

_2d row (lightest scarlet)_. 3 chain, 3 long, miss 2; repeat to the
end.--

_3d row (second shade of scarlet)_. 1 long worked in the centre long
stitch of previous row, 5 chain; repeat.--

_4th row (dark scarlet)_. 3 long worked above the long, and the last and
first stitches of the chain, 4 chain; repeat.--

_5th row (green)_. Commence in the edge stitch of third row. 5 chain,
miss 3 *, 5 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat from *, and work to the end,
which must be finished with 5 chain, 1 plain, worked in the third row.--

_6th row (white)_. Commence at the edge-stitch of the third row. 6
chain, * 5 plain worked above the 5 long of previous row, 4 chain:
repeat from * to the end, and finish with 6 chain. Fasten the white wool
to the second stitch of fourth row, 6 chain, 3 plain worked above the 3
long of fourth row; repeat. Pass through every second stitch of white
row, and place a rosette of ribbon at the end.

* * * * *

EMBROIDERY

64. PRINCE OF WALES'S PLUME.

_Materials--Crimson satin and gold twist_.

Draw the design, and work in embroidery-stitch. This elegant design is
suitable for the centre of a book-cover, a watch-pocket, and many other
purposes, which the taste of the worker may suggest.

* * * * *

NETTING

65. PATTERN FOR WINDOW-CURTAINS.

_Materials--Raworths crochet-thread No. 30, or fine knitting-cotton_.

Use cotton No. 10 for embroidering the pattern. Meshes No. 4, No. 6, and
a flat mesh three-fourths of an inch in width, will be required for the
edge.

Commence with a foundation of 300 loops on mesh No. 4, and net till the
length required is worked; then net the following edge at the sides and
end; net two loops in every loop on the large mesh, making four loops in
the corner loops.--

_2d row_. Take two loops together, netting two in these.--

_3d row_. Take every loop on mesh No. 6.--

_4th row_. Like 3d row.--

_5th row_. Net two loops in every loop on the large mesh.--

_6th and 7th rows_. Like 3d and 4th. Work the pattern in darning-stitch,
as in illustration.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No. 63. ROUND COLLAR.]

[Illustration: No. 64. PRINCE OF WALES'S PLUME.]

[Illustration: No. 65. PATTERN FOR WINDOW-CURTAINS.]

[Illustration: No. 66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.]

* * * * *

EMBROIDERY

66. GENTLEMAN'S BRACES.

_Materials--Black velvet or white satin ribbon of a very good quality,
and five shades of crimson and three of green embroidery silk_.

Line the ribbon with linen; draw the design, and work in
embroidery-stitch, shading, as taste may direct,--the leaves with the
greens, and the roses with crimson, using three shades for each rose,
and working first only with the lightest shades, then with the darkest
only.

* * * * *

EMBROIDERY

67. TOILET-CUSHION.

_Materials--White or black satin; three shades of crimson, three shades
of yellow, three shades of green, and two shades of olive green
embroidery silk; one yard of crimson and one yard of green chenille will
also be required_.

Draw the pattern on the material, and work in embroidery-stitch one rose
with the shades of crimson, and the second with the shades of yellow;
the leaves with the shades of green, and the stems with olive; work a
few stitches with the shades of the roses in the centre of the
rose-buds, and work the corner designs with green and olive. In the
arrangement of the colours, the taste and judgment of the worker must be
exercised, as much depends upon the harmoniously blending of the various
shades.

* * * * *

NETTING

68. THE HELEN CAP.

_Materials--Scarlet floss silk, or five shades of scarlet Berlin wool;
meshes Nos. 3 and 6; cornucopia gauge, and a flat mesh, an inch in
width_.

The cap is worked in honeycomb netting, and the borders and rosette in
plain netting. With the darkest shade make a foundation of 56 stitches
on mesh No. 3, net 2 rows with each shade, increasing a stitch at the
end of each row; leave one-half of the cap plain, and net a border in
the following manner on the remaining loops and at the ends:--With the
darkest shade net 4 loops in every loop on the flat mesh, increasing by
making 6 loops in each of the three corner stitches; then on mesh No. 3,
net 1 loop in each, and finish by netting a row with the next shade on
the smallest mesh: this must be repeated at each side of the cap. For
the second border, net 100 loops on the flat mesh on a foundation of
wool, and finish to correspond with the first border. Two pieces netted
in this manner are required, and they are arranged in festoons at the
sides of the cap. Pass a cord the size required through the
foundation-stitches, join it, and sew on a rosette made in the following
manner:--With the darkest shade net 100 loops on mesh No. 3; then with
the next shade net 2 rows at each side and at the ends; make this into a
rosette with long ends, as in illustration.

This elegant and becoming head-dress derives its name from the beautiful
sister-in-law of the Emperor of Russia, the Grand Duchess Helen, who
introduced this style of coiffure at St. Petersburg.

* * * * *

INDIAN ORNAMENTAL WORK

69. SCREEN.

Beautiful cabinets, work-boxes, work-tables, fire-screens, &c., may be
painted in imitation of ebony inlaid with ivory by the following
means:--Let your screen be made of an elegant form, but merely of common
white wood or deal, prepared as below.

_Composition for the Surface of Wood_.--Steep one ounce of glue in a
pint of cold water all night; throw off the water in the morning. Take
six ounces of finest white lead in powder, mix it by degrees in a
mortar, with about half a pint of cold water, till it is perfectly
smooth, then place it, along with the glue, in a clean pan. Add half a
pint more water; set it on the fire, stirring constantly till it boils.
Let it boil three minutes; take it off, and pour it into a stone jar,
and continue to stir it occasionally till cold. When cold, but before it
congeals, take a clean paint-brush, and paint your screen with the
composition. When it is quite dry, rub it over with sand-paper, to make
it quite smooth; then give it another coat of the white composition,
repeating the rubbing with sand-paper as before. Repeat this same
process five or six times, until you obtain a smooth, equal, white
surface. When that is accomplished, dissolve the fourth of an ounce of
isinglass in a quarter of a pint of water; when cold, but liquid, give
the screen a coat of it with a clean brush, and do not use the
sand-paper after it.

_To Ornament the Screen_.--Lay a sheet of black tracing-paper on the
screen, with the black side downwards; then place a pattern above it,
with the right side uppermost; place a weight here and there, to prevent
it slipping; then trace over the outline with a rather blunt stiletto.
On removing the paper, you will find the outline of the pattern
transferred to the surface of the screen. Trace over the outline,
and shade, in lines, with a fine camel's-hair pencil dipped in Newman's
lamp-black; fill in with the same.

_Varnish_.--Place four ounces of rectified spirit of wine in a
wide-mouthed bottle; add one ounce of gum sandarac, a quarter of an
ounce of gum mastic, and a drachm of camphor, all in powder. Put a
stopper in the bottle, set it near a fire, and shake it occasionally.
When all the gums are quite dissolved, add one ounce of oil of
turpentine; then strain through muslin into another clean, dry
wide-mouthed bottle. Let it stand a day or two before using.

_Mode of Varnishing_.--Take a large clean new varnish-brush, dip it into
the bottle, and then cover over all your screen with it. When perfectly
dry, give it another coat, and so on till it has had six coats; let it
remain untouched for two days; rub it smooth with sand-paper; then give
it two more coats of varnish, and repeat the rubbing, being careful to
wait between each coat till the last is dry, and not to rub with
sand-paper sooner than two days after varnishing, and never give more
than two coats of varnish in a day--one in the morning, another at
night. When you think it looks clear and sufficiently thick, give it
another coat without using the sand-paper after it; let it stand four
days; then rub it all over with pounded rottenstone, and wipe it off
with a wet cloth; after which take a little Florence oil and
hair-powder, and polish with your hand.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No 67. TOILET CUSHION.]

[Illustration: No. 68. THE HELEN CAP.]

[Illustration: No. 69. SCREEN]

[Illustration: No. 70. HEARTSEASE]

* * * * *

KNITTING

70. HEARTSEASE.

_Materials--Split Berlin wool, and knitting-needles No. 20; cornucopia
gauge_.

_Violet Petals_.--Cast on three stitches with a bright shade of violet;
knit and pearl in alternate rows, making a stitch at the beginning of
every row, until you have fourteen or sixteen stitches; then knit and
pearl six rows alternately, without increase, and continue in knitted
and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at the beginning of each row,
till six or eight stitches alone remain; these cast off in the plain
row, taking the two last as one before you turn the last stitch over.
Two petals like these are required.

_Large Yellow Petal_.--Take a bright, though rather deep, shade of
yellow wool, split; cast on three stitches, knit and pearl in alternate
rows, increasing one stitch before and one after the middle stitch in
the plain row, till you have fifteen or seventeen stitches; take a
higher shade of yellow, and work six more alternate plain and pearled
rows, still increasing in the middle, but decreasing one stitch at the
beginning of every row; change your wool for a deep violet, and continue
to knit in alternate plain and pearled rows, decreasing one stitch at
the beginning of each row, till seven stitches only remain; these cast
off, taking the two last as one.

_Two smaller Petals_.--Exactly like the large one, but increased only to
thirteen stitches. Sew a fine wire round each petal with split wool, tie
the five petals together with a bit of green.

_Buds_.--Take eight or ten lengths of split wool, yellow and violet,
place across a piece of wire, fold the wire, twist the ends, turn down
the ends of wool, tie them round the wire, leaving out the length
required for the bud (about a quarter of an inch); cover the stem with
green wool, split; also the stem of the heartsease.

_Leaves_.--Begin with a shade of green wool, split as for one of the
yellow petals, but you have thirteen stitches; cast off three at the
beginning of the two following rows, go on increasing again to thirteen;
cast off three at each end, and make thus as many scallops as will look
well--in general three or four on each side make a very good-sized leaf;
after the last scallops, decrease one stitch at the beginning of every
row, till the leaf comes to a point.

* * * * *

CROCHET.

71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR-STAND.

_Materials--Raworth's thread No. 30, and three shades of Manlove's pink
crochet thread of corresponding size_.

With the lightest shade make a chain of 9 stitches; join to form a
round.

_1st round_. Double crochet, increasing in every stitch.--

_2d round_. 5 chain. 1 plain, miss 2; repeat.--

_3d round_. 5 chain, 1 plain, taking the centre stitch of chain of
previous round; repeat.--

_4th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every fifth stitch.--

_5th round_. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_6th round_. Double crochet.--

_7th round_. 1 chain, 1 plain above the centre stitch of chain in 5th
round; repeat.--

_8th round (second shade of pink)_. 9 chain, 1 plain, worked in the
plain of last round; repeat.--

_9th round_. Double crochet.--

_10th round_. 5 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_11th round_. 4 chain, 1 plain, worked in the centre stitch of chain of
last round; repeat.--

_12th round_. Double crochet, increasing in every ninth stitch. Now
divide the work into three parts, commence with the darkest shade, and
work as follows:--Fasten on the thread three stitches from the centre of
one of these divisions; make a chain of 9 stitches, 1 plain, miss 6.--

_2d row_. Commence one stitch from the first stitch in last row, 1
chain, 1 long in every stitch; repeat, finishing by working a stitch in
advance.--

_3d row_. Commence as in last row, 2 chain, 1 long, miss 1, and
finish as before.--

_4th row_. Commence and finish as before, 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1;
repeat.--

_5th row_. 3 chain, 1 long, miss 2; repeat, beginning and finishing as
before.--

_6th row_. 1 long, 3 chain, miss 1; repeat, commencing and finishing as
before. Now work the other two divisions in the same manner; after which
work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round; then work a round in double
crochet. This completes the centre.

_For the Edge_.--With white work 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1, all round.--

_2d round_. 7 chain, 1 plain, miss 3; repeat.--

_3d round_. 7 chain, 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain;
repeat.--

_4th round_. 1 plain worked in the centre stitch of chain, 5 long worked
in the following stitches: 1 plain, 7 chain, 1 plain in the centre
stitch of chain, 7 chain; repeat.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No. 71. SERVIETTE FOR LIQUEUR STAND]

[Illustration: No. 72. RIBBON-WORK.]

[Illustration: No. 73. LADY'S SILK MITTENS.]

[Illustration: No. 74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR.]

* * * * *

RIBBON WORK

72. A NEW AND ELEGANT WORK FOR SOFA PILLOWS, ANTI-MACASSARS,
CARD-BASKETS, &c.

We will describe how to make an anti-macassar:--

_Take Penelope canvass, three quarters of a yard long, half a yard wide;
a piece of crimson china ribbon; one piece of gold-colour, one of shaded
lilac, and a rug-needle_.

Prepare the canvass by cutting away every 2 alternate threads, and draw
them out the whole length of the canvass; next cut away and draw them
out with tweezers, every 2 alternate threads, the whole of the width of
the canvass. Next thread the rug-needle with crimson ribbon, and sew
over the first 2 threads of canvass the lengthway of the canvass; when
at the end, pass the needle to the next 2 threads and sew them over,
taking care to keep the ribbon flat as possible; when at the top, return
and cover the next two threads with the same coloured ribbon. This will
make 3 stripes. Proceed the same with the gold-colour, 3 stripes; then
the lilac, 3 stripes; then recommence with the crimson, and continue the
same until you have the whole length finished. Next commence to sew over
the same from side to side, which will form a chequered pattern, and has
a rich effect. Finish round with a ruche of satin ribbon or fringe,
crimson colour. If desired, can be worked with slight silk.

* * * * *

CROCHET.

73. LADY'S SILK MITTEN.

_Materials_--10 _pieces of fine black crochet silk_; 2 _bundles of No_.
6 _steel beads; Penelope crochet No_. 3.

Make a chain of 84 stitches; work 1 row in plain-stitch crochet.--

_2d row_. 2 edge-stitches, 1 bead-stitch, 1 plain to the end of row.--

_3d row_. Plain.--

_4th row_. Same as 2d row.--

_5th, 6th, and 7th rows_. Plain.--

_8th row_. 4 plain, 4 bead to the end of row.--

_9th, 10th, and 11th rows_. As 8th row.--

_13th, 14th, and 15th rows_. Plain.--

_16th row_. 1 plain-stitch, 1 bead-stitch to the end of row.--

_17th row_. Plain.

This completes the band for the arm, which must be worked on one side,
detaching the silk at the end of each row. Work 4 rows in chain-stitch
open crochet, making 7 loops in each chain, and missing 4 stitches in
working the first row, join and work in rounds; work _2_ rounds, then
divide the mit in half, and leave a space for the thumb; the silk must
be detached at the end of the row. Work to the centre of the back of
hand, make 3 chain-stitches, pass down a bead in making the next 3
chain-stitches, crochet to the centre stitch of chain of last row; then
work 3 stitches, passing down a bead at each stitch, then _3_
chain-stitches; work to the end of row. Work 6 rows, increasing the
number of bead-stitches by commencing at the preceding chain-stitch;
then work 6 rows, decreasing as seen in illustration; the last 3 of
these must be worked in rounds instead of rows; work _3_ rounds in
chain-stitches of 7 as before, then a round of chain-loops in each
chain. Work one-half plain for the inner part of the hand, then 1 bead,
1 plain. Next round plain. Work 3 rows thus on the back of the hand; 3
bead-stitches, 3 plain stitches. Next round plain; then 1 bead-stitch, 1
plain as before, and finish with a plain round. Now work the thumb as
follows:--Work a chain of 7, missing every third stitch; repeat three
times, then work 5 rounds, decreasing in each round by passing the loop
through the centre stitches of two of the chains; work 3 rounds without
decreasing, and finish with 3 rounds of close double crochet, making
every alternate stitch of the centre round a bead-stitch. Work a loop on
the band, and fasten with a button.

* * * * *

NETTING

74. COUVRETTE FOR DEVOTIONAL CHAIR.

_Materials--Raworth's thread No_. 30, _knitting-cotton No_. 10, _shaded
amber Berlin wool, mesh No_. 6.

Commence with a foundation of 100 loops, and net till the proper length
is completed. Work the pattern in darning-stitch with cotton. Net a
fringe with shaded wool, making two loops in every loop, using a flat
mesh two inches broad.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No. 75 SACHET]

[Illustration: No. 76. PEN-WIPER.]

[Illustration: No. 77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL.]

* * * * *

EMBROIDERY

75. SACHET.

_Materials--A quarter of a yard of pale-blue satin, one yard and
one-eighth of blue silk fringe, three shades of green, and two shades of
olive-green embroidery silk, and a small bundle of pearl beads_.

Draw the design upon the satin, and work in embroidery-stitch, the
leaves with the shades of green, the stems with the shades of olive, and
the grapes with the beads. Use such perfume as may be preferred, and
trim round the edge with the fringe.

* * * * *

_EMBROIDERY IN BRAID_.

76. PEN-WIPER.

_Materials--Blue cachmere and gold-coloured braid_.

Draw the pattern, and sew on the braid; edge with button-hole stitch.

* * * * *

_BERLIN WORK_.

77. PATTERN FOR FOOTSTOOL OR CUSHION.

_Materials--Canvass No. 40; scarlet, black, and white Berlin wool;
fourth shade of blue, fourth ditto of green, fourth ditto of peach
Berlin wool; amber floss silk, six skeins of each of the wools, and a
similar quantity of silk will be required; also a piece of fine
piping-cord, and emerald-green velvet ribbon_.

Cut the canvass into strips 3 inches in width, and the length required;
sew 14 lengths of cord upon the canvass, leaving 2 threads between each
cord; the cord will cover a space of 2 threads. Leave a margin 18
threads from this, and with black work 6 stitches over the 7th and 8th
cords opposite each other; with blue work 6 stitches on the same cords
on the right side, and with green 6 on the left; with peach work 6
stitches on the 9th and 10th cords, above the stitches of black; and
with scarlet 6 stitches on the 6th and 7th cords, underneath the black.
There will now be 60 stitches worked. With white work 6 stitches on a
line with each of the preceding stitches, and on the 2 cords above the
stitches of peach and below the scarlet; with amber silk work 6 stitches
in the same manner. This completes the first diamond. The pattern is
repeated to the end of row. The spaces between the diamonds are worked
as follows: With black work 6 stitches on a line with each stitch of
amber; with peach work the stitches between the black on the 3d and 4th
cords; on the right hand work 6 stitches with blue on the 1st and 2d
cords, and on the left with green; work the centre stitches with silk.
The opposite space is worked in a similar manner, substituting scarlet
for peach. For a cushion it will be necessary to work 4 strips of this
pattern; and, in making it up, a length of velvet ribbon of a similar
width is placed between each division of work. Finish with green cord
and tassels.

* * * * *

[Illustration: No 78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE.]

[Illustration: Nos. 79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER.]

* * * * *

CROCHET.

78. A MAT FOR A FLOWER-VASE.

_Material--Raworth's crochet thread No_. 40.

_Centre Flower_.--12 c s, unite, work into this ring 5 c s, 1 l s, * 2 c
s, 1 l s; repeat from * eleven times, finish with 2 c s, s c into third
stitch of first, 5 c s.--

_2d round_. D c into first space, * 5 c s, d c into next space; repeat
from * into every space, finish with 5 c s, s c into first d c of the
round.--

_3d round_. 5 d c round every loop of 5 c s in last round.

_The eight Leaves round this Flower_.--Commence on one of the stitches
at the edge of this flower, 25 c s, s c back (this is for the stripe in
the centre of leaf), * 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth; repeat from *
five times, which brings it to top stitch of leaf, 6 c s, d c into same
stitch, 5 c s, miss 3, d c into fourth six times down the other side of
the stripe, draw out the loop on the needle a little, pass the thread
under the leaf, 1 d c round the first loop, 5 c s, d c round the next
loop, * 6 c s, d c round the next; repeat from * four times, which
brings it to top loop, 7 c s into same top loop, 6 c s into five more
loops down the other side, 5 c s, d c into last loop, pass the thread
under the leaf, d c three times round the loop next to stripe, five
times round next loop, six times round every loop up to the top, 2 d c,
5 l s, 2 d c round the top loop, 6 d c round every chain of six down the
other side, 5 d c round chain of 5, 3 d c round the last loop at bottom
of leaf next to the stripe; fasten off. Make another leaf in the same
manner at the opposite side of the centre flower, and one at an equal
distance between these two; another on the other side to correspond,
which will make four leaves, then work four more leaves between these 4,
and the eight leaves will be finished.

_For the rounds of open work proceed thus:_ Commence on the point of one
of the leaves, work 29 c s, d c into point of next leaf; repeat this all
round, not making the c s too tight.--

_2d round_. D c into every stitch of this round.--

_3d round_. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat from
*.--

_4th round_. D c into every stitch of last round.--

_5th round_. 1 l s, * 3 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third stitch; repeat
from *.--

_6th round_. D c into every stitch of last round.--

_7th round_. 1 l s, 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat from * all
round.--

_8th round_. D c into every stitch of last round. Work on the inside of
the first round of 29 c s a ring, thus: commence on centre, c s
_between_ the leaves, 16 c s, unite on foundation-stitch, d c
twenty-four times round this ring; repeat these rings between every two
leaves, making eight in all.

_The Leaves on the outside of the open Rounds_.--

Commence on stitch
opposite to the point of one of the large leaves. 18 c s, 1 l s into
sixth stitch, * 2 c s, miss 2, 1 l s into third; repeat three times more
from *. 1 s c into foundation-stitch, then 4 d c round first loop; 1 d
c, 2 l s, 1 d c round next three loops, 1 d c, 4 l s, 1 d c round top
loop; 1 d c, 2 l s, 1 d c round three loops on the other side of leaf; 4
d c round last loop. Make another leaf in the same manner, beginning at
the same foundation-stitch. Fasten off. Then two more leaves exactly the
same, opposite the points of all the large centre leaves. Then two more
leaves opposite each of the d c rings inside the open rounds (which will
be at an equal distance on each side from the others). There will now be
thirty-two small leaves, two and two, the upper point of each leaf to be
turned _outwards_, and to be tacked with needle and thread to the point
of the next leaf, which it will meet easily. (Care must be taken to
refer to the engraving for the manner in which the mat is to be
finished, as it will greatly assist the explanations.)

For the small roses between the leaves, which are made separately: 9 c
s, unite, 5 c s, 1 long stitch into ring, * 2 c s, 1 l s; repeat from *
seven times. 2 c s, s c into third stitch of first 5 c s.

_2d round_. 1 s c round first space, 3 c s, 3 l s, into same space, * 5
c s, miss 1 space, 4 l s into next space; repeat from * all round.
Finish with 5 c s, s c into third stitch of 3 c s. Fasten off sixteen
roses for the round. Place one of these roses between every pair of the
leaves which proceed from the same foundation, and sew it at the edge to
the third scallop of the leaves; then commence between the points of the
leaves which were sewn together, * 24 c s, d c into centre of edge of
small rose, 24 c s, d c between the points of the leaves; repeat from *
all round, then 26 d c stitches _round_ every 24 chain.

_Sprigs between the 24 C S_.--18 c s, unite on twelfth. D c round this
loop twenty-two times. S c up remaining c s for stalk. Fasten off,
leaving an end to sew the sprig on the mat. Turn wrong side up. Commence
on fifth stitch from stalk on the _right-hand side_ of the flower, * 10
c s, unite in same stitch. Turn again. Into this circle work 18 d c
stitches *. Turn wrong side up. S c up to top of ring formed by 18 c s;
repeat from * to * for another ring. Turn wrong side. S c down to fifth
stitch from stalk. Repeat another ring, when the work will be on the
right side. Bring the cotton to the side of this last ring nearest to
stalk. 13 c s, s c into top of last ring. 6 c s, s c into same stitch.
13 c s, s c into foundation close to the lower part of ring. 5 c s, s c
into _foundation-ring,_ close to centre ring, at the top. 13 c s, s c
into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch; 13 c s, s c into
foundation at bottom of ring; 5 c s, s c into foundation at lower part
of next ring; 13 c s, s c into top of ring; 6 c s, s c into same stitch;
13 c s, s c into foundation at the other side of ring. Fasten off.
Sixteen of these sprigs are required, and sixteen more small roses.
Place one sprig between each of the chains of 24 d c, where they meet at
the points of the leaves, and sew them by the thread which was left at
the end of the stalk. Confine them to the 24 d c by the lower 13 c s.
Place a small rose between each of these sprigs, fastening them together
where they meet. The best way is, to cut out a circle in coloured paper,
and (after the crochet work is completed) place the mat wrong side up
upon it, and fasten the flowers to it and to each other, as it will then
be quite flat and smooth.

* * * * *

_EMBROIDERY IN BRAID_.

79, 80. LADY'S SLIPPER.

_Materials--Black satin or velvet, gold braid, and gold beads_.

Pencil the design on tissue-paper, trace this over with ink, tack the
pattern thus prepared on the right side of the satin or velvet. Sew the
braid on by the pattern, and when completed tear away the paper. Sew on
the beads with strong sewing-silk in the spaces indicated in the design.

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