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The Book of Household Management by Mrs. Isabella Beeton

Part 23 out of 34

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1409. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of sugar, 1 quart of milk, 1-1/2 oz. of
isinglass, the rind of 1/2 lemon, 4 laurel-leaves.

[Illustration: BLANC-MANGE.]

_Mode_.--Put all the ingredients into a lined saucepan, and boil gently
until the isinglass is dissolved; taste it occasionally, to ascertain
when it is sufficiently flavoured with the laurel-leaves; then take them
out, and keep stirring the mixture over the fire for about 10 minutes.
Strain it through a fine sieve into a jug, and, when nearly cold, pour
it into a well-oiled mould, omitting the sediment at the bottom. Turn it
out carefully on a dish, and garnish with preserves, bright jelly, or a
compote of fruit.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BREAD-AND-BUTTER FRITTERS.

1410. INGREDIENTS.--Batter, 8 slices of bread and butter, 3 or 4
tablespoonfuls of jam.

_Mode_.--Make a batter, the same as for apple fritters No. 1393; cut
some slices of bread and butter, not very thick; spread half of them
with any jam that may he preferred, and cover with the other slices;
slightly press them together, and cut them out in square, long, or round
pieces. Dip them in the batter, and fry in boiling lard for about 10
minutes; drain them before the fire on a piece of blotting-paper or
cloth. Dish them, sprinkle over sifted sugar, and serve.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

TO MAKE THE STOCK FOR JELLY, AND TO CLARIFY IT.

1411. INGREDIENTS.--2 calf's feet, 6 pints of water.

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]

[Illustration: JELLY-BAG.]

_Mode_.--The stock for jellies should always be made the day before it
is required for use, as the liquor has time to cool, and the fat can be
so much more easily and effectually removed when thoroughly set. Procure
from the butcher's 2 nice calf's feet: scald them, to take off the hair;
slit them in two, remove the fat from between the claws, and wash the
feet well in warm water; put them into a stewpan, with the above
proportion of cold water, bring it gradually to boil, and remove every
particle of scum as it rises. When it is well skimmed, boil it very
gently for 6 or 7 hours, or until the liquor is reduced rather more than
half; then strain it through a sieve into a basin, and put it in a cool
place to set. As the liquor is strained, measure it, to ascertain the
proportion for the jelly, allowing something for the sediment and fat at
the top. To clarify it, carefully remove all the fat from the top, pour
over a little warm water, to wash away any that may remain, and wipe the
jelly with a clean cloth; remove the jelly from the sediment, put it
into a saucepan, and, supposing the quantity to be a quart, add to it 6
oz. of loaf sugar, the shells and well-whisked whites of 5 eggs, and
stir these ingredients together cold; set the saucepan on the fire, but
_do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm_. Let it boil about 10
minutes after it rises to a head, then throw in a teacupful of cold
water; let it boil 5 minutes longer, then take the saucepan off, cover
it closely, and let it remain 1/2 hour near the fire. Dip the jelly-bag
into hot water, wring it out quite dry, and fasten it on to a stand or
the back of a chair, which must be placed near the fire, to prevent the
jelly from setting before it has run through the bag. Place a basin
underneath to receive the jelly; then pour it into the bag, and should
it not be clear the first time, run it through the bag again. This stock
is the foundation of all _really good_ jellies, which may be varied in
innumerable ways, by colouring and flavouring with liqueurs, and by
moulding it with fresh and preserved fruits. To insure the jelly being
firm when turned out, 1/2 oz. of isinglass clarified might be added to
the above proportion of stock. Substitutes for calf's feet are now
frequently used in making jellies, which lessen the expense and trouble
in preparing this favourite dish; isinglass and gelatine being two of
the principal materials employed; but, although they may _look_ as
nicely as jellies made from good stock, they are never so delicate,
having very often an unpleasant flavour, somewhat resembling glue,
particularly when made with gelatine.

_Time_.--About 6 hours to boil the feet for the stock; to clarify
it,--1/4 hour to boil, 1/2 hour to stand in the saucepan covered.

_Average cost_.--Calf's feet may be purchased for 6d. each when veal is
in full season, but more expensive when it is scarce.

_Sufficient_.--2 calf's feet should make 1 quart of stock.

_Seasonable_ from March to October, but may be had all the year.

HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.--The very stout flannel called
double-mill, used for ironing-blankets, is the best material for
a jelly-bag: those of home manufacture are the only ones to be
relied on for thoroughly clearing the jelly. Care should be
taken that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, to secure it
against unequal filtration. The most convenient mode of using
the big is to tie it upon a hoop the exact size of the outside
of its mouth; and, to do this, strings should be sewn round it
at equal distances. The jelly-bag may, of coarse, be made any
size; but one of twelve or fourteen inches deep, and seven or
eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The
form of a jelly-bag is the fool's cap.

COW-HEEL STOCK FOR JELLIES.

(More Economical than Calf's Feet.)

1412. INGREDIENTS.--2 cow-heels, 3 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Procure 2 heels that have only been scalded, and not boiled;
split them in two, and remove the fat between the claws; wash them well
in warm water, and put them into a saucepan with the above proportion of
cold water; bring it gradually to boil, remove all the scum as it rises,
and simmer the heels gently from 7 to 8 hours, or until the liquor is
reduced one-half; then strain it into a basin, measuring the quantity,
and put it in a cool place. Clarify it in the same manner as calf's-feet
stock No. 1411, using, with the other ingredients, about 1/2 oz. of
isinglass to each quart. This stock should be made the day before it is
required for use. Two dozen shank-bones of mutton, boiled for 6 or 7
hours, yield a quart of strong firm stock. They should be put on in 2
quarts of water, which should be reduced one-half. Make this also the
day before it is required.

_Time_.--7 to 8 hours to boil the cow-heels, 6 to 7 hours to boil the
shank-bones.

_Average cost_, from 4d. to 6d. each.

_Sufficient_.--2 cow-heels should make 3 pints of stock.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ISINGLASS OR GELATINE JELLY.

(_Substitutes for Calf's Feet_.)

1413. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of isinglass or gelatine, 2 quarts of water.

_Mode_.--Put the isinglass or gelatine into a saucepan with the above
proportion of cold water; bring it quickly to boil, and let it boil very
fast, until the liquor is reduced one-half. Carefully remove the scum as
it rises, then strain it through a jelly-bag, and it will be ready for
use. If not required very clear, it may be merely strained through a
fine sieve, instead of being run through a bag. Rather more than 1/2 oz.
of isinglass is about the proper quantity to use for a quart of strong
calf's-feet stock, and rather more than 2 oz. for the same quantity of
fruit juice. As isinglass varies so much in quality and strength, it is
difficult to give the exact proportions. The larger the mould, the
stiffer should be the jelly; and where there is no ice, more isinglass
must be used than if the mixture were frozen. This forms a stock for all
kinds of jellies, which may be flavoured in many ways.

_Time_.--1-1/2 hour.

_Sufficient_, with wine, syrup, fruit, &c., to fill two moderate-sized
moulds.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--The above, when boiled, should be perfectly clear, and may be
mixed warm with wine, flavourings, fruits, &c., and then run through the
bag.

ISINGLASS.--The best isinglass is brought from Russia; some of
an inferior kind is brought from North and South America and the
East Indies: the several varieties may be had from the wholesale
dealers in isinglass in London. In choosing isinglass for
domestic use, select that which is whitest, has no unpleasant
odour, and which dissolves most readily in water. The inferior
kinds are used for fining beer, and similar purposes. Isinglass
is much adulterated: to test its purity, take a few threads of
the substance, drop some into boiling water, some into cold
water, and some into vinegar. In the boiling water the isinglass
will dissolve, in cold water it will become white and "cloudy,"
and in vinegar it will swell and become jelly-like. If the
isinglass is adulterated with gelatine (that is to say, the
commoner sorts of gelatine,--for isinglass is classed amongst
gelatines, of all which varieties it is the very purest and
best), in boiling water the gelatine will not so completely
dissolve as the isinglass; in cold water it becomes clear and
jelly-like; and in vinegar it will harden.

HOW TO MOULD BOTTLED JELLIES.

1414. Uncork the bottle; place it in a saucepan of hot water until the
jelly is reduced to a liquid state; taste it, to ascertain whether it is
sufficiently flavoured, and if not, add a little wine. Pour the jelly
into moulds which have been soaked in water; let it set, and turn it out
by placing the mould in hot water for a minute; then wipe the outside,
put a dish on the top, and turn it over quickly. The jelly should then
slip easily away from the mould, and be quite firm. It may be garnished
as taste dictates.

TO CLARIFY SYRUP FOR JELLIES.

1415. INGREDIENTS.--To every quart of water allow 2 lbs. of loaf sugar;
the white of 1 egg.

_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a stewpan; set it on the fire,
and, when the sugar is dissolved, add the white of the egg, whipped up
with a little water. Whisk the whole well together, and simmer very
gently until it has thrown up all the scum. Take this off as it rises,
strain the syrup through a fine sieve or cloth into a basin, and keep it
for use.

CALF'S-FEET JELLY.

1416. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of calf's-feet stock No. 1411, 1/2 lb. of
sugar, 1/2 pint of sherry, 1 glass of brandy, the shells and whites of 5
eggs, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Prepare the stock as directed in recipe No. 1411, taking care
to leave the sediment, and to remove all the fat from the surface. Put
it into a saucepan, cold, without clarifying it; add the remaining
ingredients, and stir them well together before the saucepan is placed
on the fire. Then simmer the mixture gently for 1/4 hour, _but do not
stir it after it begins to warm_. Throw in a teacupful of cold water,
boil for another 5 minutes, and keep the saucepan covered by the side of
the fire for about 1/2 hour, but do not let it boil again. In simmering,
the head or scum may be carefully removed as it rises; but particular
attention must be given to the jelly, that it be not stirred in the
slightest degree after it is heated. The isinglass should be added when
the jelly begins to boil: this assists to clear it, and makes it firmer
for turning out. Wring out a jelly-bag in hot water; fasten it on to a
stand, or the back of a chair; place it near the fire with a basin
underneath it, and run the jelly through it. Should it not be perfectly
clear the first time, repeat the process until the desired brilliancy is
obtained. Soak the moulds in water, drain them for half a second, pour
in the jelly, and put it in a cool place to set. If ice is at hand,
surround the moulds with it, and the jelly will set sooner, and be
firmer when turned out. In summer it is necessary to have ice in which
to put the moulds, or the cook will be, very likely, disappointed, by
her jellies being in too liquid a state to turn out properly, unless a
great deal of isinglass is used. When wanted for table, dip the moulds
in hot water for a minute, wipe the outside with a cloth, lay a dish on
the top of the mould, turn it quickly over, and the jelly should slip
out easily. It is sometimes served broken into square lumps, and piled
high in glasses. Earthenware moulds are preferable to those of pewter or
tin, for red jellies, the colour and transparency of the composition
being often spoiled by using the latter.

[Illustration: JELLY-MOULD.]

To make this jelly more economically, raisin wine may be substituted for
the sherry and brandy, and the stock made from cow-heels, instead of
calf's feet.

_Time_.--20 minutes to simmer the jelly, 1/2 hour to stand covered.

_Average cost_, reckoning the feet at 6d. each, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--As lemon-juice, unless carefully strained, is liable to make
the jelly muddy, see that it is clear before it is added to the other
ingredients. Omit the brandy when the flavour is objected to.

SHERRY.--There are several kinds of sherry, as pale and brown, and there
are various degrees of each. Sherry is, in general, of an amber-colour,
and, when good, has a fine aromatic odour, with something of the
agreeable bitterness of the peach kernel. When new, it is harsh and
fiery, and requires to be mellowed in the wood for four or five years.
Sherry has of late got much into fashion in England, from the idea that
it is more free from acid than other wines; but some careful experiments
on wines do not fully confirm this opinion.

CANNELONS, or FRIED PUFFS.

(_Sweet Entremets_.)

1417. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of puff-paste No. 1205; apricot, or any kind
of preserve that may be preferred; hot lard.

_Mode_.--Cannelons which are made of puff-paste rolled very thin, with
jam inclosed, and cut out in long narrow rolls or puffs, make a very
pretty and elegant dish. Make some good puff-paste, by recipe No. 1205;
roll it out very thin, and cut it into pieces of an equal size, about 2
inches wide and 8 inches long; place upon each piece a spoonful of jam,
wet the edges with the white of egg, and fold the paste over _twice;_
slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape in the
frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a
nice brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are
coloured, that the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the
fire, dish on a d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve.
These cannelons are very delicious made with fresh instead of preserved
fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, or currants: it should be laid
in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar sprinkled over, and folded and
fried in the same manner as stated above.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_,--1/2 lb. of paste for a moderate-sized dish of cannelons.

_Seasonable_, with jam, at any time.

CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1418. INGREDIENTS.--A few slices of rather stale bread 1/2 inch thick,
clarified butter, apple marmalade made by recipe No. 1395, with about 2
dozen apples, 1/2 glass of sherry.

[Illustration: CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.]

_Mode_.--Cut a slice of bread the same shape as the bottom of a plain
round mould, which has been well buttered, and a few strips the height
of the mould, and about 1-1/2 inch wide; dip the bread in clarified
butter (or spread it with cold butter, if not wanted quite so rich);
place the round piece at the bottom of the mould, and set the narrow
strips up the sides of it, overlapping each other a little, that no
juice from the apples may escape, and that they may hold firmly to the
mould. Brush the _interior_ over with white of egg (this will assist to
make the case firmer); fill it with apple marmalade made by recipe No.
1395, with the addition of a little sherry, and cover them with a round
piece of bread, also brushed over with egg, the same as the bottom;
slightly press the bread down, to make it adhere to the other pieces;
put a plate on the top, and bake the _charlotte_ in a brisk oven, of a
light colour. Turn it out on the dish, strew sifted sugar over the top,
and pour round it a little melted apricot jam.

_Time_.--40 to 50 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

AN EASY METHOD OF MAKING A CHARLOTTE-AUX-POMMES.

1419. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of flour, 1/4 lb. of butter, 1/4 lb. of
powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoonful of baking-powder, 1 egg, milk, 1 glass
of raisin-wine, apple marmalade No. 1395, 1/4 pint of cream, 2
dessertspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice.

_Mode_.--Make a cake with the flour, butter, sugar, and baking-powder;
moisten with the egg and sufficient milk to make it the proper
consistency, and bake it in a round tin. When cold, scoop out the
middle, leaving a good thickness all round the sides, to prevent them
breaking; take some of the scooped-out pieces, which should be trimmed
into neat slices; lay them in the cake, and pour over sufficient
raisin-wine, with the addition of a little brandy, if approved, to soak
them well. Have ready some apple marmalade, made by recipe No. 1395;
place a layer of this over the soaked cake, then a layer of cake and a
layer of apples; whip the cream to a froth, mixing with it the sugar and
lemon-juice; pile it on the top of the _charlotte_, and garnish it with
pieces of clear apple jelly. This dish is served cold, but may be eaten
hot, by omitting the cream, and merely garnishing the top with bright
jelly just before it is sent to table.

_Time_.--1 hour to bake the cake. _Average cost_, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

A VERY SIMPLE APPLE CHARLOTTE.

1420. INGREDIENTS.--9 slices of bread and butter, about 6 good-sized
apples, 1 tablespoonful of minced lemon-peel, 2 tablespoonfuls of juice,
moist sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Butter a pie-dish; place a layer of bread and butter, without
the crust, at the bottom; then a layer of apples, pared, cored, and cut
into thin slices; sprinkle over these a portion of the lemon-peel and
juice, and sweeten with moist sugar. Place another layer of bread and
butter, and then one of apples, proceeding in this manner until the dish
is full; then cover it up with the peel of the apples, to preserve the
top from browning or burning; bake in a brisk oven for rather more than
3/4 hour; torn the charlotte on a dish, sprinkle sifted sugar over, and
serve.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 5 or 6 persons. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.

(_An Elegant Sweet Entremets_.)

1421. INGREDIENTS.--About 18 Savoy biscuits, 3/4 pint of cream,
flavouring of vanilla, liqueurs, or wine, 1 tablespoonful of pounded
sugar, 1/2 oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Procure about 18 Savoy biscuits, or ladies'-fingers, as they
are sometimes called; brush the edges of them with the white of an egg,
and line the bottom of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or
rosette. Stand them upright all round the edge; carefully put them so
closely together that the white of the egg connects them firmly, and
place this case in the oven for about 5 minutes, just to dry the egg.
Whisk the cream to a stiff froth, with the sugar, flavouring, and melted
isinglass; fill the charlotte with it, cover with a slice of sponge-cake
cut in the shape of the mould; place it in ice, where let it remain till
ready for table; then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 1
tablespoonful of liqueur of any kind, or 4 tablespoonfuls of wine, would
nicely flavour the above proportion of cream. For arranging the biscuits
in the mould, cut them to the shape required, so that they fit in
nicely, and level them with the mould at the top, that, when turned out,
there may be something firm to rest upon. Great care and attention is
required in the turning out of this dish, that the cream does not burst
the case; and the edges of the biscuits must have the smallest quantity
of egg brushed over them, or it would stick to the mould, and so prevent
the charlotte from coming away properly.

_Time_.--5 minutes in the oven.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 charlotte. _Seasonable_ at any time.

CREAM A LA VALOIS.

1422. INGREDIENTS.--4 sponge-cakes, jam, 3/4 pint of cream, sugar to
taste, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/4 glass of sherry, 1-1/4 oz. of
isinglass.

_Mode_.--Cut the sponge-cakes into thin slices; place two together, with
preserve between them, and pour over them a small quantity of sherry
mixed with a little brandy. Sweeten and flavour the cream with the
lemon-juice and sherry; add the isinglass, which should be dissolved in
a little water, and beat up the cream well. Place a little in an oiled
mould; arrange the pieces of cake in the cream; then fill the mould with
the remainder; let it cool, and turn it out on a dish. By oiling the
mould, the cream will have a much smoother appearance, and will turn out
more easily than when merely dipped in cold water.

_Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BOILED CUSTARDS.

1423. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 5 eggs, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 3
laurel-leaves, or the rind of 4 lemon, or a few drops of essence of
vanilla, 1 tablespoonful of brandy.

[Illustration: CUSTARDS IN GLASSES.]

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan, with the sugar, and
whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred (the lemon-rind
flavours custards most deliciously), and let the milk steep by the side
of the fire until it is well flavoured. Bring it to the point of
boiling, then strain it into a basin; whisk the eggs well, and, when the
milk has cooled a little, stir in the eggs, and _strain_ this mixture
into a jug. Place this jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire;
keep stirring the custard _one way_ until it thickens; but on no account
allow it to reach the boiling-point, as it will instantly curdle and be
full of lumps. Take it off the fire, stir in the brandy, and, when this
is well mixed with the custard, pour it into glasses, which should be
rather more than three-parts full; grate a little nutmeg over the top,
and the dish is ready for table. To make custards look and eat better,
ducks' eggs should be used, when obtainable; they add very much to the
flavour and richness, and so many are not required as of the ordinary
eggs, 4 ducks' eggs to the pint of milk making a delicious custard. When
desired extremely rich and good, cream should be substituted for the
milk, and double the quantity of eggs used, to those mentioned, omitting
the whites.

_Time_. 1/2 hour to infuse the lemon-rind, about 10 minutes to stir the
custard. _Average cost_, 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 8 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.

GINGER APPLES.

(_A pretty Supper or Dessert Dish_.)

1424. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of whole ginger, 1/4 pint of whiskey, 3
lbs. of apples, 2 lbs. of white sugar, the juice of 2 lemons.

_Mode_.--Bruise the ginger, put it into a small jar, pour over
sufficient whiskey to cover it, and let it remain for 3 days; then cut
the apples into thin slices, after paring and coring them; add the sugar
and the lemon-juice, which should he strained; and simmer all together
_very gently_ until the apples are transparent, but not broken. Serve
cold, and garnish the dish with slices of candied lemon-peel or
preserved ginger.

_Time_.--3 days to soak the ginger; about 3/4 hour to simmer the apples
very gently.

_Average cost_, 2s, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 dishes. _Seasonable_ from July to March.

FRENCH PANCAKES.

1425. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar, 2
oz. of flour, 1/2 pint of new milk.

_Mode_.--Beat the eggs thoroughly, and put them into a basin with the
butter, which should be beaten to a cream; stir in the sugar and flour,
and when these ingredients are well mixed, add the milk; keep stirring
and beating the mixture for a few minutes; put it on buttered plates,
and bake in a quick oven for 20 minutes. Serve with a cut lemon and
sifted sugar, or pile the pancakes high on a dish, with a layer of
preserve or marmalade between each.

_Time_.--20 minutes. _Average cost_, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

DUTCH FLUMMERY.

1426. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the rind and juice of 1
lemon, 1 pint of water, 4 eggs, 1 pint of sherry, Madeira, or
raisin-wine; sifted sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the water, isinglass, and lemon-rind into a lined saucepan,
and simmer gently until the isinglass is dissolved; strain this into a
basin, stir in the eggs, which should be well beaten, the lemon-juice,
which should be strained, and the wine; sweeten to taste with pounded
sugar, mix all well together, pour it into a jug, set this jug in a
saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and keep stirring it one way
until it thickens; but _take care that it does not boil_. Strain it into
a mould that has been oiled or laid in water for a short time, and put
it in a cool place to set. A tablespoonful of brandy stirred in just
before it is poured into the mould, improves the flavour of this dish:
it is better if made the day before it is required for table.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the isinglass; about 1/4 hour to stir the
mixture over the fire.

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d., if made with sherry; less with raisin-wine.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

PALE SHERRIES are made from the same grapes as brown. The latter
are coloured by an addition of some cheap must, or wine which
has been boiled till it has acquired a deep-brown tint. Pale
sherries were, some time ago, preferred in England, being
supposed most pure; but the brown are preferred by many people.
The inferior sherries exported to England are often mixed with a
cheap and light wine called Moguer, and are strengthened in the
making by brandy; but too frequently they are adulterated by the
London dealers.

CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE.

1427. INGREDIENTS.--4 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of pounded sugar, 1
teaspoonful of flour, 3 oz. of the best chocolate.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs, separating the whites from the yolks, and put
them into different basins; add to the yolks the sugar, flour, and
chocolate, which should be very finely grated, and stir these
ingredients for 5 minutes. Then well whisk the whites of the eggs in the
other basin, until they are stiff, and, when firm, mix lightly with the
yolks, till the whole forms a smooth and light substance; butter a round
cake-tin, put in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20
minutes. Pin a white napkin round the tin, strew sifted sugar over the
top of the souffle, and send it immediately to table. The proper
appearance of this dish depends entirely on the expedition with which it
is served, and some cooks, to preserve its lightness, hold a salamander
over the souffle until it is placed on the table. If allowed to stand
after it comes from the oven, it will be entirely spoiled, as it falls
almost immediately.

_Time_.--15 to 20 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for a moderate-sized souffle. _Seasonable_ at any time.

DARIOLES A LA VANILLE.

(_Sweet Entremets_.)

1428. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 oz. of flour,
3 oz. of pounded sugar, 6 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, puff-paste, flavouring
of essence of vanilla.

_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter, with the milk; stir in the
cream, sugar, the eggs, which should be well whisked, and the butter,
which should be beaten to a cream. Put in some essence of vanilla, drop
by drop, until the mixture is well flavoured; line some dariole-moulds
with puff-paste, three-parts fill them with the batter, and bake in a
good oven from 25 to 35 minutes. Turn them out of the moulds on a dish,
without breaking them; strew over sifted sugar, and serve. The
flavouring of the darioles may be varied by substituting lemon,
cinnamon, or almonds, for the vanilla.

_Time_.--25 to 35 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 6 or 7 dariole-moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

CURRANT FRITTERS.

1429. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, 4 eggs,
3 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, 3 tablespoonfuls of currants, sugar to
taste, a very little grated nutmeg, hot lard or clarified dripping.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a basin with the flour, which should
previously be rubbed to a smooth batter with a little cold milk; stir
these ingredients together; add the well-whisked eggs, the rice,
currants, sugar, and nutmeg. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, and, if
not sufficiently thick, add a little more boiled rice; drop it, in small
quantities, into a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; fry the
fritters a nice brown, and, when done, drain them on a piece of
blotting-paper, before the fire. Pile them on a white d'oyley, strew
over sifted sugar, and serve them very hot. Send a cut lemon to table
with them.

_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

CHOCOLATE CREAM.

1430. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of grated chocolate, 1/4 lb. of sugar, 1-1/2
pint of cream, 1/2 oz. of clarified isinglass, the yolks of 6 eggs.

[Illustration: CREAM-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the
grated chocolate, the sugar, and 1 pint of the cream; stir these
ingredients well together, pour them into a jug, and set this jug in a
saucepan of boiling water; stir it one way until the mixture thickens,
but _do not allow it to boil_, or it will curdle. Strain the cream
through a sieve into a basin; stir in the isinglass and the other 1/2
pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well together, and
pour it into a mould which has been previously oiled with the purest
salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice until wanted for table.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the mixture over the fire.

_Average cost_, 4s. 6d, with cream at 1s. per pint.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

GENEVA WAFERS.

1431. INGREDIENTS.--2 eggs, 3 oz. of butter, 3 oz. of flour, 3 oz. of
pounded sugar.

_Mode_.--Well whisk the eggs; put them into a basin, and stir to them
the butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted
sugar gradually, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet,
and drop on it a teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space
between each. Bake in a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when
half done, roll them up like wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread
or piece of wood, to keep them in shape. Return them to the oven until
crisp. Before serving, remove the bread, put a spoonful of preserve in
the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. This is a very pretty
and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice and very
easily made.

_Time_.--Altogether 20 to 25 minutes.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the preserve and cream, 7d.

_Sufficient_ for a nice-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.

GINGER CREAM.

1432. INGREDIENTS.--The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 3 oz. of
preserved ginger, 2 dessertspoonfuls of syrup, sifted sugar to taste, 1
oz. of isinglass.

_Mode_.--Slice the ginger finely; put it into a basin with the syrup,
the well-beaten yolks of eggs, and the cream; mix these ingredients well
together, and stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until the
mixture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold,
sweeten to taste, add the isinglass, which should be melted and
strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. It may be garnished with
slices of preserved ginger or candied citron.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to stir the cream over the fire.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for a good-sized dish. _Seasonable_ at any time.

PRESERVED GINGER comes to us from the West Indies. It is made by
scalding the roots when they are green and full of sap, then
peeling them in cold water, and putting them into jars, with a
rich syrup; in which state we receive them. It should be chosen
of a bright-yellow colour, with a little transparency: what is
dark-coloured, fibrous, and stringy, is not good. Ginger roots,
fit for preserving, and in size equal to West Indian, have been
produced in the Royal Agricultural Garden in Edinburgh.

TO MAKE GOOSEBERRY FOOL.

1433. INGREDIENTS.--Green gooseberries; to every pint of pulp add 1 pint
of milk, or 1/2 pint of cream and 1/2 pint of milk; sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Cut the tops and tails off the gooseberries; put them into a
jar, with 2 tablespoonfuls of water and a little good moist sugar; set
this jar in a saucepan of boiling water, and let it boil until the fruit
is soft enough to mash. When done enough, beat it to a pulp, work this
pulp through a colander, and stir to every pint the above proportion of
milk, or equal quantities of milk and cream. Ascertain if the mixture is
sweet enough, and put in plenty of sugar, or it will not be eatable; and
in mixing the milk and gooseberries, add the former very gradually to
these: serve in a glass dish, or in small glasses. This, although a very
old-fashioned and homely dish, is, when well made, very delicious, and,
if properly sweetened, a very suitable preparation for children.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour. _Average cost_, 6d. per pint, with milk.

_Sufficient_.--A pint of milk and a pint of gooseberry pulp for 5 or 6
children.

_Seasonable_ in May and June.

GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.

1434. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, 1 pint of
custard No. 1423, a plateful of whipped cream.

_Mode_.--Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar to
sweeten them, and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at
the bottom of a trifle-dish; pour over it a pint of custard made by
recipe No. 1423, and, when cold, cover with whipped cream. The cream
should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it will then
be so much firmer and more solid. The dish may be garnished as fancy
dictates.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to boil the gooseberries.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle. _Seasonable_ in May and June.

INDIAN FRITTERS.

1435. INGREDIENTS.--3 tablespoonfuls of flour, boiling water, the yolks
of 4 eggs, the whites of 2, hot lard or clarified dripping, jam.

_Mode_.--Put the flour into a basin, and pour over it sufficient
_boiling_ water to make it into a stiff paste, taking care to stir and
beat it well, to prevent it getting lumpy. Leave it a little time to
cool, and then break into it (_without beating them at first_) the yolks
of 4 eggs and the whites of 2, and stir and beat all well together. Have
ready some boiling lard or butter; drop a dessertspoonful of batter in
at a time, and fry the fritters of a light brown. They should rise so
much as to be almost like balls. Serve on a dish, with a spoonful of
preserve or marmalade dropped in between each fritter. This is an
excellent dish for a hasty addition to dinner, if a guest unexpectedly
arrives, it being so easily and quickly made, and it is always a great
favourite.

_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to fry the fritters.

_Average cost_, exclusive of the jam, 5d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

INDIAN TRIFLE.

1436. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the rind of 1/2 large lemon, sugar
to taste, 5 heaped tablespoonfuls of rice-flour, 1 oz. of sweet almonds,
1/2 pint of custard.

_Mode_.--Boil the milk and lemon-rind together until the former is well
flavoured; take out the lemon-rind and stir in the rice-flour, which
should first be moistened with cold milk, and add sufficient loaf sugar
to sweeten it nicely. Boil gently for about 5 minutes, and keep the
mixture stirred; take it off the fire, let it cool _a little_, and pour
it into a glass dish. When cold, cut the rice out in the form of a star,
or any other shape that may be preferred; take out the spare rice, and
fill the space with boiled custard. Blanch and cut the almonds into
strips; stick them over the trifle, and garnish it with pieces of
brightly-coloured jelly, or preserved fruits, or candied citron.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to simmer the milk, 5 minutes after the rice is added.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 1 trifle.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

[Illustration: THE CITRON.]

THE CITRON.--The citron belongs to the same species as the
lemon, being considered only as a variety, the distinction
between them not being very great. It is larger, and is less
succulent, but more acid: with a little artificial heat, the
citron comes to as great perfection in England as in Spain and
Italy. The fruit is oblong and about five or six inches in
length. The tree is thorny. The juice forms an excellent
lemonade with sugar and water; its uses in punch, negus, and in
medicine, are well known. The rind is very thick, and, when
candied with sugar, forms an excellent sweetmeat. There are
several varieties cultivated in England, one of which is termed
the Forbidden Fruit.

ITALIAN CREAM.

1437. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of milk, 4 pint of cream, sugar to taste, 1
oz. of isinglass, 1 lemon, the yolks of 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the cream and milk into a saucepan, with sugar to sweeten,
and the lemon-rind. Boil until the milk is well flavoured then strain it
into a basin, and add the beaten yolks of eggs. Put this mixture into a
jug; place the jug in a saucepan of boiling water over the fire, and
stir the contents until they thicken, but do not allow them to boil.
Take the cream off the fire, stir in the lemon-juice and isinglass,
which should be melted, and whip well; fill a mould, place it in ice if
at hand, and, when set, turn it out on a dish, and garnish as taste may
dictate. The mixture may be whipped and drained, and then put into small
glasses, when this mode of serving is preferred.

_Time_.--From 5 to 8 minutes to stir the mixture in the jug.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

THE HIDDEN MOUNTAIN.

(_A pretty Supper Dish_.)

1438. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, a few slices of citron, sugar to taste, 1/4
pint of cream, a layer of any kind of jam.

_Mode_.--Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately; then mix them
and beat well again, adding a few thin slices of citron, the cream, and
sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten it nicely. When the mixture is well
beaten, put it into a buttered pan, and fry the same as a pancake; but
it should be three times the thickness of an ordinary pancake. Cover it
with jam, and garnish with slices of citron and holly-leaves. This dish
is served cold.

_Time_.--About 10 minutes to fry the mixture.

_Average cost_, with the jam, 1s. 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JAUNEMANGE.

1439. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 1 pint of water, 1/2 pint of
white wine, the rind and juice of 1 large lemon, sugar to taste, the
yolks of 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the isinglass, water, and lemon-rind into a saucepan, and
boil gently until the former is dissolved; then add the strained
lemon-juice, the wine, and sufficient white sugar to sweeten the whole
nicely. Boil for 2 or 3 minutes, strain the mixture into a jug, and add
the yolks of the eggs, which should be well beaten; place the jug in a
saucepan of boiling water; keep stirring the mixture _one way_ until it
thickens, _but do not allow it to boil_; then take it off the fire, and
keep stirring until nearly cold. Pour it into a mould, omitting the
sediment at the bottom of the jug, and let it remain until quite firm.

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the isinglass and water; about 10 minutes to
stir the mixture in the jug.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

JELLY MOULDED WITH FRESH FRUIT, or MACEDOINE DE FRUITS.

1440. INGREDIENTS.--Rather more than 1-1/2 pint of jelly, a few nice
strawberries, or red or white currants, or raspberries, or any fresh
fruit that may be in season.

_Mode_.--Have ready the above proportion of jelly, which must be very
clear and rather sweet, the raw fruit requiring an additional quantity
of sugar. Select ripe, nice-looking fruit; pick off the stalks, unless
currants are used, when they are laid in the jelly as they come from the
tree. Begin by putting a little jelly at the bottom of the mould, which
must harden; then arrange the fruit round the sides of the mould,
recollecting; that _it will be reversed when turned out;_ then pour in
some more jelly to make the fruit adhere, and, when that layer is set,
put another row of fruit and jelly until the mould is full. If
convenient, put it in ice until required for table, then wring a cloth
in boiling water, wrap it round the mould for a minute, and turn the
jelly carefully out. Peaches, apricots, plums, apples, &c., are better
for being boiled in a little clear syrup before they are laid in the
jelly; strawberries, raspberries, grapes, cherries, and currants are put
in raw. In winter, when fresh fruits are not obtainable, a very pretty
jelly may be made with preserved fruits or brandy cherries: these, in a
bright and clear jelly, have a very pretty effect; of course, unless the
jelly be _very clear_, the beauty of the dish will be spoiled. It may be
garnished with the same fruit as is laid in the jelly; for instance, an
open jelly with strawberries might have, piled in the centre, a few of
the same fruit prettily arranged, or a little whipped cream might be
substituted for the fruit.

[Illustration: JELLY MOULDED WITH CHERRIES.]

_Time_.--One layer of jelly should remain 2 hours in a very cool place,
before another layer is added. _Average cost_, 2s. 6d.

_Sufficient_, with fruit, to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_, with fresh fruit, from June to October; with dried, at any
time.

JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.

1441. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of calf's-feet jelly No. 1416, a few
drops of prepared cochineal.

[Illustration: JELLY OF TWO COLOURS.]

_Mode_.--Make 1-1/2 pint of jelly by recipe No. 1416, or, if wished more
economical, of clarified syrup and gelatine, flavouring it in any way
that may be preferred. Colour one-half of the jelly with a few drops of
prepared cochineal, and the other half leave as pale as possible. Have
ready a mould well wetted in every part; pour in a small quantity of the
red jelly, and let this set; when quite firm, pour on it the same
quantity of the pale jelly, and let this set; then proceed in this
manner until the mould is full, always taking care to let one jelly set
before the other is poured in, or the colours would run one into the
other. When turned out, the jelly should have a striped appearance. For
variety, half the mould may be filled at once with one of the jellies,
and, when firm, filled up with the other: this, also, has a very pretty
effect, and is more expeditiously prepared than when the jelly is poured
in small quantities into the mould. Blancmange and red jelly, or
blancmange and raspberry cream, moulded in the above manner, look very
well. The layers of blancmange and jelly should be about an inch in
depth, and each layer should be perfectly hardened before another is
added. Half a mould of blancmange and half a mould of jelly are
frequently served in the same manner. A few pretty dishes may be made,
in this way, of jellies or blancmanges left from the preceding day, by
melting them separately in a jug placed in a saucepan of boiling water,
and then moulding them by the foregoing directions. (See coloured plate
S1.)

_Time_.--3/4 hour to make the jelly.

_Average cost_, with calf's-feet jelly, 2s.; with gelatine and syrup,
more economical.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2 pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

_Note_.--In making the jelly, use for flavouring a very pale sherry, or
the colour will be too dark to contrast nicely with the red jelly.

LEMON BLANCMANGE.

1442. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 3 oz. of
ground rice, 6 oz. of pounded sugar, 1-1/2 oz. of fresh butter, the rind
of 1 lemon, the juice of 2, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.

[Illustration: BLANCMANGE MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Make a custard with the yolks of the eggs and 1/2 pint of the
milk, and, when done, put it into a basin: put half the remainder of the
milk into a saucepan with the ground rice, fresh butter, lemon-rind, and
3 oz. of the sugar, and let these ingredients boil until the mixture is
stiff, stirring them continually; when done, pour it into the bowl where
the custard is, mixing both well together. Put the gelatine with the
rest of the milk into a saucepan, and let it stand by the side of the
fire to dissolve; boil for a minute or two, stir carefully into the
basin, adding 3 oz. more of pounded sugar. When cold, stir in the
lemon-juice, which should be carefully strained, and pour the mixture
into a well-oiled mould, leaving out the lemon-peel, and set the mould
in a pan of cold water until wanted for table. Use eggs that have
rich-looking yolks; and, should the weather be very warm, rather a
larger proportion of gelatine must be allowed.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour. _Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 2 small moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LEMON CREAM.

1443. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 1/4 lb. of
white sugar, 1 large lemon, 1 oz. of isinglass.

[Illustration: LEMON-CREAM MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the cream into a _lined_ saucepan with the sugar,
lemon-peel, and isinglass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about
10 minutes, stirring them all the time. Strain the cream into a jug, add
the yolks of eggs, which should be well beaten, and put the jug into a
saucepan of boiling water; stir the mixture one way until it thickens,
_but do not allow it to boil_; take it off the fire, and keep stirring
it until nearly cold. Strain the lemon-juice into a basin, gradually
pour on it the cream, and _stir it well_ until the juice is well mixed
with it. Have ready a well-oiled mould, pour the cream into it, and let
it remain until perfectly set. When required for table, loosen the edges
with a small blunt knife, put a dish on the top of the mould, turn it
over quickly, and the cream should easily slip away.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the cream; about 10 minutes to stir it over
the fire in the jug.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 2s.
6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

ECONOMICAL LEMON CREAM.

1444. INGREDIENTS.--1 quart of milk, 8 bitter almonds, 2 oz. of
gelatine, 2 large lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, the yolks of 6 eggs.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a lined saucepan with the almonds, which
should be well pounded in a mortar, the gelatine, lemon-rind, and lump
sugar, and boil these ingredients for about 5 minutes. Beat up the yolks
of the eggs, strain the milk into a jug, add the eggs, and pour the
mixture backwards and forwards a few times, until nearly cold; then stir
briskly to it the lemon-juice, which should be strained, and keep
stirring until the cream is almost cold: put it into an oiled mould, and
let it remain until perfectly set. The lemon-juice must not be added to
the cream when it is warm, and should be well stirred after it is put
in.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil the milk. _Average cost_, 2s. 5d.

_Sufficient_ to fill two 1-1/2-pint moulds. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LEMON CREAMS.

(_Very good_.)

1445. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of cream, 2 dozen sweet almonds, 3 glasses of
sherry, the rind and juice of 2 lemons, sugar to taste.

_Mode_.--Blanch and chop the almonds, and put them into a jug with the
cream; in another jug put the sherry, lemon-rind, strained juice, and
sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. Pour rapidly from
one jug to the other till the mixture is well frothed; then, pour it
into jelly-glasses, omitting the lemon-rind. This is a very cool and
delicious sweet for summer, and may be made less rich by omitting the
almonds and substituting orange or raisin wine for the sherry.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 3s.

_Sufficient_ to fill 12 glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LEMON CREAMS OF CUSTARDS.

1446. INGREDIENTS.--5 oz. of loaf sugar, 2 pints of boiling water, the
rind of 1 lemon and the juice of 3, the yolks of 8 eggs.

_Mode_.--Make a quart of lemonade in the following manner:--Dissolve the
sugar in the boiling water, having previously, with part of the sugar,
rubbed off the lemon-rind, and add the strained juice. Strain the
lemonade into a saucepan, and add the yolks of the eggs, which should be
well beaten; stir this _one way_ over the fire until the mixture
thickens, but do not allow it to boil, and serve in custard-glasses, or
on a glass dish. After the boiling water is poured on the sugar and
lemon, it should stand covered for about 1/2 hour before the eggs are
added to it, that the flavour of the rind may be extracted.

_Time_.--1/2 hour to make the lemonade; about 10 minutes to stir the
custard over the fire.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to fill 12 to 14 custard-glasses. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LEMON JELLY.

1447. INGREDIENTS.--6 lemons, 3/4 lb. of lump sugar, 1 pint of water,
1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, 1/4 pint of sherry.

_Mode_.--Peel 3 of the lemons, pour 1/2 pint of boiling water on the
rind, and let it infuse for 1/2 hour; put the sugar, isinglass, and 1/2
pint of water into a lined saucepan, and boil these ingredients for 20
minutes; then put in the strained lemon-juice, the strained infusion of
the rind, and bring the whole to the point of boiling; skim well, add
the wine, and run the jelly through a bag; pour it into a mould that has
been wetted or soaked in water; put it in ice, if convenient, where let
it remain until required for table. Previously to adding the lemon-juice
to the other ingredients, ascertain that it is very nicely strained, as,
if this is not properly attended to, it is liable to make the jelly
thick and muddy. As this jelly is very pale, and almost colourless, it
answers very well for moulding with a jelly of any bright hue; for
instance, half a jelly bright red, and the other half made of the above,
would have a very good effect. Lemon jelly may also be made with
calf's-feet stock, allowing the juice of 3 lemons to every pint of
stock.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1 hour.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 2s. 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LEMON SPONGE.

1448. INGREDIENTS.--2 oz. of isinglass, 1-3/4 pint of water, 3/4 lb. of
pounded sugar, the juice of 5 lemons, the rind of 1, the whites of 3
eggs.

_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in the water, strain it into a saucepan,
and add the sugar, lemon-rind, and juice. Boil the whole from 10 to 15
minutes; strain it again, and let it stand till it is cold and begins to
stiffen. Beat the whites of the eggs, put them to it, and whisk the
mixture till it is quite white; put it into a mould which has been
previously wetted, and let it remain until perfectly set; then turn it
out, and garnish it according to taste.

_Time_.--10 to 15 minutes. _Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.
6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

LIQUEUR JELLY.

1449. INGREDIENTS.--1 lb. of lump sugar, 2 oz. of isinglass, 1-1/2 pint
of water, the juice of 2 lemons, 1/4 pint of liqueur.

[Illustration: OVAL JELLY-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the sugar, with 1 pint of the water, into a stewpan, and
boil them gently by the side of the fire until there is no scum
remaining, which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises. Boil the
isinglass with the other 1/2 pint of water, and skim it carefully in the
same manner. Strain the lemon-juice, and add it, with the clarified
isinglass, to the syrup; put in the liqueur, and bring the whole to the
boiling-point. Let the saucepan remain covered by the side of the fire
for a few minutes; then pour the jelly through a bag, put it into a
mould, and set the mould in ice until required for table. Dip the mould
in hot water, wipe the outside, loosen the jelly by passing a knife
round the edges, and turn it out carefully on a dish. Noyeau,
Maraschino, Curacoa, brandy, or any kind of liqueur, answers for this
jelly; and, when made with isinglass, liqueur jellies are usually
prepared as directed above.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar and water.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

A SWEET DISH OF MACARONI.

1450. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of macaroni, 1-1/2 pint of milk, the rind of
1/2 lemon, 3 oz. of lump sugar, 3/4 pint of custard No. 1423.

_Mode_.--Put the milk into a saucepan, with the lemon-peel and sugar;
bring it to the boiling-point, drop in the macaroni, and let it
gradually swell over a gentle fire, but do not allow the pipes to break.
The form should be entirely preserved; and, though tender, should be
firm, and not soft, with no part beginning to melt. Should the milk dry
away before the macaroni is sufficiently swelled, add a little more.
Make a custard by recipe No. 1423; place the macaroni on a dish, and
pour the custard over the hot macaroni; grate over it a little nutmeg,
and, when cold, garnish the dish with slices of candied citron.

_Time_.--From 40 to 50 minutes to swell the macaroni.

_Average cost_, with the custard, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

MERINGUES.

1451. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of pounded sugar, the whites of 4 eggs.

[Illustration: MERINGUES.]

_Mode_.--Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and, with a
wooden spoon, stir in _quickly_ the pounded sugar; and have some boards
thick enough to put in the oven to prevent the bottom of the meringues
from acquiring too much colour. Cut some strips of paper about 2 inches
wide; place this paper on the board, and drop a tablespoonful at a time
of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let all the meringues be the
same size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of
an egg, and keep the meringues about 2 inches apart from each other on
the paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate
oven for 1/2 hour. As soon as they begin to colour, remove them from the
oven; take each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the
table, and, with a small spoon, take out the soft part of each meringue.
Spread some clean paper on the board, turn the meringues upside down,
and put them into the oven to harden and brown on the other side. When
required for table, fill them with whipped cream, flavoured with liqueur
or vanilla, and sweetened with pounded sugar. Join two of the meringues
together, and pile them high in the dish, as shown in the annexed
drawing. To vary their appearance, finely-chopped almonds or currants
may be strewn over them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may
be garnished with any bright-coloured preserve. Great expedition is
necessary in making this sweet dish; as, if the meringues are not put
into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are mixed, the former melts,
and the mixture would run on the paper, instead of keeping its
egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made, the crisper will they be;
but, if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most
likely be tough. They are sometimes coloured with cochineal; and, if
kept well covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six
weeks.

_Time_.--Altogether, about 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, with the cream and flavouring, 1s.

_Sufficient_ to make 2 dozen meringues. _Seasonable_ at any time.

NOYEAU CREAM.

1452. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 oz. of isinglass, the juice of 2 lemons,
noyeau and pounded sugar to taste, 1-1/2 pint of cream.

_Mode_.--Dissolve the isinglass in a little boiling water, add the
lemon-juice, and strain this to the cream, putting in sufficient noyeau
and sugar to flavour and sweeten the mixture nicely; whisk the cream
well, put it into an oiled mould, and set the mould in ice or in a cool
place; turn it out, and garnish the dish to taste.

_Time_.--Altogether, 1/2 hour.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint and the best isinglass, 4s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.

(_A very pretty dish_.)

1453. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of jelly, 1/2 pint of cream, 1 glass of
sherry, sugar to taste.

[Illustration: OPEN JELLY WITH WHIPPED CREAM.]

_Mode_.--Make the above proportion of calf's-feet or isinglass jelly,
colouring and flavouring it in any way that may be preferred; soak a
mould, open in the centre, for about 1/2 hour in cold water; fill it
with the jelly, and let it remain in a cool place until perfectly set;
then turn it out on a dish; fill the centre with whipped cream,
flavoured with sherry and sweetened with pounded sugar; pile this cream
high in the centre, and serve. The jelly should be made of rather a dark
colour, to contrast nicely with the cream.

_Time_.--3/4 hour. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill 1-1/2-pint mould. _Seasonable_ at any time.

ORANGE JELLY.

1454. INGREDIENTS.--1 pint of water, 1-1/2 to 2 oz. of isinglass, 1/2
lb. of loaf sugar, 1 Seville orange, 1 lemon, about 9 China oranges.

[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Put the water into a saucepan, with the isinglass, sugar, and
the rind of 1 orange, and the same of 1/2 lemon, and stir these over the
fire until the isinglass is dissolved, and remove the scum; then add to
this the juice of the Seville orange, the juice of the lemon, and
sufficient juice of China oranges to make in all 1 pint; from 8 to 10
oranges will yield the desired quantity. Stir all together over the fire
until it is just on the point of boiling; skim well; then strain the
jelly through a very fine sieve or jelly-bag, and when nearly cold, put
it into a mould previously wetted, and, when quite set, turn it out on a
dish, and garnish it to taste. To insure this jelly being clear, the
orange-and lemon-juice should be well strained, and the isinglass
clarified, before they are added to the other ingredients, and, to
heighten the colour, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be added.

_Time_.--5 minutes to boil without the juice; 1 minute after it is
added.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May.

ORANGE JELLY MOULDED WITH SLICES OF ORANGE.

1455. INGREDIENTS.--1-1/2 pint of orange jelly No. 1454, 4 oranges, 1
pint of clarified syrup.

_Mode_.--Boil 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar with 1/2 pint of water until there
is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it rises),
and carefully peel the oranges; divide them into thin slices, without
breaking the thin skin, and put these pieces of orange into the syrup,
where let them remain for about 5 minutes; then take them out, and use
the syrup for the jelly, which should be made by recipe No. 1454. When
the oranges are well drained, and the jelly is nearly cold, pour a
little of the latter into the bottom of the mould; then lay in a few
pieces of orange; over these pour a little jelly, and when this is set,
place another layer of oranges, proceeding in this manner until the
mould is full. Put it in ice, or in a cool place, and, before turning it
out, wrap a cloth round the mould for a minute or two, which has been
wrung out in boiling water.

_Time_.--5 minutes to simmer the oranges. _Average cost_, 3s. 6d.

_Sufficient_, with the slices of orange, to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

TO MAKE A PLAIN OMELET.

1456. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/3 saltspoonful of
pepper, 1/4 lb. of butter.

[Illustration: OMELET.]

_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3, and beat
them up with the salt and pepper until extremely light; then add 2 oz.
of the butter broken into small pieces, and stir this into the mixture.
Put the other 2 oz. of butter into a frying-pan, make it quite hot, and,
as soon as it begins to bubble, whisk the eggs, &c. very briskly for a
minute or two, and pour them into the pan; stir the omelet with a spoon
one way until the mixture thickens and becomes firm, and when the whole
is set, fold the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form;
and when it is nicely brown on one side, and quite firm, it is done. To
take off the rawness on the upper side, hold the pan before the fire for
a minute or two, and brown it with a salamander or hot shovel. Serve
very expeditiously on a very hot dish, and never cook it until it is
just wanted. The flavour of this omelet may be very much enhanced by
adding minced parsley, minced onion or eschalot, or grated cheese,
allowing 1 tablespoonful of the former, and half the quantity of the
latter, to the above proportion of eggs. Shrimps or oysters may also be
added: the latter should be scalded in their liquor, and then bearded
and cut into small pieces. In making an omelet, be particularly careful
that it is not too thin, and, to avoid this, do not make it in too large
a frying-pan, as the mixture would then spread too much, and taste of
the outside. It should also not be greasy, burnt, or too much done, and
should be cooked over a gentle fire, that the whole of the substance may
be heated without drying up the outside. Omelets are sometimes served
with gravy; but _this should never be poured over them_, but served in a
tureen, as the liquid causes the omelet to become heavy and flat,
instead of eating light and soft. In making the gravy, the flavour
should not overpower that of the omelet, and should be thickened with
arrowroot or rice flour.

_Time_.--With 6 eggs, in a frying-pan 18 or 20 inches round, 4 to 6
minutes. _Average cost_, 9d_.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

HAM OMELET (_A delicious Breakfast Dish_.)

1457. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 1/2 saltspoonful of pepper,
2 tablespoonfuls of minced ham.

_Mode_.--Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, and fry it for 2
minutes in a little butter; then make the batter for the omelet, stir in
the ham, and proceed as directed in recipe No. 1456. Do not add any salt
to the batter, as the ham is usually sufficiently salt to impart a
flavour to the omelet. Good lean bacon, or tongue, answers equally well
for this dish; but they must also be slightly cooked previously to
mixing them with the batter. Serve very hot and quickly, without gravy.

_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

KIDNEY OMELET (_A favourite French dish_.)

1458. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 saltspoonful of salt, 1/2 saltspoonful of
pepper, 2 sheep's kidneys, or 2 tablespoonfuls of minced veal kidney, 5
oz. of butter.

_Mode_.--Skin the kidneys, cut them into small dice, and toss them in a
frying-pan, in 1 oz. of butter, over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes. Mix
the ingredients for the omelet the same as in recipe No. 1456, and when
the eggs are well whisked, stir in the pieces of kidney. Make the butter
hot in the frying-pan, and when it bubbles, pour in the omelet, and fry
it over a gentle fire from 4 to 6 minutes. When the eggs are set, fold
the edges over, so that the omelet assumes an oval form, and be careful
that it is not too much done: to brown the top, hold the pan before the
fire for a minute or two, or use a salamander until the desired colour
is obtained, but never turn an omelet in the pan. Slip it carefully on
to a _very hot_ dish, or, what is a much safer method, put a dish on the
omelet, and turn the pan quickly over. It should be served the instant
it comes from the fire.

_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

TO MAKE A PLAIN SWEET OMELET.

1459. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 2 oz. of sifted sugar.

_Mode_.--Break the eggs into a basin, omitting the whites of 3; whisk
them well, adding the sugar and 2 oz. of the butter, which should be
broken into small pieces, and stir all these ingredients well together.
Make the remainder of the butter quite hot in a small frying-pan, and
when it commences to bubble, pour in the eggs, &c. Keep stirring them
until they begin to set; then turn the edges of the omelet over, to make
it an oval shape, and finish cooking it. To brown the top, hold the pan
before the fire, or use a salamander, and turn it carefully on to a
_very hot_ dish: sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve.

_Time_.--From 4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 10d._

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

OMELETTE AUX CONFITURES, or JAM OMELET.

1460. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 4 oz. of butter, 3 tablespoonfuls of
apricot, strawberry, or any jam that may be preferred.

_Mode_.--Make the omelet by recipe No. 1459, only instead of doubling it
over, leave it flat in the pan. When quite firm, and nicely brown on one
side, turn it carefully on to a hot dish, spread over the middle of it
the jam, and fold the omelet over on each side; sprinkle sifted sugar
over, and serve very quickly. A pretty dish of small omelets may be made
by dividing the batter into 3 or 4 portions, and frying them separately;
they should then be spread each one with a different kind of preserve,
and the omelets rolled over. Always sprinkle sweet omelets with sifted
sugar before being sent to table.

_Time_.--4 to 6 minutes. _Average cost_, 1s. 2d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

OMELETTE SOUFFLE.

1461. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 5 oz. of pounded sugar, flavouring of
vanilla, orange-flower water, or lemon-rind, 3 oz. of butter, 1
dessert-spoonful of rice-flour.

_Mode_.--Separate the yolks from the whites of the eggs, add to the
former the sugar, the rice-flour, and either of the above flavourings
that may be preferred, and stir these ingredients well together. Whip
the whites of the eggs, mix them lightly with the batter, and put the
butter into a small frying-pan. As soon as it begins to bubble, pour the
batter into it, and set the pan over a bright but gentle fire; and when
the omelet is set, turn the edges over to make it an oval shape, and
slip it on to a silver dish, which has been previously well buttered.
Put it in the oven, and bake from 12 to 15 minutes; sprinkle
finely-powdered sugar over the souffle, and _serve it immediately_.

_Time_.--About 4 minutes in the pan; to bake, from 12 to 15 minutes.

_Average cost_. 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons. _Seasonable_ at any time.

BACHELOR'S OMELET.

1462. INGREDIENTS.--2 or 3 eggs, 2 oz. of butter, 1 teaspoonful of
flour, 1/2 teacupful of milk.

_Mode_.--Make a thin cream of the flour and milk; then beat up the eggs,
mix all together, and add a pinch of salt and a few grains of cayenne.
Melt the butter in a small frying-pan, and, when very hot, pour in the
batter. Let the pan remain for a few minutes over a clear fire; then
sprinkle upon the omelet some chopped herbs and a few shreds of onion;
double the omelet dexterously, and shake it out of the pan on to a hot
dish. A simple sweet omelet can be made by the same process,
substituting sugar or preserve for the chopped herbs.

_Time_.--2 minutes.

_Average cost_, 6d.

_Sufficient_ for 2 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

ORANGE CREAM.

1463. INGREDIENTS.--1 oz. of isinglass, 6 large oranges, 1 lemon, sugar
to taste, water, 1/2 pint of good cream.

[Illustration: OPEN MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Squeeze the juice from the oranges and lemon; strain it, and
put it into a saucepan with the isinglass, and sufficient water to make
in all 1-1/2 pint. Rub the sugar on the orange and lemon-rind, add it to
the other ingredients, and boil all together for about 10 minutes.
Strain through a muslin bag, and, when cold, beat up with it 1/2 pint of
thick cream. Wet a mould, or soak it in cold water; pour in the cream,
and put it in a cool place to set. If the weather is very cold, 1 oz. of
isinglass will be found sufficient for the above proportion of
ingredients.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the juice and water.

_Average cost_, with the best isinglass, 3s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

ORANGE CREAMS.

1464. INGREDIENTS.--1 Seville orange, 1 tablespoonful of brandy, 1/4 lb.
of loaf sugar, the yolks of 4 eggs, 1 pint of cream.

_Mode_.--Boil the rind of the Seville orange until tender, and beat it
in a mortar to a pulp; add to it the brandy, the strained juice of the
orange, and the sugar, and beat all together for about 10 minutes,
adding the well-beaten yolks of eggs. Bring the cream to the
boiling-point, and pour it very gradually to the other ingredients, and
beat the mixture till nearly cold; put it into custard-cups, place the
cups in a deep dish of boiling water, where let them remain till quite
cold. Take the cups out of the water, wipe them, and garnish the tops of
the creams with candied orange-peel or preserved chips.

_Time_.--Altogether, 3/4 hour.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 1s. 7d.

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 creams.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

_Note_.--To render this dish more economical, substitute milk for the
cream, but add a small pinch of isinglass to make the creams firm.

SEVILLE ORANGE (_Citrus vulgaris_).--This variety, called also
_bitter orange_, is of the same species as the sweet orange, and
grows in great abundance on the banks of the Guadalquiver, in
Andalusia, whence this fruit is chiefly obtained. In that part
of Spain there are very extensive orchards of these oranges,
which form the chief wealth of the monasteries. The pulp of the
bitter orange is not eaten raw. In the yellow rind, separated
from the white spongy substance immediately below it, is
contained an essential oil, which is an agreeable warm aromatic,
much superior for many purposes to that of the common orange.
The best marmalade and the richest wine are made from this
orange; and from its flowers the best orange-flower water is
distilled. Seville oranges are also preserved whole as a
sweetmeat.

ORANGE FRITTERS.

1465. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter, 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,
1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk, oranges, hot lard or clarified
dripping.

_Mode_.--Make a nice light batter with the above proportion of flour,
butter, salt, eggs, and sufficient milk to make it the proper
consistency; peel the oranges, remove as much of the white skin as
possible, and divide each orange into eight pieces, without breaking the
thin skin, unless it be to remove the pips; dip each piece of orange in
the batter. Have ready a pan of boiling lard or clarified dripping; drop
in the oranges, and fry them a delicate brown from 8 to 10 minutes. When
done, lay them on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire, to drain
away the greasy moisture, and dish them on a white d'oyley; sprinkle
over them plenty of pounded sugar, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters; 5 minutes to drain them.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ from November to May.

A PRETTY DISH OF ORANGES.

1466. INGREDIENTS.--6 large oranges, 1/2 lb. of loaf sugar, 1/4 pint of
water, 1/2 pint of cream, 2 tablespoonfuls of any kind of liqueur, sugar
to taste.

_Mode_.--Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and boil them until
the sugar becomes brittle, which may be ascertained by taking up a small
quantity in a spoon, and dipping it in cold water; if the sugar is
sufficiently boiled, it will easily snap. Peel the oranges, remove as
much of the white pith as possible, and divide them into nice-sized
slices, without breaking the thin white skin which surrounds the juicy
pulp. Place the pieces of orange on small skewers, dip them into the hot
sugar, and arrange them in layers round a plain mould, which should be
well oiled with the purest salad-oil. The sides of the mould only should
be lined with the oranges, and the centre left open for the cream. Let
the sugar become firm by cooling; turn the oranges carefully out on a
dish, and fill the centre with whipped cream, flavoured with any kind of
liqueur, and sweetened with pounded sugar. This is an exceedingly
ornamental and nice dish for the supper-table.

_Time_.--10 minutes to boil the sugar. _Average cost_, 1s. 8d.

_Sufficient_ for 1 mould. _Seasonable_ from November to May.

TO MAKE PANCAKES.

1467. INGREDIENTS.--Eggs, flour, milk; to every egg allow 1 oz. of
flour, about 1 gill of milk, 1/8 saltspoonful of salt.

[Illustration: PANCAKES.]

_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are fresh; break each one separately in
a cup; whisk them well, put them into a basin, with the flour, salt, and
a few drops of milk, and beat the whole to a perfectly _smooth_ batter;
then add by degrees the remainder of the milk. The proportion of this
latter ingredient must be regulated by the size of the eggs, &c. &c.;
but the batter, when ready for frying, should be of the consistency of
thick cream. Place a small frying-pan on the fire to get hot; let it be
delicately clean, or the pancakes will stick, and, when quite hot, put
into it a small piece of butter, allowing about 1/2 oz. to each pancake.
When it is melted, pour in the batter, about 1/2 teacupful to a pan 5
inches in diameter, and fry it for about 4 minutes, or until it is
nicely brown on one side. By only pouring in a small quantity of batter,
and so making the pancakes thin, the necessity of turning them (an
operation rather difficult to unskilful cooks) is obviated. When the
pancake is done, sprinkle over it some pounded sugar, roll it up in the
pan, and take it out with a large slice, and place it on a dish before
the fire. Proceed in this manner until sufficient are cooked for a dish;
then send them quickly to table, and continue to send in a further
quantity, as pancakes are never good unless eaten almost immediately
they come from the frying-pan. The batter may be flavoured with a little
grated lemon-rind, or the pancakes may have preserve rolled in them
instead of sugar. Send sifted sugar and a cut lemon to table with them.
To render the pancakes very light, the yolks and whites of the eggs
should be beaten separately, and the whites added the last thing to the
batter before frying.

_Time_.--from 4 to 6 minutes for a pancake that does not require
turning; from 6 to 8 minutes for a thicker one.

_Average cost_, for 3 persons, 6d.

_Sufficient._--Allow 3 eggs, with the other ingredients in proportion,
for 3 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.

RICHER PANCAKES.

1468. INGREDIENTS.--6 eggs, 1 pint of cream, 1/4 lb. of loaf sugar, 1
glass of sherry, 1/2 teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, flour.

_Mode_.--Ascertain that the eggs are extremely fresh, beat them well,
strain and mix with them the cream, pounded sugar, wine, nutmeg, and as
much flour as will make the batter nearly as thick as that for ordinary
pancakes. Make the frying-pan hot, wipe it with a clean cloth, pour in
sufficient batter to make a thin pancake, and fry it for about 5
minutes. Dish the pancakes piled one above the other, strew sifted sugar
between each, and serve.

_Time_.--About 5 minutes.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, 2s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ to make 8 pancakes.

_Seasonable_ at any time, but specially served on Shrove Tuesday.

PEACH FRITTERS.

1469. INGREDIENTS.--For the batter: 1/2 lb. of flour, 1/2 oz. of butter,
1/2 saltspoonful of salt, 2 eggs, milk;--peaches, hot lard or clarified
dripping.

_Mode_.--Make a nice smooth, batter in the same manner as directed in
recipe No. 1393, and skin, halve, and stone the peaches, which should be
quite ripe; dip them in the batter, and fry the pieces in hot lard or
clarified dripping, which should be brought to the boiling-point before
the peaches are put in. From 8 to 10 minutes will be required to fry
them, and, when done, drain them before the fire, and dish them on a
white d'oyley. Strew over plenty of pounded sugar, and serve.

_Time_.--From 8 to 10 minutes to fry the fritters, 6 minutes to drain
them.

_Average cost_, 1s.

_Sufficient_ for 4 or 5 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July, August, and September.

[Illustration: PEACH.]

PEACH.--The peach and nectarine are amongst the most delicious
of our fruits, and are considered as varieties of the same
species produced by cultivation. The former is characterized by
a very delicate down, while the latter is smooth; but, as a
proof of their identity as to species, trees have borne peaches
in one part and nectarines in another; and even a single fruit
has had down on one side and the other smooth. The trees are
almost exactly alike, as well as the blossoms. Pliny states that
the peach was originally brought from Persia, where it grows
naturally, from which the name of Persica was bestowed upon it
by the Romans; and some modern botanists apply this as the
generic name, separating them from _Amygdalus_, or Almond, to
which Linnaeus had united them. Although they are not tropical,
they require a great deal of warmth to bring them to perfection:
hence they seldom ripen in this country, in ordinary seasons,
without the use of walls or glass; consequently, they bear a
high price. In a good peach, the flesh is firm, the skin thin,
of a deep bright colour next the sun and of a yellowish green
next to the wall; the pulp is yellowish, full of
highly-flavoured juice, the fleshy part thick, and the stone
small. Too much down is a sign of inferior quality. This fruit
is much used at the dessert, and makes a delicious preserve.

PEARS A L'ALLEMANDE.

1470. INGREDIENTS.--6 to 8 pears, water, sugar, 2 oz. of butter, the
yolk of an egg, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.

_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into any form that may be preferred, and
steep them in cold water to prevent them turning black; put them into a
saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover them, and boil them with
the butter and enough sugar to sweeten them nicely, until tender; then
brush the pears over with the yolk of an egg, sprinkle them with sifted
sugar, and arrange them on a dish. Add the gelatine to the syrup, boil
it up quickly for about 5 minutes, strain it over the pears, and let it
remain until set. The syrup may be coloured with a little prepared
cochineal, which would very much improve the appearance of the dish.

_Time_.--From 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to stew the pears; 5 minutes to
boil the syrup.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for a large dish.

_Seasonable_ from August to February.

MOULDED PEARS.

1471. INGREDIENTS.--4 large pears or 6 small ones, 8 cloves, sugar to
taste, water, a small piece of cinnamon, 1/4 pint of raisin wine, a
strip of lemon-peel, the juice of 1/2 lemon, 1/2 oz. of gelatine.

_Mode_.--Peel and cut the pears into quarters; put them into a jar with
3/4 pint of water, cloves, cinnamon, and sufficient sugar to sweeten the
whole nicely; cover down the top of the jar, and bake the pears in a
gentle oven until perfectly tender, but do not allow them to break. When
done, lay the pears in a plain mould, which should be well wetted, and
boil 1/2 pint of the liquor the pears were baked in with the wine,
lemon-peel, strained juice, and gelatine. Let these ingredients boil
quickly for 5 minutes, then strain the liquid warm over the pears; put
the mould in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, turn it out on a
glass dish.

_Time_.--2 hours to bake the pears in a cool oven.

_Average cost_, 1s. 3d.

_Sufficient_ for a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ from August to February

PINEAPPLE FRITTERS.

(_An elegant Dish_.)

1472. INGREDIENTS.--A small pineapple, a small wineglassful of brandy or
liqueur, 2 oz. of sifted sugar; batter as for apple fritters No. 1393.

_Mode_.--This elegant dish, although it may appear extravagant, is
really not so if made when pineapples are plentiful. We receive them now
in such large quantities from the West Indies, that at times they may be
purchased at an exceedingly low rate: it would not, of course, be
economical to use the pines which are grown in our English pineries for
the purposes of fritters. Pare the pine with as little waste as
possible, cut it into rather thin slices, and soak these slices in the
above proportion of brandy or liqueur and pounded sugar for 4 hours;
then make a batter the same as for apple fritters, substituting cream
for the milk, and using a smaller quantity of flour; and, when this is
ready, dip in the pieces of pine, and fry them in boiling lard from 5 to
8 minutes; turn them when sufficiently brown on one side, and, when
done, drain them from the lard before the fire, dish them on a white
d'oyley, strew over them sifted sugar, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--5 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, when cheap and plentiful, 1s. 6d. for the pine.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ in July and August.

PINEAPPLE.--The pineapple has not been known in Europe above two
hundred years, and has not been cultivated in England much above
a century. It is stated that the first pineapples raised in
Europe were by M. La Cour, of Leyden, about the middle of the
17th century; and it is said to have been first cultivated in
England by Sir Matthew Decker, of Richmond. In Kensington
Palace, there is a picture in which Charles II. is represented
as receiving a pineapple from his gardener Rose, who is
presenting it on his knees.

PLAIN FRITTERS.

1473. INGREDIENTS.--3 oz. of flour, 3 eggs, 1/3 pint of milk.

[Illustration: STAR FRITTER-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Mix the flour to a smooth batter with a small quantity of the
milk; stir in the eggs, which should be well whisked, and then the
remainder of the milk; boat the whole to a perfectly smooth batter, and
should it be found not quite thin enough, add two or three
tablespoonfuls more milk. Have ready a frying-pan, with plenty of
boiling lard in it; drop in rather more than a tablespoonful at a time
of the batter, and fry the fritters a nice brown, turning them when
sufficiently cooked on one side. Drain them well from the greasy
moisture by placing them upon a piece of blotting-paper before the
fire; dish them on a white d'oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and
send to table with them a cut lemon and plenty of pounded sugar.

_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 4d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

POTATO FRITTERS.

1474. INGREDIENTS.--2 large potatoes, 4 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream,
2 ditto of raisin or sweet wine, 1 dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, 4
teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, hot lard.

[Illustration: SCROLL FRITTER-MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Boil the potatoes, and beat them up lightly with a fork, but do
not use a spoon, as that would make them heavy. Beat the eggs well,
leaving out one of the whites; add the other ingredients, and beat all
together for at least 20 minutes, or until the batter is extremely
light. Put plenty of good lard into a frying-pan, and drop a
tablespoonful of the batter at a time into it, and fry the fritters a
nice brown. Serve them with the following sauce:--A glass of sherry
mixed with the strained juice of a lemon, and sufficient white sugar to
sweeten the whole nicely. Warm these ingredients, and serve the sauce
separately in a tureen. The fritters should be neatly dished on a white
d'oyley, and pounded sugar sprinkled over them; and they should be well
drained on a piece of blotting-paper before the fire previously to being
dished.

_Time_.--From 6 to 8 minutes.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ for 3 or 4 persons.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

RASPBERRY CREAM.

1475. INGREDIENTS.--3/4 pint of milk, 3/4 pint of cream, 1-1/2 oz. of
isinglass, raspberry jelly, sugar to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of brandy.

[Illustration: RASPBERRY CREAM MOULD.]

_Mode_.--Boil the milk, cream, and isinglass together for 1/4 hour, or
until the latter is melted, and strain it through a hair sieve into a
basin. Let it cool a little; then add to it sufficient raspberry jelly,
which, when melted, would make 1/3 pint, and stir well till the
ingredients are thoroughly mixed. If not sufficiently sweet, add a
little pounded sugar with the brandy; whisk the mixture well until
nearly cold, put it into a well-oiled mould, and set it in a cool place
till perfectly set. Raspberry jam may be substituted for the jelly, but
must be melted, and rubbed through a sieve, to free it from seeds: in
summer, the juice of the fresh fruit may be used, by slightly mashing it
with a wooden spoon, and sprinkling sugar over it; the juice that flows
from the fruit should then be used for mixing with the cream. If the
colour should not be very good, a few drops of prepared cochineal may be
added to improve its appearance. (_See_ coloured plate T1.)

_Time_.--1/4 hour to boil the cream and isinglass.

_Average cost_, with cream at 1s. per pint, and the best isinglass, 3s.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_, with jelly, at any time.

_Note_.--Strawberry cream may be made in precisely the same manner,
substituting strawberry jam or jelly for the raspberry.

RICE BLANCMANGE.

1476. INGREDIENTS.--1/4 lb. of ground rice, 3 oz. of loaf sugar, 1 oz.
of fresh butter, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of lemon-peel, essence of
almonds or vanilla, or laurel-leaves.

_Mode_.--Mix the rice to a smooth batter with about 1/2 pint of the
milk, and the remainder put into a saucepan, with the sugar, butter, and
whichever of the above flavourings may be preferred; bring the milk to
the boiling-point, quickly stir in the rice, and let it boil for about
10 minutes, or until it comes easily away from the saucepan, keeping it
well stirred the whole time. Grease a mould with pure salad-oil; pour in
the rice, and let it get perfectly set, when it should turn out quite
easily; garnish it with jam, or pour round a compote of any kind of
fruit, just before it is sent to table. This blancmange is better for
being made the day before it is wanted, as it then has time to become
firm. If laurel-leaves are used for flavouring, steep 3 of them in the
milk, and take them out before the rice is added: about 8 drops of
essence of almonds, or from 12 to 16 drops of essence of vanilla, would
be required to flavour the above proportion of milk.

_Time_.--From 10 to 15 minutes to boil the rice.

_Average cost_, 9d.

_Sufficient_ to fill a quart mould.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

RICE CROQUETTES.

1477. INGREDIENTS.--1/2 lb. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 6 oz. of pounded
sugar, flavouring of vanilla, lemon-peel, or bitter almonds, egg and
bread crumbs, hot lard.

_Mode_.--Put the rice, milk, and sugar into a saucepan, and let the
former gradually swell over a gentle fire until all the milk is dried
up; and just before the rice is done, stir in a few drops of essence of
any of the above flavourings. Let the rice get cold; then form it into
small round balls, dip them into yolk of egg, sprinkle them with bread
crumbs, and fry them in boiling lard for about 10 minutes, turning them
about, that they may get equally browned. Drain the greasy moisture from
them, by placing them on a cloth in front of the fire for a minute or
two; pile them on a white d'oyley, and send them quickly to table. A
small piece of jam is sometimes introduced into the middle of each
croquette, which adds very much to the flavour of this favourite dish.

_Time_.--From 3/4 to 1 hour to swell the rice; about 10 minutes to fry
the croquettes.

_Average cost_, 10d.

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 croquettes.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

RICE FRITTERS.

1478. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, 3 oz. of sugar, 1
oz. of fresh butter 6 oz. of orange marmalade, 4 eggs.

_Mode_.--Swell the rice in the milk, with the sugar and butter, over a
slow fire until it is perfectly tender, which will be in about 3/4 hour.
When the rice is done, strain away the milk, should there be any left,
and mix with it the marmalade and well-beaten eggs; stir the whole over
the fire until the eggs are set; then spread the mixture on a dish to
the thickness of about 1/2 inch, or rather thicker. When it is perfectly
cold, cut it into long strips, dip them in a batter the same as for
apple fritters, and fry them a nice brown. Dish them on a white d'oyley,
strew sifted sugar over, and serve quickly.

_Time_.--About 3/4 hour to swell the rice; from 7 to 10 minutes to fry
the fritters.

_Average cost_, 1s. 6d.

_Sufficient_ to make 7 or 8 fritters.

_Seasonable_ at any time.

RICE SNOWBALLS. (_A pretty dish for Juvenile Suppers_.)

1479. INGREDIENTS.--6 oz. of rice, 1 quart of milk, flavouring of
essence of almonds, sugar to taste, 1 pint of custard made by recipe No.
1423.

_Mode_.--Boil the rice in the milk, with sugar and a flavouring of
essence of almonds, until the former is tender, adding, if necessary, a
little more milk, should it dry away too much. When the rice is quite

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