Part 5 out of 9
Classicks authors 50s.; to Schovo for a moneths dancing ii. _ll_.; 3_ll_.
10s. for a pair of shoes; 3_ll_. for sundry washings.
About the 28 of July I receaved some 56_ll_. in 10 golden crounes. Out
of which I have payed for Lucians Dialogues, le Tresor de St. Denis,
Bodinus de specibus Rerum publicarum, Essex's instructions for a Traveller;
24s. for Oudins Italian Grammer; 5_ll_. for Index expurgatorius; 10s. for
exames des esprits in 2 volumes; 30s. for Brerevood of sundry religions;
20s. for a Enchiridion Physicae restitutae for Mr. Fullerton; 20s. for a
book of fortifications, not the Jesuit Fornevers; 3_ll_. for 6 carts, 70
for 3_ll_. 10s. I had payed for 4 volumes of Thou 40s.; heir again for
other 4 I pay 60s.; for Scuderies discours de Rois 15s.; Itinerarium
Hollandicum 15s.; 4_ll_. on a collation to Captaine Rutherford, etc.; 16s.
for my breakfast wt Mr. Samuel Fullerton coming from the bastile; a white
croune and a croune of gold... 30s. for washing; 14s. at collation wt
that Englishman Mr. Waren, his addresse in London was Towards Street, at
Mr. Carbonells; 20s. lost playing under the hats; for Mr. Morus his poeme a
croune; for a new testament a croune; for the State of France and of
Germany, in 4 volumes 5_ll_.; to Mr. Fullerton for his Botero a golden
croune; for a purse at the faire of St. Laurens 20s., and that out of 10
crounes borrowed from Mr. Kinloch, 12 of August; 2 crounes given in drink
monie; 8s. on fancies for the children; 21s. on a collation wt William
Paterson; 7_ll_. for a trunck valise.
 This gives the value of the _ecu d'or_ at 5_ll_. 10s.
See Introduction, p. xliii.
 A few words erased.
 Bolero, Giovanni, author of several treatises of political
philosophy and history towards the close of the sixteenth century,
some translated into English.
Then to do my voyage a 100_ll_.; 38 given for my place in the coach to
bruxells; for my diner at Louure 25s.; supper at Senlis 16s.; diner at Pons
16s.; supper at Conwilly 24s.; diner at Marchele peau 10s.; supper at
Peronne 18s.; supper at Cambray 28s.; diner at Valenciennes 24s.; super at
Kivray 20s.; diner at Mons 24s.; super at Bremen 24s.; diner at Hall 24s.;
to the cocher 24s.; to our escort 7_ll_.
At Bruxelles, for taking of my beard 9s.; for seing the Palais 40s.; for 6
dayes to my hostesse 10_ll_.; for my horse to Enguien 3_ll_.; for my diet
their 3_ll_.; for washing, also for mending my shoes, 30s.; for my place in
the bark of Anvers 20s.; for carrieng my things ther 12s.; for the removing
them from bark to bark 18s.; for my diner their 33s.; for seing the
citadelle of Anvers, wt some other smaller things, 18s. Thus goes the
NOTES OF JOURNEYS IN LONDON, OXFORD, AND SCOTLAND, 1667-1672
AND OTHER PAPERS
NOTES OF JOURNEYS IN ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND, 1667-1670.
A CONTINUATION OF SOME TRAVELLS. Sie 2 volumes in 4'to relating to the
same subject _alibi_.
The peace was proclaimed at Camphire the 3 of September, stylo
novo, 1667, as also at Flusing: at Middleburg not til the 5, because their
market day: their feu's de joy ware on the 7.
 The Peace of Breda between Charles II. and the United Provinces
was signed on 31st July, but the ratifications were not exchanged
for some weeks.
 Campvere, now Vere, a town in the island of Walcheren. Tervere
(Der Vere) is the same place.
I left Tervere the 5't, came to Flessinque; wheir we lay by reason of
contrary winds til the 12, on which morning it was at south south east. Our
skiper, a honest fellow, was called Tunis Van Eck. Coming out without the
head, whither by the wind or negligence of the marinels I know not, we
dasht upon it which strake a lake in our ship wery neir my arme long. All
ware wery afraided of drouning; only being neir the toune, a carpenter, a
most lusty fellow, came and stoopt it wery weill; wheirupon we followed the
rest and overtook them ere night, at which tyme the wind turned contrary
upon us to south west, so that the 15 day at night being Thursday we was
come but a litle abone Gravesend; wheirupon I advised Mr. Chiesly that we
should hive of the first boat should come aboard of us to carry us
that night to London, which we did, and arrived ther tho late. Lay at the
Black Bull in Bischopgate Street. Nixt day took a chamber in New Street
neir Covent Garden at halfe a croune the week. Went to the Court, wher
afterwards I fand Mr. Sandilands, Mr. Wallace, Mr. Lauder, C. Rutherfurd
and a brother of his, Mr. John Chrichton, who was then with my Lord
Drummond, Mr. Claude, etc., Henry Hamilton, who was win in to the Kings
garde, P. Wans, Mr. Metellan, Mr. Don, Mr. Kirkwood, Mr. Ker my Lord
Yesters man, D. Burnet, Mr. Johnston, etc.; kissed my Lord Lauderdales,
Yesters, and the Provests hands; saw Sir William Thomsone, Collonel
Bortwick, etc. Mr. Smith who was Mr. Simpsones man came over from Holland.
 Headland, or point.
 Off, so spelt usually by Lauder.
Having stayed a fourtnight in New Street I came to my aunts, M'ris
Inglishes, house, wheir having stayed some 8 dayes, I took place in the
coach for Oxford the last of September, being a Monday, at Snowhil neir
Hoburne. Payed 10 shillings. Oxford is 47 miles from London. Saw Tyburne,
under which layes the body of Cromwel, Ireton, and some others; saw that
post to which they rode that would have any who ware hanged. I saw also the
Chancellors house, Dunkirke or Portugall, directly against S't James,
a very magnificent building with a great park adjacent.
 I have found no particulars about this lady.
 Clarendon House, built by Lord Chancellor Hyde, was on the
north side of Piccadilly, facing St. James's Palace. It was called
by the populace Dunkirk, suggesting that Clarendon had got money
from the Dutch for the sale of Dunkirk, and Tangier, the dowry of
the Portuguese princess, Catherine of Braganza, for his share in
her marriage to the king, which was barren. See _Pepys's Diary_,
14 June 1667. A gibbet was set up before the gate 'and these three
words written, three sights to be seen: Dunkirke, Tangier, and a
Nixt we came to Oxbridge, a toune 15 miles from London, wheir was
their fair of rattles and other toyes for children. Their was also a market
of horse and of cattell, for the most part come out of Wales. 7 miles
further is Beconsfields, a village wheir we lay all night at King Charles
his head. The host is a Scotsman called Hume; was made prisoner at
Worcester. We was their but that merchands wife that was going to sie
hir child at Abinton (wheir is a braue market cross), M'r Lo, professor of
Musick in Oxford, and I; the other 3 women ware at the Swan. Supper and
breakfast stood me 4 shillings.
 Now Uxbridge.
 'We was there but,' _i.e._ There were at our inn only.
Nixt morning being the 1 of October we came to East Wickam, a very
pretty toune; then to West Wickam, being 5 miles; then to Stockam Church, 3
long miles; heir we walked doune a steep hil; then came to Whately;
nixt to Oxford, the whole journey 25 miles. I lodged at the Miter, a wery
civill house. Calling at Exeter Colledge for Mr. Ackland, to whom I had a
letter from Mr. Sprage at Leide, I found he was gone unto his oune
country of Devonshire.
 Now High Wycombe.
 Now Wheatley.
Nixt morning I went and visited the booksellers shops. At last lighted upon
on almost forgainst Oriel Colledge at the back of Christs Church
['called him Mr. Daves'], who had a most rich and weill furnished shop
worth all the rest. Their I found the Heroe of Lorenzo and Arrianus, also
Tyraeus _de apparitioni_. _et demoniacis_. He had lately sold a Lesly.
 One, as usual.
 Contracted for _appartionibus_.
After diner came Mr. Lo to me with a young gentleman who stayed at his
house. He took me first thorough Lincolne, Exeter, and Jesus Colledges,
then to their publick schooles, a magnificent building, wheir for all the
arts and sciences their is a scool.
Heir also is that library so famous, and undoubtedly the greatest of the
World, the Vatican excepted, and that but of late since the augmentation it
got by that of Heidleberg. The forme of it is the rarest thing heir be the
incredible multitude of manuscripts never printed which they have gathered
togither with a world of paines and expence, and gifted to the University.
As their is their the gift of Archbischop Laud consisting of a multitude
(vid. 2400) of manuscripts in all languages, as weill Eastern as Western.
Their be all Sir Kenelme Digbies books, togither with Seldens, about which
their ware a controversy in law. In his last will he gifted his books to
the University, wheiron it was demanded whither Cambridge or Oxford was
meant. Oxford carried it first because he was an alumnus of this
University; nixt, because sundry tymes in his life tyme he had told some
friends that he would leive them to Oxford. All the lower are chained; none
can have the permission to read till he hath given an oath to the
Bibliothecarius that first he shall be faithful to the Universitie; nixt,
that he shall restore what books he receaves and that intier not torn. The
papists gave occasion to this who under the praetext of reading maliciously
tore out any thing that they judged nervously to conclude against
themselfes: otherwise its disadvantageous to strangers who come but for a
short tyme and have the curiosity to sie a book. They have a Catalogue,
not, as others, _ordine alphabetico_, but according to the order they ware
gifted in: if it was money left then their be the names of the books bought
theirwith. Their are the maniest Theologicall books of all other, a great
many in both law, _Corpus Glossatum,--Tractatus Tractatuum_ Venetiis 1584,
_Vasquius_ 2 tomes, etc.
Of one of the ends of the Library goes up a pair of stairs unto a very
fair and spatious gallery whither the students retire to refreshe
themselfes with walking after reading.
 Off, as usual.
The walls are all hung with pictures of the most famous men both of their
oune country and abroad, as weell moderne as ancient. Mr. Digby is drawen
lik a old philosopher. The roof is al painted alongs with the armes of the
University, wheir most artificially and couched up in sundry faschions
the name of him who built the gallery, Thomas Bodley. I saw a great many
pretty medals wheirof they had 2 presses full. Their be also J. Caesars
portrait brought from Rome by a gentleman.
 Couched up, disposed, laid on (like embroidery). See Murray's
_New English Dict._, s.v.
A litle below the Library is the Anatomy house, not altogither so weill
furnished as that of Leiden: sundry anatomies of men, women, children, and
embryoes. On man hes a great musket shot just in his breast, yet he did not
dy of it but afterwards was hanged; a mans skin tanned sewed on straw,
seimes like a naked man; the taille of an Indian cow, its white, wery long,
at least in a dozen of sundry peices; the skines of some hideous serpents
and crocodils brought from America and Nilus; a mans scull with 4 litle
hornes in its front, they ware within the skin while he was alive; another
cranium all covered over with fog which they told me was of great use in
medicine; sea horses or sharpes skins; a Indian kings croune made of a
great sort of straw, deckt all with curious feathers to us (some being
naturally red, some grein, etc.) tho not to them--they despise gold because
they have it in abundance; a ring intier put in thorow a 4 nooked peice of
wood, and we cannot tell whow; a stone as big as my hand, folded, taken out
of a mans bladder, another lesse taken out of ones kidneyes. We saw that
the crocodile moved only his upper jaw.
 Sharpe, so written, query sharks.
From this we went to a house wheir we drank aromatik, then to New Colledge,
a great building. In the tyme of the plague the king lodged in the on syde
and forrein embassadors on the other. They wer the French for gifting them
a poringer worth 5 pound; but it was just at the tyme his Master declared
war against England so that he went away in a fougue. Went up to their
hall, a pretty roome. Above the chimly is the Bischop that founded it;
under him stands other 2 that ware each of this foundation, afterwards
Bischops; and each of them built a Colledge, n, Marlan and Lincolne.
Saw the Chappel, the richest of Oxford; brave orgues, excellent
pictures, one of the resurrection, done by Angelo the Italian, just above
 Rage. The sentence is obscure. Apparently the French ambassador
intended to present the college where he was entertained with a
piece of plate, when a rupture between the sovereigns occurred.
 Merton, distinctly Marlan in MS. He had written it by the ear.
Apparently it was pronounced Marton. Merton was founded before New
 Organs. Just back from France, Lauder uses the French words
_fougue_ and _orgue_.
From this we went to Christs Church, the greatest and richest Colledge of
them all, founded by Henry the 8't, or rather Cardinal Wolsie, who had wast
designes had they not bein chookt. Their belonged to this Colledge by his
gift lands thorough all England so that the students ['fellows'] ware
as good as Lairds. The King took this from them and gave them pensions for
it. Heir I went in to the Chappel with Mr. Lo, who is their organist, and
hard their evening prayers, not unlike the Popish: saw the Bischop of
Oxford and Vice Chancelor (for Hyde is Chancelor) of the University.
By the means of that young student Mr. Lo recommended to me saw their
Library, considerable for a private one. They have all the Counsels in 6
brave gilded tomes. They have a flint stone wery big in the one syde
wheirof ye sie your face but it magnifies; a great stone congealed of
water, another of wood.
From that he led me to their kitchin; wheir ware 3 spits full of meat
rosting (sometymes they have 7 when the Colledge is full). Then he took me
up to the dining hall, a large roome with a great many tables all covered
with clean napry. Heir we stayed a while; then the butler did come, from
whom he got a flaggon of beir, some bread, apple tarts and fleck pies,
with which he entertained me wery courteously. Then came in a great many
students, some calling for on thing and some for another. Their are a 102
students in this Colledge besydes Canons and others.
 Suet puddings.--Murray's _New English Dict._
At the back of Christs Colledge is Oriel Colledge. Its a great building
built by King Edward the 2'd, even when Ballioll was built. Above the inner
gate stands King Charles the I. on horseback; then towards the broad street
is the University Colledge, the oldest of all thesse in Oxford, founded by
Alfred, a Saxon King, and long efterwards repaired, or rather erected (for
the first buildings be like to fall about ones ears), by Percy of
Northumberland. Over forgainst it is All Souls, wheir is a pretty chappell
with a rare picture of the resurrection.
From that to Queans Colledge, built long ago by on of their queans. Whiles
they ware a laying the foundation they found a great horne (they know not
weill of what beast), which since they have enchassed in silver and propine
to strangers to drink out of. Their chappell is remarkable for its windows;
in them ye have represented all the actions of our Saviour from his birth
to his aschension.
I saw Brazennose Colledge and Marlan Colledge, also Balliols Colledge,
which is not so pittiful and contemptible as many would have it. Before the
utter gate is a pretty pallisade of tries. Within the building is
tolerable; in their dining roome be battered up Theses Moral,
political, and out of all the others sciences. Nixt to it be Trinity
Colledge. It hath 2 courtes: the inner is a new building. Not far from this
are they building the stately Theater of cut stone for their Comoedyes.
 See p. 171, note 3.
Nixt day I went to the Physick Garden not far from Marlan Colledge. The
gardener (a German by nation) gave me their printed Catalogue of all the
hearbs, which may be about some 7000 in all. I have also some verses he
gave me made on thesse 2 fellows thats keips centry, as it were, just as ye
come in at the garden door; their menacing face is of timber; all the rest
with their speir is artificially cut out of bush. They have also swans and
such lik curiously cut out of the phileria. I saw the sensitive plant; it
shrinked at my touching it, tho it was then excessively cold. Saw the
tobacco: of the leives dryed they make it as good as that they bring from
Spain, Virginia, Martinigo or elsewheir, if they had enough of it, and the
entertaining of it ware not to costly; hence the Parliament discharges the
planting of it. Saw African Marigolds, the true Aloes trie; all the wals
cloathed with wery big clusters; tall cypruses, Indian figs, etc. The
students can enter when they please.
On the Thursday 3 of October at night went and took my leive of Mr. Lo.
Nixt morning having payed my host 5 shillings in all (which made me admir
the cheapnesse of the place, fire only being dear since the Kings army was
their, who cutted all its woods about) about 10 a cloak bad adieu to Oxford
watered with the lovely Thames tho wery litle their; it receives at that
place the Isis whence Thamesis.
In the coach was D. Willis his cheif man, a pretty physitician himselfe,
going in to his Master, whom the Quean had caused come to London; a
apothecary who also sold all kinds of garden seeds, and for that effect had
bein at Oxford, P. Nicoll had oftnen traffiqued with him; a goldsmith's
son in the Strand and his sister, and an old crabbed gentlewoman, tho she
seimed to be of quality.
When we walked up the hill at Stockam Church he showed me a number of
pretty hearbs growing by the hedges syde. He confessed to me that tho they
had a verie glorious utsyde, yet if we would consider the forme of their
teaching and studieing it was werie defective comparatively to the oversea
Universities. Their publick lessons are not much worth: if a student who is
immatriculat in some on Colledge or other be desirous to be informed in any
science, let it be Philosophie, Medicine or another, then he most apply
himselfe to some fellow of that Colledge, who teaches him for a salarie;
otherwise a student neids never make use of a master but if he please.
Theologie is the only thing that flourishes their.
Came back the same way to London the 5 of October, being Saturday. Nixt day
came Haddow and Bonnymoon to toune. Many a tyme hes he and I wisited
Litle Brittain. We went throw Bedlam (I was in it and saw thosse poor
peaple), then to Moore fields, wheir is a new street wheirin dwells thosse
that ware burnt out in the fire. They pay wery dear for their ground and it
is but to stand til they rebuild their houses again in the city. Then throw
Long lane wheir is their fripperie; besydes it their is a hospitall for
sick persons; then Smithfield East and West. I had almost forgot Aldergate
Street, on of the nicest now in London, ye shall ever find mercats their;
then we go thorow the Moon taverne. To the west of Smithfield is Snowhill,
wheir the coach for Oxford is; then ye come to Hoburn bridge, a very filthy
place, the street is large and long. In it is St. Andrews church wheir I
went and heard Mr. Stellingfleet; the coach for York is at the Black swan
their; above it ye come in to Lincolnes Innes Fields, a brave place weill
built round about, much like the Place Royall at Paris. Heir lodged my Lord
Middleton, heir is the Dukes playhouse, wheir we saw Tom Sydserfes Spanish
Comedie Tarugo'es Wiles, or the Coffee House, acted. In the pit they
payed 30 p., in our place 18s. He could not forget himselfe: was very
satyricall sneering at the Greshamers for their late invention of the
transfusion of blood, as also at our covenant, making the witch of Geneva
to wy it and La Sainte Ligue de France togither.
 Sir George Gordon of Haddo, 1637-1720 (see _infra_, p. 177),
afterward Chancellor and Earl of Aberdeen, now returning from
studying law abroad. Advocate, 1668, Lord of Session, 1680,
President, 1681, Chancellor, 1682.
 Printed in 1668. T.S. was the son of the Bishop of Galloway. He
became conductor or proprietor of a theatre in the Canongate,
Edinburgh, and published the _Caledonian Mercury_, the first
After some way ye come to Covent Garden, all which will quickly fall in to
my Lord of Bedford by wertue of an assedation which quicklie is to expire,
having let of old the ground on the condition they should build upon it and
they brooking the ususfruit for such a space of tyme it should finally
returne to him; and this they tell me to be a ordinary contract at
London; then New Street, Suffolk Street, Charron Crosse, St. Martins
Lane. In its Church preaches D. Hardins, a pretty man. Heir is York house,
the New Exchange, etc., then the Strand and Savoye, Temple bar within and
without the Gate, wheir are all their Innes of Court, their lawyers and
many booksellers. Then ye come to Ludgate hil; then to St. Pauls; then to
Cheapsyde Crosse; then in to Broad Street at the back of the Exchange now:
their is also Litle St. Helens and Great St. Helens, Leadinghal; also
Aldgate, wtin the gate or wtout it; which is either wtin the bars or wtout
them called White Chappell; out which way we went to Hackney, a village
some 2 miles of London wheir M'ris Inglish hir son Edward lives; saw Bedlan
Green by the way and the beggars house. Neir Algate goes of the Minorites
leading to Tower-hil and the Tower, then doun to the Hermitage. The Custome
house is in Mark Lane.
 An early notice of building leases.
London is in Midlesex; Southwark thats above the Bridge is in Surrey, thats
under it is in Kent.
Having stayed til the 28 of October (about which very tyme my mother was
safely delivered of Walter), Hadow and I took our places in the coach for
York. Their was a squire in Westmorland with his lady and hir sister
returning home to his oune country, also a Atturneys wife who dwelt in the
Bischoprick of Durham in the Coach with us. Had large discourses of the
idlenes and vitiousnese of the citizens wifes at London being wery
cocknies. We will not forget what contest we had with some of them at the
taking of our places.
Having left London, came first to Hygate, 4 miles, my Lord Lauderdales
house, a village adjoining on the croup of a hill; then to Barnet, 10 miles
from London; then to Hatfield wheir we dined, 17 miles, wheir we saw
Hatfield house with brave parcks, all belonging to my Lord of Salisburie. A
litle of this is the greatest hy way in England leading to S't Albanes.
Came at night to Stesinwich, 20 miles of London.
Nixt day, being Tuesday, and 29 came to Baldoc 5 miles; Begleswith 10
miles; dined their at the Croun, wery bad entertainment; afternoon to
Bugden, 10 miles further, sad way. That night arrived their my Lord
Rothes, my Lord Arley, Sir J. Strachan, and others going to London.
Its some 3 or 4 miles from Huntington; the country is all couered with
willows like to Holland.
 Now Buckden.
 Arley, probably Airlie.
Nixt day Vednesday, 30, baited at a willage called Walsford, 17 miles
of wery bad way. Came at night to Stamford 5 miles furder; within a mile of
the toune we saw on each hand a brave stately house belonging to my Lord of
Exeter, in one of them lived the Duc of Buckinghame. It stands on a river:
whats besouth the bridge is in Northamptonshire, benorth in Lincolne. Its
held amongs the greatest tounes of England after London. Norwich is the
2'd, it hath 50 churches in it: Bristol is a great toune to.
 Watlingsford (Blaeuw), now Wansford.
Nixt day, Thursday, 31, leiving Postwitham and Grantham on our right
hand, we entred unto the most pleasant valley of Bever, the best ground for
corn and pasturage thats in all England: saw its castle at a distance,
seimed to be most artificially fortified; it stands in Leister,
Nottinghame, and Lincolneshires. Dined at Lougbirlington, 18 miles: a
long rabble of a toune indeed. Afternoon came to Newwark upon Trent; had
fowll weather with haille. Its in Nottinghame: its commonly called the
line of England, dividing it into 2 halfes south and north (all that live
benorth it are called North country men) by its river of Trent, which
embraces the sea at Hull; yet the halfes are not aequal. We saw the Kings
Castle their, tho demolisht in the last Civill wars.
 Postwitham, so written. North Witham and South Witham are near
Nixt day, Fryday, 1 of November, left Toxford on the Clay on our left
hand, entred unto Sheerwood Forest, wheir Robin Hood of old hanted. Was of
a incredible extent; now theirs no wood in it; but most excellent hunting:
it was good way. Baited at Barnby in the Moore, 17 miles of Newwark. As we
was heir J. Graham my Lord Middletons man overtook us going post. After
diner past Scrouby and Batry and came late at night to Doncaster, 10
 Scrooby and Bawtry.
The 6't day, being Saturday and the 2'd of November, it was a brave
clinking frost in the morning; we clawed it away past Robin Hoods well;
baited at Ferry bridges, arrived at York safely: lay wheir our coach
stayed. Devoted the nixt being Sabath for viewing of the toune; saw that so
much talked of minstrell, and truely not undeservedly, for it is a most
stupendious, magnificent Church as I had sein. Duc Hamilton was come their
Nixt day, being Monday and 4 of November, having bid adieu to our coach
companie and Mr. Thomas Paterson who had come doune all the way with us,
Sir George and I took post for Barrowbridges, 10 miles. Arrived about
11 howers, dined on apple tarts and sider: on immediatly for Northallerton,
12 miles; arrived ere halfe 3; my horse almost jaded: was very unresolved
whither to go any further or not; yet on for Darneton (wheir the good
spurs are made). We are all weill monted with a good guide: we are not 3
miles of the toune when it falls pit dark; a most boystrous night both
for wind and rain, and for the comble of our misery 10 of the worst way on
all the rode; yet out we most it. He led us not the ordinar way but throw
the enclosures, breaking doune the hedges for a passage wheir their was
none. Many a 100 ditch and hedge did we leap, which was strange to sie had
we not bein on horses that ware accustomed with it, yea some ware so
horrible broad that we forced to leap of and lead over our horses. We was
forced to ride close on on another, otherwise we should have losed on
another. When we was within 2 miles of Darnton we came to a great river
called Tees, in Latin by Cambden Tesis, which divides Yorkshire from the
Bischoprick of Durham (for from the time we came to Barnby in the Moore til
this place we ware ever in Yorkshire, which is the greatest in England);
heir we lighted and hollowed on the boatman on the other syde to come and
boat us and our horses over. If he had not bein their we had bein obliged
to ride 2 miles ere we had come to a bridge: over we win, and at last
reaches Darnton, both wet, weary, and hungrie.
 Off, as usual.
Nixt day, Tuesday and 5 of November, on by tymes for Durham, 14 miles. My
saddle proved so unmeit for the horse back that it turned perpetually with
me. At last changed horses with the postillon. Came to Ferryhill, 4 miles
to the south of Durham, askes for Isabell Haswal their, is most kindlie
received; comes to Durham be ten a cloak, on of the most strong tounes, and
that naturally, we saw in all England; then for Newcastle, 10 miles. Our
postillon Need of Durham the greatest pimp of England. Neer Newcastle saw
thesse pits of coall that carries its name. Then to Morpeth, 10 miles;
which wearied us so sore that we resolved to post no more, but to hire
horses home the Kelso way; wheirupon the postmaster furnished us horses to
carry us to Ulars, 22 miles; but ere we had reached Whittinghame throw
that most sad and wearisome moore and those griveous rocks and craigs
called Rumsyde Moore we ware so spent that we was able to go no further;
sent back our horses and stayed their all night.
Nixt day, being Thursday 7 November, got horses from that miserable village
to carry us the other 8 miles to Ulars [Wooler]. After we was once up
the braes we meet with wery good way. At Ulars had much difficulty to
find horses for Kelso, 12 miles further. At lenth we found, which brought
us thither about the evening; crossed the Tuede in boate just forgainst
the toune, which beyond compare hes the pleasantest situation of ever any
toune I yet saw in Scotland. Their stands the relicks of a magnifick
Abbasie that hes bein their. Lodged at Charles Pots; fand a sensible decay
of service by that a man hes in England. Having provided horses to carry us
to Edinburgh, 28 miles, we parted nixt morning Fryday 8 November.
 i.e. the road was good.
Saw hard by Kelso thesse 2 most pleasant houses that belong to my Lord
Roxborough, the Flowers and the Friers. Throw muiresh, barren ground
we came in sight of Lauder, 10 miles of Kelso, on the west bray, face of
the Lider Water. Over forgainst it stands a pretty house belonging to my
Lord Lauderdale: 4 mile further of excellent way all amongs the mids of
hills stands Ginglekirk wheir we dined; then forward our Sautry
hils of whilk we discovered Edinborough. Passing throw Fallean came to
the Furd within 6 mile of Edinborrough, yet we called first at New
Cranston, Sir J. Fletchers house; but himselfe was in the north marrieing
the Lady Elsick; his sone James and his daughter ware at Ormaston. James as
soon as he heard we was their came to the foord to us, stayed with us all
night; took us up to Cranston with him; wheir was receaved most magnifickly
by him and his sister.
 Now Floors.
 Now Channelkirk, still locally pronounced Shinglekirk.
 Now Fala.
Parted that day, being Saturday and 9 of November 1667, for Edinborough,
whither by Dalkeith I arrived safelie about 4 a Cloak in the afternoon
amongs my friends, from whom I had bein absent some 2 years and 8 moneths.
Accompte of my expence at London from September 6 to the 9 of November
In money from Freiston received 36 lb. 14 s.
from Lindsay by a bill, 19 lb., in all 55 lb. 15 s. sterling.
For a 4 nights diet and chamber maille in New Street 0 17 0, for a suite of
cloaths, 4 yards and 1/2 at 16 s. 3 yards sargeat, 4 s. and 6. so much
taby. the garniture about the sleives, in garters, shoe strings, etc., 1
lb. 16 s. the making, 14 s. with the other appartenances, in all it stood
me some 9 pound 10 s.
For 2 laced bands, 3 0 0
For a laced gravate, 0 12 0
For 4 pair of holland sleives at 8 s the peice, 1 12 0
For 4 pair of laced cuffes to them, 1 1 0
For silk stockings, 0 12 6
For worsted ones, 0 6 0
For Jesmine gloves, 0 2 6
For a fusting wascoat, 0 5 0
For 2 whole shirtes, 0 12 0
For 2 pair drawers, 0 9 0
For 3 pair shoes, 0 3 0
For a cloathbag, 0 8 0
My Oxford woyage and back, 1 0 0
My expence that week, 0 10 0
For books bought their, my catalogue
amounts to, 8 9 0
Given to Mris Inglish and hir maid, 5 0 0
For my place to York, 2 5 0
For my expence thither, 0 11 0
For 6 stages post, 1 10 0
For hired horses from Morpeth to this, 1 0 0
For my expense from York home, whither I
came Saturday 9 November, 0 8 0
Lent to Mr Thomas Paterson, 1 15 0
Summa of all is, 42 9 0
Brought home 7 lb. 10 s.
Repayed by Mr. T. Paterson 1 lb. 15 s.
which in all makes 9 lb. 5.
PETITION OF MR. JOHN LAUDER.
Unto the Right Honourable the Lord President and remanent Lords of Counsel
and Session the humble petition of Mr. John Lauder sheweth, That wheir your
petitioner having applied himselfe to the study of the Civil law both at
home and abroad, and being resolved to emprove the samen and to exerce it
as Advocat, May it theirfor please your Lordships to remit your petitioner
to the Dean of Faculty and Advocats for his tryall in the ordinar way in
order to the office of ane advocat. And your Lordships favourable returne
21 January 1668. The Lords having considered this bill and desyre theirof
remits the petitioner to the Dean of Faculty and Advocats to the effect
they may take triall of his knowledge of the Civill law and make report to
the haill Lords their anent.
JOHN GILMOUR, I.P.D.
Remits the supplicant to the private examinators to take tryall of his
qualifications and to report.
27 January 1668. The private examinators having taken tryall of the
supplicants qualifications of the Civill law finds him sufficiently
qualified theirin and remits him to his further tryall.
ROBERT DICKSON, GEOR. NICOLSONE.
PAT. HOOME, RODER. MACKEINZIE.
Edemborough, 28 January 1668. Assignes to the supplicant for the subiect of
his publick examination. Tit. D. _de collatione bonorum._
Edemborough, 15 February 1668. The body of Advocats being met and having
heard the supplicant sustain his tryal before them upon the befor-assigned
title, did unanimously approve him theirin and recommend him for his lesson
to the Lords favour.
GEORGE MACKENZIE, in absence of D. of F.
22 February 1668. The Lords having considered the Report above written
assignes to the petitioner the day of June nixt (which indeed was the 5h)
to finish his tryall in order to the office of a ordinire advocate, and
recommends the petitioner to the Dean of faculty for to have ane Law
assigned to him to that effect.
JOHN GILMOUR, I.P.D.
Edemborough, 1668. Assignes to the supplicant for the subject of his
publick lesson. _l. diffamari C. de Ingenuis Manumissis_.
I was admitted advocat on the 5 of June 1668.
* * * * * 
 A page scored out.
In August 1668 I went home with my sister for Glasco. Went by the White
house, the Coudbridge, Corstorphin, held up to the right hand, saw Gogar on
the left, Ingleston, Boghall, Norvells house. Came to Kirkliston, 6 miles
from Edemburgh. Neir it on this syde of the Water is Carlaury; a mile
furder is the Castle of Nidry; both it and Kirkliston toune belongs to my
Lord Vinton, and Newliston on the left hand then came to Lithcow,
Limnuchum 12 miles from Edenburgh. Baited at on Chrightones forgainst
the Palace, which hes bein werie magnificent, is now for the most part
ruinous. Under it stands the Loch, in the midle wheirof is a litle island
with tries. In the midst of the court is a most artificiall font of most
excellent water. Their is ane in the toune: their ...  wes neir the
palace. They are a building a tolbuith all of aislaer work.
 On margin [Vinsbrugh, Duntarvy, Wrae, Monteith],
 Limnuchum, the Latin name. Arthur Johnston, in his _Carmen de
Limnucho_, quoted at length by Sir Robert Sibbald, 'Nobile
Limnuchum est Patio de marmore templum,' etc.-Treatises,
Linlithgow, p. 16.
 About two words obliterated.
A mile from this on our left hand we saw Kettelston Stewart, then wheir the
famous city of Camelon stood built by Cruthne Camelon first King of the
Picts--330 years before Christ--alongs the river of Carron whither the sea
also came up, so that yet to this day digging deip they find tackles and
anchores and other appartenances of ships. Its thought that when the sea
gained in Holland and the Netherlands it retired heir; so that now its not
within 3 miles of this place now. Vespasian in the reigne of our Caratacus,
35 years after Christ, took it and sackt it. At last finally ransackt and
ruined by Kenneth the 2d in the year of Christ 834. Neir to this place
stands Dunipace with the 2 artificiall monts before the gate called
Dunnipacis. Heir also is that old building called by some Arthurs Oven, and
relicts of the great Wall of Adrian. But of all this consult Buchanan, lib
10, pag. 16, 17, 18.
Within a mile of Falkirk stands Calendar, the residence of the Earles of
Callendar, a place full of pleasure. We lay at Falkirk 6 miles beyond
Linligligow. Nixt day on for Kilsith, 9 miles furder. Saw Cumbernauld and
that great mosse wheir that fatall battell of Kilsith was fought, 6000
slayn on the place. Past by the Water of Bony wheir John Scots mother
lives. Bayted at Kilsith, saw the old place which was burned by the
Englishs, and the new place, then other 9 miles to Glascow. Passed by
Calder and a Water of the samen name. Saw Mucdock at a distance, my
Lord Montrosse his residence.
 Montrose defeated the Covenanters under Baillie at Kilsyth in
 Now Mugdock.
Being arrived at Glasco we lighted at my sisters in the Trone gate:
then saw Old Colin at his house in the Bridge gate; then saw their
Merchants Hall with its garden in the same street; then the 2 Hutchesones
brether ther hospitall in the Tronegate. The eldest brother was a Wrytter.
Then saw their bridge over Clyde, of which a man hes a most fair prospect
both up the river and doune the river of all the trough of Clyde.
 Mr. Laing mentions that one of Lauder's stepsisters was married
to Campbell of Blythswood.
Nixt day heard sermon in the Trone church: fornoon, Mr. Robert Stirling;
afternoon, Mr. Milne. After sermon went to their Bromeylaw, wheir is their
key for their boat, and a spring of most rare water.
Nixt day saw their tolbuith, Gallowgate, Saltmarket, Colledge with the
priveledges of the University of Bononia; their great church, on under
another, with the castle, the bischops residence with the Bischops
hospitall and the tradesmen their hospitall, both at the head of the toune,
which comes running doun from a eminence towards the river, supposing the
river to be the edge of this book, in this fashion.
 The crypt.
We went after for the Ranfield, 5 short miles from Glasco, on the south
side of the river. Saw on the way Govan, Renfrew, burgh royal. On the
other syde ware Parket, Scotts-toune Stewart lately married to
Roysaithes daughter, and the Barnes. Ranfield stands most pleasantly with
abondance of planting betuixt the Clyde and the Greiff or Carst,
that comes from Pasley.
 Now Partick.
 Now Gryfe.
 Now Cart.
Went up to Pasley by the Knock: its 2 mile from the Ranfield, a most
pleasant place with a pretty litle toune. In former tymes it belonged to my
Lord Abercorn. Now my Lord Cochrane hath it, who sold to the toune for 4000
merks the right he had of the election of their Magistrates, which he sore
repents now, for since the toune cares not for him. It hes bein a most
magnificent Abbaye, much of it ruined now. Ye enter into the court by a
great pend most curiously built. The wals of the yard may almost passe
for a miracle because of their curious workmanship and extent. The yards
are no wayes keipt in order. My Lord hes enclosed a wast peice of ground
for a park.
 Arched passage.
Nixt morning we went for Dumbarton, having crossed the river 5 long miles
from the Ranfield and 10 from Glasco. Saw on the way Rowlan on our right
hand, Bischopton, Brisbane, Erskin belonging to Hamilton of Orbiston, both
on the other syde of the river. Came throught Kirkpatrick, which is the
great mercat toune of the Hyland kyne; saw Castle Pottage; then by
Dunglasse a ruined castle standing on a litle rock in the Clyde belonging
to Sir John Colquhon of Luz; then by the craig called Dunbuc came to
Dumbarton toune, wheir meet with Walter Watsone, provest of Dumbritton.
Stayed at his brothers: went over to the rock, a most impregnable place as
any part of the world can show. Was so fortunat that Major George Grant was
not their. The gunner went alongs with us and shewed us the cannons, some
Scotes peices, some English, some French, some Flemish, one braze of
34 pound bal taken up out of that ship of the invincible armado which was
cast away on the north of Scotland in the 88. Their was 2 also iron peices
carrieing 32 pound ball, a peice casten in King James the 4't his tyme,
carried with him to Floudoun, and taken then and keipt ay to Charles the
I., his tyme. They call them demy canons, some of one lb, some of 8, some
of 14 lb ball, etc. They have excellent springs of water in many places of
the rock: their ammunition house is almost on the top of it. Of it we saw
my Lord Glencairnes house of residence, also Newwark, and under it the bay
wheir Glasco is building their Port Glasco. Neir to Dumbarton stands
Fulwood belonging to the Sempills. The Levin comes in to the Clyde heir.
The provest heir related to me that merrie passage betuixt Thomas
Calderwood and him. Its a most debaucht hole. Came back that night to the
 Now Luss.
Nixt day came to Glasco. That night our horses were arrested and pressed
because of the rumor that ther was a randevouz to be at Loudon hill. Saw
old Robert Cambell and young Robert with their wifes, James Cambel, John
Bell with his wyfe, Barbara Cambel, Colin Maclucas, Daniel Broun, Collonel
Meiren, Sergeant Lauder. Went out and saw Blayswoode, Woodsyde and
Montbodo its house wheir stayes my fathers old landlady. Saw his quarry,
his corne milnes, and his wack milnes. If that of Monbodo wer once
irredimeably his he will have above 50 chalders of wictuall lying their all
togither. On the south of the bridge stands the Gorbbells wheir is the
castle of the Gorbels: in it dwels at present Sir James Turner.
 Now Blythswood.
 For wauk.
We took horse at the Gallogate to go for Hamiltoun 8 miles from Glascow;
saw Wackingshaw, Kelving Water, the Castle of Bothwell, ruinous, belonging
to the Marquis of Douglas on the Clyde. Over on the other syde stands the
Craig of Blantyre, my Lord Blantyres residence: he has another house called
Cardonald near Renfrew. Then ye come to Bothuel toune, on halfe belonging
to the Marquis and the other to the Duc of Hamilton; then ye come to
Bothuel bridge--six pennies of custome a horseman payes; then a mile from
it stands Hamilton, first the nether toune, then the upper. Many of the
gentlemen of Cliddesdail was their that day at the Duc, as Silvertounhil,
Hages, Master of Carmichaell, Hamilton, Torrance, Stewart Hills,
Castlemilk, Rouchsoles, my Lord Lee which standes within 2 mile of
Lanerk. Lanark is 8 from Hamilton. Went and saw the yards: great
abondance of as good wines, peaches, apricoats, figs, walnuts,
chaistins, philberts, etc., in it as in any part of France; excellent
bon Crestien pears, brave palissades of firs, sundry fisch ponds. The wals
are built of brick, which conduces much to the ripening of the fruits:
their be 20 ackers of land within the yeardes. Their's a fair bouling
graine before the Palace gate. Then went to the wood, which is of a wast
bounds; much wood of it is felled: their be many great oakes in it yet:
rode thorough the lenth of it, it is thought to be 5 miles about. Saw great
droves of heart and hinde with the young roes and faunes in companies of
100 and 60 togither.
 Which, _i.e._ Lee. Sir James Lockhart Lord Lee's house.
 Yards, enclosed gardens, orchards.
 Chestnuts. Fr., _Chatains_.
Nixt day on for Edenburgh, 24 miles from Hamilton. Rode crost the Clyde at
a furd about 5 miles from Hamilton, came in to the muire way for Glasco:
wery ill way. Came to the Kirk of the Shots; then to Neidle eye wheir ye go
of to Bathcat; then to Swynish Abbey; then to Blaickburne belonging to
the Laird of Binny, 12 miles from Edenburgh. Baited their, then came to
Long Levinstone a mile furder; then to the pile of Levinstone Murray: the
house [Toures] was destroyed by the English. Saw on our right hand
Calder, my Lord Torphichens residence; then entered unto that moor,
Drumshorling Moore; then came to Amont Water: rode within a bow shot of
Clifton hall and within halfe a mile of Eleiston; then to Gogar stone and
Gogar toune; then to Corstorphin, and so home, being the 15 of August
 Now Swineabbey.
 Nearly half a page blank.
One day in a promenade with Mr. James Pilans past by Wright houses,
Greenhill, Mr. (Doctor) Levinstons, then a litle house belonging to Doctor
Stevinsone; then Merchiston; then to the Barrowmoore wheir Begs famous
house is; then to the Brig-house which belonged to Braid, was given of
by the Farlys in an assithment, liferented even now by the Ladie Braid,
payes her 200 merks a year; then up towards Greenbank to the Buckstone,
wheir is the merches of Braid with Mortinhall and Comistone; saw its
merches with the new Maynes of Colinton belonging to Mr. Harie Hay with
Craiglockart, the Pleughlands, and the Craighouse (now Sir Andro Dicks, of
old a part of the Barronie of Braid); then saw wheir the English armie lay,
also Swanston and Pentland. Then came alongs all the face or brow of the
bray of the Wester hill, which is the meith between Braid and Mortonhall,
till we came to Over libberton, Mr. William Little. Conquised by this mans
goodsire, William Little, provest of Edenburgh, befor K. Ja. went in to
England: a fyn man and stout: as appeared, 1 deg., that his taking a man
out of the Laird of Innerleith his house at Innerleith, having set sentries
at all the doors, and because they refused to open, tir a hole in the
hous top and fetch him out and laid him in the tolbuith for ryving a bond
of borrowed money fra a burges of the toun; which proceidur the Secreit
Counsell then, tho summar, allowed of. 2 deg., thair having bein long
debats betuen the toun and the Logans of Restalrig for the passage throw
Restalrig's lands to Leith (the way wheirto then was just by the tower),
and Restalrig having aither refused to let them pas throw his lands or else
would have them to acknowledge him, Prov: Little being with K. Ja. at
Stirling made a griveous complaint of their insolency; wheirupon he said he
cared not tho the highest stone of Restalrig ware as lach as the lachest.
Wheirupon the prov: Will ye bid me doe it, Sir? Wheirupon the K. Doe it if
ye like. Immediatly wtout telling the K. or anie else comes he post to
Edenburgh and causes cast doune the tour that same night. The K. tyme of
supping coming the K. calls for his prov: of Edenburght: no body could
tell. At last some tells that he suddenly was goon to Edenb: this moved the
K. I'll wad, sayd he againe, its to cast doun Restalrig Castle. Go with all
the speid ye can and forbid it. Are anie could come their it was done. K.
Ja: used to call the Huntly the 1 noble man of his kingdome and the provest
of Edenb the 2d.
 Dick of Braid.
 Strip off part of the roof, and so make a hole.
To returne. From Over liberton saw the byway to St. Catharines Well, a
quarter of a mile from Liberton, Leswaid, and Drodden; then came to
Libberton Kirk; then came neir to Libberton burne, and turned up to
Blackfurd, wheir we saw Braids merches with Libberton moore, now arable
ground, bought lately by the President. Also wt Grange saw
_Sacellum Sancti Marlorati_ Semirogues Chappell. That burne that runes
throw the Brighouse goes by Blackfurd to the Calsay and Powburne, then
to Dudiston Loch, out of which it runes again by West Dudiston milnes and
is the Thiget burne. Braides burne againe runes by Libbertone toune to
Peppermilne, fra that straight to Nidrie by Brunstone and its milnes to the
sea, a mile west of Musleburgh: the Magdalen bridge layes over it
 Anciently Dredden, now Dryden.
 Sir John Gilmour.
 Dick of Grange. See Appendix I., p. 239, note.
 The two names seem to denote the same chapel. St. Roque's
Chapel was on the Boroughmuir, half-a-mile west of Grange House.
See Bishop Forbes's _Kalendar of Scottish Saints_ s.v.,
Semirookie: 'Aug. 16, 1327. Under this corruption we find the
popular designation of a chapel dedicated to St. Roque, just
outside the east gate of Dundee.' The other name, distinctly
written, looks like a corruption of St. Mary of Loretto. Besides
the more celebrated shrine at Musselburgh, there is a tradition of
a Loretto chapel near the Lady's Wynd. Possibly Lauder confused it
with St. Roque's Chapel.
 Causeway, highroad.
 So sometimes spelt, more often Figgate or Fegot. The course of
the two streams is incorrectly described.
 So called from a chapel to St. Mary Magdalen.
That nunnerie the walls wheirof are standing at the Cheyns was
destined most by burgesses daughters, as also that whilk was in the
Colledge Yaird called _Monasterium Sanctae Mariae in Campis_.
 Cheyns, now Sciennes, convent of St. Catherine of Sienna.
 Destined by, meaning 'destined for,' hence, 'occupied by.'
Cheynes holds of the toun: they ware Robisons that possest it of old;
Grange by the Cants; Craigmillar, Prestons, Edmistons, of that Ilk, now
Reth, first of that name being Chancellar Seaton his servand and
carried the purse before him; Shirefhal, Giffards, then bought by the Earl
of Morton, Lord Dalkeith, now it belongs to the Balcleuch; Preistfield
(never kirk lands, tho the name would seime to say so), Hamilton, Tam of
the Cougates father; before them in the Chopmans; as also in the
 In 1671 the second son of Wauchope of Niddrie married the
daughter and heiress of Raith of Edmonston.
 Thomas Hamilton, first Earl of Haddington, favourite of James
VI., who so styled him.
Went on the 20 of September 1668 to Musselburgh to sie the Mid Lothian
Militia, being a regiment 10 companies (_id est_, Lauderdales Collonel, Sir
Jo. Nicolsons of Polton Lieutenant Collonel, Gogars Major, Mortanhalls,
Deans, Halzeards, Calderhalls, Sir Mark Kars of Cockpens, etc.),
muster in a rendezvous in the Links. Saw in going Stainehill, a sweit
place, the Dobies, ware burgesses, now Mr. William Sharps, keiper of the
Kings Signet, about a mile on the west of Mussleburgh Water and bridge and
Mussleburgh on the eist.
 Apparently a son of the Earl of Lothian, afterwards a general
of the army.
On the way to the south stands Innerask with its kirk. Hard at the
toune stands Pinkie, built about the year 1612 by Alexander Seton, Erle of
Dumferling, Lord High Chancellar of Scotland. His lady was Maitland, a
daughter of the then Lord Thirlistanes (who had bein King James his
Secretarie and Chancellar), now Erles of Lauderdale: his name and hirs are
in manie places of the house. This Erle of Dunferline that stayes at London
is his sone, hes so morcaged his Estate that my Lord Tueddalle for security
of cautionry for him hes tane possession of Pinkie, Fyvie, Dunferline, with
whatsomever other thing rests of his estate and is like to bruik it. Its a
most magnificent, statelie building [it hes but 20 chalder victual
belonging to it]: much cost hes bein wared theirupon. Their is a brave
building of a well in the court, fine shade of tries that fetches you into
it, excellent lar[ge] gallries and dining roumes. He hes bein mighty
conceity in pretty mottoes and sayings, wheirof the walls and roofs of all
the roumes are filled, stuffed with good moralitie, tho somethat pedantick.
See Spotiswood of him in _Anno_ 1622, page 543. A most sweit garden, the
knot much larger than that at Hamilton and in better order. The rest of the
yeard nether so great nor in so good order nor so well planted with such
varietie as is in Hamilton yeards. The knot heir will be 200 foot square, a
mighty long grein walk. Saw figs at a verie great perfection. Above the
utter gait as ye enter in to the place their is an inscription in golden
letters telling the founder theirof, and assuring them that shall ever
attempt to destroy that fabrick by sword, fyre, demolishment, or other
wayes that the wery stones and beams ut of the wall shall exclaime against
them as destitute of all humanity and common courtesie. 18 plots in the
garden, with a summer houses and sundry pondes.
 Now Inveresk.
Saw of the linkes wheir Pinky field was fought on the hill neir
Fawsyde. Heard whow the Laird of Carberrie then not desiring the battell
should be to neir his house had so much influence on the Scots armie as to
cause them leive the advantadge they had of the high ground and draw doune
to the champagne countrey, which was a partiall cause of their rout, as
also that the Englishes had their ships just at the links, who with their
shots of the sea did our forces a great deall of hurt.
 _i.e._ off, meaning 'from.'
Saw Walafield belonging to the Paipes. East it on the sea syde the Salt
pans. Above them within the land Tranent; then Prestonpans, wher was B.
Jossies house; then Dauphintoun, once Archibald Wilkies; then Fawsyde,
Ramsayes, on a hill head; then a mile beyond it Elphinston, the Clerk
Registers; then Carberrie, Blaires, they ware Rigs.
 Sir Archibald Primrose.
In the coming home saw Whithill, Easter Dudinstone, belonging to Sir Thomas
Thomsone. He that first acquired it was an Advocat in Queen Maries tyme,
who having bein much on hir party and afraid to be forfault, disponed his
whole estate over to a 2d brother of his, out of whosse hands he nor his
posterity (who are living this day in Rowen) could never pick it, so that
this Laird of it is the grandchild of that 2d brother. Its 60 chalder
of wictuallat beir and wheat ever accompted the finest thing about
Edenburgh. Its of great circumference.
 I am informed by Mr. William Baird, author of _Annals of
Duddingston and Portobello_, that this story is not authentic.
Saw Brunstone and Nidrie. Came throw Restalrig toune, wheir stands an old
chappel, the buriall place of the Lo: of Balmerinoch: also of old the
parish church of South Leith, so that the minister of South Leith even now
is parsone at this kirk, at least denominat so.
Inchekeith might weill now be called Inche Scott, since Scottistarvet
bought it, who had great designes to have made a good fischer toune
A litle after we went to Halton (the young La: being at London).
Went out by Gorgie Milnes, belonging to one Broune; then by Sauchton hall;
then by Belsmilne to Stanipmilne, Elies, up above which stands Reidhall,
Brands, and Colinton, with Craiglockhart, wheirin the President, S.J.
Gilmor, hes intres tho it belong to Colinton; then to Sauchton belonging to
Mr. David Watsone. On our left hand was Langhermistoune, the portioners of
it Mr. Robert Deans the Advocat and Alexander Beaton the Wryter. On our
left hand Reidheues who are Tailfours, the last of them married a daughter
of Corstorphin, Foster, for this Lo: is Lieutenant General Bailzies
sone, and got it by marrieng the heritrixe. Then came forward to Upper
Gogar belonging to on Douglas, who was a chamberlan for the Earle of
Morton. Kincaid of Wariston hes some intrest in it. Past Gogar Water, that
comes from Halton by Dalmahoy and Adestoun, and comes down to Gogar place.
On our left hand saw Riccarton Craig, Curriehill, Skene of old now
Winrahames; Wariston, Johnstons; Killeith, Scot of Limphoys, and
nearest of all thesse Adeston, bought by a Laird of Halton, who
married on Bellenden of Broughton, to be a provision to hir children (for
she was the Lairds 2d wife), wheiron he sold Cringelty neir Hayston in
Tueddal (which belonged of old to the Laird of Halton), and theirwith
purchessed Adelstoun and gave it to Sir Lues Lauder, who was the sone
procreat betuixt him and that ladie of the house of Bruchton. Sir Lues
married a daughter of Sir Archibald Achesons, who was Secretarie of
Scotland, whom I have sein, and who bore him 2 sones, one evan now a
preacher, married in England, the other in the Kings troup, with some
daughters: on of them knowen to have bein to familiar with Sir William
Fleming. Adelston now is sold to Sir John Gibson. Then saw Dalmahoy house
with its toune at some distance on the croup of the hill.
 Now Hatton.
 Charles Maitland, afterward Lord Halton, and third Earl of
Lauderdale, on whom and his children the estate was settled on his
marriage to Elizabeth, daughter of Richard Laudcr of Hatton.
 _i.e._ the present laird of Corstorphine.
 Now Kinleith.
 Now Alderston.
On our right hand stands Ratho (that belonged to Duncan, who being the
Kings talzeor conqueshed Bonytoun), now Mr. Alexander Foules; then Ratho
toune, the halfe of it belonging to Halton, the other halfe to Ratho place;
then Ratho kirk, the parish of many of the gentlemen of this country; then
Rathobyres, the on halfe wheirof pertaines to James Fleming; then
Northtoun, a willage or meling belonging to the Laird of Halton;
then came to Halton. Their beside the old Laird, the lady
Richard, Jo., Charles and their sister Isabell was Jean
Areskin, Balgonies daughter, Elphiston, a daughter of Calderhals, and Mr.
William Sims eldest daughter.
 Now Norton.
 Maling, Mailing (from 'mail,' rent) either has the ordinary
meaning 'farm,' or perhaps a group of cottars' houses, 'maillers'
or 'meallers,' who were allowed to build on waste land, and hired
themselves out as labourers.--Jamieson, _Dict_., s.v.
 Richard Lauder, last of Hatton.
 Richard Lauder's daughter, wife of Charles Maitland.
 Fourth earl.
 Fifth earl.
 Afterwards married to Lord Elphinston.
Halton, as I saw their, carries the griffin bearing a sword, on the point
wheirof is a Moors head. The occasion they tell me is that one of the
Lairds went with a brother of Robert the Bruce to the Holyland and slew
many of the Sarazens their, wheiron he added that to his coat. The motto
is, Strike alike. Metellans hes a lion with a star.
Learned of the old Laird that the Lairds of Calder ware knights of the
order of St John of Jerusalem, after knights of the Rhodes, now of Malta,
and that by vertue theirof they ware superiors of all the Temple lands
(which in Edenburgh may be discerned yet by having Croces on them), as
weill in burgh as in landward throwghout Scotland. Heard him speak of that
Bond of Assurance betuixt the toune of Edenburgh and the Laird of Halton,
the like wheirof few in Scotland hes of the toune of Edenburgh.
This Laird hes bought in a place called the Spittle (_proprie_ the
Hospitall), just over on the other syde of the water, which never
appertained to the Laird of Halton of before. All the ground about it the
Laird is taking just now in to be a park.
In one of the chambers hings King Charles the 2d, King Henry le Grand of
France, fetcht home by the old Laird; the old Earle of Lauderdale with his
ladie, the Lady Reidhouse, now Lady Smeton Richison, the old Laird Mr.
Richard, with some others.
This Laird hes made a verie regular addition to the old dungeon tower. The
garden that lies to the west of the dungeon would have bein better placed
to the southe of the house wheir the bouling greine is, tho I confesse that
by reason of the precipice of the bray hard at hand it would have bein to
narrow. Hes its ponds.
Came back the same way we went.
Nixt day went for Eleiston, 7 miles from Edenburgh (Halton is 6). Went by
Corstorphin, Gogar toune and Stone; saw Gogar place, then Ingleston,
Eistfeild, belonging to James Gray, merchand, then Halzeards, Skein, then
Newliston, Auldliston, toune of Kirkliston, Castle of Nidrie, Baruclan, my
Lord Balmerinochs, Barnebougall, the Clerk Registers, of old the
Moubrayes, Dundas of that Ilk, Leine, Youngs, Craigiehall, bought from
my Lord Kingstone by Mr. Jo. Ferolme, 50 chalder of wictuall for a 100,000
merk, who seiking up some monies from some noblemen to pay it with
occasioned the making the Act of debitor and creditor; then Kilpont, the
Earle of Airths, Mr. Archibald Campbell hes 40,000 merks on it; then
Kirkhill, Stewarts, conquised by Sir Lues Stewart the advocat; his daughter
(a very good woman) is Ladie Glencairne; then Uphall Kirk, which is
Kirkhils parish kirk; then Binnie and Binnie Craigs with Wester Binnie,
which belongeth to Mr. Alexander Dicksone, professor in Hebrew. Crosed the
Water of Amont at Cliftonhall. Beyond Binnie Craigs stands Dechmond,
 Sir Archibald Primrose, 1616-1679; Clerk Register, 1660;
Justice-General, 1676. (See _infra_, p. 225.) His son Archibald
was the first Earl of Rosebery, cr. 1703.
Came to Eleiston, over against it stands Bonytoun, Scots, the Laird of
Halton Mr. Richards ladie was of that family; also Clifton toune,
consisting of many mechanicks, especially wobsters, etc. Stands in
Linthgowshire 5 mile from it: stands most hy and windie in the edge of
 Now Illieston.
 _i. e_. apparently Linlithgow.
Inquiring, if because of its name Eleiston it ever belonged to the Eleis's
of before. Answered, that no: also that the true name of it is not Eleiston
but Hyliston. Belonged to the Earles of Monteith, and was a part of their
barronie of Kilpont. Its some 300 acker of land paying about 6 firlots the
acker; hes held at on rentall thesse 100 years. The gentlemen that last had
it ware Hamiltons, ever Catholicks. K. James, because he had no house to
bait at when he came to hunt in the moor, gave on of them 20,000 merks to
build that house, wheirto he added 4 himselfe. Its stronglic built as
it had neid, being built in so windy a part. We first enter in to a hall.
On our right hand as we enter is a kitchin and a sellar, both wouted.
On the left a fair chamber. Then ye go upstairs and ye have a fine high
hall, and of everie end a chamber hung both with arras hangings. Then in
the 3'd storie ye have a chamber and a larg loft. On the top of a turret
again above ther is a litle chamber wheir their preist stayed when the
Hamiltons had it, who had divers secret passages to convey himselfe away if
pershued. Their was Marion Sandilands, Hilderstons daughter, with Margaret
Scot his 2'd wyfe; item Sir John Scot of Scotstarvets picture. In the
timber of the most part of the windows is cut out the name of the gentleman
that had it, with the year of God when it was built, 1613, 1614. Mr. Jo.
Eleis hes put up his name and his ladies on the gate.
 _i. e_. the proprietor added 4000 merks.
 Vaulted, _voutes_.
Jo. Bonar hes bought a place just on the other syde of the loch of Lithgow
forgainst the palace, called Bonytoun, which he hes changed and called
Bonarton. Reidop, which belonged to on Drummond a Lord of the Sessionis,
neir Lithgow, my Lord Lithgow hes bought it: its but a small thing. Yea
manie of the Lords of Sessions purchess's at that tyme ware but small,
divars of them no 12 chalder of wictuall. Neir to Binnie I saw Riccarton,
Came home the same way that we went afield.
 The passage which follows, enclosed within brackets, is scored
[Illustration: JANET RAMSAY.
(_First Wife of Lord Fountainhall._)]
[I was married 21 January 1669 in the Trone Church at 6 a cloack at
night, being Thursday, by Mr. John Patersone. On the 3d of December 1669
was my sone John born about on afternoone, and was baptized on the
Sonday theirafter, being the 5th of December, in the Grayfriers, by Mr.
On the 8 day of Aprill 1671, being about halfe are hower past tuo in the
morning, being on Friday night and Saturdsdayes moring, was my wife
delivered of a daughter, who was baptized on the 23 of April, being
Sunday, in the by kirk by Mr. James Lundie, and called Jannet.
On the 15 of September 1672, about halfe are hower past 5 in the
morning, being Sundayes night or Mondayes morning, was my wife delivered
of a daughter, who was baptized on the 30 or last day of September,
being Monday, at 5 acloak in the afternoon, in the Tolbooth Church, by
Mr. William Gairnes, and was called Isobell.
See thir marked alibi.]
About the 25 of Aprile 1669 I went over to Fyfe with my father in law.
Landed at Kinghorne, wheir is an old castle ruinous, once belonging to the
Lord of Glammes, who had also a considerable intres within that toune, but
hes non now save the presentation of the minister (who is called Mr.
Gilbert Lyon) onlie. Walked from that to the Links on our foot by the sea
syde: saw Seafield Castle midway who ware Moutray to their names. The
French in Queen Maries dayes made use of it for a strenth. Then came to
Innerteill links, wheir be conies. Then to the Linktoune, divided by the
West burne fra Innerteill lands, wheir dwell neir 300 families, most of
them mechanicks, above 20 sutors masters, 37 wobsters, as many tailzeours:
its set out to them by ruides, each ruid payes a shilling of few duetie.
Saw the Westmilne house, the goodmen wheirof ware Boswels. The milne bes
the toune of Kirkcaldie thirled to it: payes some 16 chalders of wictuall.
Halfe a mile from this is Abbotshall church lands, tuise confirmed by the
Popes: they ware Scots, cadets of the Laird of Balveirie. Payed a
considerable few duety to the Abbots of Dumferling, which is now payed to
the King. He bes lately got in the Scarres and Montholie, 16 chalders
of wictuall. Theirs a garden, bouling grein, tarraswalk, fruite
yard, wild orchard and a most spatious park, with a meadow and a loch,
wheir are a great number of picks, manie wild ducks big theirin. Neir it
lyes the Raith, my Lord Melvills. Balveirie is his also, and Bogie, Bogs
Eye, on the eye of a boog, Veimes. Touch, Thomsone, his father was a
Writer to the Signet, some 10 chalders of wictuall; Bannochie belongs to
Boogie: on Ayton hes a wodset on it.
 His father-in-law, Abbotshall.
 _i.e._ Bogie belonged to a family of Wemyss.
Saw Grange, a wery sweit place: was Tresaurer of Scottland in Quein Maries
dayes, and Cunyghameheid was his depute, and his sone again was governour
of Edenburgh Castle and was hanged. Slew a 100 Frenchmen once at Masse.
Much planting about it. Is but 28 chalders of wictuall.
Saw Innerteill. It layes low, belonged to on Erskein, was a Lord of the
Session, had a daughter onlie, who married the Laird of Tarbet, then
Colinton. Malcolm of Babedie hes bought it (its 36 chalders of good
wictuall): gave for it 40,000 lb., and bids hir liferent.
 _i.e._ bides.
Saw Pittedy, stands on the croup of a hill pleasantly but by; ware
Boswuells. David Dewars father was tennent heir above 30 years. Its 25
chalders of wictuall.
Kirkaldie is the best merchant toune in Fyfe: it had before the Englishes
came in 80 sail of ships belonging to it, now it will not have 30. Then is
Revensbeuch, its my Lord Sinclairs; then the Pathhead or Pittintillun,
belonging to on Watsone in Bruntilland; then the Dysert, wheir are manie
saltpans; the Weimes; Easter Weimes, Easter Buckhaven, Anstruther, Craill,
Fyfenes, St. Androis, the Elie, belonging to Ardrosse.
Went to Balgonie to sie the Chancelar, which is not his, but the Earle
of Levine his children, belonged to the Sibbalds who ware great men and of
much power. Within halfe a mile to it stands Balfour, Beatons to their
name, a cadet of Lundy, married the heretrix of Balgonie in _anno_ 1606,
and tho he changed not his name yet he took the place of his elder brother
 Earl of Rothes.
Saw by the way Kinglassie, Ayton, Leslie, wheir a most magnificent house is
a building: it is neir the Lowmonds, and Falkland, and Lochlevin, in the
castle wheirof was Queen Marie keipt. About halfe a mile from it is
Markins, wheir Mr. John Ramsay is minister, who is my goodfathers
cousin german. Neir it stands Brunton, most pleasantly: it belongs to one
Law. Their is much moorish ground in our way.
 Now Markinch.
Their was thrie thries (as they called them) in Fyfe, Balveiry Scot,
Ardrosse Scot, Dischingtoune of late, but Scot, and Balgonie Sibbald:
Balmuto, Bosuel, Weimes of that Ilk, and Rossyth Stuart: then Lundie of
that Ilk, Durie of that Ilk, and Colerine, Barclay or else Craighall,
 This seems only to mean that the three trios of lairds hunted,
not in couples, but in threes.
On the 5 of May we came over from Bruntiland.
Skein in his de V. Signi: _in verbo_ Clan Macduff, tells whow on
William Ramsay was Earle of Fife in King David the 2'ds dayes.
 _Verborum significatione_.
Saw in the way to Bruntilland the sands King Alexander the 3'd brak his
* * * * *
Mr. Joseph Mede, in one of his letters to Doctor Tuisse, speaking
anent the manner whow the great continent of America and its circumjacent
ilands may probably be supposed to have bein peopled, thinks that the
greatest part of that country (especially Mexico and Peru, who ware found
the only civilized people amongs them, having both a State and a Church
government established among them) was planted by great colonies sent out
of the barborous northern nations laying upon the north frozen sea,
videlicet, the Tartars and others, who entred America by the Straits
of Auvan, and that the most of them hes gone thether since our Saviours
coming in the flesh. After which the devil, finding his kingdom ever more
and more to decay through the spreading of Christianity upon the face of
the wholle earth, which before he keipt inchained in black heathinsme, and
being much afflicted with the great din and noyse of the gospell
which was come to the utmost ends of the then knowen world, so that he was
affraid to lose all his footing hear, he by his oracles and responses
encouraged thesse Barbarians (in this Gods ape who called Abram to the
land of promise) to desert their native countrie and promised them better
habitations in another part (which he might soon do) wheir he might be out
of the dread of the gospell and might securly triumph over them as his bond
 Mede, Joseph, B.D., 1586-1638.
 Twisse, Wm., D.D., 1575-1646.
 On the margin: 'Purchas in his Pilgrimage in Mexico reports this
_ i.e._ imitator.
The ground of this conjecture is from some records found in the city of
Mexico of their kingdome and its foundation, bearing that their ancestors
about 400 years ago onlie (who then dwelt far north) ware called out of
that countrie by their God which they called Witzill Putzill, in effect,
the Devil, to go to a far country (this was to Mexico), far more fruitfull
and pleasant than their oune, which he should show them, and wheirof he did
give them marks and that he should go before them. And that accordingly
they sett on for the journey, and that their god went before them in ane
ark, and that they had many stations and marches, and that they ware 40
years by the way, and that at last they came to the promised land, and that
they know it by the marks their god had given them of it. All this in
manifest imitation of God his bringing the children of Israel out of Egypt.
Its reported that the State of Scotland looking ut for a suitable match for
James the 2d, then King, sent over to the Duc of Gelderland (who had 3
daughters) some of the nobility and some bischops for the clergy to demand
any of the 3 they should judge most sutable for the King. The Duc was
content on of the Bischops [it was the Bischop of Rosse]--should sie
them and feill them all 3 naked to discern theirby which of them was
strongest and wholesomest like. His report was in favors of the youngest:
his reason was, _Est enim bene crurata culata cunnata aptaque ad
procreandos nobis generosos principes._
 The Bishop of Dunkeld (not Ross) was one of three commissioners
sent to choose a bride for the king, first to the Court of France.
Mary of Gueldres was an only daughter-Tytler, _Hist._ iii. 209.
The story is probably apocryphal. But in Russia, when the Tsars
were married, the inspection of the candidates was an established
custom and ceremony for two centuries after the marriage of James
A French gentleman being inamoured with a damoiselle of Lyons, going in to
Italie to travell she gets notice that he had tane huge conceit of a
Venetian, and that he was about to marrie hir. She writs a letter in a
large sheit wheirin was nothing written but Lamasabachthani, withall a
false diamond. He receaving it know not what to make of it, went to a
jeweller to try the stone, who discovered it to be false tho it had ane
excellent luster. After many tossing thoughts he fell upon the knack of it,
videlicet, that it was a heiroglyphick diamant faux, and that it behoved to
be read thus, Tell, false lover, why hast thou forsaken me.
* * * * * 
 There is here omitted an unpleasant story of a Duc de
Montpensier of a former age, who in ignorance married a lady to
whom he was doubly related by the closest ties of consanguinity.
The same story will be found in Nouvelle 30 of Queen Margaret of
Navarre (the scene being laid in Avignon), and in Horace Walpole's
play _The Mysterious Mother_. Also an anecdote about the terms of
the _tenendas_ clause of a charter said to be in the Tower of
London, which is given in English, and is too gross to print.
For farder demonstrations of the truth of that conspiracy of Gouries (which
some cals in doubt), besydes what is in Spotswood, Mr. William Walker told
that he heard oft from Mr. Andrew Ramsay that the said Earle being
travelling in Italie had a response thus, _Dominus de Gourie erit Rex_.
After which he took a strong fancie he would be King, wheiras it was to be
reid, _Rex erit_, etc. In pershuit wheirof being in on of the Universities
of Germanie and to leive his armes their, in his coat he caused put the
Kings armes, videlicet, the Lyon, with a hand and a dager pointing at the
Lyons breist, and so gifted them. And when he was returning he wrot to all
his freinds and dependents to meit him at Muslebrugh, which they did to the
number of 300 horse or their abouts, with which he came to Edenburgh; and
that he might be the more tane notice of, he caused take his lodging in the
Landmarket, and came up al the streit with this train, and tho the
King was in the Abbey yet he passed by without taking notice of him. He was
likewayes a great receipter and protector of all the discontented factious
persones of that tyme.
 Now Lawnmarket.
They say their are blood yet to be sein on the wall of the house in St.
Johnston, wher he and his brothers ware slain, which cannot be washen away.
Sir John Ramsay being then the Kings page killed him (he was a sone of the
Laird of Wyliecleuchs in the Merse), and for his valeur and good service
was made Earle of Huldernesse and got a great part of the lordship of
Dumbar, which was then of the Kings annexed patrimonie, but on this accompt
in anno 1600 ware dissolved by the Parliament. Thesse lands Mr. W. Kellie
In September 1670 I waited upon my father to the Merse to sie the Laird of
Idingtoun. Lighted at St. Germains, so called from are old chappell
dedicat to that saint of old standing their. From that went to Hadingtoun,
saw in the way Elvingston, weill planted, but standing in Gladsmoore: item,
Nunland, Adderstone, and Laurenceland, belonging to Doctor Hendersone.
Above Hadingtone lyes Clerkingtone, Cockburne, Colstoune, Broun, who talk
much of their antiquity and pear they preserve, Yester, and
Leidingtoune: 3 miles of stands the Registers house, Chesters, wheirin Mr.
Patrick Gillespie now dwells. To the eist of Hadington stands the Abbay,
Newmilnes, Stevinsone, and Hermistone, all most pleasant places and weill
planted; as also Morhame and Hailles, past the Almous house within a
mile of Dumbar. Saw on our right hand Spot and the Bourhouscs, ware Happers
now Muires; saw also Fuirstoun belonging to Andrew Whyte, once keiper of
the Tolbuith; then saw Innerwick toune and church standing at a good
distance from the house. Saw Neutonlies, Eistbarnes, Thornetounloch,
Scatteraw, Douglas, and Colbrandspath: past thesse steip braes called the
Pies. Saw Butterdean toune and house acquired by Mr. William Hay, the
Clerk, who also bought Aberlady, now belonging to Sir Androw Fletcher: then
saw Rentoun lying in a wild moir: item, Blacarstoun of on our right hand
also in a wild seat, yet seimed to be reasonably weill busked with
planting: item, Blaickburne in the moir: then Fosterland: then Bouncle,
Preston, and Lintlands, belonging to the Marquise of Douglas and presently
the Lady Stranavers jointer, worth 10,000 merks by year: then Billie,
Renton to his name, and then Billie, Myre; then Edencraw, then came to
Idington, 36 miles from Edenbrugh, ware Idingtons to their name, hes no
evidents of it but since the year 1490. In this same condition are the most
of the gentlemen of the Merse who ly most obnoxious to Englands invasions.
 Sir John Lauder senior's third wife was a daughter of Ramsay of
 The Coalston pear was presented by the Warlock of Gifford to his
daughter, who married Broun of Coalston, telling her that as long
as it was preserved fortune would not desert the family.
Saw the Maines, a roome lying betuixt Chirnesyde tour and Idington: ware
Homes. On Patrick Mow, sone to the last Laird of Mow, maried the heritrix
of it, and so hes the land. They tell whow the Earle of Roxbrugh was the
cause of the ruine of the said Laird of Mow. Mow being on a tyme with some
Englishmen took on a match for running upon a dog of my Lord Roxbrughs
head against their dogs, wheiron addressing himselfe to my Lord, he
would not quite his dog unless Mow would give him a bond to pay him 8000
merks incaise he restored him not back the dog haill and sound: which Mow,
thinking their ware no hazard in it, did. The day being come my Lords dog
wins the race; but as soon as it was done my Lord had a man ther readie to
shoot it: who accordingly did so, and fled. Then my Lord seiking the soume
in the bond, and he unwilling to pay it, was at wast charges in defending,
and at last succumbed, and so morgaged his estate to Adam Bell, who after
got it. His ladie was a daughter of West Nisbets, with whom the young man
Patrick was brought up.
 Upon the head of a dog of Lord Roxburgh's, _i.e._ backing
Saw Chirnesyde toune standing a mile of Idingtoun, belonging to sundry
petty heritors, some of them of halfe mark lands. My Lord Mordington is
superior as also patron of the Kirk: on Lanty is minister their. It will be
more then halfe a mile long. At the end of it neir to Whitater stands the
Nynewells (corruptly called the Nyneholes), from 9 springs of water besyde
it, wheirof on in the fountain is verie great: are Homes to their name. Saw
Blanerne, belonging now to Douglas of Lumbsdean. Saw Eist Nisbet, ware
Chirnesydes, now belongs to the Earle of Levins daughter: item, Blacader,
ware Blacaders (of which name Tullialen is yet), are now Homes who ware a
cadet of Manderstones. At a greater distance saw Manderston, Aytoun,
Wedderburne, Polwart, Reidbraes, a house of Polwerts, Crumstaine, Sandy
Spottiswoods; West Nisbet, a most sweit place, ware Nisbets to their name.
Saw Huttonhall, ware Homes to their name, now belongs to Hilton, which was
a part of Suintons lands. Saw the toune of Hutton belonging to sundry
portioners. Saw Paxtoun and Edringtone, a part of Basses lands, and
given away to a brother, now belongs to my Lord Mordington. Saw Foulden,
the Bastile, Nunlands, Ramsay--his grandsire was parson of Foulden. Saw
Mordington and Nather Mordington. Saw the bound road within my Lords
park. Saw on the English syde of Tuede Ourde the Birkes wheir King Charles
army ly, Norame Castle and Furde; the ladie wheirof inviegled King James
the 4t when he went in to Flouden: they have bein leud women ever since.
Ker of Itall got it by marieng the heritrix. Went to Bervick, wheir they
are building ane Exchange. In the way is Halidoun Hill, wheir on of the
Douglasses was slain; Lammerton, in the Chappell wherof was King James the
3d maried on King Hendrie the 7th of Englands daughter. Their is a great
salmond fisching on Tueid: for the freedome but of one boat on it they pay
100 lb. ster: per annum. We was at a kettle on the water syde. My Lord
Mordington had all the Magdalene field, but he could not get it peaceably
possessed for thesse of Berwick, so that he sold it to Watsone. Holy Iland
is 7 miles from Berwick. My Lords father Sir James Douglas was a sone of
the Marquis of Douglas: he maried the only daughter of the Lord Oliphant.
Idington is 5 miles furder in the Merse then Renton.
 Lauder of the Bass.
 Probably a road forming the boundary between the liberties of
Berwick and the county.
 'A social party on Tweedside, common during the salmon fishing
season.'--Ogilvie's _Imp. Dict_.
Returned that same way almost and came to Auldhamstocks, 9 miles from
Idington. Saw Auldcambus, then came to Eistbarnes; then for Linton bridges;
within 2 mile of it saw the land of Nyne ware. Saw Gourlaybank; came and
lay at Wauchton, who ware Moubrayes, and a 2d sone of my Lord Hailles
marieing them they became Hepburnes. Quinkerstaines is a peice of old land
of theirs. They got also Lufnes by marieng the heritrix theirof Riccartoun.
But my Lord Hailes rose by 3 forfaulters: of the Earle of March, Dumbar, of
the Creichton, and of Bothuell, Ramsay, the Laird of Balmayne. Gorgie
milne besyde Edenburgh did belong to Balmayne, but by a gift of nonentrie
Otterbune of Reidhall, who was at that tyme Clerk Register, he got it.
 As to Ramsay of Balmain being created Earl of Bothwell by James
III., see p. 205.
Saw nixt day Furd, Whitkirk, Craig, Hepburn, Balgone, Semple, Leuchie,
Merjoribanks, Sydserfe, Achesone, Cassilton, Tomtallon, both the Marquis of
Douglasses, and the Basse, 2 mile within the sea, about a short mile in
circumference. Saw the May, belongs to Barnes Cunyghame. Saw Fentontour,
ware Haliburtons and Wisconts, then purchased by the Earle of Gourie, now
my Lord Advocats: saw the Heuch-Home.
 Sir John Nisbet.
Nixt day went for Hadington: saw Ethelstanefield. In Hadington saw my
Lord Lawderdales buriall place, werie magnifiek. The Lord Yesters got
Zester by mariage of the only child of my Lord Giffart. He had Beltan by
marieng with a Cunyghame.
 Probably Athelstaneford.
In the coming to Edenbrugh saw Eister and Wester Adenstens, that is also
their name; then Tranent, and neir it Windiegoule; then Elphinstone; then
on the cost syde Cockenie, Seaton, Preston, Prestongrange, the Pans,
Landnidrie: up on the brae are Wallyfield, Dauphinton, Carberrie and
 Now Longniddry.
Master Thomas Scot of Abbotshall in King James the 5th tyme was Justice
Clerk. Vide Hopes Collections, page 12, in principio.
The Lairds of Glenbervie are not the oldest Douglasses as some say, but a
cadet of Angus maried the heritrix theirof, they being then Melvils verie
old in that name, and the powerfullest in all the Mearnes. They ware
heritable shireffs their, and on of them being a great oppressor of the
wholle country, manie complaints were made of him to the King. The King
once answering that he cared not tho' they supped him in broth, they
presently went and took him to a hill syde which they yet show, put on a
ketle and boiled him their, and each of them took a soop out of it. It was
 This story is told more fully by Sir W. Scott in a note to
Leyden's ballad 'Lord Soulis,' _Border Minstrelsy_, vol. ii. p.
350, ed. 1802. Albany was Regent in 1417.
They tell that amongs the manie Universities that are at Lovain their is
one which of old was institute for poor scollars who had nought wheiron to
maintaine themselfs, but that their diet was verie sober, nothing but bread
and very small bread. At a tyme on of the students in it having a great
stomack, in a rage sayd to his other fellows, If I ware Pope of Rome I
would make the students of this Colledge to fare better then they do. He
came to be Pope, and endowed that Colledge with great revenues, so that its
the richest now in all Lovain.
Of all the histories we have on record of magicians and sorcerers that
seimes to me most strange which is reported of Ascletarion by
Suetonius, in Vita Domitiani, in pagina 82.
 _Duodecim Caesares_, Domitian c. 15. The soothsayer's
power of divination was tested by asking what his own fate would
be. He said he would very soon be devoured by dogs. Domitian
desiring to confute such uncanny powers of prediction ordered him
to be killed and securely buried. The funeral pyre was knocked
down by a storm, and dogs devoured the half-burnt remains.
That Touch which George Tomsone hes wes acquired by his father from the
Melvines, who are designed Lairds of Dyserts, who again acquired it in 1472
from on Touch, so then they have bein of that Ilk.
Fingask, now McGill, ware Dundasses of before.
NOTES OF JOURNEYS IN SCOTLAND, 1671-72. 
Having past over to Fyffe about the latter end of August 1671, I went to
Leslie. Saw by the way Finglassie and Kinglassy and Caskieberry, bought by
a Gennan who came heir about 60 or 70 years ago, and professed medicine:
was called Shoneir. His grandchild sold it to the chancellor, who hes also
bought the barrony of Cluny, sometyme belonging to Crighton of St.
Leonards. Saw Touch, neir Markinch. Saw Balbirny, sometyme Sir Alex'r
Clerks, now it pertaines to a tailzeour called Balfour. Saw Balquharge
belonging to Bogie's unkle: then going for Couper, saw Ramsayes
forther, now Pitcairnes by a marriage with the heritrix. Saw the hy
way to Falkland, neir which stands Corston, whosse name is Ramsay: a sone
wheirof was sir John Ramsay in K. James the 3ds dayes, and created by him
Earle of Bothwell. He sent to the grammer scool of Edr. for a gentleman's
sone to wait upon him, and who could writ weill. 2 ware brought him to
choise one, wheirof Jo. Ramsay was the one; the other wrot better, yet the
king made choise of John as having more the mean of a gentleman then the
other, and made him his cubicular. He gave him the lands of Taringzean in
Air, and Karkanders in Galloway, Gorgie and Gorgymilne in Louthian, and
Balmayne in the Mernis. Without licence from him none could wear a sword
within 2 miles of the K.'s palace. He made him also captain of his guards,
vide Buchanan, pag. 444 and 450. Anent his being Earle of Bothwel Buchanan
causes some doubt, because in K. Ja. the 3ds dayes, at pag. 452, he
mentions Adam Hepburne, Earle of Bothwell; but I think he is in a mistake,
for Drummond is formally contrare. The time of his death is controverted:
some say he was killed at Stirling field with K. Ja. the 3'd, others
(amongs whom is Mr. Androw Ramsay in his poems) at Flouden with Ja. the
4't. Whoever on Ja. the 3'ds death the title of honor conferred upon him
was retracted; but he was not legally forfault nather in Parliament nor in
a Justice court, so that the familie of Balmayne might the more easily be
restored againe to that honor. He was the first in Scotland that ever got a
patent of nobility. Buchanan throw the wholle tract of his history makes it
his work to speak ill of all thosse who ware the king's favorites for the
tyme. He sets doune all their vices in folio, but conceals the vertue by
which it most be presumed they rose, and by which they did keip themselfes
on foot. The tyme was their ware 22 landed gentlemen of the name of Ramsay
in Fyffe. Some say Corston was a cadet of Dalhousie and some of
Auchterhouse, of which family I have heard it contended the famous Alex'r
Ramsay in King David's tyme (Buchanan, page 309) was, and not of Dalhousie;
as also the Ramsay that was with Wallace. Of Dalhousie Ramsay, sy page 314.
Skein, in the word Clan-McDuff, tells of W'm Ramsay E. of Fyffe, in K.
Davids time. Its thought Auchterhouse is elder then Dalhousie; but that the
most floorishing family is most ready to arrogat to it selfe as being the
oldest house. Sir Jo. Ramsay that killed Gowry was a sone of Wiliecleuches
in the Mers, and got Estbarnes, and was made E. of Huldernes. He was first
made vicount of Hadingtoun.
 MS. K.
 It may be that the name of the property is omitted by mistake.
We saw also Rossie ... and its loch, which seemes to be very large;
saw Ramorney, Heriot; saw Scotstarvet, formerly Inglistarvet, on the croup
of a hill; besyde it is the Struther. Then came to Couper by that way wheir
the race is run; then came to Scotscraig-a part of it holds of the See of
St. Androis and some of the E. of Mar--my Lord St. Androis big house, 6
miles from Couper and 4 from St. Androis, and a mile from the north ferry.
It belonged, as also the Kirkton within a mile theirof, to George Lord
Ramsay, father to this E. of Dalhousie, and was sold by him to S. J.
Buchanan, and Abbotshall conquestit in lieu theirof. On the windows
of the house of Scotscraig are the initiall letters of Sir Jo. Buchanan and
Dame Margaret Hartsyde. Arthur Erskin got it from them, whosse creditors
sold it to the Bischop, and got but 8 pence for their pounds of what was
 Two words torn off.
In the returning home to the Linkton, we saw 2 miles from the Craig
Brackmont and Brackmont milne; then Forret, then Moonzie, as also
Kinneuchar: item, Dairsie, of old Leirmonts, now Morisones, with
Bischop Spotswoods chappell he can see build their. On the same water
stand Kemnock (theirs another in Fyffe called Cummock, who is Morton
to his name), ware Sheveses, the successors of Wm. Sheves, archbischop of
St. Androis, who outed Grahame, Kennedie's successor, and ingratiated
himselfe with the nobility because of his skill in Astrology; they are now
Mcgills; Rumgaye, also Migill; and Blebo, now Beaton. Saw Craigball, of old
Kinninmonts, now Hopes, as also Cires. Came at last to Kennoway, belonging
to the Laird of Balfour, and holden by him waird of the chancelor Rothes:
its 12 miles fra Scotscraig. Then came to Dysert moor, wheir we saw the
coal pits burning, which will ever burne so long as it hes any waste, but
will die when it comes to the maine coall for want of air. In Dysert toun,
hard by the church, which is a very old one, is a great cave which they
call the Hermitage, and I imagine the toune hes bein called Desertum from
it, yea, the most of the houses of the toun holds of it, and the parson of
Dysert is designed rector rectoriae de Dysert. Then came to Revenscraig
(alias Ruthvenscraig, of which name they seem to have bein of old), the
lord Sinclars dwelling, and so to the Links, which is 6 miles from
Kennoway, and so 18 from the Bischops house. Scotscraig was no old heritage
to the lord Ramsay, but was acquired lately from Dury of that ilk by him.
Balmayne had once Gorgie and Gorgiemilne, but Otterburne of Reidhall, by a
gift of non-entry, evicted it from them. See of the E. of Bothwell and
house of Balmaine largely alibi.
 So pronounced, now Kilconquhar.
 This seems obscure, though distinctly written. It may mean, 'ye
can see built there.'
 Now Kemback.
The Bells wrongs themselfes in wearing bells in their armes, for certainly
ther name is from France, in which language it signifies fair and
bueatifull, hence it was the surname of one of their Kings, vid. Philip le
Bell, yea, in the old Latine Bellum was that same with _pulchrum_; and war
was called _bellum, ironice, quasi minime bellum, id est, minime pulcrum_.
My Lord Twedale's predecessors have acquired all their fortune by
marriages, so that all the original writs he hes in hes charter kist are
only contracts of marriage. He was a cadet of Erroll, and the 1 heritrix he
married with was one Macfud, and by her he got his land in Twedall; then he
married one of the aires portioners of the Lord Frazer, and got some lands
in the north with hir; then got Yester and many other lands with the only
daughter of the Lord Giffart (tho my Lord Lauderdale sayes he can find by
no record wheir ever he was a Lord). He got also Beltane by marieng the
heritrix theirof, called Cunyghame. And now in this age he hes as much
expectation to raise that way as ever. By his Lady he hes a claime to the
estate of Baccleuch, failzeing of aires of this present Dutches hir body,
tho the King hes somewhat inverted the straight succession heir. By his
eldest sone he hes ane eye to my Lord Lauderdale's estate, providing he
play his game weill, and is in hopes of getting the estate of Erroll
entailled upon his 2'd sone.
In the beginning of August, having gone to eist Louthian, saw Langnidrie;
then a mile from it Reidhouse, the one was a Lord of the session and Tom of
the Cowgate's brother; then Ballincreiff, belonging to my Lord Elibank;
then Congilton, and on the brae above Ethalstanefoord, Byres, from which my
Lord Hadingtone's eldest sone takes his title.
My Lord Madertie's stile is truly Mater Dei, from some cloyster so named in
the tyme of poperie: he should be induced to take some other denomination,
this seeming to blasphemous like.
* * * * *
On the 17 of October 1672 having had occasion to go to Auldcambus with the
provest, we went the first night to Waughton. Saw by the way Preston,
Prestongrange, Seaton, St. Germains, Langnidrie, then Ballincreiff, then
Reidhouse, then Dreme, and above it Byres, then Congilton, and above it
Athelstanefoord and Westfortoun, and on the other hand Sydeserfe. The next
day we parted for the Merse: saw Furd, Tunyghame, Westbarnes, Lochend,
Broxmouth, Broxburne, Newtonlies, Eistbarnes, Spot, Fuirston, Bourhouses,
Innerweik toun, kirk and place, Scarteraw, Thorntoun loch, Dunglas,
Cockburnes path, then past the said path and came to Aulcambus path,
corruptly called the pies. The provost hes a barrony their 4 miles long,
and in the narrowest place at the leist a mile broad, which if it lay neir
Edenborrough, we was counting would afford neir 100,000 mks. of rent per
annum. He hes a great peice of Coldinghame moir in property, and he hes it
all in commonty. His neibhours be Colbrandspeth, Renton, Butterdean, and
the Laird of Lumsdean, now Douglas. The Lo. Renton dealt to have had the
gift of the wholle moir from the king, and said it was only 2 rig lenth of
land. I imagine the first possessors of that place ware Rentons to ther
name, then they ware Forrestor, then Craw, whom the Home cheated out of it
by marieng the Ladie. In the right of the Fosters he laid claime to the
foster-corne to be payed to him by all the vassals and fewars of the
abbacy, now the Lordship of Coldinghame, as being come in place of thesse
who had a gift frae the prior and convent of Coldinghame to be forrester to
all the woods and shaws growing within the lands holden of the said abbacy,
to preserve and hayne the same; and for his paynes was to have a threiv of
straw of each husband-land yeirly with some other dueties, and the Justice
Clerk thought to have gotten the fewars decerned for more then 100 years
that it was owing, but the Los. restricted him to 39 years preceiding his
summons, finding all the years above prescryved. And for the dueties due to
him on that accompt furth of the barrony of Auldcammas he got the property
of a roume lying in the barrony called Fosterland, and when Waughton cutted
his wood of Penmansheills, which is also a part of the barrony, Renton
alledged that the boughs and bark of the tries within the Lo.ship was his
by forsaid gift, and the heritor had nothing but the stock of the tries.
They agried the matter betwen them. Tho he be most exact in lifting his
fies, yet he does nothing that's incumbent to the office of forrester.
On Sunday we went to Coldinghame Kirk, 4 miles from the smith's house at
Haychester. The kirk hes bein a great fabrick. Its said to have bein built
by K. Edgar, _anno_ 1098. Their was their a great abbacy. We saw the
promontory so much taken notice of by the seamen called St. Abbes head
(Sta. Ebba); over forgt it layes Coldinghame Law, Home to his name.
Saw the milne about which my Lord Home (who is the Lo. of erection now) and
Renton are contending. Saw at 2 miles distance Haymouth, and above it
Gunsgrein, then Ayton, all standing on the water of Ei. Saw West Reston,
Home, Eist Reston, Craw, and Henchcheid, Craw; of which name their was a
nest in this place, but the Earle of Dumbar almost extinguished them, and
now his owne memory is extinct and gone: let men then beware of oppression.
Coldinghame stands pleasant, and verifies the byword that the kirkmen
choised ever the warmest nests. Mr. Andro Ballantyne, brother to the
sometyme Lo. Newhall, is heir minister. Auldcambus is in Cockburnspath
parish. It hes a ruinous chappell standing in it dedicat to Ste. Helene,
who was mother to Constantine the great, and found out the holy croce at
Golgotha. Thrie mile from Auldcambus stands Monynet, and 3 miles from it
againe stands Gammelisheills in Lammermuire. Blaikerston stands likewayes
their about, as also Thorniedykes, now Broun, of old French. After some
dayes stay at Auldcambus we came to Dumbar. Nixt day out of Dumbar we came
to Northbervick by Belhaven, Tinynghame, Auldham, Scougall, Tomtallon,
Cassilton. From Northberwick we went to Archerfield (so called because of
the excellent links their fit for shooting at Rovers), my Lo.
Advocat's dwelling. Saw by the way Dirleton, with its castle, ruined
by the English becaus it held out. Then from that came to Saltcoats,
Leidingtone, to their name; then to Lufnes, of old Biccarton; then
Waughtons, now Durhame; then to Abirlady toune and place, once Mr. Wm.
Scot's, now Sir Androw Fletcher's. Theirs a great bay heir. Then saw
Gosford, then Cockeny, the Pans, Wester Pans, wheir Jo. Jousie hes his
 For 'forgainst,' 'opposite.
 Now Eyemouth.
 Sir John Nisbet of Dirleton.
Naper is a french name and runs in it n'a pair, he hath not a peer. The
Giffards of Shirefhall, they say, ware of old Shirefs of Louthian, and from
that their house got its denomination. Tho some alledge their was in old
tymes a Lord Giffard, and that it ended with ane heritrix married in the
house of Yester: yet my Lord Duke of Lauderdale sayes he hes bein at very
much pains to find if it was so, and he could never find any thing to
* * * * *
The Wrichtshouses near Edenburgh, they say, was denominat from this, that
in King James the 2ds dayes the ground about all being a forrest (lochia
sylva is derived from lochs, _insidioe_, in the Greek, _quia insidiantibus
capta est sylva_. Wossius partit. orator, p. 328), and wheirin their
was many robbries and murders committed. K. Ja. gave order to cut it doune.
The Wrichts that ware appointed for this work had their huts and lodges
whither they resorted for their dyet and on other accompts put up in the
very individuall place wheir the house and place of the Wrightshouses is
now situat, and so gave that denomination to the ground theirafter.
 Vossius, Gerard. Johannes, Dutch philologist, 1577-1649, author
of _De Quatuor Artibus Popularibus_, etc.
CHANGES AND ALTERATIONS AND REMARKABLE
EMERGENTS OF AND IN THE SESSION 1668-1676.
 MS. H.
On the 5 of June 1668 was I admitted Advocat. At this tyme died my Lord
Carden, and Gosfurd succeided.
In the November theirafter died Mr. Robert Burnet, Advocat.
In May 1669 died Mr. Laurence Oliphant, Advocat.
In July 1669 died William Lylle, Advocat.
In August died William Douglas of Kirknes, who the session before had given
in his trialls in order to his admission to be a Advocat.
In September 1669 died Mr. Alexander Osuald, Advocat.
On the 15 day of September 1669 was I chosen conjunct assessor with Sir
George Lockart to the good toune. Its at large booked on the 13 of May
On the 9nd of October also 1669 ware we chosen for assessors to the wholle
borrows in their Convention.
On the last of October 1669 died Mr. Laurence Scot of Bevely, one of the
Clerks of Session, and that same night Alexander Monroe, Comisar of
Stirling, was provided theirto.
On the 25 of March 1670 died the Lord Kinglassie, to whosse place was
provyded the Laird of Haltoun.
In April 1670 died John Scot, Keiper of the Minut book, and his place was
continued with his sone Francis.
In May 1670 died John Kello, on of the under clerks, to whom succeided
(after Robert Hamilton had officiat as under clerk the Summer session that
followed, and Mr. Thomas Hay the following sessions till January 1673)
James Hamilton, wryter.
On the 5 of July 1670 Mr. Thomas Nicolsone, Advocat, died frenetick.
In _anno_ 1668 Sir James Keith, Laird of Caddome, having threatned Mr.
David Falconer, Advocat, ane ill turne, and being complained upon, and in
his vindication reflecting upon my Lord Halkerton, he was committed to the
tolbuith and fined.
That same year, Mr. David Thoires having miscaried in a supplication given
in by him to the Lords in behalfe of a client against Doctor Hay, bearing
they were minded to satisfy the Doctors unsatiable covetousnesse to the
oppression of the widow and the fatherles, he was sent to prison, fyned,
and craved them humbly pardon.
In _anno_ 1670, Mr. Alexander Spotswood, plaiding in the Oriminall Court
for Wedderburne, and Mr. Patrick Home, being his antagonist and growing
hot, called Alexander a knave, who replied, I can sooner prove you and your
father knaves, who theirupon was imprisoned; but at last, upon intercession
of freinds, was set at libertie. The Justice Clerk was verie
inexorable in the particular.
 Lord Renton.
In June 1670, Douglas of Kelheid, younger, affronted Hew Wallace, Writer to
the Signet, in his oune house; which the Faculty, apprehending themselfes
concerned in, at last caused Kelheid, in presence of them all, crave Hew
and all the Faculty pardon for his offence, and confesse they did him a
great courtesie in accepting that for satisfaction.
On the end of January 1671, Sir John Gilmour, by reason of his infirmity,
having dimitted his place of being President, but strongly having
recommended Gosfoord to be his successor, it was offered to Sir John
Nisbet, King's Advocat (whosse place if he had embraced it was thought Sir
Robert Sinclair would have got), who faintly refusing, thinking theirby to
have bein more woed, he was taken at his word, and our Jock of bread
Scotland would take none of their advices, but would take a way of his
oune, and so did make choise of my Lord Stair, who was looking litle for
it, and who truely came in betuixt tuo, and was so unacceptable to the
former President that its thought he would not have dimitted had he dreamed
the guise should have gone so; and the pitching on him was truely _in
odium tertii_ to keip of Sir Robert Sinclar, whosse journey to Scotland
under the pretence of coming to sie his new maried ladie suffered strange
constructions at Court, and Lauderdale conjectured it was only to give my
Lord Tueddale notice of some things that was then doing to his prejudice;
and its beleived he would not have bein the coy duck to the rest of the
Advocats for their obtempering to the Act of Regulations[60l] had he
forsein that they would have hudibrased him in the manner they did;
hence we said give us all assurance to be Kings Advocat and we shall take
it with the first; and the Lords, when he was plaiding before them in a
particular, entreated him to come within the bar and put on his hat, since
it was but to make him Advocat with 2 or 3 days antidate. He took also with
it, and did not deny it when he was posed on it.
 Jock of bread (broad) Scotland, Lauderdale.